GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH; 



KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDEN:' 

WITH THE ^ ,-, '-, ■ 

fst IXctfjotis far iljxir Cultilialiioii, 



roc-ETHER wm -' . ^ 

HINTS UPON LAiS^DSCAPE A^tDJ^LOWER rxARDEEII^G. 

COXTAINIXG 

MODES OF CULTURE, AND DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF 
THE CULINARY VEGETABLES ; FRUIT TREES AND FRUITS ; AND A 
SELECT LIST OF ORNAMENTAL TREES AND PLANTS, FOUND 
BY TRIAL ADAPTED TO THE STATES OF THE UNION 
SOUTH OF PENNSYLVANIA; WITH GARDEN- 
ING CALENDARS FOR THE SAME. 



BY WILLIAM N. WHITE, 

OF ATHENS, GA. 



" In the home around which we see a well-kept garden, internal order almost 
always prevails ; and when there is a flower-stand outside, there is almost always 
a book-shelf within."— Schouw's Earth, Plants, and JIan. 



I^EW YORK: 
M. SAXTON AND COMPANY, 

AGEICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS, 

No. 140 Fulton Street. 

ATHENS, GA.: WM. N. WHITE, 

18fi6. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year lS5o, by 

WILUAM N. ^ITHITE. 

Ill the Clerk "e Oliioe of the District Court of the United States, for the fi. ■.them 
District of Georgia. 






EDWARD O. JENKINS, 

PRINTER AND STEREOTYPER, 

26 Frankfort Sti:ee>, N. Y. 



p 



PREFACE 



1 HAVE thought that, upon a subject so accordant with my tastes 
as is Horticulture, I might prepare a work adapted to our climate 
and useful to the public. The repeated inquiries made of me, as a 
Bookseller, for a, practical treatise on the subject, and these in- 
quiries growing more frequent with the manifest growth of the 
gardening spirit among us, led to the undertaking. Yet, written, 
as it has been, in the intervals of trade and subjected to its constant 
interruptions — now advancing but a line at once, again a page or 
an article — suspended totally for nearly two years, then hastily 
finished, looked over, and printed under circumstances that ren- 
dered the author's revision of the proof impossible — many defects 
of style, and errers of the press, are manifest. These, if the work 
contain the information sought, practical men will readily excuse 
in a first edition. 

To claim much originality in a modern work on Gardening, 
would display in its author great ignorance or great presumption. 
If it did not contain much that is 'found in other horticultural 
works, it would be very defective. Gardening is as old as Adam, 
and what we know to-day of its principles and operations has bees 
accumulated, little by little — the result of thousands of experi- 
ments and centuries of observation and practice. Hence, from the 
gardening literature of our language, has been selected, for this 
workj those modes of culture which considerable experience and 



IV PREFACE. 

observation has proved adapted to our climate. The species and 
varieties of plants found here most desirable for use or ornament, 
have been selected and described. This mass of material has been 
modified and increased by pretty copious garden-notes of my own. 
Still, it has been my object to make a useful and reliable, rather 
than an original work. 

Where an author's language suited my purpose, it was at once 
incorporated into the text. If the expression is sometimes changed, 
it is generally to make it more concise. To save repeated acknow- 
ledgments and quotation-marks in the text, a list is appended of the 
authors Avhich occur to me from whom assistance has been derived. 
The names of those to whom I am most indebted have a star pre- 
fixed. 

It was first intended merely to modify an English work — G. W. 
Johnson's " Kitchen Gardening" — and adapt it to our own cli- 
mate. Hence, his arrangement of articles in the alphabetical order 
of their genera is adhered to. P-Iants similar in nature are thus 
grouped together, and some repetition is avoided. But that work 
not proving so available as expected, and botanical names being 
still in a state of change,* not many articles were prepared before 
I regretted not having followed the common method, which is cer- 
tainly more convenient for reference to all except botanists. But 
as the index renders it easy to find any plant by its common name, 
the arrangement of the articles was of too little importance to be 
changed at that period. 

The necessity of a Southern work on Gardening is felt by every 
Horticulturist in our midst. Our seasoas difler from those of the 
Northern States, in heat and dryness, as much as the latter do 
from those of England. Treatises perfectly adapted to their cli- 
mate we are obliged to follow very cautiously. English works 
require the exercise of a still greater degree of judgment in the 
reader, the climate of England being still more cool and humid. 
Again, our mild winters admit of garden-work nearly every day of 
the year. Alt the heavy operations of trenching, manuring, laying 
out, pruning, and planting trees, shrubs, and hardy ornamental 
plants, are at that season most conveniently performed. 

• Chervil, for instance, is now Chserophylum sativum. 



PREFACE. V 

In this particular aspect, our climate is much like that of the 
eouth of England. Hence, while the calendars of operations, in 
works prepared for the Northern States, seldom agree with our 
practice, those in English works are often found to coincide with it. 
But even where the time of performing certain operations is the 
same in both countries, the long, dry summers, and still milder win- 
ters, of this climate, often render necessary a peculiar mode of per- 
forming the same. 

We need, then, works upon Gardening specially adapted to our 
latitude and wants. But, with the exception of the valuable mat- 
ter scattered through our Agricultural and Horticultural periodi- 
cals, Holmes' *' Southern Farmer and Market Gardener," written 
some years since, and briefly treating of the kitchen garden depart- 
*ment merely, is the only work containing anything reliable on the 
subject. 

The chief original features, then, of this work, are, that it endea- 
vors to give more or less information upon the whole subject of 
Gardening ; and information, too, that is practically adapted to 
our climate, habits and requirements. In the fruit-garden depart- 
ment, especially, a good deal of new matter is to be found. Through- 
out the entire work, processes are frequently described, and methods 
of culture given, which are suited only to climates and seasons like 
our own. Those varieties of plants and trees are pointed out which 
experience has proved are least adapted to our orchards and gar- 
dens. Analyses of the most important vegetables and fruit-trees 
are supplied, both to gratify a rational curiosity and to assist those 
who wish to experiment in special manures — which should be very 
cautiously ventured upon in the present state of our knowledge. 
Unusual prominence is also given to the general subject of manures, 
as they are the foundation, not only of successful gardening, but of 
profitable husbandry. The hints on Landscape-gardening have 
been gathered, with great care, from the works of Downing, Lou- 
den, Smith and others, and modified to suit our climate. In the 
Flower-garden department, few varieties of plants are noticed that 
have not grown under my own eye, and none that I do not know 
are really fine. Besides the various works consulted, the experi- 
ence of horticultural friends has been freely communicated. Valu- 
able hints have been derived from Rev, Mr, Johnson and Mr. 



VI PREFACE. 

Thourmond, of Atlanta, Prof. J. P. Waddel, Dr. M. A. Ward and 
Dr. James Camak, of Athens, Rt. Rev. Bishop Elliott, of Savan- 
nah, Dr. J. 0. Jenkyus and Mr. Affleck, of Mississippi ; and espe- 
cially from J. Van Bureu, Esq.,* of Clarksville, Geo., whose suc- 
cessful efforts to make known and diffuse native southern varieties 
of the apple rendered him a public benefactor. It is hoped we 
shall yet see a work upon fruit-trees from his pen. 

If this treatise, with all its imperfections, shall in any degree in- 
crease the love of Gardening among us ; if it shall cause orchards 
to flourish, shade-trees to embower, and flowers to spring up around 
any Southern home, the author's purpose is accomplished. 

* By an oversight, my own descriptions of the Batchelor, Maverick's Sweet, 
Nickajack, Berry, Disharoon, Catooga, Comack's Sweet and Neverfail Apples, for 
which Mr. Van Buren furnished the specimens of fruit, are placed among the vari- 
eties described by him. 



CONTENTS. 



Introduction 



FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF GARDENS 
IN GENERAL. 





PAGE 




PAOH 


Aspect .... 


12 


Manures: Night Soil 


. 42 


Budding . . . . 


67 


Bone . 


44 


Bones .... 


44 


Special . 


46 


Cultivation with the Hoe . 


89 


Mulching . . . . 


85 


Cuttings .... 


63 


Number of Plants to an Acre 


. 92 


Cold Frames . . . . 


55 


Offsetts . . . . 


62 


Depth of Soil 


20 


Profits of Gardening 


. 51 


Destruction of Yerrain 


93 


Propagation of Plants 


55 


Form .... 


14 


" by Seed 


. 56 


Fencing . . . . 


15 


" by Division 


61 


Forwarding Early Crops 


51 


Pruning 


. 75 


Frost, Protection from 


91 


" General principles of 


75 


Grafting .... 


70 


Protection from Frost . 


. 91 


" Wax 


71 


Plowing, subsoil . 


23 


" Modes and Time of . 


T2 


Eotation of Crops 


. 47 


" Whip 


72 


Situation . 


10 


" Cleft . 


73 


Size .... 


. 13 


" Eoot 


74 


Soils 


18 


" Advantages of . 


75 


" Depth of 


. 20 


Hoeing 


. 89 


" Improvement of 


21 


Hedges .... 


15 


" Subsoilingof . 


. 28 


Hot-beds 


. 52 


" Trenching 


23 


Inarching .... 


74 


Sub-successions 


. 49 


Insects 


96 


Seeds 


50 


Implements 


104 


" So-wing and Preserving 


. 57 


Layers 


. 62 


" Duration of vitality of 


59 


Lajdng out Gardens 


14 


" Sowing and Germinating t 


)f 59 


Manures 


. 25 


Suckers 


. 61 


" Salt and Lime Mixture 


31 


Slips 


6G 


" Saline 


. S3 


Spading 


. 83 


" Vegetable 


35 


Training . 


81 


" Green 


. 39 


Transplanting 


. 82 


" Animal . 


89 


Watering 


. 88, 83 



THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 





PAGK 




Asparagus 


148 


Mustard . 


Artichoke . . . . 


215 


Nasturtium, or Indian Cresa 


Artichoke, Jerusalem 


227 


Onion Tribe, The 


Beet 


156 


Onion, The . 


Beet, Common 


156 


Onion, Potato 


Borecole— German Greens . 


1T3 


Onion, Tree or Button 


Brocoli . • . . 


177 


Orach 


Basil 


235 


Okra .... 


Bush-Beans, or Snaps . 


240 


Parsley . 


Beans, Pole or Kunning 


242 


Parsley, Hamburgh 


Burnet .... 


249 


Pea, Ground 


Bean, English Broad 


281 


Pepper 


Ciboule, or Welsh Onion 


129 


Potato, Sweet 


Chives, or Gives 


183 


Pumpkin 


Celery .... 


135 


Parsnip 


Celeriac, or Turnip-Kooted Celery 


142 


Pea, English 


Cress, American 


156 


Potato 


Cress, Winter 


156 


Kocombole 


Chard (Swiss), or White Beet 


161 


Eoquet . 


Cabbage Tribe, The 


162 


Rape .... 


Cabbage . . . . 


164 


Eape, Edible-rooted; or I 


Cabbage, Savoy • 


171 


Turnip . 


Cauliflower . . . . 


174 


Eampion . 


Cabbage, Turnip — Turnip-Eooted 




Eadish, Horse 


Cabbage . . . . 


178 


Radish . 


Cucumber 


202 


Rhubarb 


Ohufas, or Earth Almonds . 


220 


Shallot, or Eschallot 


Carrot .... 


221 


Sprouts, Brussels 


Chinese Yam 


224 


Scurvy-Grass 


Corn Salad, or Fellices . 


227 


Sea Kale 


Cress . . . . , 


235 


Squash 


Chervil .... 


258 


Sorrel . , 


Corn, Indian 


282 


Savory 


Endive .... 


187 


Scorzonera 


Egg-Plant, or Guinea Squash 


265 


Skirret . 


Tarragon 


148 


Spinach 


Garlic . . . . 


127 


Spinach, New Zealand . 


Hop . . . 


230 


Salsify, or Yegetable Oyster 


Leek 


129 


Turnip 


Lentil .... 


226 


Tanyah 


Lettuce . . . . 


231 


Tomato 


Mushroom 


116 


Thyme 


Marigold, Pot 


185 


Vegetable Marrow 


Melon .... 


207 


Watermelon . , . 


Marjorum .... 


287 


Watercress 



French 



MEDICINAL HERBS. 



Angelica . 


PAGE 

288 


Liquorice 


FAOB 

291 


Anise 


. 296 


Lavender 


. 293 


Borage 


289 


Peppermint 


293 


Balm 


. 295 


Pennyroyal . 


. 294 


Bene 


298 


Eosemary 


296 


Chamomile . 


. 288 


Eue .... 


. 297 


Carraway . 


290 


Southernwood 


289 


Coriander 


. 291 


Spearmint 


. 294 


Clary 


298 


Sage 


207 


Dill . 


. 286 


Thistle, Blessed 


. 290 


Elecampane 


292 


Thoroughwort, or Boneset 


291 


Fennel 


. 287 


Tansy 


. 299 


Hyssop 


292 


Wormwood 


289 


Horehound . 


. 295 







THE FRUIT GARDEN. 



Almond . 


303 Nectarine 


81T 


Apricot 


. 319 Orange, The . 


. 827 


Apple, The 


871 Olive 


845 


Blackberry . 


. 388 Peach 


. 804 


Chestnut, and other Nuts 


821 Plum 


847 


Cherry 


. 322 Pomegranate 


. 853 


Currant . 


884 Pear 


354 


Fig ... . 


. 382 Plum, Jujube 


. 401 


Gooseberry 


385 Quince 


880 


Grape- Vine, The 


. 389 Easpberry . 


. 886 


Grapea, Native . 


400 Strawberry 


886 


Mulberry . , 


. 344 





LIST OF BOOKS AXD AUTHORS 

FROM WHOM MATERIAL HAS BEEN DERIVED FOR THIS "WORK, 



Affleck, Thos., 
Allen, A, B., 
*Baeet, p., . 



BoiTSSrNGAFLT, J. 
BtTEGESS, H., 

Breck, J., 
Beidgeman, T., 
♦Beowne, D. Jay 

Bon Jabdiniee. 
♦BxnsT, R., . 



Oobbet, "W., . 

*COLE, S. W., . 

CoTTNTBT Gentleman, 
cxtlttvator, 

" sottthekn. 

Dana, S. L., 
*do"wnin6, a. j., . 



Downing, Chakles, 
♦Elliott, F. R^ 
Floeist, . 
Gaedenee's Cheonicle, 

GENE88EE FaEMEB, 

Gbiffith, R. E., 
Holmes, F. S., 
Haeeis, T. W., . 
HoAEB, Clement, 

*HOETICULTTJEIST, 
HOVEY, C, M., 
Johnston, J. F. W., . 
Johnson, C. "W., . 
* " G. W., 
Kemp, E., 
Keneick, "W., 
Keen, G. M., 
Lee, Prof. D,, 



Southern Rural Almanac 

American Agriculturist. 

Fruit Garden. 

Horticulturist. 

Rural Economy. 

Amateur Gardener's Calendar. 

Book of Flowers. 

Young Gardener's Assistant 

Field Book of Manures. 

Patent Office Report, 1854 

Family Kitchen Gardener. 

Rose Manual. 

American Flower Gardener's Director. 

American Gardener. 

American Fruit Book. 

L. Tucker & Son, Albany, N. Y. 

Augusta, Geo., D. Lee and D. Redmond, Editors. 
Muck Manual. 

Fruits and Fruit Trees of America. 
Cottage Residences. 
Landscape Gardening. 
Horticulturist. 

Articles in Horticulturist and Correspondence. 
American Fruit Grower's Guide. 
H. C. Hanson, Philadelphia. 
Prof. J. Lindsey, London, Eng. 
J. Vick, Rochester, N. Y. 
Medical Botany. 
Farmer and Market Gardener. 
On Insects injurious to Vegetation. 
On the Grape- Vine. 
J. J. Smith, Philadelphia. 
Magazine of Horticulture, Boston, Mass. 
Agricultural Chemistry. 
Treatise on Manures. 
Kitchen Garden. 
How to lay out a small Garden. 
New American Orchardist. 
Practical Landscape Gardener. 
Genesee Farmer, Southern Cultivator, and Patent 
Office Reports. 



vm 



LIST OF BOOKS AND AUTHORS. 



LiKDLKT, G., . 
" JOHK, 



LlEBIG, J., 

* " & KOPP, 

♦LOTTDKN, J. C, 



* " Mrs. J., 

*MaPE8, J. J., . 

Mkehan, Tnos., 
*MicnAux, r. A., 
Nash, J. A., . 
Neill, D., . 
Norton, J. P., 
Ntjttall, T., 

PaPvDEB, E. Gr., 

Pattl, W., . 



Parsons, S. B., . 
*Peaf.odt, C a., 
Rivers, Thomas, 



♦SOHENCK, P. A., 
Stockhaedt's, J. A., 
Smith, C. H. J., 
Soil of thb South, 
♦Southern Agriculturist, 
Thomas, J. J., 
Thompson, "W., . 
"Waring, G. E., . 
"Wardee, Dr. J. A., . 



Guide to the Orchard. 
Gardener's Chronicle. 
Theory of Horticulture. 
Vegetable Kingdom. 
Agricultural Chemistry. 
Progress of Chemistry. 
Encyclopaedia of Gardening. 

" Plants. 
Suburban Gardener &nd Yilla Companion. 
Magazine. 

Ladies' Companion to the Flower Garden. 
Working Farmer, Now York City. 
Hand-Book of Ornamental Trees. 
North American Sylva. 
Progressive Farmer. 
Fruit, Flower, and Kitchen Garden. 
Scientific Agriculture. 
North American Sylva continued. 
On the StraM'berry. 
Hand-Book of Yilla Gardening. 
Rose Garden and Supplement. 
On the Rose. 
On the Soil of the South. 
Rose Amateurs Guide. 
Miniature Fruit Garden, 
Kitchen Gardener's Directory. 
Chemical Field Lectures. 
Landscape Gardening. 

Columbus, Ga., J. M. Chambers and C. A. Peabody. 
Laurensville, S. Carolina, A. G. <fc "Wra. Summer. 
American Fruit Culturist. 
Gardener's Book of Annuals. 
Elements of Agriculture. 
Western Horticultural Review. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 

It has been found impossible to complete the entire treatise in time for the work 
of the present season. Hence, it is thought best not to delay the publication of 
what is already prepared, as some persons may desire to purchase the Kitchen and 
Fruit Garden only. Little new work can be laid out in the Flower Garden until 
autumn, by which time will be issued, separately, the remainder of the work, con- 
taining the hints on Landscape and Flower Gardening, with the Calendai-s, and 
perhaps brief notes on a few of tho most promising Fruits that come into bearing 
with us this summer, thus considerably Increasing the usefulness of the entire 
work, and enabling thofle who wish to procure either part by itself, 

MAEcn. 1«56. 



INTKODUCTION. 

Gardening was man's first occupation. It lias num- 
bered among its votaries the wisest and best of our race, 
and has been deemed in all ages a delightful employment. 
But to yield pleasure or profit it must be prosecuted un- 
derstandingly. He who desires in full the enjoyments 
and advantages of a garden, must be qualified to take 
charge of it himself; must thoroughly understand the 
principles and manipulations of horticulture ; must know 
the qualities and requirements of his soil, and what may 
be most satisfactorily produced from it in his peculiar 
climate ; in short, he should in all cases be capable of su- 
perintending and directing advisedly its operations, really 
knowing when they are well or ill done. 

It is difficult to acquire this knowledge by reading or 
simply looking on. It is easiest and most pleasantly gained 
with implement in hand and a note-book in the pocket. 
The readier way of understanding the directions of the 
looks, is to put them in practice. He who thus heartily 
enters into the performance of horticultural operations, 
w^ill be fully rewarded by our good old mother earth in 
health, profit, and pleasure In health, for not only does 
the garden yield a choice and wholesome variety of fruits 
and vegetables, most salutary for daily food, but the ex- 
1* 



10 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

ercise afforded in moving the fresh soil, and the interest 
excited by the diversified operations of the garden, are 
still more salutary. In profit — ^but of that hereafter. In 
pleasure — for what is more delightful than to watch the 
daily developments of that which our own hands have 
planted, cultivated, and sheltered — or to witness, as the 
skillful gardener will do, the constantly improving condi 
tion of his soil, or to partake of the daily succession of 
choice vegetables and luscious fruits brought to perfection 
by his skill and care, or to enjoy the more spiritual and 
refined pleasures of landscape and flower-gardening where 
the eye is charmed with the greenness and breadth of lawns 
grouped with all rare and magnificent trees, or with par- 
terres gay with brilliant colors and profuse with beautiful 
and perfect forms. But those who possess a taste for gar- 
dening need no display of inducements to attract them to 
their favorite haunts. 

They will not seek in these pages for arguments in 
favor of gardening, but for suggestions and instructions as 
to the best methods of performing its operations. 



^arteniiig f0r tlje Snut^. 



FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF 
GARI3ENS IN GENERAL. 

Situation. — With us, gardening in all its departments 
is generally deemed the peculiar province of the ladies, 
and we cannot regret that it has fallen into their hands. 
Had Mr. Downing lived at the South, he would never 
have asked "What is the reason American ladies do not 
love to work in their gardens ?" Hence the usual direc- 
tion that the gardens should be formed near the house, 
becomes with us doubly important. The situation of the 
flower-garden and lawn should be immediately adjacent 
to the dwelling, in order to yield the highest degree of 
pleasure. The most satisfactory arrangement is to form 
the lawn directly in front, and the flower-garden on the 
side, sufficiently near to be overlooked by the drawing- 
room windows, while the sides of the dwelling, in part, and 
its entire rear, including the kitchen and servants' yard, 
are sheltered and concealed by trees. A dwelling thus 
embayed in well-grown trees is always regarded with 
pleasure. As neither the fruit or kitchen garden, espe- 
cially the latter, can be considered ornamental, they should 
not, though near the dwelling, be placed obtrusively in 
view. Near thev should be, as if either is distant, time is 



12 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

lost m watching its progress; it is in danger of being ne- 
glected ; and even if this is not the case, its choicest pro- 
ducts may gratify the palate of any one besides its owner. 
A good arrangement is to place them in immediate con- 
nection with the pleasure-ground, proceeding from the 
shrubbery to the fruit department, and thence to the 
kitchen-garden. The latter should be near the stables, in 
order that it may be copiously replenished with manure 
without too great expenditure of labor. 

Much, however, depends upon the soil. The best at 
command, in the vicinity of the dwelling, should be chosen. 
Proximity to water is also highly important, especially if 
it can be readily employed for irrigation. Low situations 
are more endangered by late and early frosts, but their 
abundant moisture renders them desirable for summer 
crops. A diversity of soils and exposures in the same in- 
closure is desirable. 

Care should be taken that the productiveness of the garden 
be not diminished by the proximity of large trees, which 
are injurious by their drip to all plants beneath them, and 
by their shade and extended roots to those more remote. 
The small fibrous roots of trees extend far beyond their 
branches, and one is not safe from these devourers much 
short of the length of the stem which they nourish. If 
trees exist too valuable to be removed, dig a deep trench 
near them, and cut off all roots that extend into it. This 
will probably relieve the adjacent crops from their inju- 
rious effects. 

Aspect and Inclination. — A slight exposure to the 
south and east is generally recommended. All good 
gardeners take pride in having early crops, and this com- 
]3ensates in some measure for their short duration in such 
an exposure. A north-eastern aspect is to be avoided, as 



ASrECT. 13 

our worst storms are from that direction. A uorth-west- 
ern exposure, though cold and late, is less liable to injury 
from late and early frosts, as vegetation in such situations 
is sheltered somewhat from the rising sun, and does not 
suffer so much if it becomes slightly frozen. It is not the 
frost that injures plants so much as the direct heat of the 
sun falling upon the frozen leaves and blossoms. 

Cabbage, cauliflower, strawberries, spinach, lettuce, and 
other salads, are much more easily brought to perfection 
in a northern aspect. Many of these run up to seed im- 
mediately if exposed to the full sun. The soil, too, is 
usually richer, and will retain its fertility longer, other 
things being equal, in a northern exposure. It is a great 
advantage, if the garden slope at all, to have it slope in 
more than one direction, giving a choice of exposure, and 
generally also of soil, as it is thus adapted to both late 
and early crops. But when the drainage is good, a level 
is to be preferred, as by the aid of the fences any desired 
exposure can be obtained for particular plants. Indeed in 
this climate nothing is more to be regarded than the in- 
clination of the soil. Whatever be the situation or aspect, 
a garden must be as level as possible. Any considerable 
inclination in this latitude subjects the richest portion of 
the soil to the danger of being washed away by our 
violent storms. In the rich mellow soil of a garden culti- 
vated as it should be, if there be any perceptible slope, a 
single storm will cause a loss of manure and labor that 
will require considerable expense to repair. If the ground 
is not level at first, it will be economy to throw it at once 
into terraces of convenient breadth. The steeps of these 
can be clothed with blue grass or strawberry plants, to 
prevent them from washing. 

Size. — A garden should be proportioned to the size of 



14 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

the family, and tlieir partiality for its different products. 
A small garden witli a suitable rotation of crops, and well 
manured and cultivated, will yield more pleasure and 
profit than an ordinary one of three times its size. An 
active industrious hand can take care of an acre, well pro- 
vided with hot-beds, cold frames, &c., keeping it in perfect 
neatness and condition; or if the plough and cultivator be 
brought into requisition, as they should be in large gar- 
dens, four times that amount can be under his care. 

If but little room can be allowed near the house, cab- 
bages, carrots, turnips, potatoes, and the common crops 
can be grown in the field, if well enriched and cul- 
tivated solely with the plough. The fruit garden should 
be in a separate compartment, as the shade of the trees is 
very injurious, and the exhaustion of the soil by their 
roots still more so. Dwarf pears upon the quince stock 
are the least injurious, and may be admitted into the 
vegetable department. 

Form. — The form will often depend upon the situation 
of the garden or inclination of the ground. When a 
matter of choice, a square or parallelogram is most con- 
venient for laying out the walks and beds. A parallelo 
gram extending from east to west gives a long south wall 
for shading plants in summ^er, and a long sheltered border 
for forwarding early crops. In plantation gardening an 
oblong shape has the further advantage of giving longer 
rows for the plough. 

Laying out. — In laying out, a broad walk Avide enough 
to admit a cart for manuring the plants, should run through 
the centre from end to end, until you nearly reach the 
border. Here may be a turning-place around an arbor or 
tool-house. A border, eight to twelve feet wide, should 



FENCING. 15 

extend all around, next the boundary, and next this should 
be a walk, also entirely around, three or four feet wide. 
If cultivated with the plough, this division into the borders, 
and two large plats, will be sufficient, but the borders 
should then be, at least twelve feet wide, to give room 
enough for those vegetables that will not admit cultiva- 
tion with this implement. 

The other vegetables may be successfully cultivated in 
these two plats, in long rows. Where the spade and hoe 
are used, these oblong plats may be subdivided for con- 
venience into smaller plats, by walks three feet wide, ex- 
tending from the borders to the main walk, and a portion 
of these should be laid out each year by very narrow 
alleys into beds, four feet wide, for onions, beets, carrots, 
&c. The earth should be dug out of the main walks, four 
inches deep, and spread evenly on each side over the 
adjacent ground. The walks may be filled with gravel, 
so as to be dry and comfortable, or fresh tan, if accessible, 
will answer very well, and will keep out the weeds for 
two years, when it should be used as a dressing for the 
strawberry beds, and its place filled with a fresh supply. 
No more walks or alleys should be made than are required 
for convenience in gardening operations, and where it is 
not desirable to admit a cart, the main walk need not be 
over five or six feet wide. 

Fencing. — The objects of fencing are to procure shel- 
ter for delicate plants from cold winds, also shade for 
those that require it, and, above all, to keep out of the 
garden intruders of all kinds, that the owner may enjoy 
its fruits without molestation. A high close board fence, 
or a stone or brick wall, answers a tolerable purpose ; but 
the only thing to be relied on is a living hedge. The 
Osage Orange, Pyracanth, Cherokee, and single White 



16 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Macartney roses are all good for this purpose. Osage 
Orange plants may be raised from seed, or bought at the 
nurseries for live or six dollars per thousand. The Pyra- 
canth, or evergreen thorn, we have Mr. Affleck's authority 
for stating, will make a hedge as effectual as the Osage 
Orange, and, as it is an evergreen, is much the most desir- 
able. The blossoms in Spring are very showy, and it is 
covered in Winter with bright scarlet berries, and hence 
it is often called the burning bush. It grows freely from 
cuttings in sandy soil, but these cuttings should remain 
in the nursery-bed a year to become well rooted before 
use. Mr. Nelson gives the following directions for plant- 
ing and trimming a hedge, which apply equally well to 
Osage Orange and Pyracanth : 

"Planting. — First dig a trench where the hedge is 
intended to be grown, two spades deep, throwing the sur- 
face to one, and the subsoil to another side ; then throw 
the surface soil down on the bottom of the trench, and if 
it is very poor, add a little manure, or good surface earth, 
or even dry oak leaves. Autumn is by far the best time 
for transplanting, and can safely be done as soon as the 
leaves are dropped. Cut down the plants to within four 
inches above the roots before planting. Several authors 
recommend planting in double rows, but according to my 
experience in the management of hedges, (and I have 
had a good deal in my life), I decidedly prefer single 
rows. Assort the plants in two parcels, those of large 
and those of small size, and lay the smaller ones aside for 
the richest ground. Stretch the line firaily, and place the 
plants in as straight a line as possible, one foot apart ; fill 
up the trench with earth, leaving about two inches above 
ground ; press the earth not too firmly, but water plenti- 
fully, and after that, level the whole nicely." 



HEDGES. 17 

" Trimming. — It is perfectly useless to plant a hedge 
and leave it to be killed by weeds, or grow without trim- 
ming. A young hedge will require the same amount of 
labor as a row of Indian corn. The plants having been cut 
so much down, will, of course, start vigorously the ensuing 
Spring. A good hedge ought never to be trimmed in 
any other than in a conical shape. When trimmed in a 
conical shape, every shoot will enjoy the full benefit of air, 
light, and moisture, and by this simple and natural me- 
thod, a hedge can be shorn into a strong ivall of verdure, 
so green and close from bottom to top, that even a sjiarroio 
cannot, ivithout difficulty, pass through it. In order to 
make a hedge so thick and impervious as above men- 
tioned, it is necessary to go to work even in the first sum- 
mer, with a pair of hedge shears, pruning the young 
growth, when about three months old, at the same time 
laying down some of the most vigorous shoots to fill up 
some vacant places near the ground ; these shoots may be 
fastened to the ground with some hooked pegs ; they may 
be considered as layers, will soon send up a number of 
sprouts, and make the hedge impenetrable for pigs, and 
nearly for rabbits. The young twigs may be trimmed in 
a wedge shape, not more than one foot high, and at the 
base, six inches broad. The next season the hedge may 
be allowed to grow one foot higher, and three or four 
inches wider at the base. Thus the management must be 
continued until the hedge has attained the intended hight, 
allowing an addition of four inches broader at the bottom, 
for every foot more in hight. A hedge, regularly trim- 
med twice a year, will, with the exception of the first 
years, when it requires a little more care than afterward, 
continue impenetrable for fifty or even one hundred 
years." 

The Cherokee rose, by planting the cuttings by the 



18 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

side of a plank or wire fence, two feet apart, will grow up 
and cover it in a short time, and effectually repel man and 
beast; but it requires constant shortening in, or it is apt 
to die out at the bottom, and become unsightly, and is in 
all respects much inferior to the single white Macartney. 

This is also an evergreen, and very easily grown from 
cuttings. It is very thorny, and of beautiful foliage. It 
never dies out at the bottom, whether pruned or not, and 
is very hardy, and of luxuriant growth. The most satis- 
factory fence can be made with this, by setting good chest- 
nut or cedar posts, eight feet apart, with their small ends 
charred, and planted about two and a half or three feet in 
the ground. Upon this, form the usual paling fence, or 
nail a good wide bottom board, and finish the fence with 
stout wire, strained through holes in the posts. The wire 
fence may be four feet high. The roses should be rooted 
cuttings, and may be planted at first, even eight feet apart, 
and by layering and training the bottom shoots, if the 
ground is kept in good order, in three years it will repel 
every intruder. . It is better where plants are abundant, 
to set them out four feet apart. This hedge requires less 
pruning than any other to keep it impenetrable. The 
holly would also make an efficient and beautiful hedge, 
were it not so difficult to transplant. My own hedge of 
Macartney rose, where three years old, trained on a com- 
mon fence of rails and paling, forms a barrier perfectly 
secure, and very ornamental. 

Soil. — In our fine climate, the character of the soil is 
of much more importance than situation or aspect. The 
mechanical texture is especially to be regarded, as on this 
depends the proper retention of manure and moisture. 
There are two grand divisions of soils, heavy and light, 
which pass into each other by imperceptible gradations. 



SOILS. 19 

Heavy soils are those in which clay predominates. 
They are difficult to work, and in dry weather often bake 
like a brick, and are not permeable to dews or light rains, 
but after heavy rains, become so saturated that they are 
a long time unfit to work, and the plants often die from 
excess of moisture. The crops, too, are full ten days later 
in coming to perfection than in a good sandy loam. Light 
soils include those in which sands or gravel are the chief 
ingredients. The water that falls upon these soils passes 
instantly through them, so that the crops suffer quickly 
from drought. In these, vegetation is earlier, but they do 
not readily combine with manures, the soluble parts of 
which are leached through into the subsoil, or are washed 
out by the rains, so that if manure be constantly applied, 
they will yield but a moderate crop. Gravels are, in this 
respect, from the coarseness of the particles, generally 
worse than sands. Sandy soils are better adapted to tap 
rooted plants and bulbs, and for striking cuttings of all 
kinds, while clays are better fitted for plants with fibrous 
roots. 

In a garden designed for the cultivation of a variety of 
plants, both a light sand and stiff clay are desirable. But 
the best soil for general purposes, is a loam of medium 
texture, arising from a suitable admixture of the two, as 
they reciprocally correct the defects of each other, and 
with the addition of organic matter, form a soil suited to 
the cultivation of nearly all garden productions. Any soil 
with judicious culture, draining, and manures, can be con- 
verted into such a loam. 

If either of the above soils contain in its composition 
a large quantity of lime, it is called a calcareous soil, 
and is admirably fitted for the culture of fruit trees and 
wheat. 

An alluvial soil is that formed by the overflow of streams, 



20 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

or the deposition of various matters washed down from the 
hills, and has generally a large proportion of vegetable 
matter. It is exceedingly well suited for the kitchen 
garden, requiring little manuring, and not suffering from 
drought, but is not so well suited for fruit trees, with the 
exception of the apple. 

A peaty soil consists generally of vegetable mould, in a 
state of very slow decomposition, and possesses generally 
too much acidity for profitable cultivation, but when dried 
and combined with the lime and salt mixture described 
hereafter, and composted with auim.al matter, is a most 
valuable addition to all soils. 

The depth of a soil is quite as important as its texture. 
If not naturally deep, it must be made so by trenching. 
Deep soils retain a constant supply of moisture in dry 
weather, so that the plants do not suffer; and they do not 
become too wet in rainy seasons, as the earth drinks in 
and retains the rain below the surface ; beside, they are 
not so liable to wash away. If equally rich, they furnish 
plants with a more abundant pasturage and supply of food 
than shallow soils. Especially for all tap-rooted plants, a 
deep soil is indispensable. In the preparation of your 
garden, see that the ground is dry, deep, and rich. Good 
vegetables will not grow in a Avet soil. A shallow soil 
will not furnish them with a regular supply of moisture, 
and the crops growing upon a poor soil never pay for the 
labor bestowed upon it. 

A good garden soil must be not only of the proper depth 
arid texture, but, that vegetation may be healthy, must 
contain not only alumina and silex, or, in other words, 
clay and sand, in proper proportions, but also the other 
inorganic or earthy matters found in plants. These are 
carbonate and sulphate of lime, potash, soda, magnesia, 
sulphur, phosphorus, oxide of iron, manganese, and chlo- 



IMPROVEMENT OF SOIL. 21 

rine, all wliich, except alumina, exist in plants, and some- 
times form ten per cent, of their weight. 

If any of these constituents are wanting, the soil is 
defective, but it will not be fertile if all of them are pre- 
sent, unless there is organic matter in the soil to afford an 
abundant supply of ammonia and carbonic acid to the 
growing crop. 

Improvement of the Soil. — A soil may be improved 
in texture by the addition of any necessary constituents 
for the growth of plants which may be wanting. 

The texture of a clayey soil can be rendered more per- 
vious by thorough draining, deep trenching, and by the 
application of sand, ashes, lime, and unfermented manure. 
So much sand is required to produce any perceptible ef- 
fect in improving a heavy clay, that it is the most expen- 
sive mode of improvement. Ashes and lime both have 
the property of rendering heavy soils lighter and light 
soils more tenacious, and both more productive, especially 
for potatoes, turnips, beets, and peas, which delight in cal- 
careous soils. In cold climates, ploughing clay lands 
deeply in the fall, and exposing them to the action of the 
Winter's frost, is very beneficial, but in sections where 
there is little frost and abundant and heavy rains, it is 
worse than useless. Turning under coarse vegetable or 
carbonaceous matter, as straw, leaves, pine brush, corn- 
stalks, a crop of cow peas, or any other green crop, bog or 
leaf mould, decomposed peat, and even tanbark itself, so 
deeply beneath the surface as not to interfere with culti- 
vation, will by the slow decomposition of these materials 
much increase the fertility of a clay soil by improving its 
texture. 

The frequent working of the soil with the hoe and 
spade, admitting the ammonia and fertilizing gases of the 



22 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

atmosphere is itself very beneficial to clay soils, if done 
when the earth is dry. A clay soil is exceedingly injured 
if worked wet. A clay soil is so difficult to work, and so 
liable to bake into a hard crust after every rain, that it 
will well repay where materials for the purpose are at all 
convenient to lay out a good deal of time and labor in 
improving its mechanical texture. 

The texture of a sandy soil is much more easily im- 
proved than a clay, as the per centage of clay required to 
convert any sand into a loam is not very large and can 
easily be added. Fortunately too in sandy soils, clay is 
generally near at hand, often lying but a few inches be- 
neath the surface. A few loads of stiff clay, scattered 
thinly over the surface in Autumn, are worth more ap- 
plied to such a soil than any manure, for the clay will 
render manures permanent in their effect, which else 
would leach through without benefit to the crops; the 
effect of the clay itself is lasting. Lime, as before ob- 
served, stiffens the texture of a sandy soil, and gympsum 
has the same effect. Ashes are also an excellent and pro- 
fitable dressing to such a soil, leached or unleached, but 
the best of all applications is a good clay marl. Peat, 
vegetable manure, and carbonaceous matters of all kinds, 
as refuse charcoal, are good applications to sandy soils, as 
they enable them better to retain the fertilizing properties 
of the manure applied, if they do not much affect the 
texture of the soil. Sandy soils very often rest upon a 
clay bottom, so that the thorough trenching a garden 
should receive, will often greatly improve its texture. 
Working such a soil while wet, and the continual use of 
the roller will also render it more tenacious. But clay is 
the great improver, and it is astonishing how small a 
quantity of fine clay will cement a loose sand into a good 
loam. 



IMPROVEMENT OF SOILS. 23 

To conclude, in regard to the texture of soils, clioose 
or make for your garden a loam of medium texture a lit- 
tle inclined to sand, and the finer its particles the better. 
Clays and sands both become objectionable, as they de- 
part from this friable loamy texture, and the first step in 
their improvement is to bring them to this condition. A 
medium consistency best agrees with vegetation. 

The depth of soil in the garden is as likely to need im- 
provement as its texture. A deep soil is necessary that 
the roots may penetrate it freely in search of food, and 
be able to endure our summer droughts. The roots of a 
strawberry have been traced five feet down in a deep rich 
soil. The difference in freshness and growth of plants 
raised upon trenched soils, and those growing upon soils 
prepared in the common manner is remarkable. In lawns, 
the color of the grass will indicate very exactly the 
greater or less depth of the soil. The depth of soils may 
be increased by subsoil ploughing, or trenching. 

Subsoil ploughing is much cheaper and answers a very 
good purpose when the spot to be prepared is large. A 
common turning plough goes first, and ploughs as deep a 
furrow as practicable. It is followed by the subsoil plough 
in the same furrow, which loosens the soil without turning- 
it up to the depth of eighteen or twenty inches, unless it 
is a stiff clay or gravel. 

Trenoking is the mode of improving the depth of the 
soil in smaller gardens, and is performed in this manner : 
At one end of the plot to be trenched, you dig with the 
spade a trench three feet wide, and two feet deep ; you 
throw the earth out on the side away from the plot to be 
trenched. Shovel the bottom clean, and make the sides 
perpendicular, leaving a clear open trench the width of 
the plot. Open another trench the same width, and put 
the surface spadeful of that into the bottom of the former 



24 GARDENING FOK THE SOUTH. 

trench, and the next spadeful upon that, until opened to 
the same depth as the^r^^ one. When the plot is entirely 
trenched in this way, the last trench will remain open, 
which must he filled with the earth thrown out from the 
first one, which finishes the work. If the subsoil is poor 
and gravelly, it is better to take off the top spadeful, and 
loosen up the bottom to the required depth, with a pick, 
without bringing it to the surface. If the soil requires it, 
as it generally will, layers of manure may be added to 
those of earth, alternately. If the soil is too sandy, clay 
and other amendments must be added ; while if too heavy, 
woods-earth, leaves, muck, straw, tan-bark, or any other 
vegetable refuse can be alternated, putting the coarsest 
materials at the bottom. Tan-bark, particularly, should 
be buried at least six inches below the surface, unless the 
ground is to be cropped with strawberries or Irish potatoes, 
to which it is advantageous. 

Trenching is an expensive operation, costing some thirty 
or forty dollars per acre, but " nothing," says Mr. Barry, 
" is so expensive and troublesome, as an ill-prepared soil." 
This process is found to be of great advantage in England, 
where there is no lack of moisture, and still more so by the 
market gardeners of the Northern States, while in our own 
dry, warm climate, it is, as I know by trial, absolutely indis- 
pensable. Ground thus prepared is not so liable to wash 
away, as it will readily soak up the heaviest rain, if properly 
terraced. There is no point of greater importance than this. 
Poor ground deeply moved, is better than rich with shallow 
tillage, and when the ground has been prepared once in this 
manner, it will feel the benefit forever after. Increasing 
the depth of the soil in this mode, is to all intents and pur- 
poses increasing the size of your garden ; for one-fourth 
of an acre thus prepared, will yield in a dry season, as 
much as an acre wiU, with shallow tillage ; and the growth 



MA NUKES. 25 

of tlie plants in a good season, will be fully doubled. 
Trees especially feel the benefit of this preparation, and 
all fruit gardens should be thus prepared. No matter how 
deep you may work the soil for trees or plants, their fibres 
will penetrate it, and feel the good effect. 

Trenching should be performed in the fall — the coarse 
manure dug in at that time. At the top it should be well 
manured with well rotted dung, charcoal dust, ashes, or 
other good manure, dug in shallowly, taking care to level 
the ground while trenching, so as to prevent washing. 
Another good coat of compost should be added just before 
planting in the spring. 

Manures. — Soils are also improved by supplying any 
necessary constituents of plants in which they are partly 
or wholly deficient ; in other words, by the application of 
manures. "Anything which being added to the soil directly 
or indirectly, promotes the growth of plants, is a manure. 
They are of two classes. Organic and inorganic. The 
first embracing animal and vegetable, and the second miii- 
eral manure. Manures directly assist vegetable growth 
either by entering into the composition of plants, by ab- 
sorbing and retaining moisture from the atmosphere, or by 
absorbing from it nutritive gases. 

Manures indirectly assist the growth of plants either by 
destroying vermin or weeds by decomposing in the soil, 
and rendering available any stubborn organic remains, by 
protecting plants from sudden changes of temperature, or 
by improving the texture of the soil. 

All the above properties probably never are combined 
in any one manure, each being characterized by superiority 
in some one of the above qualities. 

The manures most generally applicable, are those com- 
posed of substances which directly enter into and are essen- 
9. 



26 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Hal to the growth of plants. What are these substances ? 
If you burn dried vegetables, a few ashes only remain ; 
less than one-tenth of their substance. This is all the plant 
got necessarily from the soil. Over ninety per cent, has 
escaped into the air, from which the plant derived it imme- 
diately or remotely. The composition of their ashes, va- 
ries in different species of plants, and slightly in the same 
species, when grown in different soils ; but they are always 
a valuable manure for that species, and when slowly dis- 
solved in the soil, furnish the roots with just the salts re- 
quired to nourish the growing plant. 

But over nine pounds in every ten, have disappeared 
under the action of fire. The substances expelled are car- 
bon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen; all essential to 
growth, and which must be furnished to the plant, or it 
will perish. Carbon, nearly pure, occurs in charcoal in a 
solid form, composing all of this substance but the ash. 
Carbon uniting with the oxygen of the air, forms the car- 
bonic acid gas, so destructive to animal life when charcoal 
is burned in a close room. The carbon of plants is derived 
partly by the absorbtion of carbonic acid gas from the air by 
their leaves ; but the roots, also, extract a portion of the 
same gas from the soil. We can increase the supply of this 
by vegetable manure, such as decayed leaves and other car- 
bonaceous matters, which, slowly decomposing, supply the 
roots with abundant food. The others occur only as gases 
or in combination with other substances. Oxygen forms 
nearly half the substance of the globe. It unites with hy- 
drogen, forming eight-ninths of the water we drink; and 
with nitrogen forming one-fifth of the air we breathe. With 
carbon it forms the carbonic acid described above. The oxy- 
gen of plants is derived from all of the above sources, being 
placed abundantly within the reach of every living thing. 

Hydrogen, in combination with oxygen, forms one-ninth 



MANURES. 27 

of the weight of water ; with carbon, it composes carbu- 
retted hydrogen, and Avith nitrogen, ammonia. The main 
supply of hydrogen is derived from water, a portion, how- 
ever, is obtained from the ammoniacal and other gases 
which pass from decomposing organic substances, and 
from the absorption of soluble organic matters in the soil. 

Of all the substances that minister directly to the growth 
of plants, by entering into their composition, nitrogen is 
perhaps the most necessary to supply. Though it forms 
four-£ftlis of the atmosphere, yet in this state plants can- 
not appropriate it. It unites with hydrogen forming am- 
monia, and with oxygen forming nitric and nitrous acids, 
from which compounds plants derive the small proportions 
they appropriate. Though the proportion of nitrogen 
existing in plants is small, yet it is not the less essential; 
but in fact, is that which is most needful to place within 
their reach. Ammonia is the substance from which plants 
derive most of their nitrogen. Ammonia or hartshorn is 
the gas given out by the common smelling salts. It is 
that which gives to animal manures their peculiar value. 

This gas enters immediately into the circulation of 
plants. We all know hoAV luxuriantly plants grow in 
putrid animal manure. 

This is owing to the ammonia given off by the manure, 
and appropriated directly by the plants, supplying them 
with both its constituents nitrogen and hydrogen. Indeed 
the value of manure is measured by the amount of am- 
monia it contains, not because ammonia is more essential 
than some of the other constituents of plants, but because 
more difficult to obtain in sufficient quantity. Manures 
that are rich in nitrogen, readily pass into a state of fer- 
mentation, and the abundant ammonia given off will often 
burn the plants with which it comes in contact ; hence 
they are called hot manures, as guano, horse and pig 



28 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

manure. These are most valuable for clays, which retain 
the fertilizing gases and store them up for use. 

Manures deficient in nitrogen, like those of all rumina- 
ting animals and all kinds of vegetable manures are called 
cold, and are best fitted for sandy soils, to which they 
give tenacity and the power of retaining moisture and 
ammonia. 

The decayed parts rendered soluble of any plant as 
well as its ashes are among the best manures for plants of 
its own species. Vineyards have been kept fertile by 
digging into the soil the fresh prunings of the vines, and 
indeed, increase in richness from the slight manuring their 
own leaves afford. So forests are enriched by falling 
leaves. 

After the oxygen, carbon, hydrogen, and nitrogen, are 
driven off by combustion, the small per centage of ashes 
remaining is made up of the following substances, viz. 
chlorine, sulphur, phosphorous, silica or sand, potash, soda 
lime, magnesia, and oxide of iron, all which in greater or 
less proportions enter into the composition of our garden 
crops, and must be supplied if wanting in the soil. Of 
these, less general, or as they are called sjjecial manures^ 
lime and sulphur are most cheaply supplied by sulphate 
of lime or gypsum, that being composed of sulphur, oxy- 
gen and lime. It is a component of turnips, peas, and 
beans, and if not already in the soil is a useful application 
to these crops. 

Phosphorous and lime can be supplied by crushed 
bones, a most valuable manure, composed of phosphate 
of lime and from thirty-four to fifty per cent, of gelatine, 
which latter substance rapidly putrifies and becomes 
available in supplying ammonia. The phosphate of lime 
is found in wheat, peas, beans, cucumbers, potatoes, garlic, 
&c., &c. Wood ashes afford the cheapest mode of sup- 



MANURES. 29 

plying potash. Clilorine and soda are found in many- 
plants, and are best supplied from refuse common salt, 
wliicli not only enters into the composition of plants, but 
is otherwise beneficial as shown hereafter. Phosphate of 
lime and potash are the additions most frequently needed 
by soils. 

Let us now examine the constituents of common stable 
manure, and note its value as a direct food for plants. It 
contains. 



Carbon, 
Hydrogen, 
Oxygen, 
Nitrogen. 
Carbonate of lime, 



Found in all plants. 



T ^ n 1 In most, 

do. or soda. ) 

Muriate of potash, in cucumbers, garlic, &c. 

Chlorine of sodium, > j^^ ^^^^ j^^j^_ 

Sulphate of soda, ) 

do. of potash, in cucumbers, garlic, &c. 

Magnesia in grains of all kinds. 

-r,! 1 . ni- i Potatoes, vines, onions, 

Phosphate ot hme, < . 

( peas, beans, gram. 

Oxide of Iron, \ 

Alumina, > In most plants. 

Silica. ) 

Thus, the value of stable manure is readily seen, every 
part of it has been formed of vegetable products, and is 
ready when rendered soluble to enter into and minister 
again to their growth. So of every other manure com- 
posed of animal and vegetable remains, bones included. 
It is not enough, however, that a substance contain the 
essential components of the plant to which it is to be 
applied. It must be in such a state, that the plants may 



30 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

appropriate tliem, lience, animal matters wliich are easily 
rendered soluble, have a much greater efifect when first 
applied, than vegetable manures, but the latter are more 
permanent as their constituents gradually become soluble. 
It is by putrefaction that all animal and vegetable remains 
are rendered available to plants, but if they are allowed to 
putrefy without care, the loss is immense — the soluble parts 
are washed away, the gases pass off into the air, and at 
least 50 per cent, of the manure is dissipated. 

Some manures ameliorate the soil by absorbing and re- 
taining moisture from the atmosphere. This property is 
as beneficial to a clay as to a sandy soil during drought, 
as at such times clays are often baked so as to be imper- 
vious to the dew, and suffer nearly or quite as much as 
more sandy soils. The best absorbents of moisture are 
stable manure, thoroughly decomposed tanbark, and the 
manure of the cow and pig, in the order named. After 
these come sheep and fowl manure, salt, soot, and even 
burnt clay is not without its virtue. All these absorbents 
are much more effectual when finely divided, and the soil 
itself is a good absorbent in proportion to its richness, and 
the friability produced by frequent culture. In the power 
of retaining moisture absorded, pig manure stands pre- 
eminent, next that of the horse, then common salt and 
soot. 

Some manures are beneficial in absorbing not only mois- 
ture, but nutritious gases from the atmosphere which they 
yield to the roots in a concentrated form. All animal and 
vegetable manures have the power of attracting oxygen 
from the air during decomposition. 

Charcoal and all carbonaceous matters have the power 
of absorbing carbonic acid gas in large quantities, supply- 
ing constantly to the roots of plants an atmosphere of 
carbonic acid, which is renewed as quickly as it is ab- 



MANURES. 81 

stracted. Tlie same substances are especially valuable for 
their power of absorbing ammonia. Charcoal will absorb 
ninety times its volume of ammoniacal gas which can be 
separated by simply moistening it with water. 

Decayed wood absorbs seventy times its volume, while 
leaf mould, perfectly rotted tanbark, and in fact all 
vegetable manures are exceedingly valuable in this re- 
spect. 

Manures indirectly assist the growth of plants by de- 
stroying weeds and predatory vermin. This is not a 
property of animal and vegetable manures, (except that 
guano repels most insects,) they foster these enemies of 
the crop, but salt, lime and ashes applied to the surface of 
the soil are very destructive to nearly all insects, while 
the roots of weeds and grasses if composted with the salt 
and lime mixture are completely destroyed, and converted 
into an excellent manure. 

Anotker indirect action of manure in assisting the growth 
of plants, is in decomposing and rendering available any 
stubborn organic substances in the soil. Stable manure 
and all decomposing animal and vegetable substances 
have a tendency to promote the decay of any organic re- 
mains in the soil. All putrescent substances hasten the 
process of putrefaction in other organic bodies with which 
they come in contact. Even peat and tanbark mingled 
Avith stable dung, and kept moist are converted into good 
manure ; common salt in small proportions has a similar 
septic property, and the efficacy of lime in this respect is 
well known. 

But the most valuable agent in decomposing organic 
substances is the salt and lime mixture made as follows : 

Take three bushels of unslacked lime, dissolve a bushel 
of salt in as little water as possible, and slake the lime 
therewith— if the lime will not take up all the brine at 



32 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

once,wliicli it will, if good and fresli burned, turn it over 
and let it lie a day and add a little more of tlie brine, 
daily turning and adding until all is taken up. 

This salt and lime mixture is exceedingly valuable. It 
destroys tlie odor of putrefying animal matters, while it 
retains the ammonia. Of itself it supplies plants with 
chlorine, lime and soda, all of which are requisite. Any 
vegetable refuse whatever, leaf mould, turf, straw, chips, 
and even tanbark, if kept moist and sprinkled throughout 
with this mixture, become thoroughly decomposed in a 
very short time, and if used for the bottom of pig-pens, 
stables and yards where they can absorb the urine, they 
become the very best of manures. 

Another indirect agency of manures, is in protecting 
plants from sudden changes of temperature. There is no 
doubt, that rich soils and those abounding in animal and 
vegetable remains are less liable to change their tempera- 
ture with the incumbent atmosphere, than those of poorer 
constituents, for the decomposition of manures gives warmth 
to the soil. Corn can be grown in high latitudes upon 
rich land only, upon a poor soil it would perish. Some 
manures as salt, it is asserted, protect plants from suffering 
by sudden reduction of temperature by entering into their 
systems — stimulating and rendering them more vigorous 
impregnating their sap and rendering it less likely to be 
congealed. This is doubtful. 

The last indirect effect of manures upon plants is by 
improving the texture of the soils in which they grow. 
Decomposing in the ground they leave interstices as they 
become less in bulk, making it more light and porous. 
The effect of manure in rendering a stiff soil light and 
porous is very well known. It is equally true that vege- 
table manures give to sandy soils greater tenacity, enabling 
them better to retain moisture and ammonia. 



INORGANIC MANURES. 33 

Having considered tlie modes in wliicli manures act 
upon tlie growth of plants, a still more important inquiry- 
remains, viz. : What manures can we obtain and render 
available. The scarcity of manures at the South is a great 
difficulty in gardening. But a small amount of live stock 
is kept by our planters in proportion to the number of 
acres in cultivation. What is thus obtainable is not well 
husbanded, and is needed on the plantation for corn and 
cotton. Still, on most country places, enough is wasted to 
supply not only the garden, but to leave a surplus for the 
plantation. In town, wherever a horse and cow can be kept, 
enough can be made for a large garden, while even a pig if 
kept at work in his pen with the aid of soap-suds from the 
house, will convert some fifteen loads of weeds, yard sweep- 
ings, chips, tanbark, and leaves, into a valuable manure. 

Of Saline Manures, the most available are ashes leached 
and unleached, which should be most carefully saved, as 
potash is one of the elements most speedily exhausted 
from the soil. They contain besides potash, phosphoric 
and sulphuric acids, manganese, chlorine, soda, magnesia, 
carbonate of lime, and soluble silica. They may be 
applied directly to any crops and especially to fruit trees. 
Composted with swamp, earth, and other vegetable mat- 
ter, they correct its acidity, and form an excellent manure 
for all crops, and in connection with lime form the best 
compost for orchard purposes. 

Lime may be applied in this compost for trees, but for 
all garden crops, the lime and salt mixture affords a suffi- 
ciency for the growing crops. Shell lime is the best to 
employ, as it contains some phospate of lime which is still 
more valuable. If lime is used alone, mix it intimately 
with the surface soil, but do not plough or spade it in. Its 
elfect in improving the texture of soils, we have already 
considered. 

2* 



84 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

All tlie constituents of the lime and salt mixture are 
available to plants, the caustic lime decomposes the salt 
forming chloride of calcium, while the soda set free, draws 
carbonic acid from the atmosphere and becomes a carbonate. 
Lime decomposes all organic matters, but it drives off the 
ammonia, and hence, should not be used in connection 
with animal manure. The mixture is still better than 
lime for decomposing organic matters, and besides does not 
drive off the ammonia therein. 

Lime rubbish from old brick walls, and the plastering 
of old houses, absorb nitrogen from the air, forming nitrate 
of lime. This salt furnishes nitrogen abundantly to plants. 
This rubbish also contains a portion of hair and silicate of 
lime, and is a very powerful manure. One ton is suffi- 
cient for an acre. 

Common salt on lands so distant from the sea, that the 
spray does not reach them, is a very beneficial manure. 
The refuse salt which has been used for bacon is the most 
valuable, as it contains in addition the blood and juices of 
the meat which greatly increase its value. It may be di- 
rectly applied to asparagus without injury, and at the rate 
of six or eight bushels per acre applied in autumn, it benefits 
all garden crops, keeping the soil moist and free from in- 
sects and worms. Gypsum enters into the composition of 
many crops, but a very small quantity will suffice. One 
bushel per acre yearly is all that is needed. In absorbing 
ammonia from the manure heap, charcoal dust and leaf 
mould are much cheaper. 

Marl where it can be obtained may be applied with ad- 
vantage especially to sandy soils. It is generally benefi- 
cial in proportion to the quantity of lime it contains. 

Soot is rich in ammonia ; very little of this can be pro- 
cured, but it should be carefully preserved and applied in 
small quantities to cabbage and other plants infested with 



VEGETABLE MANURES. 35 

insects. It drives these off and its ammonia also promotes 
the growth of the plants. 

Among the vegetable matters which may add to the 
stock of manures for the garden, the very best is cotton 
seed where it can be obtained. If the husk were removed 
and the remainder reduced to an equally dried state, it 
would scarcely be inferior in strength to guano itself. It 
may be applied with advantage to any crop. 

Charcoal renders the soil light and friable, gives it a 
dark color and additional warmth for early crops. The 
bed whereon charcoal has been burnt is always marked 
by a more vigorous growth of plants when it becomes 
sufficiently mixed wuth earth. It contains also small 
quantities of silicate of potash and other fertilizing salts. 

It absorbs both carbonic acid and ammonia from the 
air, and yields them to the roots of plants. It is most 
marked in its effects on plants which require abundant 
nitrogen. As it is indestructible, its beneficial effects last 
as long as it remains in the soil, supplying the spongioles 
or rootlets of plants with an atmosphere of carbonic acid 
Avhich is rencAved as fast as abstracted. Its good effects 
begin to be seen when the dust is applied at the rate of 
forty bushels per acre. Charcoal is invaluable for destroy- 
ing the odor of decaying animal matter, retaining all the 
gases in its own substance ready to yield them up for the 
use of plants. Hence, the best application of this sub- 
stance is not directly to the soil, but to compost it with 
putrescent animal matters, urine or night soil, of which it 
will absorb all the odor and fertilizing gases given off 
during their decomposition. Composted with the last 
named substance, it becomes poudrette, and is second only 
to guano as a fertilizer. 

In striking cuttings or potting plants, charcoal is a 
valuable substitute for sand, plants rooting in with greater 



86 GARDENIXa FOR THE SOUTH. 

certainty. Fine cliarcoal can be obtained in considerable 
quantities from the old hearths where it has been buried, 
also the refuse of smith's shops, founderies, and machine 
shops. All the refuse of the garden that will not decay, 
pea-brush, trimmings of trees, cabbage and corn stalks, to- 
gether with tanbark, saw-dust, fresh shavings may be 
collected, the coarser materials placed at the bottom and 
set on fire when the heap is building, then covered with 
the finer, beating all well together, cover it well with short 
moist, rubbish weeds and clods. Bermui^ grass turf is the 
best raateri'al for this purpose if you are troubled with it. 
Thrust a sta'ke in different places that the fire may run 
through the entire heap, and if it breaks out in any of 
these, stop them with rubbish or earth and make holes in 
a new place. When finished and the fire put out, store it 
up for use. The roasted turf as well as the charcoal is a 
most valuable manure, especially for roses. 

Beside charcoal, there are many other vegetable sub- 
stances of great value, as absorbents of the fertilizing salts 
and gases that would otherwise escape from animal 
manures. Carbonaceous matter of every sort should bo 
provided for this purpose. Gather the leaves of trees of 
all kinds including pine straw. They contain all the sub- 
stances necessary for the growth of the plants from which 
they fall, and in the proportion needed for new growth. 
Throw them into the stables and yards, moisten them and 
sprinkle them with the lime and salt mixture, and if kept 
in a damp state and turned over once or twice, they form 
the best manure known for all kinds of trees and shrubs, 
and indeed afford all the necessary constituents organic 
and inorganic of all cultivated plants. 

Another valuable absorbent is swamp muck. Gather 
the black earth of swamps, place in piles and let it dry 
out the superfluous moisture, haul it to the compost heap 



MANURES. 87 

or yard, and mix with every load a busliel and a half of 
the lime and salt mixture intimately while it is in a 
moderately moist state, and in thirty days it will be de- 
composed. Upon a layer of this earth six inches thick, 
spread a coat of fresh stable manure, each day covering it 
with ten times its quantity of prepared muck which will 
absorb all the gases and salts. Let the pile accumulate 
until four feet high, and then turn it all over^ mix it intim- 
ately, and cover the whole with a thick coat of prepared 
muck. If too dry to ferment, add water, and in three 
weeks it will be fit for use, and will be found equal to 
common stable manure, and is entirely free from insects of 
all kinds. In reducing composts of all kinds, the heap 
must be kept moist or no fermentation Avill be produced, 
keeping it " always moist but never leached " is the way 
to produce a strong compost. 

A thick layer of the muck should be kept also in the 
hog-pens and stables to absorb the urine, removing the 
solid manure from the latter daily, and the muck at the 
end of each week. Upon this muck also the house slops 
of all kinds should be poured and where charcoal is not 
employed, a busliel every three days should be thrown 
into the privy to destroy the offensive gases produced. 

Swamp muck may also be reduced with ashes or lime, 
either of which will destroy all acid properties. The salt 
and lime mixture is the best and usually the cheapest, but 
leached ashes mixed with carbonaceous matter have an 
additional part of their potash, rendered soluble and avail- 
able for plants, and should be used thus where obtain- 
able. 

Of still more valae is leaf mould or the black surface 
soil of the woods. This is free from the acid properties of 
swamp muck, and may be applied directly to most plants 
in the flower garden, many of which will not flourish un- 



38 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

less this material is present in the soil. It is of still more 
importance for potting plants in the greenhouse. For the 
kitchen and fruit garden it is best composted like swamp 
muck with fresh animal manure. 

Another material abounding in carbon which may, to 
some extent, be used as an absorbent of animal manure is 
tanbark. It may be beneficially applied directly to straw- 
berries, to which it answers the double purpose of mul- 
ching and manure. But the crowns of the plants must 
not be covered; for all purposes it should be obtained as 
much decomposed as possible. 

Tan may be applied directly to Irish potatoes when 
ready to cover in the furrow. After they are dropped fill 
the furrow even with the surface with tan, and finish by 
covering this wdth earth. A little of the lime and salt 
mixture is applied with the tan to great advantage. It 
improves the yield materially and the quality also, as all 
carbonaceous matters do. Where swamp muck or leaf 
mould can be obtained, it is hardly worth while to use 
tan as an absorbent of animal manures. It is very diffi- 
cult to reduce, but if kept moist the lime and salt mixture 
will do it. It may be strewed in the stock yard six or eight 
inches thick, and sprinkled pretty thickly with the mix- 
ture. The treading of the stock will mix it. Let the 
whole be turned over in a moist state once or twice, and 
in the course of the winter it will become a valuable ap- 
plication to the plants that do well with fresh manure. 
There are abundant elements of fertility in tan but it is 
more difficult to render them available than with any other 
vegetable substance ; perhaps the readiest and most profit- 
able method is to char it. Decayed chips, sawdust, 
shavings, &:c., are best applied to Irish potatoes, as directed 
in the case of tanbark. They should be covered with soil 
to promote a more speedy decay. 



MANURES. 39 

Green Manures. — There are various crops raised to turn 
into tlie ground in a fresh state for fertilizing it. For 
this pui-pose all the weeds of the garden should be em 
ployed while green unless they are thrown to the pig. 
Over any vacant spots in the garden not wished to be used 
in autumn, rye or barley can be soAvn which will keep the 
soil from washing, and when large enough may be either 
cut for the cow or turned into the soil as the plots are 
wanted for usje. 

Spinach should be sown in considerable quantities as it 
grows all winter and spaded into the soil in the spring 
adds a good deal to its fertility — the seed in any quantity 
can be saved with little trouble. The most important 
class of manures is that derived from animals. All animal 
manures when compared with the preceding class are rich 
in nitrogen, easily decomposed and rendered soluble, but 
though the effect of this class of substances is much more 
obvious it is not so lasting. 

The greatest attention should be paid to collecting, 
preserving, and economizing animal manure. Its great 
value consists in certain volatile and soluble substances 
which in the common mode of preserving manure are dis- 
sipated in the air or washed away by heavy rains. In 
this climate to shelter it from the sun and rain is very 
necessary. All animal matter is either directly or indirect- 
ly derived from vegetable substances, hence, every portion 
of the same that can be rendered soluble is a valuable food 
for plants. Among the most important animal substances 
employed as manures are urine and dung of all kinds. 
The first of these is almost invariably wasted, though in 
the case of the cow, it is of more value than the solid ex- 
crements. It should be carefully saved by bedding the 
yard and stables with swamp muck or some other absorb- 
ent. Urine is particularly rich in ammonia. This may 



40 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

be absorbed by the muck or its strength may be retained 
by sprinkling the floor of stables and the manure heap 
frequently with fine charcoal or plaster of Paris. Gypsum 
sprinkled upon the floors of stables forms a compound 
like the urate of commerce, so powerful that 500 pounds 
will amply manure an acre. If you can obtain no other 
absorbent, even tanner's bark is not without its value, 
but the weeds, sweepings of walks, and other refuse of the 
garden are to be preferred. Urine may also be diluted 
with three times its weight of water and permitted to 
grow stale and be applied at night or in moist weather 
directly to the growing crops. The principal animal 
manures are those of the horse, the hog, the cow, and the 
sheep. Of these horse manure is most valuable in its 
fresh state. That of the hog comes next, then that of the 
ox, while the cow is at the bottom of the list because most 
of the enriching substances in her food go to the formation 
of milk, leaving the manure comparatively weakened. 
The manures of animals is far richer than their food, be- 
cause it contains more nitrogen, the carbon and oxygen of 
the food being taken up by the lungs and blood to sustain 
the animal heat. The richer the food given to animals 
the more powerful is the manure. If animal manures are 
employed in a fresh state they should be mixed intimately 
with the soil and given to such coarse feeding crops as 
corn and the garden pea. But nearly all plants do better 
if the manure is composted and fully fermented before 
use. Pig manure used alone is pernicious to the growth 
of the cabbage and turnip tribe, and gives an unpleasant 
taste to many other vegetables, but composted with muck or 
mould it is much more beneficial as well as more durable. 
In managing animal manures, decomposition must be 
promoted to convert the nitrogen into ammonia — the vola- 
tile parts must be preserved from dissipation in the air. 



GUANO. 41 

and the soluble portions from being washed out by rains. 
That it may ferment, it must be kept in a body that heat 
may be generated and its natural moisture retained, while 
beneath it a layer of some absorbent substance should be 
placed to receive and retain its soluble parts, and as fast 
as it is thrown from the stables it should be covered with 
layers of muck to retain the ammonia. Horse manure, 
especially, should not be exposed at all, it begins to heat 
and lose nitrogen almost immediately as may be perceived 
by the smell. Mix it with other manures and cover it 
with absorbents as soon as possible. 

The manure of birds is richer than that of any other 
animals ; as the solid and liquid excrements are mixed to- 
gether, it is particularly rich in nitrogen and the phos- 
phates. Three or four hundred weight of the manure of 
fowls, turkeys, &c., is of equal value with from fourteen to 
eighteen loads of animal manure. Guano is a manure of this 
class. It is the manure of sea-birds which has accumulated in 
tropical latitudes where it seldom or never rains. These 
birds feed upon fish entirely, hence, the manure is re- 
markably rich in nitrogen. Guano is this substance with 
the water evaporated. The Peruvian and Bolivian are 
the best varieties, and when these can be bought pure, 
delivered at not over three dollars to three dollars and a 
half per hundred weight, it is generally the cheapest 
manure to be obtained as it is so easily applied — the labor 
of applying other manures often approaching the price of 
guano. It is well to apply about two hundred weight per 
aci'e with one half the usual quantity of other manure. 
Guano should never in a fresh state come in contact with 
seeds or the roots of plants as it is sure to destroy their 
vitality. In setting out fruit trees and shrubs of all kinds 
guano is the cheapest and most convenient manure to 
^PP^y- After the holes are dug, sprinkle the bottom 



42 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

thinly with a handful of guano. Cover this at least three 
inches deep. On this you may plant your trees with 
safety, and after the roots are covered a little more may 
be sprinkled and the whole covered with soil. But the 
great value of guano is in forming liquid manure, one 
pound of guano to five gallons of water applied once a week 
will add wonderfully to the growth of any plants watered 
with this mixture. For very delicate plants twice the 
above quantity of water should be given. If guano is not 
to be had, the manure of fowls is a good substiture. This 
liquid is especially valuable in the flower garden. It 
must be poured upon the roots and not upon the leaves or 
collars of the j)lants. On lawns, a pound sprinkled upon 
each square rod Avill restore their verdure. A great ad- 
vantage of applying guano is that no seeds of weeds are 
scattered in the soil. 

Night soil and chamber slops should be composted as 
before directed with charcoal or the black mould from the 
woods. 

Grypsum may be added to the mixture, all smell is 
thus destroyed and an offensive nuisance is converted into 
a valuable application to any crop. Where charcoal is 
freely used this substance becomes perfectly inodorous. 
Guano and poudrette are the best possible manures for 
the cabbage tribe and other plants that need phosphates 
and nitrogen. Both these manures are exceedingly pow- 
erful but their effects do not last beyond one season. The 
fertilizing properties exist in the right proportions to be 
taken up at once by the plants, and nearly all their nutri- 
tive properties are exhausted the season they are applied. 

The following table from Boussingault gives a compre- 
hensive view of the proportion of azote or nitrogen con- 
tained in the most common manures, and of their quality 



MANURES. 



43 



and equivalents, referred to farm yard dung as tlie stand- 
ard. Thus ten lbs. of fresh cotton-seed oil cake is equal 
in value to one hundred fresh or wet farm yard dung as 
far as the nitrogen in each is concerned. To form a perfect 
table of equivalents the phosphates, potash, &c., must be 
also taken into consideration. 





u. O 




Quality- 


Equivalent 




So 


Azote in 100 


according to 


according 1 




n 




state. 


to state. 1 


Dry. 


Wet 


Dry 


Wet. 


Dry. 


Wet 


Farm yard dung, . 


79.3 


1.95 


0.41 


100 


100 


100 


100 


Dung from an Inn yard, 


60.G 


2 08 


0.79 


107 


107 


94 


51 


Dung water. 


99.6 


1.54 


0.06 


78 


2 


127 


68 


Withered leaves of carrots, 


70.9 


2.94 


0.85 


150 


212.5 


66 


47 


do. do. of oak 


25.0 


1.57 


1.18 


80 


293 


125 


34 


Oyster shells, . 


17.9 


0.40 


0.32 


20 


80 


488 


125 


Oak sawdust, 


26.0 


0.72 


0.54 


36 


135 


256 


74 


Oil cake of cotton seed, . 


11.0 


4.52 


4.02 


231 


1000 


32 


10 


Solid cow dung, . 


85 9 


2.30 


0.32 


117 


80 


84 


125 


Urine of cows, . 


88.3 


3.80 


0.44 


194 


110 


51 


91 


Mixed cow dung, . 


84.3 


2.59 


0.41 


132 


102.5 


75 


98 


Solid horse dung, . 


75.3 


2.21 


0.55 


113 


137.5 


88 


73 


Horse urine.. 


79.1 


12.50 


2.61 


641 


652.5 


15^ 


Ui 


Mixed (horse dung,) 


75.4 


3.02 


2.74 


154 


185 


66 


54 


Pig dung, . 


81.4 


3.37 


0.63 


172 


157.5 


58 


63 


Sheep dung, 


63.0 


2.99 


1.11 


153 


277.5 


65 


36 


Poudrette of Belloni, . 


12.5 


4.40 


3.85 


225 


962 


44 


lOi 


Pigeon's dung. 


9.6 


9.02 


8.30 


462 


2075 


2]i 


5 


Guano from England, . 


19.6 


6.20 


5.00 


323 


1247 


3U 


80 


Idem .... 


23.4 


7.05 


5.40 


361;1349 


28 


74 


do. imp. from France, 


11.3 


15.73 


13.95 


807 


3487 


12i 


28i 


Dried muscular flesh, . 


8.5 


14.25 


13.04 


730 


3260 


ISh 


3 


Liquid blood, . 


81.0 




2.95 


795 


3045 


12^ 


34 


Fresh bones,. 


30.0 




5.31 




1326 




n 


Feathers, .... 


12.9 


17.61 


15.34 


903 


3835 


11 


2i 


Cow hair flock, . 


8.9 


15.12 


13.78 


775|3445 


13 


3 


Woollen rags, . 


11.3 


20.26 


17.98 


10394495 


9k 


21 


Plorn shavings, • 


9.0 


15.78 


14.36 


809 


3590 


m 


3 


Wood soot, . 


5.6 


1.31 


1.15 


67 


287-5149 


35 


Vegetable mould,. 




1.03 




53 


llS9 


33 



There are several other substances which, Avhen they 
can be obtained, should be carefully applied. Among 



44 GARDENINa FOR THE SOUTH. 

tliese, the most available are tlie offal of slaughtered ani- 
mals and their carcasses, hair, bristles, leather, refuse from 
the tanners and shoemakers, woollen rags, and bones. All 
these contain the elements required by growing plants in 
a very concentrated state. The hair, bristles, &c., may 
be applied directly to any crop. These matters are very 
powerful, and a small quantity will suffice. Slaughter- 
house offal, and the carcasses of any animals that may have 
died, should be buried deeply in a pit, with absorbents 
beneath, and covered with muck or loam. In a year it 
will become a most valuable manure. 

Bonks are an especially useful application to almost any 
garden crop. Bones contain sixty-six parts of earthy mat- 
ter, mostly phosphate of lime, and thirty-four parts of gel- 
atine. Phosphate of lime, next to ammonia, is the most 
necessary application to a soil, because the first element 
exhausted. Gelatine is rich in nitrogen, so that in bones 
are united the most desirable organic and inorganic ma- 
nures. Applied whole, bones decompose too slowly to be 
of much value, and would be greatly in the way of tillage. 
They may be broken small with a sledge-hammer or crow- 
bar, in a large wooden mortar, lined at the bottom with a 
thick iron plate. When beaten small, the fine dust can 
be sifted out, and the remainder moistened and thrown'up 
in heaps, to ferment a few months. Bones can be dis- 
solved by boiling them jn strong lye, and dried, by mixing 
with ashes or sand, can be applied broadcast or in the 
drills. The best way to treat bones is to dissolve them in 
sulphuric acid, forming superphosphate of lime. A car- 
boy of sulphuric acid, costing about four dollars, at whole- 
sale, in the cities, and containing one hundred and sixty 
pounds, will dissolve about three hundred pounds of bones. 
The bones should be put in a tub. A portion of the acid 



COMPOST. 45 

equal to one-third should be diluted by pouring it into 
three times its bulk of water, and then should be poured 
upon the bones. After standing a day or two, pour on 
another portion of diluted acid, and if not already dissolved, 
in a day or two after the remainder should be added. The 
mass must be often stirred. The bones will dissolve into 
a kind of paste, which may be mixed with thirty times its 
bulk of water, and used as a liquid manure, but it is more 
convenient in practice to mix it with ashes, sawdust, or fine 
charcoal. Three bushels of these dissolved bones are suf- 
ficient for an acre. The acid has converted the bones into 
a superphosphate of lime, which is very soluble, and is 
readily taken up by the plant. This is the most valuable 
of all manures for the turnip, and the quantity needed for 
the acre is so little that the expense is less than almost 
any other application. 

Composts.— The composting of manure should take 
place, as a general thing, as fast as it is made. Still, 
in the garden, out of sight, there should be a compost heap 
for receiving all kinds of rubbish that can have the least 
value as fertilizers. Make a shallow excavation of a 
square or oblong form, with the bottom sloping to one end. 
Into this collect the litter and sweepings of the yards, de- 
cayed vegetables of all kinds, brine, soapsuds, and slops 
from the house, woollen rags, leaves, green weeds, and 
garden refuse. After it has accumulated a little, turn it 
over, adding a little of the salt and lime mixture, and keep 
the whole inodorous, by covering it with rich mould or 
black earth from the woods. If the heap is formed en- 
tirely of vegetable materials, ashes and lime should be 
added ; but if it contain animal matter, they would do 
harm by letting free the ammonia. The heap should not 
be deep, but, like all other manure heaps, should be kept 



46 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

" always moist, but never leached," by the addition of 
liquids from the house and kitchen. If this compost be for a 
sandy soil, the addition of clay would be very beneficial. 

Special Manures. — The subject of special manures, 
though still in its infancy having attracted great attention, 
we have given under the head of all the most important 
vegetables, their analyses and sometimes with hints for 
special manuring the same. 

We know each species of animals requires peculiar kinds 
of food in order fully to develop its poAvers, and that food 
specially adapted to one species will not nourish and will 
be refused by another. The dog or cat would starve on 
food which would fatten the horse. So each species of 
vegetable is equally select in its requirements for food. 
Some plants will perish in soil specially adapted for the 
growth of a different species. Every plant will not come 
to perfection in a rich soil. More or less lime is necessary 
for instance to most cultivated plants, yet the pine sorrel 
and kalmia will not grow where much lime is present. 

Besides organic substances as already stated, all culti- 
vated plants contain several or all of the following constitu- 
ents : potash, soda, lime, magnesia, chlorine, sulphuric and 
phosphoric acids, silex, &c., and for successful culture all 
the inorganic materials of a plant must be found in the soil. 
The amount of these substances found in the soil can be 
pretty exactly determined by analysis, but sufficiently so 
for all practical purposes by noticing its geological forma- 
tion and the plants growing spontaneously upon it. Soil 
analyses should be obtained only of the most accurate 
chemists as there are many sources of error and the pro- 
portion of some one or two materials required by plants 
in the soil is so small that they may possibly exist in suf- 
ficient quantity and yet escape detection. The amount of 



ROTATION OF CROPS. 47 

these substances taken np by eacli plant is determined by- 
analyzing its ashes. The amount of each of these materials 
in healthy plants of the same species at the same stage 
of growth is pretty constant. 

In some species no soda at all is found, in others no 
magnesia, in others very little lime, and the proportion of 
acids as well as alkalies, varies in different plants. The 
object of special manures is to supply those substances 
which are most likely not to exist in the soil in sufficient 
quantity for the wants of the plant under cultivation. The 
salts most important to the growth of plants in which soils 
are most apt to be deficient are lime, phosphate of lime, 
and potash. An application of the two latter is almost 
invariably beneficial. Other substances also when taken 
up in large quantities will require to be supplied, such as 
soda, sulphuric acid, and chlorine. The analysis of a plant 
however does not always indicate truly what the plant 
most needs in the soil. Many plants have more of the 
phosphate in their composition than the turnip but no one 
is so much benefited by the application of phosphate and 
superphosphate of lime. 

EoTATiON OF Crops. — As different plants appropriate 
different substances, the rotation of crops has considerable 
influence in retaining the fertility of a soil. If the same 
kind of plants are continued upon the same soil, only a 
portion of the properties of the manure applied is used, 
while by a judicious rotation everything in the soil or in the 
manure suitable for vegetable food is taken up and appro- 
priated by the crop. Some vegetables as onions and carrots 
are very exhausting to the soil while lettuce is very slightly 
prejudicial. Hence, however plentiful manure may be, a 
succession of exhausting crops should not be grown upon 
the same bed, not only because abundance is no excuse for 



48 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

want of economy, but because manure freshly applied is 
not so immediately beneficial as those remains of organized 
matter which by long continuance in the soil have become 
impalpably divided and diffused through its texture of 
which each succeeding crop consumes a portion. Those 
plants generally are least exhausting which have the lar- 
gest surface of leaves, not only because they are made up 
of a greater proportion of aqueous matter but also because 
they are enabled to obtain more in proportion of their food 
from the atmosphere. A rotation was formerly thought 
necessary from an idea that each plant throws off from its 
roots into the soil certain matters which are injurious to 
others of the same species afterward grown upon the soil, 
but this view can hardly be sustained. Another reason 
for rotation of crops is that some crops are so favorable to 
weeds that if continued long upon the same bed the labor 
of cultivating them is much increased, while if raised but 
once in a place and followed by a cleaning crop, the weeds 
are easily kept under. 

Besides many crops planted continually in the same soil 
are more liable to be attacked by the insects which are 
the peculiar enemies of those plants. Again different 
plants derive their principal nourishment from different 
depths of soil. Hence deep-rooted plants should be suc- 
ceeded by those whose roots extend but little below the 
surface. Perennial plants by annuals, crops left for seed 
or that are of a dry solid texture, by those which are suc- 
culent and juicy. 

In short, the same species of plants should never be 
grown in successive crops upon the same ground. The 
most beneficial plan is Avhere exhausting and non-exhaust- 
ing crops alternate with each other, as after manure, viz. : 
Onions, Lettuce, Cabbage, Carrots, Manure ; or, 
Turnips, Celery, Peas, Potatoes, Manure. 



ROTATION OF CEOPS. 49 

The following is also a very good rotation : 

1. The cabbage tribe to be followed by 

2. Alliaceous plants, as onions, leeks, &c., to be followed 
by legumes, as beans or peas. Peas may be followed the 
same year with celery. 

3. Tap-rooted plants, as carrots, beets, parsnips 

4. Surface roots, as onions, potatoes, turnips. 

5. Celery, endive, lettuce, spinach, &c. 

Celery is excellent to precede asparagus, onions, cauli- 
flowers, or turnips ; old asparagus beds for carrots, pota- 
toes, &c. ; strawberries, and raspberries for the cabbage 
tribe ; cabbage for the tap-rooted plants ; potatoes for the 
cabbage tribe. 

In these rotations it is not necessary to apply manure 
to every crop. For the bulbous roots as the onion, plants 
cultivated for their leaves as spinach and asparagus, the 
ground can scarcely be too rich, and the bulk of the ma- 
nures may be applied to them and the cabbage and tur- 
nip crops, while for plants raised for seed it is best that 
the foliage should not be stimulated into too great luxu- 
riance. 

Sub-succession. — To get the highest possible results 
from a garden, there must be not only a general rotation 
of crops year by year, but a number of sub-successions 
each year, as fast as the crops are removed. One-fourth 
of an acre thoroughly manured and kept perfectly free 
from weeds, and as fast as one crop is removed another 
placed upon the ground, will yield more than an acre 
managed in the common way. 

For instance, late in the fall a portion of the garden 

may be occupied with spinach ; this should be heavily 

manured, and may keep the ground until time to plant 

melons and other vines, when just enough of the ground 

3 



50 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

may be deeply dug to form tlie melon hills, and the crop 
"vvill be readj to remove before the melons begin to run. 
The melon crop m.ay be followed bj one of turnips. All 
such plants as radish, lettuce, and other small salads need 
take up no room : they can, any of them, be raised be- 
tween the potatoe drills, or between melon hills, rows of 
corn, &c. and will come to perfection before the potatoe or 
other crops require the ground. Eadishes can be raised 
in the beds of all kinds of plants that are slow in coming 
up, as carrots, parsnips, &c., and will be ready to remove 
by the time the others come up. Three or four weeks 
before Irish potatoes are ripe, a plant of winter cabbage 
can be placed in the trench caused by earthing up the po- 
tatoes, where it vcill find shade and moisture until well 
established, and digging the potatoes will cultivate the 
cabbage. Between the rows of early potatoes is also a 
good situation for raising celery for home use. 

Any vacant spot that occurs early in summer should be 
occupied with plantings of extra early or sweet corn, pota- 
toes, kidney beans, for preserving for winter use, and cu- 
cumbers for pickling. Those coming later in the season, 
may be occupied by sweet potatoe until July, then corn, 
cow peas, or Ruta Baga turnips. Where the early onions 
grow, both in the alleys and in the centre of the bed, 
before much of the crop is removed, may be planted with 
late cabbages or Siberian kale. Cabbage will head out 
planted 1st August if in moist ground and well culti- 
vated, and sweet corn may be planted at the same time. 
Still later, every unoccupied corner should he covered 
with turnips and winter radishes, which may cover nearly 
the v.-hole garden, being sown in drills between the rows 
of plants not yet quite ready to be removed. After the 
frost has come, any vacant spaces should be immediately 
sown with spinach, onions, and other crops for early spring 



PROFITS OF GARDENING. 51 

use, or with barley or rye for the cow. The secret of 
successful cultivation, says Downing, is an abundant sup- 
ply of manure. A small extent of ground well manured 
and trenched deeply, by these sub-successions, will pro- 
duce an enormous amount of yegetables, Avhile only the 
same surface needs to be hoed, manured, and kept free 
from weeds as if it produced but one crop. To be sure, 
more manure and more labor are needed, but nothing like 
the amount which would be required to produce the same 
crops without these sub-successions. Many other sub-suc- 
cessions will occur to a thoughtful gardener, but to derive 
the full benefit of them the grounds should be trenched at 
least thirty inches deep when the garden is formed. 

Profits of Gardening. — The results of the above mode 
of procedure, in the case of the garden of the Retreat for 
the Insane at Utica, New York, were published by Dr. 
Brigham. The land was good and yearly manured. The 
product was as follows on one and one-fourth acres of 
land : — 11 00 heads lettuce, large ; 1400 heads cabbage, large ; 
700 bunches radishes ; 250 bunches asparagus ; 300 bunches 
rhubarb ; 14 bushels pods, marrowfat peas; 40 bushels beans ; 
sweet corn, 3 plantings, 419 dozen; summer squash, 71-5 
dozen; squash peppers, 45 dozen; cucumbers, 756 dozen; 
cucumber pickles, 7 barrels ; beets, 147 bushels; carrots, 29 
bushels; parsnips, 26 bushels; onions, 120 bushels; turnips, 
SO bushels; early potatoes, 35 bushels; tomatoes, 40 bushels; 
winter squash, 7 wagon loads; celery, 500 heads — all worth 
621 dollars in Utica market, but supplied one hundred 
and thirty persons with all they could consume. Only 
one man was required to do all the necessary labor. 

Forwarding Early Crops. — Early crops in the open 
air should be planted in a sheltered situation, on a dark- 



52 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

colored, silicioiis soil. It may be brought to a proper 
state by the admixture of sand and charcoal. Crops may 
be retarded by planting in a border sheltered from the 
sun, and of a lighter color and more aluminous. There 
are many plants which do much better if sown in the fall. 
Rhubarb, parsley, &c., come up more freely if suffered to 
be in the ground all winter. Potatoes, too, may be early 
planted, and if they come up, should be sheltered by a cover- 
ing of straw or litter, added from time to time to keep them 
from frost. Cabbage, cauliflower, brocoli, &c., may be kept 
out all winter in boxes made by nailing four pieces of 
boards together, eight inches wide. Cut the pieces 12 
inches wide at the bottom, and 10 at the top, nail them 
together at the corners. After the frosts begin to be se- 
vere, throw in a handful of loose straw, which will pre- 
vent the sudden freezing and thawing of the plants. 
Great care should be taken to produce early crops, as 
they are less liable to be injured by insects or weeds, and 
very much increase the satisfaction of gardening. Early 
plants may be obtained by sowing them in a box set by a 
window, or raised in autumn and protected in winter in a 
cold frame or pit, or raised any time during winter in a 
hot bed for those more delicate, or in a cold frame under 
glass for the hardier kinds. Kadishes sown under glass 
without heat early in January are generally fit for use 
early in March. Such plants, when set out in the spring, 
require shading a few days until established. 

Frames or Hot Beds are most usually employed for 
forwarding plants. The frame for general use has from 
three to five sashes, (see plate), and is made for con- 
venience about four and a half or five feet wide, and 
the length depends on the number of sashes, which are 
usually about forty inches wide. Use the smallest glass 
you can obtain, certainly not over seven by nine. A 



HOT BEDS. 



58 



smaller size is preferable, as it is not so liable to be 
broken, and can be more readily repaired. These sashes 
are made without cross-bars, the glass over-lapping like 




tlie shingles of a house, and resting on bars extending 
lengthwise of the sash. The lap of each pane of glass need 
not be over half an inch, and if the glass is set in the sash 
when freshh^ painted with two coats of good paint, no 
puttying is necessary. The bars which sustain the glass 
may be two inches wide, which will make the sash 
stronger. The frame is a box of boards, three feet high 
in front, and three feet ten inches in the back. The front, 
of course, is towards the south. Let the corners of the 
frame be nailed to small pieces of scantling, which may 
rest upon bricks or blocks. At the corner, also, of each 
sash let another piece of scantling be placed, and on the 
top of these, narrow strips twice the length of the sash are 
to be nailed, extending back for the sash to slide upon. 
The ends projecting should also be supported by pieces 
of timber. Between the sashes, nail an inch strip a little 
thicker than the sash to the narrow plank on which they 
slide, and put on the sash ; and upon this strip nail 
another narrow strip, projecting over the sash a little, to 
hold them in their place, but not so tightly but what they 
will readily slide in this groove. They can be taken out 
at either end. Tack on a piece of leather at the upper 



5-4 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH: 

end of each sasli, to draw it up more readily. All cracks 
should be closed by fitting in pieces of boards over them. 
Fill up the box thus constructed with good stable ma- 
nure, in which there is plenty of litter. If this is not in 
the mass in sufficient quantity, add oak-leaves or tanbark. 
There should be at least one-third litter in the heap. 
Shake it up and mix it well together, adding water if at 
all dry, and throw it into a compact heap to ferment. In 
a week, turn it over, and if dry and musty in any part, 
water the same. Let it be two or three days longer, and 
then work it over thoroughly, as before, and water if ne- 
cessary. Then put it into the frame and press it down 
closely, and equally filling it within twelve inches of the 
top all around, a little higher in the Centre than at the 
sides. It is well to excavate about ten inches below the 
frame, to admit a larger body of manure. Put on the 
sash and keen them close until the heat rises and a steam 
appears upon the glass. As soon as the heat rises, give 
air at noon each day, but keep closed in the evening and 
at night, unless the heat is very violent, when a little air 
should be given. In three days, if the manure was suffi- 
ciently moist, the bed will be ready for use. If it has set- 
tled unequally, level the surface and add eight inches of 
fine, dark-colored, sandy garden-soil, spread it evenly, and 
put on the sash. When warmed through, sow in pots 
plunged in the mould, or in small drills from one-eighth 
of an inch to an inch deep, varying in depth with the size 
of the seeds, and cover by sifting fine earth on the sur- 
face. Water gently by sprinkling through the fine rose 
of a watering pot, until the seeds appear, when they 
should have air every day freely (unless absolutely freez- 
ing) which will bring them up strong, and prevent their 
dropping off by excess of confined moisture. There are 
very few days which will not permit opening the bed at 



PROPAGATION. 55 

noon. During warm, gentle rains, the sasli sliould be 
opened, but closed very carefully during cold or heavy 
washing storms. About 60^ is the proper temperature. 
Such a bed as this is invaluable for striking cuttings of 
all kinds, in which case there should be an inch of clear 
river sand or charcoal spread over the surface. Annuals 
of all kinds for the flower garden, radish, tomatoes, pep- 
pers, cabbage and lettuce plants, &c., will be ready, if the 
bed is made in January, for transplanting quite as soon as 
they can be removed with safety. 

Cold Frames are made just like the above, only the 
box need not be over 15 inches high at the back, and are 
excellent for wintering half hardy plants of all kinds, and 
also for forwarding the more hardy plants, as cabbage, 
lettuce, &c. Indeed, they are quite as indispensable as 
the hot bed, and less expensive. In very severe weather, 
tlie heat may be kept in by earthing up the sides and 
covering the sash with mats during the night. Air should 
always be given when the weather will admit, or the 
plants will grow up yellow and spindling. In managing 
frames, the secret of success is to give plenty of air. 
Plants raised in cold frames are generally more hardy and 
desirable than those from a hot bed. 

Propagation of Plants. — There are only two general 
modes of propagating plants, viz., hy seed and by division. 
Species are propagated by seed, but varieties, generally by 
division as they do not always continue true from seed. 
There are also two modes oi propagating by division; in 
the one, the plants root in the ground as suckers, layers 
and cuttings, and in the other they root in another plant, 
as in budding, grafting, and inarching. While all plants 
are naturally multiplied by seed, most kinds also allow of 
propagation by division, as by taking offsets, parting their 



56 GAl:DENI^'G FOR THE SOUTH. 

roots, suckers, cuttings, runners, layers, &c. Propagation 
by seed often produces new varieties wliicli are only to be 
perpetuated by division of tlieir roots, cuttings, layers, or 
budding and grafting upon stocks. 

Propagation by Seed. — The most healtby and vigor- 
ous plants are generally produced by seed, and tins is the 
only method of obtaining new varieties. Great care should 
be used in the selection of seed, as on their perfection the 
growth of the young plant very much depends. They 
should be sound and well ripened that they may germinate 
freely. Some seeds lose their vitality very soon after 
being gathered, others retain it but one or two seasons, 
and are better if sown as fresh as possible, while melon 
seed grows better by keeping. The soundness of seed 
may be tested by putting them into warm water ; nearly 
all sound seeds Avill sink in this fluid in a short time. They 
can also be proved by planting a few in a pot and keep- 
ing it in a warm room, or plunged in a hot bed, and a few 
days will test the soundness of the seed. The causes of 
unsoundness in seed are blight, unripeness, mouldiness 
and age. 

Seed should not only be sound but of the right kind as 
it is very vexatious to sow early Yorks when you think 
your are sowing drumheads and vice versa. The way to 
avoid such mistakes is either to raise your own seed, or to 
know of whom you buy. Your own eye in the case of 
many seeds will not assist you at all in discriminating. 

Seed must not only be of the right sort, but true to that 
sort. Early York cabbage seed may be sown, or Scarlet 
radish seed, yet from having been planted near to some 
other varieties, the seed is crossed with them and the most 
valuable qualities of the variety lost. The cabbage may 
be late or long-legged and not head at all, or the radish 



SAVING SEEDS. 57 

tough and missliapeu. The seed may come up well but 
when fullgTOwn not be at all the thing you wish. Truth in 
seed is in insured by raising them yourself and at so great 
a distance from any other plants of the same species that 
intermixture is impossible. If you buy, purchase only of 
a trusty seedsmen, and as these cannot raise all the va- 
rieties, even they may be deceived. If you get hold of 
seeds that are very true, it is best to buy enough to last as 
long as those seeds will keep. Among the n;ost reliable 
wholesale seedsmen, I will mention the follo-wing houses 
(without disparaging others), whose seeds I have used and 
find them reliable. Buist & Landreth, of Plxiladelphia ; 
Hovey & Co., of Boston ; and Thorburn, of New York. 
In many cases it would be better to remit to these gentle- 
men direct, through a merchant and obtain the desired 
kinds, than to plant the miserable seeds often sent out to 
our stores, even if the latter were gratis. There is no 
reason in the world why the South should not raise its 
own seeds. 

Saving and Preserving Seeds. — Directions are given 
under each plant, but we will add the following general 
rules : — 

The very finest plants should be chosen for this pur- 
pose, that is, those most true to their kind and most 
perfect in shape and quality. In the cabbage, a small 
short stem, well formed head with few loose leaves ; in the 
turnip large bulb, small neck, few short and slender stalked 
leaves, and solid flesh. In the radish, high color (unless 
v>'hite), small neck, few and short leaves, and in the case 
of flowers, seed should be saved only from those most per- 
fectly developed. 

Great care should be taken to preserve the varieties 
unmixed, as if varieties of the same species, or very similar 
3* 



68 GARDENING FOK THE SOUTH. 

species are planted near each otlier they will cross and 
produce untrue seed. In this way, it is true, valuable va- 
rieties often originate, but the chances preponderate that 
the produce will be worthless. There can be no cross 
between a cabbage and a carrot, because they are of totally 
different races, and there is no similarity ; but all the 
varieties of cabbage will cross with each other, with Brus- 
sels sprouts, turnips, and in short with all the others de- 
scribed under the genus Brassica. So of corn ; in a few 
years the early varieties from the North become so inter- 
mingled Avith our own as not to be distinguished. Often 
three or four varieties of as many colors may be found on 
one ear when several sorts grow near together. The 
pollen of one variety is conveyed to the pistil of the 
other and the result is a hybrid partaking more or less of 
the character of both parents. The difficulty of keeping 
seeds pure renders it advisable not to save seeds of two 
varieties of any species the same year. 

Seeds should stand until perfectly ripe, and should be 
cut or pulled in dry Aveather, and dried thoroughly before 
being threshed. If any moisture then appears, dry them 
further and store in paper bags, keeping free from vermin 
and damp. Insects can be kept from most seeds by sprink- 
ling the paper with spirits of turpentine. Peas and beans 
when thoroughly dried should be kept in Avell stopped 
bottles in which a few drops of spirits of turpentine have 
been placed. This will destroy the bugs as they hatch. 

The following list of the time seeds keep is from Oob- 
bett, but with a few exceptions mentioned hereafter, it is 
always best to sow new seed : 



GERMTXATTOX OF SEKD. 



59 



Artichoke . . 
Asparagus 
BaJm . . . 
Basil • . . 
Beau . . . 
Bean (Kidney) 
Beet . . . 
Borage . . 
Brocoli . . . 
Burnet . . . 
Cabbage . . 
Calabash . , 
Cale . . . . 
Cale (Sea) 
Camomile . . 
Capsicum . . 
Caraway 
Carrot . . 
Cauliflower . . 
Celery . , . 
Chervil . . . 
Cives . . . 
Cora . . . 
Corn-Salad 
Coriander , . 
Cress . . . 



Years. 



3 I Cucumber 



Years. 
. . 10 



Dandelion 


. 10 


Dock . . . 


. 1 


Endive . . 


. 4 


Fennel . . . 


. 5 


Garlick . . 


. 3 


Gourd . . . 


. 10 


Hop . . . 


. 2 


Horse-Radish . 


. 4 


Hyssop . . . 


. 6 


Jerusalem Artichoke 3 


Lavender . . 


2 


Leek . . . 


2 


Lettuce . . 


o 


Mangel Wurzel 


•1? 


Marjoram . . 


4 


Marigold . . 


^ 


Melon . . . 


. lO 


Mint . . . 


4 


Mustard . . 


4 


Nasturtium 


. 2 


Onion . . . 





Parsley . . . 


6 
1 


Parsnip . . 


Pea .... 


1 


Pennyroyal . 


2 



■ Potatoc 
Pumpkin . 
Purslane 
Radish 
Rampion 
Rape . . 
Rhubarb 
Rosemary . 
Rue . . 
Ruta-Baga 
Salsify . 
Samphire . 
Savory . 
Scorzenera 
Shalot . 
Skirret 
Sorrel 
Spinach 
Squash . 
Tansy . 
Tarragon 
Thyme 
Tomatum 
Turnip 
Wormwood 



Years. 
3 
10 

2 
2 
4 
1 
3 



Sowing and GeRiMINation of Seed. — The seedsman 
is often blamed for selling bad seed, when the fault is 
with the planter. That seed may germinate moisture, 
air, and a certain degree of warmth, varying with each 
variety, are necessary. Light must also be excluded until 
the root can derive nourishment from the soil. The first 
effect of air, heat, and moisture upon the seed, is to 
change its starchy matter into a sugary pulp, the proper 
food of the embryo. If at this time the seed be withered 
by exposure to heat without sufficient covering, it will 
perish. It often happens that seeds are planted in a fresh- 
dug soil, and the above change in the properties of the 
seed takes place, but the earth not h^m^ pressed upon it 
the seed dries up and the embryo perishes. Others again 
are buried too deeply, and though the seed swells, yet 



60 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

sufficient air and warmth are not obtained to give the em- 
bryo life. The seed should be just so far covered as to 
exclude light, and afford barely moisture sufficient for its 
wants. The first thing in sov/ing is a suitable preparation 
of the soil, so that the young roots thrown out may easily 
penetrate it. It must be made more or less fine for differ- 
ent seeds. Peas and beans do not require the soil to be 
as finely pulverized as small seeds. The seeds must also 
be firmly fixed in the soil, and pressed by the earth in 
every part in order to retain moisture sufficient to encour- 
age vegetation, but they should not be so deeply buried 
as to be dej^rived of air, or have their ascending shoots 
impeded by too much soil above. In all cases, seeds 
should be sown in fresh dug soil, that they may have the 
benefit of the moisture therein, but they should never be 
put in when the soil is really wet, as the ground will bake 
and the seed perish. Moist weather in summer is excel- 
lent for putting in seeds, provided the ground is still fria- 
ble. Just before a light rain is the best possible time for 
soAving turnips and other summer sown crops. 

Seeds of all kinds should be sown in drills or rows. In 
these they can be planted at any required depth, while if 
broad cast, some will be uncovered, and others too 
deeply buried in the earth. In drills you can know also 
where to look for the young plants ; they can have the 
Boil dug around them, they will thus groAV much faster, 
and are much more easily thinned and cultivated. Wlien 
the seeds are planted, the earth should generally be 
pressed upon them with a roller or by treading with the 
feet in the case of large seeds, or by smoothing the sur-* 
face with the back of the spade or by Avalking over them 
on a board for the smaller kinds. Pressing the earth upon 
them will retain the moisture about them, and hasten 
their vegetation, When they come up keep them free 



PROPAGATION. ' 61 

from weeds, and thin them as directed under the name of 
each plant. 

Propagation by Division. — Propagation by division, 
in the case of bulhs or tuhers, is analogous to sowing 
seeds. A bulb requires the same influences to make it 
vegetate, and its manner of growth is much the same, but 
for all bulbs the soil should be deeply pulverized, and 
most bulbs and t»ubers require to be planted more deeply 
than seeds. 

Suckers. — Sending up suckers, forming offsets and 
throwing out runners, are all natural ways of propagation, 
and if all plants produced them, nothing more would be 
required than to divide the offspring from the parent, and 
replant in any suitable soil. But, in general, those only 
produce suckers that send out stray horizontal roots, as 
the sucker is in fact a bud from one of these roots which 
has pushed its way through the soil and become a stem 
As this stem generally forms fibrous roots of its own above 
the point of junction with the parent root, it may be slip- 
ped off and planted like a rooted cutting. Its supply of 
nourishment will be diminished when separated from the 
parent stem, and its head, therefore, should be cut in to 
diminish evaporation. It is well, when the parent plant 
is strong, to take up a part of the horizontal root and plant 
with the sucker attached. 

Suckers of another kind spring from the collar of the 
old plant, and are slipped off with any fibrous roots they 
may have attached. The great objection to planting out 
suckers is, that plants grown from them have a much greater 
tendency to throw out suckers, and thereby become ex- 
ceedingly annoying in gardens, by encroaching on other 
plants, than if propagated by other m.ethods. Raspberries, 



62 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

lilacs, roses, snowballs, and many other plants and shrubs 
are readily propagated by suckers. Suckers should never 
be used of plants that may be propagated by other 
modes. 

Offsets are formed on bulbs only, being young bulbs 
attached to the sides of the old ones, and merely require 
breaking off and planting in a light, rich soil. Runners 
are throAvn out by the strawberry, &c. They spring from 
the crown or collar of the plant, and throw out roots at 
their joints, which may be cut off from the parent plant 
and set out in good soil, to make neAv plants. 

Layers are branches bent into the earth, and half cut 
through near the bend, the free portion of the wound be- 
ing called a tongue {a). This 
is kept open by a bit of twig, 
or piece of crock. They are 
in fact cuttings only partially 
separated from parent plants. 
The incision is made through 
the bark at the base of a bud. 
The object of the gardener is 
to induce the layer to emit roots into the earth at the 
tongue.* With this view, he twists the shoot half round, 
so as to injure the wood vessels ; he heads it back so that 
only a bud or two appear above ground, and when much 
watering is required, he places a handful of silver sand 
around the tongued part, then pressing the earth down 
with his foot, so as to secure the layer, he leaves it with- 
out further care. The intention of both tongueing and 
twisting is to prevent the return of the sap from the layer 
into the main stem, while a small portion is allowed to rise 
out of the latter into the former. The effect of this opera- 

^' See Liudley's ** Theory of Horticulture.'^ 




GARDEXS. 66 

tlon is to compel the returning sap to organize itself exter- 
nally as roots, instead of passing downwards below the 
bark as wood ; the bending back is to assist this object, 
by preventing the expenditure of sap in the completion of 
leaves. The bud left on the tongue favors the emission 
of roots, as a tendency in nearly all plants exists to throw 
out roots at the joints, and the silver sand secures the 
drainage so necessary to cuttings. When the roots are 
thrown out naturally wherever a joint touches the earth, 
as in the verbena, they only require pegging down to 
make them form new plants. To make them emit roots, 
the returning sap may be arrested by taking off a ring of 
bark, or a wire twisted tightly around it pinching the 
bark, or any other operation that impedes the return of 
the sap beyond the parts where roots are desired. The 
best season for layering is before the sap begins to rise in 
the spring, or from the last of June, during summer on 
wood of the same season's growth. A good time for roses 
is after the first bloom is over. Layered at this time, they 
will generally be fit to take up the ensuing winter, but 
most plants require twelve months, and some two years, 
before they will root. In nurseries the ground is prepared 
around each stool by digging and manuring, and the 
branches laid down neatly, so as to form a radiated circle 
round the stool, with the ends rising all around the circle 
about the same height. Where it is difficult to get the 
shoot to be layered down to the soil, a portion of the soil 
may be raised to the plant as the Chinese gardeners prac- 
tice in a pot, the earth in Avliich should be kept steadily 
moist. 

Cuttings. — A cutting is a part of a plant capable of 
emitting roots, and becoming an individual similar to its 
parent. To effect this, a suitable temperature and degree 
of moisture are required. Cuttings in general may be 
taken from stem, branch, or root. Cuttings of the stems 



64 GAKDK^'ING FOR THE SOUTH. 

and branches differ from layers, in being removed without 
root, and they generally require shading, which layers do 
not, and occasionally bottom heat, to make them throw 
out roots. The branches most suitable for cuttings are 
those which grow nearest to the ground, especially those 
which recline upon it, as they have a greater tendency to 
throw out roots. The time for making cuttings of hardy 
plants is in the autumn, and through the early winter 
months, as the frost seldom throws them out with us. 
Rose cuttings put out the last of October will be ready, 




with a little care, to be put out in place early in spring, 
having rooted perfectly during the winter. If put in a hot 
bed, the plants will have increased in size materially, 
growing all winter. A good time for roses is also directly 
after they have made their spring flowering, and are be- 
ginning to grow. At this time some roses will be upon 
the parent plants, and you are sure of getting the desired 
rarieties. With shading, they grow nearly as well as 
those put out in winter. It is from the joints only that 
roots can be expected to grow ; hence, in making cuttings, 
the shoot is divided just below a joint, and it is considered 
best to choose a joint between the young wood and that 
of the previous season. The cut should be quite smooth, 
for if the shoot be bruised, the returning sap will not be 
able to reach the joint in sufficient quantity to effect the 
desired end. Some plants, like the willow, currant, and 
vines, are very easy to strike from cuttings, and will 
throw out roots not only from the joints, but from every 
part of the stem, and it is not so needful to cut these off 



PROPAGATION. 65 

at a joint, but they succeed best when properly pre- 
pared. 

The cutting being taken off just below the joint per- 
fectly smooth, most of the leaves should be cut off close to 
the stem with a sharp knife, and a hole being made in the 
soil the cutting should be put in and the earth closely pressed 
to its extremity or it will never strike root. The part 
which is to send out roots must be firmly fixed in the soil 
in the case of seeds, transplanted trees, and layers, and 
this necessity exists with equal or greater force in regard 
to cuttings. When cuttings are struck in a pot they will 
more readily strike if they rest against the side or bottom 
of the pot. Cuttings may be short, containing only one 
bud, when desired to be extremely multiplied, in which 
case they should be planted horizontally in moist sand 
near the surface and watered frequently and kept under 
glass. This is also a good way to plant cuttings of great- 
er length. They may be planted obliquely with but a 
bud or two above the surface, as is usual with grapes or 
inserted perpendicularly as already directed. A new 
mode is to insert both ends of the cutting in the soil, bend- 
ing the cutting like a bow so that the bud in the centre of 
the shoot may just appear above the soil. Cuttings of 
plants that strike very readily may be struck in the open 
soil without any covering. When struck -in pots, it is 
customary to fill the pots half full with silver sand or fine 
charcoal, to prevent the stalk of the cutting from having 
too much moisture around it at the surface. Some plants 
liable to be injured by moisture are struck entirely in 
sand, as heaths, &c., but most cuttings do best with the 
lower end in earth and with sand only one or two inches 
deep at the top of the pot to keep the stem dry and pre- 
vent it from rotting. The cutting when prepared should 
be buried to the second or third joint, and two or three 



66 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

joints with a few leaves should be left above the soil. A 
few leaves to elaborate the sap are an advantage, but only 
one or two, or the evaporation will be too great. Cuttings 
of delicate plants require covering with a bell glass pressed 
closely to the earth to prevent evaporation and keep 
a regular degree of moisture about the plants, but some 
cuttings thus treated damp off and require the glass to be 
taken off and wiped daily. They should of course, be 
planted in a shady situation and as long as they look fresh 
they are doing well. Cuttings are often set in the soil of 
a hot bed or in pots sunk therein, to induce them to take 
root. Cuttings of succulent plants, as the cacti require 
to be dried for some time after they are made. The prin- 
cipal points in making cuttings to be attended to, are to cut 
off the shoot at a joint without harming the stem ; to 
select shoots with well matured buds; to fix the end which 
is to send out roots firmly in the soil ; to keep up an equable 
degree of heat and moisture ; to cut off part of the leaves 
and shade the whole to prevent evaporation without ex- 
cluding light, of which a portion is needed to stimulate the 
cutting into growth; to keep the soil moist but not too 
damp; and it is well to transplant them into small pots, 
supplied with water regularly and moderately as soon as 
they begin to grow. Cuttings of slow-growing plants are 
those most liable to fail. 

ISlips are cuttings made from the shoots which spring 
from the root and collar of the plant or little branches 
f<lipped off with a portion of the root and stem attached, 
and need no preparation except cutting of the portion of bark 
smooth and close to the shoot. They are treated like 
cuttings. Nearly all our fruit trees in this climate succeed 
extremely well, propagated from cuttings. They strike 
as readily as roses. The most successful place for striking 
cuttings is in the sandy bottom soil by the side of our 



BUDDING. 67 

small streams. The soil is often just what is required by- 
cuttings, and the supply of moisture very equal, so that 
camellias, cape jasmines and many plants rather difficult 
to strike, take very readily in such a situation. 

Budding is the art of making a hud unite to the 
stem or branch of another tree independently of its parent. 
It is a cutting with a single eye inserted in another tree 
called a stock, instead of in the ground. Budding may 
take place at any time after the buds of the new wood are 
sufficiently matured. These must be perfectly developed, 
which is seldom the case, until the shoot has temporarily 
ceased to lengthen which is indicated by the perfect for- 
mation of the terminal bud. If the buds are desired very 
early their maturity may be hastened by pinching the tops 
of the shoots. Buds in this climate are inserted at any 
time when the bark will rise from June to October. Those 
put in early will make a fine growth before autumn in 
favorable seasons. A very necessary condition to success- 
ful budding is that the bark rise freely from the stock and 
this must be in a thrifty, growing state, as when pushing 
into new growth a day or two after a fine rain. If the 
weather is too cold or the soil too dry, the bark will not 
rise. Such trees as makes their growth mostly early in 
the season, must be budded before they cease to grow. 
The young shoots when in a proper state, are cut below 
the lowest plump bud. If to be budded immediately, all 
the leaf is cut off, except a very small portion where it 
joins the stem which with the leaf stem is left for con- 
venience of inserting, and in order to attract the sap into the 
buds. If the buds are to be preserved any time, the 
whole leaf with half of the leaf stem is removed to prevent 
evaporation. If this is done as soon as they are cut, they 
may be preserved several days in a tin box, close covered 
and kept cool, if the buds are wrapped in a cloth slightly 



6S 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



dampened, when put in the box. In general the buds take 
much more kindly when a bit of the leaf is left on at the 
insertion. 

The strings used for tying are taken from bass-mats, 
which should be wet until perfectly pliable, before use. 
Better strings are made of white woollen yarn, as they 
are more elastic, and the color reflects the heat. The 
pruning and budding knives are the only implements 
required for the operation. The condition of the budding- 
knife is of importance to success. It should be made thin, 
and the edge kept perfectly smooth and keen. A figure 
of it is given in the list of instruments. 




a Longitudinal incision. 
b Transverse incision. 
r. Prepared bud. 
d Bud inserted and bred. 



Stick of buds. 



Having the implements, stocks, and buds in the proper 
condition, take the shoot in the left hand, and the budding- 
knife in the right. Insert the edge of the knife in the 
shoot, half an inch above the bud to be taken off. The 
bnd is taken off with a drawing cut, parallel with the shoot, 



BUDDING. 69 

removing the bark and the bud attached, with a slight por- 
tion of the wood beneath the bud, half an inch above, and 
three-fourths of an inch below. The English remove this 
slight portion of the wood, taking care not to injure the 
root of the bud ; but it does not succeed so well in this 
climate as if a small portion of wood be left directly under 
the bud. Select, then, a small portion of the stock free 
from branches, and make two cuts through the bark, one 
across the end of the other, in the shape of a T, as in the 
figure. Then raise the b-ark on the two edges of the per- 
pendicular cut with the smooth ivory haft of the budding- 
knife ; insert the bud gently beneath the parts raised ; cut 
off the top of the bark attached to the bud square, that it 
may fit the cut across the stock; then wind the bass 
pretty tightly about the stock ; cover every part of the 
incision, except the bud and leaf-stalk attached, which 
should remain uncovered. Do not tie it so tightly as to 
cut into the bark, but so as to exert upon it a moderate 
pressure. The bud should always be put in the north 
side of the stock, when practicable, and when not, a little 
paper cap may be tied to the stock projecting over the 
bud, so as to admit the light, but exclude the direct rays 
of the sun. The success of the operation depends on its 
being performed rapidly, and with fresh, healthy buds ; 
clean, smooth cuts; the bark rising cleanly and freely 
from the wood ; the exact fit of the bud to the incision, 
and close, secure tying, to exclude the air and water. If 
the operation is performed in moist weather, and the bark 
of the bud be joined closely to the wood of the stock, suc- 
cess is almost certain. If the stocks are in a proper state, 
the upper edges only of the slit need be raised with the 
haft, and the bud being gently pushed to its place, will 
raise the bark smoothly before it, and be more firm than 
if the bark had been entirely raised with the haft. 



70 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

This is an operation requiring mncli exactness, and the 
point where a beginner will most likely fail, is in the 
proper removal of the bud. As soon as the bud begins to 
grow, the ligature may be loosened, and should be entirely 
removed when it begins to cut into the bark. Two or 
three days after budding, the stock may be shortened to 
within ten or twelve inches of the bud, and all shoots must 
be rubbed off as they appear, except the inserted bud. 
When this has grown three or four inches, the stock is cut 
off again near the budde.d shoot. In September budding, 
this is delayed until spring. Budding is the easiest method 
of propagating apples, pears, and most other fruit-trees. 
In the case of peaches it is almost universally applied, and 
also with those roses that will not succeed readily from 
cuttings. Budding and grafting can be performed only 
upon plants of the same, or nearly related species. Thus 
a peach can be budded on a plum, as they are both stone 
fruits, and belong to the same natural group of plants, but 
no art could make the peach flourish on the apple or pear, 
as a stock. 

Grafting. — This differs from budding in its being the 
transfer of a shoot, with several buds upon it, from one 
tree to another, instead of merely employing a single bud. 
It is performed by bringing portions of two growing shoots 
together, so that the liber or soft Avood of the two may 
unite together. The shoot to be transferred is called the 
scion, and the tree which is to receive it is called the 
stock. The stocks are of all ages and sizes, but they must 
be sound and healthy. The scions employed are gen- 
erally shoots of the preceding year's growth, which may 
be cut at any time after the leaves fall, and may be buried 
in a dry soil, with the upper extremities slightly project- 
ing on the north of a wall. Those of healthy, well-ripened, 



GRAFTING WAX. 71 

close-jointed wood, should always be cnosen. Where sci- 
ons are to be sent to a distance, those of rather large size 
and close joints should be selected, enveloped in a little 
thin paper slightly dampened, and the whole covered 
tightly with oiled silk. In this way, they will go a thou- 
sand miles in perfect safety. The but and extremities of 
scions should both be rejected. The tools required are, a 
grafting-knife, saw, and chisel ; but, for whip-grafting, the 
knife only is employed. Two kinds should be used, one 
to prune and pare the stock, and the other to prepare the 
graft. 

Grafting Wax. — A composition of very good quality is 
made of four parts rosin, two of beeswax, and one of tal- 
low. Melt it all together, turn it into cold water, and work 
and pull it thoroughly until it turns whitish ; just as child- 
ren do in making molasses candy. The stiffness of the 
wax is increased or diminished by employing less or more 
of tallow. In cold weather keep the composition in warm 
water, and in warm, in cold water ; and, in putting it on, 
the hands must be slightly greased, to keep it from stick- 
ing to them. In applying it, be careful to cover the scion 
on the sides and cleft in the stock, forming a cap over the 
top, and pressed closely and tightly around the graft, so as 
to cover every crack, and carefully to exclude the air and 
water. Cloth, saturated in a composition made a little 
softer by a greater addition of tallow and beeswax, is more 
convenient than the wax itself. Take any thin, half-worn 
calico or muslin, tear it into narrow strips, roll them 
loosely into small balls, and soak them in the hot compo- 
sition until every pore is filled. When wished for use, 
it is unwound from the balls, and torn into smaller strips, 
of the proper length and breadth required by the size of 
the stock, and winding it two or three times around the 



72 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



etock and graft, secures it perfectly. Tliis is the most 
convenient way of applying wax. 

Modes and Time of Grafting. — The modes cf grafting 
most usually practised are whip and cleft grafting, and 
they are practised on the stem and branches, or the roots 
of trees. Root-grafting can he performed at any time in 
this climate, from December to March inclusive, or from 
the fall of the leaf until the buds begin to open. Stone- 
fruits of all kinds must be grafted earlier than apples, 
pears, &c., as the sap, in the case of stone-fruits, seems to 
lose all agglutinating properties after its first flow. But 
the best time for grafting, except in the root, where the 
scion will be protected by the earth covering it, is while 
the buds are swelling in the spring. If put in before that 
time, the alternate freezing and thawing to which they are 
exposed often destroys the vitality of the graft. February 
is an excellent time for all stone-fruits ; while apples, pears, 
&c., may be grafted until they blossom, if the scions are 
kept perfectly fresh, without growth. Grafting the pear 
succeeds perfectly well just before the second growth, 
early in August, if the sap is thrown into the 
graft, by rubbing off the other shoots as they 
appear. 

Whip, or Splice Grafting — (see figure). — This 
mode is applicable to all small stocks, and suc- 
ceeds best where the scion and stock are exactly 
the same size. Both stock and scion are cut off 
with a sloping cut about an inch and a half long 
on each, so as to match precisely, if of the same 
size ; or, if not, at least on one side. A tongue 
is then made by slitting the scion upward, and 
the stock downward, which is raised on each 
and fitted into the slit of the other — holding the scion 




Whip Graft 

INQ. 




GRAFTING. 73 

firmly in its place, bind it closely with the cloth cov- 
ered with the composition. It is the neatest, most ex- 
expeditious, and most successful mode of grafting, where 
the stocks are of the proper size. Stocks, three-fourths 
of an inch in diameter, or even an inch, may be grafted 
in this way, but for inch stocks cleft grafting is prefer- 
able. 

Cleft Grafting is the more common mode. It may 
be practised on large or small stocks, but for the 
latter whip-grafting only should be employed. 
The top of the stock is cut off carefully with a 
fine saw, and pared smoothly with a sharp knife. 
The stock is then split with the grafting-knife, 
and held open with the chisel of the same. A 
common knife will answer for splitting, and the 
split may be kept open for insertion with a wood- 
i^fG. en wedge or a large nail of which the point has 
been ground down to a wedge shape. Sharpen the scion one 
and a-half inches long, more or less, according to its size and 
that of the split in the stock, cutting the lower part into a 
smooth wedge. The exterior side of the scion when sharp- 
ened should be slightly thicker than the other, that it may 
be sure to make a close fit there. Let the scion have 
two or more buds, of which one should be on the wedge 
and inserted just below the top of the stock. This often 
grows when the others fail. The main point is that 
the inside bark of the scion and that of the stock should 
exactly correspond at least in one place. To effect 
this, it is usual to set the scion so that its extremity 
falls a little without the line made by the continuation 
of the stock on the side in which it is inserted. One 
or two scions are set in the stock according to its size ; 
the wedge is then withdrawn, and the whole carefully 
4 



74 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

covered with the composition so as to exclude all air and 
moisture. 

Root Grafting. — Both these modes are successfully ap- 
plied in root grafting. The best stocks for the purpose 
are seedlings which are cut off at the collar and grafts in- 
serted in one or the other of these modes, according to 
the size of the stock. If such stocks cannot be got, roots 
of thrifty trees may be employed, but are more apt to 
produce diseased trees. This can be performed at any 
leisure time during the winter, and they should be set out 
at once and covered about an inch above the point of junc- 
tion with soil. Many do not apply any composition in 
root grafting, and just cover the wound with soil; but the 
loss is more than enough to render the use of the wax advi- 
sable. Clay instead of wax is used in all kinds of graft- 
ing, but the wax is much the best. 

In grafting, as in budding, always have sharp instru- 
ments ; make the cuts clean and smooth ; bring the inner 
bark of stock and scion in close contact, by a permanent 
pressure of the stock upon its scion ; the top of the scion 
should be cut off next to a bud, and have a bud just be- 
neath the shoulder where it unites with the stock ; every 
portion of the wound should be perfectly covered with 
the composition, and the stock and scion must correspond, 
not only in their nature, but in their habits of growth. 

In-arching or Grafting hy approacli. — This mode is prac- 
tised with Camellias and Magnolias. A branch is bent and 
partly cut through, and the heel, thus formed is slipped 
into a slit made downward in the stock to receive it; the 
parts are then made to meet as exactly as possible, and 
are bound with bass strings, and covered with grafting 
clay, or with the composition. In five or six months the 
union is complete, and the in-arched plant maybe separated 
from its parent, which is done with a sharp knife so as to 



PRUNING. 75 

leave a clean cut. The head of the stock, if not removed 
before, is then cut away, and the plant is ready for removal. 
The adva7iiagesof grafling and hudding are the rapidity 
with which a valuable kind which will not grow from cut- 
tings may be propagated: trees of worthless fruit may be 
changed into more valuable varieties, seedlings can be 
brought into early bearing, foreign tender fruits may be 
rendered hardier on hardy native stocks, a kind of fruit 
may be grown in a soil not congenial to it, as the pear by 
grafting on the quince. Several varieties of fruit may be 
grown upon the same tree ; and, finally, by grafting on 
dwarf-growing stocks the trees may be so dwarfed as to 
afford many varieties ripening in succession within the 
limits of a small garden. 

Pruning. — This important operation is generally per- 
formed more at random than any other in gardening. Not 
even a twig should be removed from a tree without some 
definite object This is a work above all others requiring 
care, knowledge, and judgment, and should never be left 
to ignorant operators. Either prune your trees and plants 
yourself, or stand by and direct the manner in which it is to 
be done. " The time to prune," says an experienced culti- 
vator, " is when your knife is sharp." Pruning may take 
place at any time, but is most conveniently performed 
while the leaves are off. Our frosts are not so severe as 
to often injure the terminal bud. A good time for the 
peach is when the buds begin to swell. G-rapes may be 
pruned any time during the winter months. If delayed 
later they are apt to bleed excessively. Besides the gene- 
ral w^inter pruning, shoots may be removed at any time, if 
the tree seem to be throwing its strength in a wrong direc- 
tion. This is better accompHshed by disbudding, that is, 
removing those buds which would produce unnecessary 



76 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

shoots, or pincliing tlie extremities of those shoots which 
are making too much wood. 

The implements required in pruning are the common 
pruning knife, a small saw with very fine teeth, and a pair 
of pruning-shears with a sliding joint to make a draw cut, 
in order to divide the branch with a clean, smooth cut, and 
not to bruise it on the side next the plant. 

When a branch is pruned it should be generally cut as 
near a bud as may be without injury to the bud, or to 
speak more definitely, not more in length than the branch 
is thick should be left beyond the bud. The cut should 
slope downward from the bud, to prevent the water from 
lodging in the angle, and that the sun and air may excite 
the bark to cover the wound. 

If a long piece of branch or snag be left beyond the 
bud, it withers and decays, seriously injuring, not only 
the branch to which it is attached, but the general health 
of the tree. 

The great art is to make a clean smooth cut, so as to 
leave the bark in a healthy state to cover the wound, and 
to prune so near a bud as to leave no dead wood. Hence, 
if the branch be removed with the saw, the cut must 
be smoothed over -vWth the knife. In cutting off large 
branches the wound should be covered with grafting wax, 
or brushed over with Mr. Downing's preparation of shellac 
dissolved in alcohol, in order to exclude the air. Pruning 
is most commonly intended either to improve the form of 
the tree by directing the growth from one part to another, 
to renew the growth of stunted trees, to induce or diminish 
fruitfulness, to remove diseased or decaying branches, and in 
cases of transplanting to proportion the head to the roots. 

In pruning to improve the form of the tree, as in pleasure 
grounds, the object is to preserve its natural shape, so that 
it may be an agreeable object on the lawn, or when com- 



PRUNING. 77 

billed with others in a group. Lawn trees should never 
have the stems trimmed up to bare poles, but the branches 
should proceed from near the ground, so that when covered 
with foliage they will nearly sweep the ground, and be 
one mass of green from the base to the top. So in all 
kinds of fruit-trees the branches should be allowed to pro- 
ceed from the trunk within a foot of the ground. Such 
trunks are screened from our burning sun, and are much 
more healthy and fruitful than those with naked stems 
five or six feet high. Every tree growing naturally has 
its trunk sheltered from the sun. If it grow in the open 
ground, this is accomplished by its own branches, while in 
the forest all the trunks are sheltered by the canopy of 
foliage above. If one part of the tree is disposed to out- 
grow another, and thus destroy the balance, it may be 
shortened in winter, and the shoots pinched off the next 
summer, until the sap is thrown in the right direction 
into weaker branches that were left entire, and the balance 
is restored. When it is desired that new shoots of a branch 
should take an upright direction, prune to an inside bud. 
If you wish an open spreading top, prune to an outside 
bud of the branch. To make a stem grow straighter in 
cutting back young trees, choose the leader on opposite 
sides each year, and it will keep a straight line. 

When a tree has stopped growing, remaining stationary, 
it often happens that if the tree is cut back in winter to a 
few buds, the whole force of the sap being made to act on 
these few buds, vigorous young shoots will be produced, 
and these sending down new woody matter to the stem, 
new roots are formed, and the whole tree is renewed. 

Priming to reduce or dimmish fruitfulness. — Every- 
thing that is favorable to rapid, vigorous growth is gener- 
ally unfavorable to the immediate production of fruit. 
Hence, pruning to induce fruitfulness is performed after 



78 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

vegetation has commenced. If a tree be severely pruned 
immediately after its leaves have put forth, it is so checked 
SLS to be unable to make a vigorous growth the same 
season, and the circulation of the sap is impeded, and the 
young shoots that would have made wood branches, had 
the growth been unchecked, will become fruit spurs. 
Pinching the extremities is however the usual mode of 
pruning, to induce fruitfulness. The same result is pro- 
duced by pruning the roots, which also lessens the dimen- 
sion of the trees. 

Priming at transplanting. — At this time all bruised 
and broken roots and branches should be removed. When 
trees are taken from the ground, a greater or less portion 
of the roots are destroyed or injured, and the natural 
balance between the root and top is destroyed, and the tree 
in this condition will either die or make a slow growth. 
In England, the climate is so moist, that trees may be re- 
moved and leave nearly all the branches as they were; 
but under the hot suns and strong winds of this climate a 
vigorous shortening in is req^uisite. Trees must be pruned 
much more closely here at the period of transplanting 
than even at the north. It matters very little how closely 
you prune the top of the trees ; only have good roots and 
a single season's growth will restore the balance. Just 
after transplanting some of my own trees, which I had 
pruned sufficiently, as I thought, a cow got in while the 
fence was repairing, and browsed off several, eating all 
the young shoots. The wounds were carefully cut over 
immediately down to a bud, and the loosened roots fixed 
firmly in the soil. The trees, the ensuing summer made 
a better average growth than those which were not so 
closely shortened. Do not leave more than one or two 
buds to a branch of the previous year's growth if the tree 
is of much size at the time of transplanting. 



Tlie general principles of pruning are consisely ex- 
pressed by M. Dubreiiil, as follows : 

1. The vigor of a tree subjected to pruning, depends 
in a great measure on the equal distribution of sap in all 
itsbranches. That this equal distribution may take place — 

Pnuie the hranches of the most vigorous jparts very short, 
and those of the weak parts long. The feeble, parts being- 
pruned long, present a great number of buds and a large 
surface of leaves, which attract the sap, and produce vigor- 
ous growth ; while the vigorous parts being pruned short 
and the surface of leaves diminished, growth in those parts 
is also diminished. 

Leave a large quantity of fruit on the strong j'x^^'t and 
remove the ivhole or the greater fart from the feeble. 
All the sap which arrives in the strong part will be 
appropriated by the fruit, and the wood there v/ill make 
little growth, while the feeble parts being deprived of 
fruit, the sap will be appropriated by the growing parts 
and they will increase in size and strength. 

Bend the strong parts and keep the weak erect. The 
more erect the branches are the greater will be the flow 
of sap and consequent growth ; hence, the balance may 
be restored by bending down those disposed to make too 
much growth. 

Remove from the vigorous parts the superfluous shoots 
as early i7i the season as possible, and from the feeble 
parts as late as ^possible. The fewer the young shoots are 
in number the fewer the leaves, and the less the sap is at- 
tracted there ; but leaving these standing on the feeble parts, 
these leaves attract the sap and induce vigorous growth. 
Pinch early the soft extremities of the shoots on the 
vigorous parts, and as late as possible on the feeble parts, 
excepting always any shoots which may be too vigorous 
for their position. By this practice the flow of sap to that 



80 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

point is cliecked and turned to tlie growing points that 
liavp not been pinched. 

In training, lay in the strong slioots on the trellis early 
and leave the feehle ^arts loose as long as possible. Laying 
in the strong shoots obstructs in them the circulation and 
favors the weak parts which are at liberty. Giving also the 
feeble parts-the benefit of the light in training, and confining 
the strong parts more in the shade, restores a balance. 

2. Tht sa]) acts with greater force and produces more 
vigorous growth on a hranch short pruned than on one 
long pruned. The whole sap of the branch acting on 
two buds must produce greater development of wood 
on them than if divided among fifteen or twenty. Hence, 
to produce wood branches, we prune short, or if fruit 
branches we prune long, because slender and feeble shoots 
are more disposed to fruit. Hence, also trees that are en- 
feebled by over-bearing should for a year or two be pruned 
short. 

The sap tending always to the extremities of the shoots 
causes the terminal bud to push with greater vigor than 
the laterals. — When we wish a prolongation of a stem, 
we should prune to a vigorous wood bud, and leave 
no production that can interfere with the action of the 
sap on it. 

4. The more the sap is obstructed in its circulation, the 
more likely it will be to produce fruit buds. Sap circu- 
lating slowly is subjected to a more complete elaboration 
in the tissues of the tree, and becomes better adapted to 
form fruit buds. If we wish a branch to bear fruit, we 
can obstruct the circulation of the sap by bending or 
making incisions around the branch, or if wished to change 
a fruit into a wood-branch, raise it into a vertical position 
and prune it to two or three buds on which we concentrate 
the action of the sap and induce them to grow vigorously. 



TRAINING. 81 

5. The, leaves serve to prepare the sap absorbed by the roots 
for the nourishment of the tree and aid in the formation 
of buds on the shoots. All trees tlierefore deprived of 
their leaves, are liable to perish. Hence, the leaves 
should never be removed from a tree under the pre- 
text of aiding the growth, or ripening the fruit, as 
deprived of leaves trees cannot grow, neither can their 
fruit mature. 

6. When the buds of any shoot or branch do not 
develop before the age of two years, they can be 
forced into activity only by a very close pruning and 
in some cases, as the peach, even this will fail. Hence 
the main branches should be trimmed so as to secure a 
development of their successive sections, and so shortened 
in as not to allow the production of long naked stems, 
leaving the interior of the tree bare of shoots, and con- 
sequently unproductive. In order to induce trees to 
grow in any particular form it is not so much labor as 
continued attention that is required. A thorough pruning 
once a year will not produce the desired effect, but a 
little attention two or three times a week during the 
growing season, will be sufficient to examine every shoot 
in an acre of garden trees, and the eye is very soon trained 
so as to detect at a glance tne shoots that require attention. 

For fuller information on this subject, and indeed upon 
every one connected with the management of trees, the 
very best manual is Barry's Fruit Garden, from which a 
portion of the above is condensed. 

Training. — The principal objects of training are to 
render plants more productive of fruits and flowers than 
if left to grow voluntary, also to form screens of various 
running plants to keep any unsightly object from view. 
The points to be attended to, are to entirely cover the 
4* 



82 GARDENING FOR TilK SOUTH. 

wall or trellis, bending the branches backwards and for- 
wards so as to form numerous deposits of returning sap, 
and the full exposure of the fruit-bearing branches to the 
sun and air. The long shoots are shortened to make them 
throw out side branches, with which the trellis is covered, 
without permitting them to cross each other. Training 
flowers should be regulated by a knowledge of their 
habits of growth. It consists principally in checking over- 
luxuriance of growth and tying them to stakes or frames. 
Special directions for training the grape and pear, &c., 
will be given hereafter. 

Transplanting. — In transplanting the main points to 
be regarded are, care in taking up the plant so as to avoid 
injuring, the spongeoles of the roots ; planting firmly, so as 
to enable the plant to take a secure hold of the soil; 
reducing the top in order to prevent evaporation, and to 
restore the balance between it and the root ; shading to 
prevent the evaporation from the leaves being greater 
than the plant can support, and watering that it may be 
abundantly supplied with food in its new abode, and last 
by performing the operation in moist weather, and with 
as little delay as possible. 

The first thing is to avoid injury to the roots ; a little 
care here will often save a year's growth in a tree. The 
roots are of two kinds, the main roots which support 
the plant in the soil, and the small fibrous roots that 
supply it with nourishment. The fibres terminate in small 
pores of great delicacy which act as little sponges in im- 
bibing moisture for the use of the plant. These spongeoles 
supply the plant with food, and if injured or broken off 
the plant must supply itself with others, or perish for 
want of nourishment. These fibrous roots are the ones 
most likely to be destroyed or injured by transplanting, and 



WATERING. 83 

if so, the power of expansion and contraction possessed by 
the fibres is either entirely lost or the circulation is weakly 
and imperfectly carried on through a diseased organ. 
When a plant therefore is transplanted, the roots must be 
carefully examined and all the injured roots should be 
cut off before it is re-set, in order to force the plant to 
throw out new fibres. 

With deciduous plants, especially trees and shrubs, it is 
best to transplant when the leaves have fallen, that they 
may not suffer from the effects of evaporation. November 
and December are the best times for transplanting all 
hardy plants, as even evergreens at that period require 
less moisture and the branches are torpid, while the roots 
continue active, and fresh ones are formed during the 
winter to take the place of those injured by transplanting. 
Half-hardy and tender plants should not be taken up 
until the danger of heavy frost has passed, for when just 
removed they are much more susceptible to injury during 
severe weather. 

Shading is necessary in summer transplanting, if the 
plant retains its leaves, unless in damp weather. This is 
to diminish the evaporation, and the removal of a large 
portion of its leaves is also advisable for the same pur- 
pose. 

Wateri?ig is quite as obviously necessary in order to 
supply the spongeoles with an 'abundance of food, that 
the increased quantity imbibed by each may, in some 
degree, supply their diminished number. A single copious 
watering is better than more. 

As a general rule in transplanting, never bury the collar 
of the root. Some exceptions exist, as cabbages, balsams, 
and some other annuals, which will throw out roots above 
the collar, and in pears on the quince, which must be set 
above the place where grafted. In transplanting trees, 



84 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

the liole should be made large enough to receive the 
roots at full length. If a ball of earth can be retained so 
much the better, as it will both protect the roots and steady 
the tree. The roots should be as little exposed as possi- 
ble ; they should rest upon a bed of fine soil, and be 
covered with the same material. Two persons are needed 
in this operation, one to hold the tree, very gently shaking 
it while the other is sprinkling with his spade the fine 
earth about the roots. Care should be taken to have the 
roots set firmly in the ground, and to let the earth pene- 
trate and fill all their insterstices. When it is to be fixed 
with water, after a little earth is thrown over the roots, 
water is applied by pouring it from the open spout of a 
watering pot, held as high as a man can reach ; more earth 
is then thrown in and the water again applied. This sets 
the tree firm without staking or treading the earth, as 
usually done. Others spread the roots carefully and fill in 
as above, but make the earth firm by treading the soil 
closely about the roots as soon as they are sufficiently cov- 
ered. If the roots are made firm either with water or 
treading, and a proper proportion of the top taken off, the 
tree will hardly require staking. Formerly in transplant- 
ing trees, they were frequently reduced to bare poles, but 
now the tendency is to leave on too much top, especially 
with those who derive their ideas from standard English 
authors. In their moist climate, but very little of the top 
requires removal, but with us the evaporation is so great 
that a pretty severe pruning is required to insure success. 
Besides, if the tree is thus pruned, you have its subsequent 
growth under control, and can train it in any shape you 
like. Where trees have been long out of the ground, it is 
well to cover them entirely with earth a few days before 
replanting. This will often restore freshness after they 
begin to shrivel. Prune them very closely, taking off all 



MULCHING, 85 

dead roots, and then re-set tliem, and tliey will often suc- 
ceed when apparently almost hopelessly dead. 

In transplanting herbaceous plants, as annuals, an even- 
ing, or a damp cloudy day, or just before a shower, is the 
proper time for the operation. The earth should be first 
well dug to afford a moist situation in which the delicate 
fibres m.ay quickly establish themselves. Do not trans- 
plant immediately after a heavy rain, as the soil, if moved 
while wet, will form a crust about the plant. This opera- 
tion should always be performed in the case of choice 
young plants v/ith the trowel, removing with them a little 
ball of earth, and the plant will hardly show its change of 
situation by any check in its growth. Larger plants may 
be removed in the same way with the spade. 

Plants that are not removed with a ball, are benefited 
by grouting. Mix up a quantity of rich loam in water to 
a semi-fluid state, in which insert the roots. Plants which 
are readily transplanted, as the cabbage, tomato, &c., may 
have a hole made with a dibble, and the plant inserted, 
when the dibble is again inserted near the stem, and the 
earth pushed up close to the root. Tap-rooted plants are 
transplanted with great difficulty, and as they cannot be 
taken up with a ball, should always be grouted before they 
are replanted. Sweet potato slips, cabbage plants, &c., 
may be set out even in dry weather, in freshly moved soil, 
by making a hole in the earth, setting the plants erect 
therein, and washing in the earth with water (from the 
spout of a water-pot) about the roots, and covering them 
at the surface with dry soil to retain the moisture and 
keep the soil from baking. This should be done in the 
evening. 

Mulching. — Mulching is placing mulch or moist litter, 
of various kinds, upon the surface of the soil over the 



86 CxARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

roots of newly-planted trees and slirnbs. A little earth 
slionld be thrown on the mulch, to keep it in its place, 
and is more neat than exposing it on the surface. Mulch- 
ing prevents moisture from evaporating, and it also pre- 
vents frost from penetrating to the roots. Mulching should 
also be applied to those herbaceous plants that are impa- 
tient of heat about the roots. Stra^vberries thinly mulched, 
the crown being uncovered, are much more productive, 
and continue longer in bearing. Irish potatoes produce 
more abundantly, and are of better quality. English peas 
are thus kept much longer in bearing, and rhubarb and 
other plants, requiring a cool soil, can be more readily 
raised. Fruit trees, by having their roots mulched, are 
kept in better health and vigor. Mulching not only Avards 
off drought, but, in this way, by keeping the ground moist, 
and by the decay of the mulching substance, a good deal 
of food is conveyed to the plants. Some authors, indeed, 
think also that ground will become continually richer by 
being shaded. A supply of small, fibrous roots are thrown 
out at the surface by mulched plants, and thus is prevented 
the formation of tap-roots, which are inimical to the pro- 
duction of blossom-buds. But the great benefit of mulch- 
ing is that a steady permanency of moisture is retained, 
in spite of adverse circumstances, and without stagnation. 
In general, the coat of litter for mulching must be thin, 
that the rain may not be prevented from reaching the 
roots of plants. 

Watering. — Watering is a very essential branch of 
culture. Seed cannot vegetate, and plants cannot grow, 
without water. All the substances which the plant derives 
from the soil, as food, enter into its circulation dissolved in 
w^ater ; and even the spongeoles themselves, imless kept 
moist, lose their power of absorption. 



IRRIGATION. 87 

J. J. Thomas remarks : " From repeated experiments, 
we are induced to draw tlie conclusion that, next to ma- 
nure, nothing is more important in vegetable growth, in 
many cases, than irrigation. Practical gardeners, in 
countries more moist than our own, regard it as indis- 
pensable, and a large share of their success depends upon 
copious watering." 

Some interesting cases which have recently occurred 
may be worth stating. Two rows of raspberries stand on 
ground in every respect alike ; but one receives the drip 
of the wood-house, and the other does not. The watered 
row is fully four times as large as the other. Again, the 
berries on the bushes of the Fastolf and Franconia rasp- 
berries were at least twice as large when the soil was 
kept well moistened as afterward, when allowed to be- 
come dry. A repetition of watering again doubled the 
size. Again, a near neighbor, who cultivates strawberries 
for market, and who uses a water-cart for irrigating the 
rows, raised at the rate of 120 bushels per acre of good 
fruit on common soil by this means, and he noticed, where 
the cart was left standing over night, so that the water 
dripped gradually from it for some hours upon a portion of 
the plants, the fruit had grown to double the size the rest in 
twenty-four hours. In watering, several points are to be 
attended to. One is (except while or after transplanting), 
never saturate the soil. Frequent sprinklings are more 
beneficial. The water should be of the temperature of the 
atmosphere, or it will chill the ground and the plants. 
Water that has stood in the sun all day is best for water- 
ing plants in the open air, and in a green-house it should 
be kept standing until the chill is removed. Do not pour 
water down close to the stem and collar of the plant, as it 
will be likely to injure and rot that vital part ; apply it 



88 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

rather to the extremities of tlie roots, more or less near to 
the stem, according to the size and nature of the plant. 

The quantity of water depends upon the nature of the 
plant and its stage of growth. In spring, while in a grow- 
ing state, or while the plant is in flower, or the fruit is 
swelling, the plant requires an abundance of water. But 
when the fruit is ripening, and in winter, when the plant 
is at rest, very little is required, and much is injurious. 
Water is necessary to make seeds germinate; but much is 
very injurious to plants just coming up, as it unsettles 
their roots, and even washes them away. After the 
second pair of leaves have opened, water may be given " 
sparingly. As it begins to grow more vigorously, more 
will be required. Plants with large, broad leaves, like 
tobacco, require more water than those with small pinnate 
leaves like the acacia. Plants, also, in a strong light, 
more than those growing in the shade. 

The best time for watering plants, generally,, is the even- 
ing. This gives them all night to refresh themselves. 

It does no good to water in the heat of the day, as the 
heated atmosphere drinks up the moisture before the plant 
can imbibe it ; but, if plants are watered in the evening, 
they can drink their fill in the cool of the night. When 
small seeds are sown, they should be sprinkled, in dry 
weather, with water from a fine rosed water-pot ; and, if in 
small patches, may be shaded by a mat until they come up. 

If the ground has become very dry and hard, it should 
be loosened before the water is applied, or it will not pen- 
etrate, to be of any service to the plant. Water, early in 
spring and in autumn, may be given in the morning, or it 
might chill the plants, if the night should be cold ; so in 
the green-house, during winter, water should be given in 
the morning. Watering the leaves when the sun shines 



STIRRING THE SOIL. 89 

will m<ake them blister and become covered with brown 
spots, wherever the water touches. If watering a plant 
has been once commenced, keep on until the necessity 
ceases, or more injury than good Avill result. The use of 
the hoe should always follow the water-pot, as soon as the 
ground gets dry. 

The best water to use in the garden is rain-water caught 
in open cisterns. It abounds in ammonia and fertilizing 
gases. If spring or well-water must be used, a very little 
guano, say one pound (or two pounds of fowl-manure) to 
twenty gallons of water, will give it proper fertilizing 
properties. Let it remain covered in the sun one or two 
days before use. 

Cultivation w^ith the Hoe. — If the ground be not of- 
ten moved, it becomes so hard that the roots cannot penetrate 
it to get their proper food. The rains flow off the surface, 
without sinking into and moistening the soil, and the bene- 
ficial influence of the atmosphere is excluded. A soil well 
hoed has a new surface continually ready to absorb the 
fertilizing gases of the atmosphere, and the manures ap- 
plied are more thoroughly intermingled. 

" If I had to preach a sermon on horticulture," says 
Downing, " I should take this for my text ; Stir the soil." 
The surface of the soil cannot be too frequently stirred. 
As soon as the plants are well above ground, they should 
be thinned out so as not to interfere with each other's 
growth ; say to an inch in the drills. At the same time, 
the soil may be loosened a little about them, so as to break 
any crust that may have formed, without injury to the 
young plants, and the weeds may be removed. 

A little later, stir the soil more deeply with a narrow 
hoe, taking care not to cover the young plants. Every 
weed should be cut down or pulled up, no matter how 



90 GARDKNIKG FOR THE SOUTH. 

small. As the plants grow larger, the hoe may be used 
more fearlessly, and thinning should also take place, from 
time to time, as the danger diminishes of their being de- 
stroyed by insects. • It is not enough to keep the weeds 
down ; digging deeply among the plants admits the atmos- 
phere, with it fertilizing gases, and actually manures the 
young plants. Many persons do not like to use the hoe 
in dry weather, for fear the plants will suffer for want of 
moisture. But if the earth be kept loose, and in fine tilth, 
the air that enters into its pores will leave a precious de- 
posit of moisture in the soil. Notice a plat of fresh dug 
ground, some dewy morning during a drought, how moist 
is the surface, and see how hard and dry is the unstirred 
plot near by ! The air has watered the fresh dug soil 
more effectually than you could do ; and moisture, too, 
comes up by capillary attraction from the subsoil, and 
abundantly, too, if the ground was deeply trenched. " A 
man will raise more moisture," says Oobbett, " with the 
hoe and spade in a day, than he can pour on the earth out 
of a watering-pot in a month." The deposit of moisture on 
the outside of a pitcher of cold water every one has no- 
ticed. As the air in contact with the cold surface of the 
pitcher is robbed of its moisture, which is condensed upon 
the surface of the pitcher, so the fresh stirred earth con- 
denses upon its surface the moisture of the air, and con- 
veys it to the roots of the thirsty plants. If the ground 
be suffered to become close and compact, the cool surface 
exposed to the air for the reception of moisture is smaller, 
and what is deposited does not enter into the earth far 
enough to be appropriated ; but if the soil be loose and 
porous, the air enters more deeply, and deposits its moist- 
ure beneath the surface. Almost any soil in which a seed 
may be made to germinate will, by continual hoeing, pro- 



PROTECTION FROM FROST. 91 

duce a crop. Do not be afraid of cutting off the roots of 
your plants and killing- them by digging. In very dry 
weather you need hoe but one side of your plants the same 
day. For every fibre you cut off, two fresh ones will 
start, and the next day or two after you may hoe the 
other side of the row with safety. 

The ground should be hoed deeply; corn, unless it is 
'ploughed between, will produce hardly anything, and the 
great secret of raising good cabbage is deep digging be- 
tween them, while the dew is on. '* The best protection," 
says Cobbett, " against frequent droughts is frequent 
digging." Above all, cut up every weed that appears. 
" One year's seeding makes seven years' weeding." The 
only use of weeds is to make a necessity of tilling the 
ground more frequently. Weeds will come up in spite of 
all our care, but much can be done to prevent them. 
Their seeds are brought in with the manure. On this 
account guano is preferable to any other application, as it 
is perfectly clear of them. They are brought in also by 
the wind, and they are dug up from beneath and start 
into vegetation at once, though they have been torpid for 
years. As soon as one appears above the ground, dig it 
up at once. If they have already gone to seed, mix the 
salt and lime mixture with them, and their vegetating 
power will be destroyed, and these robbers of the soil con- 
verted into valuable fertilizers. 

Protection from Frost. — Camellias and many half- 
hardy plants may be protected by laying straw and litter 
about the roots, as the severest frost will penetrate but a 
few inches. Very few half-hardy plants will be seriously 
injured if their roots are covered a few inches deep with 
straw or leaves. Garden pots, empty boxes, barrels, &c., 



92 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

are all useful. If any of these are used, holes should be 
left in the top that the dampness may not accumulate un- 
derneath, which might he more injurious than the frost. 
Common tumblers are used in protecting small plants, to 
be raised whenever much moisture accumulates. 

Wooden frames covered with oiled paper are very use- 
ful in protecting low plants. Vine-shields are also em- 
ployed for this purpose during the winter months. A 
very slight covering over the top will protect from frost, 
even though the sides are exposed, but the top should 
never be left exposed to perpendicular frost. All tender 
plants will survive the winter better in a northern expo- 
sure, where the changes of atmosphere are more gradual, 
than if subjected to alternate freezings and thaAvings sud- 
denly, as they are in warm exposures. 

Fruit trees while in blossom or with the young fruit 
just formed are most easily protected from frost by having 
a quantity of chips, dried tan, or trash of any description, 
at hand. If the prospect of frost is pretty certain, small 
fires are built in various parts of the garden on the wind- 
ward side, and when burning well are covered with damp 
trash of various kinds to create a great smoke, these are 
kept up all night, and the protection from the clouds of 
warm smoke rising from the garden is quite sufficient to 
ward off all danger of frost. A large fruit garden may be 
thus protected at an expense of less than a dollar for fuel 
and one hand to watch the fires and keep them up all 
night, and the pleasure and profit of a fine crop of fi-uit 
when it is generally cut off is a great remuneration for the 
small expense incurred. 

Number of Plants required to an Acre. — The 
following table, showing the number of plants required 
for an acre, is often of great convenience in planting 
gardens and orchards : 



DESTKUCTION OF VERMIN. 93 



Distance 


No. of 


Distance. 


No. of 


apart. 


Plants. 


apart. 


Plants. 


1 foot 


43,560 


10 feet 


435 


U " 


19,360 


11 " 


360 


2 feet 


10,890 


12 " 


302 


2\ " 


6,969 


13 '• 


257 


3 " 


4,840 


14 *' 


222 


3i « 


3,556 


15 " 


193 


4 " 


2,722 


16 " 


170 


4§" 


2,232 


17 " 


150 


5 " 


1,742 


18 " 


134 


6 " 


1,210 


19 " 


122 


7 " 


889 


20 " 


108 


8 " 


680 


25 " 


69 


9 ' 


537 


30 '' 


49 



Destruction of Vermin. — Insects are mucli more 
destructive to the vegetable kingdom in warm climates. 
These minute destroyers attack almost every cultivated 
plant, of which no portion escapes their ravages. One 
devours its tender leaf as it issues from the ground, an- 
other preys upon the root and the plant perishes ; another 
burrows into the stem, boring it in every direction until it 
is broken off by the wind. The caterpillar preys upon 
the leaves when it gets more mature, while the black 
grub cuts off the young plant just as it is shooting into 
growth. Some feed upon the flowers, while others devour 
the matured fruit or seed. But though we cannot entirely 
check, we can materially diminish their ravages. 

During autumn, let the garden be sown with salt at the 
rate of six or eight bushels per acre and many insects will 
disappear. Even arsenic has been proposed to be min- 
gled with the manure and incorporated with it in the soil 
at the rate of some fifty pounds to an ordinary garden, 
but this is a substance too dangerous. "In the cold 
freezing weather of winter let the soil be frequently turned 
over and exposed to frost, the oftener the better. 



94: GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

" Erect a post in the centre of the garden, on which nail 
a platform of planks some thirty inches square, which 
cover with sand ; on this build nightly a nre of fat light- 
wood for some weeks, from the time that moths, millers, 
and butterflies begin to infest the garden. Large num- 
bers will fly into the fire and be consumed.'-* 

Hang up common porter bottles, though wide-mouthed 
bottles are preferable, duriug the same season, with a few 
spoonfuls of sweetened water or molasses and vinegar in 
them to be renewed every second evening, and hundreds 
of moths that would have been the parents of a new race 
of destroyers will be caught. This is the most prom- 
ising mode of waging war also upon the melon-worm as 
well as the corn and boll-worm, and many other insects. 
For filling the bottles, a better preparation still is a pint 
of water to half a pint of molasses, the water having as 
much cobalt dissolved in it as it will take up before mixing 
with the molasses. Put a wineglassful to each bottle and 
empty once or twice a week. 

Mr. Downing mentions an acquaintance who, using the 
molasses and water only one season, caught and extermi- 
nated three bushels of insects in this manner, and preserved 
his garden almost free from them. Mr. Robinson, of New 
Haven, caught over a peck in one night. Keep the ground 
rich and sow healthy seed ; cultivate thoroughly, and the 
crop will soon be beyond their ravages. After the crops 
are so far advanced that fowls will not do much injury by 
scratching, keep them in the garden during the summer, 
and the cabbage caterpillars and many other worms will 
be exterminated. Birds are valuable assistants in the 
work of destruction. Toads live almost entirely upon 
insects, and do no injury to vegetables. -Bonfires of brush 

* R. B. Southern Cultivator, Nov. 1855. 



VERMIN". 95 

just after dark (where light wood is not convenient) will 
attract and destroy immense numbers of moths and bee- 
tles. Rolling the surface smooth when planted, destroys 
the hiding places of many insects, and renders them less 
destructive. Crush the beetle, the grub, or the leaf roller 
under your foot, and you destroy a thousand enemies at 
once, by j^reventing reproduction. 

When the plants are attacked, various remedies are re- 
q^uired. 

Try the camphor preparation of R. B. in the Southern 
Cultivator. Put into a barrel of water a quarter of a 
pound of camphor, in pieces the size of a hickory nut, fill 
with water and let it stand a day, and with this water your 
plants, and fill the barrel for the next watering. The cam- 
phor is slowly absorbed, and will last a long time. If the 
camphor water is too weak, add to a barrel of water a cup- 
ful or more of strong lye, and more will dissolve, ^dd also 
a pound of cheap cape aloes to a gallon of lye (or water in 
which a pound of saleratus or potash has been dissolved) ; 
add a pint of this to a barrel of water, and use as the 
camphor Avater. Camphor and aloes (especially the for- 
mer) are offensive to most insects. 

• Try also sprinkling the plants with ashes, air-slaked 
lime, charcoal dust impregnated with the odor of oil tur- 
pentine, soot, sulphur, or better still, Scotch snuff sifted on 
the plants, by placing it in a tin cup, with the mouth cov- 
ered with gauze, and shaking it when inverted over the 
plants. Try also to drive away the insects. 

Watering them and the plants with an infusion of to- 
bacco, or China berries, soapsuds, solutions of guano, or 
whale oil soap, when the latter can be obtained. Fumigat- 
ing with sulphur and tobacco is very efficient. But tobacco 
water is the great remedy. Watering with guano water 



96 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

is very satisfactory, as it is repulsive to most insects, and 
hastens the growth of the plants. 

The following are some of the most troublesome of these 
pests : 

Aphides, or plant lice, some species of which peculiar to 
itself are found on almost every plant. They multiply with 
astonishing rapidity. They are best destroyed by tobacco 
juice. Steep the leaves until the solution is of a dark 
brown color, and mix with an equal quantity of strong 
soapsuds; dip the affected branch in the liquid, or sprin- 
kle it liberally over the affected parts. Repeat as often as 
one makes its appearance. The green aphis, which is 
very injurious to rose bushes and other plants, may be 
thus destroyed. 

The Woolly Aphis is found mostly upon the apple tree. 
It is a small dark-colored insect, covered with a white 
woolly substance that conceals its body. Destroy the first 
one tha? makes it appearance. Scrape the bark smooth 
if rough, wash the tree, and fill every crevice with Har- 
ris's Composition : Two parts soft-soap and eight of 
water, thickened with lime to the consistency of thick 
whitewash, or wash with a solution of two pounds potash 
to seven quarts of water. If the roots are affected, they 
must also be washed, and fresh earth put about them. The 
best application to the roots is strong tobacco-water poured 
about them after removing the surface soil. 

The Scaly Aphis, a bark louse, infests the bark of the 
apple tree. They are of a dark brown color like the bark. 
Tobacco-water and soapsuds applied to them the last of 
May, while they are young, will destroy them. 

Ariis may be killed by pouring boiling water into their 
hillocks ; or may be caught in the wide-mouthed bottles 
containing sweetened water, which are general extermina- 
tors of moths, insects, and beetles of all kinds. 



INSECTS. 97 

The Ap'ple Moth deposits its eggs in the eye of the 
young fruit into which the gru, when hatched eats its 
way, causing the fruit to drop prematurely. A similar 
insect attacks the peach. The only remedy is to allow 
swine to pick up the fallen fruit, or do it by hand as 
soon as they fall, and destroy them. Their thin paper-like 
cocoons may be found in the crevices of the trees in 
February and March, and should be destroyed. 

The Apple-tree Borer is a grub produced by a beetle 
which deposits its eggs in the bark of the apple and quince 
near the ground. The e^^ becomes a whitish grub which 
eats into the tree in all directions, often completely girdling 
it. Insert a wire into the holes and kill them. A mound 
of ashes or lime rubbish raised about the base of the trunk 
in the spring will prevent the beetles from depositing their 
eggs in the soft bark. This should be removed late in 
summer when the danger is over and spread for manure. 
Hot water might be as effectual as in the case of the 
Peach borer, but it may be injurious to the tree. 

The Peach-tree Borer deposits its eggs at the base of the 
trunk on the soft bark ; when hatched they bore their way 
under the bark, sometimes proceeding upv/ards along the 
trunk, at other times downward into the root. Its 

presence is made known by the effusion of gum ; as it does 
not penetrate the wood, it is easily traced by its holes 
under the bark. Haul away the earth from the roots ; clean 
away the gum ; cut out and destroy the grub with a knife, 
or pour scalding water into his haunts from the spout of a 
tea-kettle, Avhich will kill the grub without injury to the 
tree. Put a small mound of ashes or slacked lime around 
the base of the trunk, to be scattered over the ground in 
the fall, as they are an excellent dressing for the trees. 
Peach trees should be carefully examined every autumn 
and spring. The hot water application is desirable as it 



98 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

promotes the health of the tree, ahnost always throwing 
the most feeble into vigorous growth. 

The Grain-vine Borer attacks grape-vines, except the 
Scuppernong, in the same way as the peach-tree borer 
injures peach trees, and the remedies are the same. Both 
these insects are of the genus ^geria. 

The Melon Wcrm is noticed under the article. Melon. 
The most hopeful remedy is to destroy the moths before 
laying their eggs by the light wood fires, or by catching 
them in the bottles ; and whether this will prove successful 
or not is to be ascertained. 

Caterpillars. — There are many varieties destructive to 
the foliage of fruit and ornamental trees. One most 
loathsome of these has caused the beautiful Catalpa to be 
banished from our pleasure-grounds. The one on the 
apple tree is the tent caterpillar, of which the moth lays 
its eggs in large rings on the branches of trees which are 
hatched the ensuing spring. If any of these clusters of 
eggs are found at pruning time, cut them off and burn 
them. If any caterpillars appear in the spring, they may 
be removed by a round bush fastened to a pole, which is 
put into the nest, and with a few turns web and all is re- 
moved to be crushed by the foot. Some kinds do not seem 
put to any inconvenience by tlie application of strong 
soapsuds, and on these the tobacco and soap preparation 
may be applied. They may be brushed off into this 
liquid. If nothing else will do, hand picking and scalding 
water must be resorted to. 

The Cherry and Pear SlvgsRre small slimy dark-brown 
slugs that appear in summer devouring the leaves of the 
pear and cherry. A sprinkling with the soap and tobacco 
preparation weakened, applied two or three times, or 
throwing slacked lime or ashes over them will destroy 
them. The slugs that are injurious to garden vegetables 



INSECTS. 99 

are caught by placing pieces of cabbage and turnip leaves 
in their way, on which they will be found collected, 
and may be thrown into the fire. 

Cut-worm, or black grub. There are several varieties 
of these, difiering somewhat in color — the progeny of dif- 
ferent beetles. The common variety is ash-colored with 
a dark stripe on the back. When full-grown they are an 
inch and a-half long and the size of a large quill. They 
hide in the ground in hot sunny days, but come out at night 
to eat of the tender stems of young plants. They are 
much more destructive in warm, wet seasons. The only 
remedy when they once appear is to examine the beds 
every morning, when by digging near the plants cut off 
you will generally find the destroyer. Choice plants may 
be transplanted in trenches, as directed under the article 
Cabbage, or protected by wrapping their stems in paper 
when transplanted. Salt or lime will not kill them in the 
spring, but if salt be applied in the fall broadcast they 
do not appear the ensuing summer. 

I have found it so one year at least in adjacent gardens ; 
the one salted was free from the grub, while in the other 
it was very destructive. 

Cucumber and Squash Bugs resemble each other except 
in color. If very troublesome, the plants may be sown 
under boxes covered with millinet which will prevent 
access to the plants. 

The Curculio. — This is a small brownish beetle about 
a quarter of an inch long, and deposits its ^^^ in a 
semi-circular incision that it makes in stone fruit, which 
hatches and eats its way into the young fruit, causing it to 
fall prematurely. It attacks all stone fruits, but especially 
apricots, nectarines and plums. It is not so destructive 
in clayey or hard soils. The remedies that have hitherto 
proved successful, are to pave the ground so that the grub 



100 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

cannot enter it to complete his transformation ; besides this, 
picking up the fruit as fast as it drops before the worm 
can enter the earth has been found beneficial; likewise 
jarring the tree (by striking sharply with a mallet on the 
stump of a limb removed for the purpose) as soon as the 
fruit is the size of a pea, and collecting the insects on a 
white sheet as they fall, and destroying them; as the in- 
sects are torpid in the morning, that is the best time for 
the operation, which should be kept up until the fruit 
begins to ripen. Trees planted near piles of fresh horse 
manure are said to be free from the insects, they being 
repelled by the ammoniacal gas. But the best of all 
methods is to plant all stone fruits in an enclosure by 
themselves in which pigs and poultry are admitted ; these 
will collect the fruit as fast as it falls, and tread the 
ground firmly together, so that it is not easy for the insects 
to enter it. None of these methods will be fully efi'ectual 
if there are neglected trees near by from which the cur- 
culio may emigrate. The most rdiable of them is jarring 
the trees, and destroying the insects daily; the next is 
giving access to a large flock of chickens which destroying 
the perfect insect are a much more efficient remedy than 
the pigs alone. 

The Corn Worm (Heliothes) comes from the egg of a yel- 
lowish moth deposited in June, and after in the silk or 
apex of the ears of Indian Corn while in the milk. The 
caterpillar, at first scarcely visible, increases rapidly, and, 
sheltered by the husk, feeds voraciously upon the tender 
grains at the end of the cob. It is thought to be identical 
with the boll-worm of the cotton plant. Injury may 
probably be warded ofi" by catching the first brood of 
moths in the wide-mouth bottles before mentioned, or by 
Col. Sorsbey's plan with the moth of the boll-worm. 
He mixed four parts vinegar to one of molasses and put 



INSECTS. 101 

a gill of the mixture upon a common dinner plate which 
was set on a board six inches square fastened to a stake in 
height a little above the plants. The next morning from 
eighteen to thirty-five of the insects were found in each plate. 
Following it up a few days, the crop ceased to be infested. 
A very few plates would be sufficient, as the odor of the 
mixture attracts the insects from a great distance and 
alighting on it in their eagerness to feed its adhesive na- 
ture prevents escape. The light wood fires would also 
probably serve the same purpose. 

Where the worm has eaten the ear a secure retreat is 
afforded to many other insects, and as the dampness from 
the exuded sap favors the groAvth of mould, the remainder 
of the ear is thus destroyed. — [Pat. OJ. Rep., 1854.) 

Frocris Americana. — The caterpillars of the American 
Procris are very destructive to the foliage of grape-vines, 
late in the season, injuring it as if scorched by fire. The 
larvse are found in companies of several together under- 
neath the leaves, feeding side by side upon the substance, 
leaving only the stalk and large ribs untouched. The 
eggs are deposited in clusters, and the caterpillars are 
from five to six tenths of an inch in length, covered with 
short hairs, which are longer on the second and last seg- 
ments ; they are of a yellow color, spotted with distinct 
black spots, and attain their growth in twelve or fourteen 
days. There are several broods in a season. The cocoons 
are whitish, oblong, oval and flattened, with a chestnut 
brown chrysalis. The moths measure nearly an inch 
across the expanded wings, and are of a blue black color 
except the collar, which is orange. Destroy the caterpillars, 
by syringing the infested leaves with whale oil soap in 
solution, and crush by trampling those that fall to the 
ground ; or by picking off the infested leaves by hand, and 



102 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

burning tliem when not too numerous. (Pat. Off. Report, 
1854.) 

Desmia MacuJalis. — This insect first appeared on my 
own vines last summer, 1855, and is very destructive to 
the foliage. The caterpillar is nearly an inch long, of a 
green color, with a black semi-circle on the first, and two 
more black spots on the second segment of the body. It 
is very lively, and when disturbed, backs out of its shelter 
(made first by rolling a leaf and then fastening the outer 
edge with silk) and suspends itself from the leaf. The 
moth measures about an inch across the wings; the 
female, which it is most important to recognize, has two 
distinct white spots on a black ground on each upper and 
under wing, two white bands around the abdomen, and a 
white border around each wing, with a line of black 
through the centre. Those moths are very troublesome 
the latter part of summer, and should be destroyed by 
plucking and trampling on each infected leaf, which may 
be easily recognized by its rolled-up appearance. (See Fat. 
Off. Report, 1854 ) 

The Vine-hojpper is a small insect, very destructive to 
the foliage of the grape vine. The insect in its first stage 
is unprovided with wings, and sucks the sap or juice of the 
leaves with its beak, causing them to turn yellow, assuming 
a blotched or scorched appearance. The outer skin is cast 
several times before the insect attains its full size, which it 
does about the end of July; meanwhile it has been con- 
stantly feeding upon and draining the sap from the leaves 
of the plant. When fully grown, it is provided with four 
wings, and jumps with great activity if disturbed, or takes 
to flight in such multitudes as to annoy people passing. 
It has been asserted that these insects pass the winter 
under leaves, roots, and tufts of grass, and in the spring 



INSECTS. 103 

crawl out to deposit their eggs upon the vines, and then 
die. Fumigation with tabacco under a movable tent is 
the only known remedy, but in vineyards this is hardly 
practicable. (Fat. Off. Rejport.J 

Rose Bugs are troublesome to rose bushes and fruit trees 
in sandy soils. They lay their eggs in the earth, which hatch 
about the time roses bloom. They are sluggish things 
and the best way is to strike them off the bushes upon 
cloths and empty them into hot water. 

The Turnip Fly is a general name for several insects 
which attack the turnip, cabbage, &c., devouring the seed 
leaves. These are not troublesome in ground manured 
by yarding cattle and sheep upon them. The best pre- 
ventive is to use guano or any other manure so abounding 
in phosphates that the turnips are soon out of reach — 
dusting the plants with lime, soot ashes, &c., or keeping 
broods of chickens in the turnip patch will be found 
beneficial. 

Mice may be caught in traps, or poisoned with arsenic ; 
but the latter is dangerous if fowls or children have access 
to the garden. 

Moles are often very troublesome in undermining beds 
of cuttings or young plants in search of worms and insects. 
They may be caught in various traps sold for the purpose, 
but by putting tarred sticks in their burrows they will be 
driven from them. Salting the soil is fatal to many insects 
that are the food of the mole. 

Hares and Rabbits are very destructive to trees and 
garden vegetables in all country places, and even in towns 
we do not escape, but can be repelled by a tight board 
fence, or a close hedge of the Macartney rose. Choice 
trees can be bound up in broom straw during the winter. 



104 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 

The principal implements employed in gardening are 
the following : 

1. Implements for Preparing and Operating upon 
THE Soil. 

Subsoil Plough. — This is of great service in large gar- 
dens, answering as a tolerable substitute for the spade in 
trenching for orchards and market gardens, doing the 
work more cheaply and expeditiously, but not so well. 
It requires a powerful team to manage it. 

The one-horse Turning Plough is very efficient in deeply 
stirring the soil among plantations of trees and the 
larger garden crops. The whiffletrees should be short 
that the trees and plants may not be injured. A strong 
animal is required, and the plough must not come too near 
the trees and plants. 

The Cultivator supersedes in a great degree in market 
gardens the necessity of hand-hoeing among the main 
crops. By passing it over once a week between the rows, 
all the hoeing required is a narrow strip of a few inches in 
the row. 



THE WHEELBARROW. 



The Wheelbarrow. — This is indispensable in the smallest 
garden. In carrying manures, applying composts, moving 



IMPLEMENTS. 105 

soils, and gathering crops, it is of constant service. The 
handles and frame should be of tough wood, but the sides 
and bottom may be of poplar or any light material. 




GARDE\ ROLLER, 



The Garden Roller. — This consists of two cast iron 
sections one foot in width and twenty inches in diameter, 
with an iron handle. Weights can be attached to the in- 
side to make it heavier if desired. Being made in two 
sections the earth is not scraped up while turning around. 
It is very useful in keeping grass lawns smooth and vel- 
vety, and is valuable to follow the putting in of all seeds 
in sandy soils. Lawns should be rolled when the ground 
is moderately soft with rain, after each mowing. A toler- 
able substitute, for a small plot of grass, is a piece of plank 
5* 



106 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



two inches thick, eighteen inches long and ten wide, with 
a handle inserted perpendicularly in the centre. With 
this the lawn should be beat w^hen the turf is set to a per- 
fect level. This is quite as effectual a mode of smoothing 
a lawn, but much more time and labor are required than 
by the use of the roller 

Tilt Fick. — This is indispensable in trenching hard clay 
subsoils in which the spade cannot penetrate. It consists 
of a wooden handle inserted in a head composed of two 
iron levers both pointed Avith steel, one of which should 
come to a point and the other made about two inches 
wide for cutting roots or any obstructions. 




The Spade. — The best are Ames', cast steel. A large 
one is required for lifting trees, trenching, &c., but a 
lighter one is convenient for common purposes. 





Shovels are necessary for loading and spreading composts 



IMPLEMENTS. 



107 



and manures. The round pointed one is most convenient 
for garden purposes. 




MANURE FORKS. 



Manure Forks are made with from four to eight tines. 
The four-tined ones cut out of a solid plate are the best. 
They are indispensable for moving fresh long manures 
with celerity and ease. A three-tined fork made like the 
above with stout tines an inch wide is called a forked 
spade. It is used like the spade for trenching heavy soils, 
to loosen the earth and digging in manure in asparagus 
beds or about trees without injury to or cutting the roots, 
and is an exceedingly convenient implement. 

The Croivlmr is used in the garden, mostly for setting 
poles for climbers, pea brush or other fixtures for training 
plants and for removing rocks and other obstructions. 





Uoes. — These are of constant use in gardening. They 
are of two kinds ; the draw-hoe and thrust-hoe, but the 
draw-hoe is the most convenient. The most useful are 
the square draw-hoes made of a cast steel plate six inches 
long and four wide, 



108 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 





TRUNGULAB DRAW-HOE. 



The Triangular Draw-Hoe for digging furrows, for sow- 
ings seeds, and the narrow semi-circular or narrow square 
turnip hoes with sharp edges for scraping the surface and 
killing weeds. For digging deeply, a four pronged hoe, 
sold at the North as a potato digger, is unequalled in the 
facility with which the earth may be easily and thoroughly 
worked. The tines should be stout and made of the 
best cast-steel. The handles of all hoes should be smooth 
and light, and there should be no extra weight about the 
implement. 

T/ie Garden Rake is indispensable for levelling and finely 
pulverizing the ground preparatory to sowing small seeds 
after it has been spaded or hoed. The best are those 
hammered out of a solid bar of steel as they never lose 
their teeth or get out of order. 




PRILL RAKE. 



Drill Rakes are made of wood, and the teeth placed at 
a greater or less distance for sowing different seeds. In 
using, the first drill is guided by stretching a line, and 
afterwards the first tooth is kept in the drill last made to 



IMPLEMENTS. 



109 



guide, and tlms all the rows in a long bed can be made 
perfectly parallel. Several different sizes are required. 

The Dibble is very convenient in transplanting cabbages 
and all those plants that readily succeed when moved. 




THE TROWET. 



The Trowel is a much better implement for removing 
flowers and other tender plants, as they can be taken up 
with a ball of earth attached without injury to the plants. 
Screens for sifting earth, for filling flower-pots or covering 
small seeds, are best made with rather stout wires and the 
meshes ^ of an inch in diameter. 

The Garden Reel and Line. — The line 
should be a good hemp cord ^ of an inch 
in diameter. The axis of the reel is 
fastened in the earth. This is indispen- 
sable where neatness and regularity are 
desired in the rows and plats. It can 
be easily and quickly wound up when 
not in use. 




GARDEN REEL AND LINF. 



2. Cutting Implements, for Operating on Plants. 




PRUNING 8AW. 



The Pruning- Saw is made with fine teeth, from four- 
teen to eighteen inches long, and a hooked handle, for 
hanging upon a limb, while in the tree. It is also used in 
cutting off large stocks for grafting. 



110 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 




The Bow- Saw, whicli has a very narrow blade, stiffened 
with an arched back, the blade of which can be made 
more or less stiff, by tightening the screw on which the 
back turns, is the best for gardening purposes, and indis- 
pensable for sawing off stocks horizontally, near the ground. 
A small tenon saw is very convenient for grafting purposes. 




HAND PKCNLVG-SITEARS. 

Hand Pruning- SJiears. — Those with a sliding centre are 
most desirable, as with them a draw-cut can be made as 
smooth as with a knife. Small sizes are made for ladies, 
and very highly finished. They are useful in clipping 
hedges, shortening in peach trees, and cutting out small 
dead branches. One man, with them, can do as much as 
four with a pruning-knife. 

Pole Pruning- Shears are fastened to a long handle, and 
worked with a cord passing over a pulley. They are used 
for removing dead branches, or those infested with insects, 
from high trees. Branches an inch in diameter can be cut off 
with this instrument. They are best with a sliding centre. 

Note.— Many of these implements are from the well known manufacturer, Mr. 
R. L. Allen, 189 Water street, New York. 



IMPLEMENTS. 



Ill 




PRUXLVG-sasSORS. 



Pruning- Scissors are also made with a sliding centre 
and spring. They cut as smoothly as a pruning-knife, 
and are very convenient for ladies' use in pruning rose- 
bushes. 




TIN-E-saSSORS. 



Vine- Scissors are used in thinning grapes, when they 
are too crowded in the bunches. 




PRrXING-KXrFT. 



Pruning- Knife. — Those of English make are the best. 
One of moderate size, about four inches long, is most con- 
venient for the pocket. Another, of larger size, for heavy 
work, is desirable. 




BrDDIXG -KNIFE. 



The Budding- Knife has a broad, flat blade, the edge 
of which is rounded outwards, to make the incision in the 



112 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

bark more readily. It has an ivory haft, thin and smooth 
at the end, for raising the bark. 



1/ m ^ 



GRAFnXG-TOOL. 



The Grafting- Tool is employed in cleft-grafting large 
stocks. It is used for splitting the stock, and has a sharp 
edge, curved inwards, to cut the bark in splitting. The 
wedge part is used to keep the stock open while the 
scions are inserted. 




LAWN-SCYTHE. 



The Lawn- Scythe, with snath, is very necessary to keep 
the grass smooth shaven, and of that soft green, velvety 
appearance, so desirable. Those made of a thin plate of 
steel, welded to an iron back, are light and durable, and 
may be whet until the blade is within half an inch of the 
back, without grinding. 

3. — Instruments of Designating, Watering, &c. 

Tallies. — Those for common use, to last a single season, 
are most readily prepared from the white pine of which 
most dry-goods boxes are made. The wood is very soft. 



IMPLEMENTS. 



113 



For marking trees or grafts, a small tally, three-quarters 
of an incli wide by three inches long, notched at one end 
for attaching the wire, is commonly used. The name of 
the variety should be marked on it with a lead pencil, 
immediately after the tally has been brushed over with a 
thin coat of white lead. If marked while the paint is wet, 
it can be read as long as the tally lasts ; otherwise it will 
soon be effaced. 

Another kind is made, about six or eight inches long by 
an inch wide, of the same material, and marked in the 
same manner, to be stuck in the beds of flowers and veg- 
etables, to mark the different varieties. Zinc labels will 
last for ever. They may be cut in any desired shape out 
of sheet zinc. Write on it with an ink made of two parts 
fine verdigris, two sal ammoniac, one lampblack. After 
this is made fine in a mortar, add twenty parts water ; 
bottle and shake it occasionally some days before using. 
It will keep for years, if tliie bottle is kept cork down- 
ward, to prevent the ammonia from escaping. The labels 
should be fastened to the limbs with a stout wire. 




FOIDmG-I^ADDEBS. 



Folding-Ladders are very convenient in gathering fruit. 
The rounds are fastened by pivots at the ends on which 
they turn, and when the ladder is folded up, they lie in 
grooves made in the side-pieces. 



114 



GARDENING FOR THP: SOUTH. 



The Standing-Ladder is also indispensable in the fruit 
garden. It should be made light, with flat 
steps. The supports are two sticks of light 
timber fixed to the top, with hooks and 
straj)s, to be expanded or contracted at 
pleasure. Thej should be six or eight feet 
high. 

The Orchardisf s Hook is a light rod with 
a hook at the end, with a movable piece of 
wood which slides upon the rod. The 
branches to be gathered from are brought near by the 
hooked end, and returned in place by hooking the sliding- 
piece into another branch. 




STANDING LADDER. 



HAND SYRINGK. 



Hand Syringes are useful in watering plants in gardens 
or in pots. They will also be found of use, occasionally, 
in washing the foliage of plants. They should be made of 
copper, with several caps of greater or less fineness. There 
should also be an inverted or gooseneck cap, not shown in 
the cut, for washing the under-side of leaves. Insects may 
be expelled from plants by using an infusion of tobacco or 
sulphur water for sprinkling them. They are made of 
any desired size, up to a gallon. 

Watering-Pots are well known implements, very neces- 
sary in a garden. The best are of copper. There should 
be two or three roses of difi'erent fineness. Hang them so 
the water can run out, when not in use. Tin ones should 
be painted occasionally, to prevent rusting. 

Vine- Shields are excellent for protecting young plants 




IMPLEMENTS. 115 

from the cucumber and squash 
bugs. The top may be covered 
with millinet. They should be 
about eight or ten inches high, 
and made bevelled, so that one 
can be set within the other when %tne-shield. 

put away. They are made with or without a pane of 
glass in the top. Put around any half-hardy plant, with 
a lock of hay in them, they afford a very good protection 
during winter. With a movable top, containing a pane or 
two of glass, they are a tolerable sub- 
stitute for the next described. 

The Hand- Glass. — The frame is 
made either of hard wood or cast 
iron. It is made in two parts, to 
give air readily to the plants. Its 
mode of construction is readily seen 
in the figure. 




THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 

Agaricus Campestris — Mushroom. 

** The mushroom," says Loudon, *' is a well-known na- 
tive vegetable, springing up in open pastures in August 
and September. It is most readily distinguished when of 
middle size, by its fine pink or flesh-colored gills and plea- 
isant smell. In a more advanced stage the gills become of 
a chocolate color, and it is then more apt to be confounded 
with other kinds of dubious quality ; but the species which 
most nearly resembles it is slimy to the touch, having a 
rather disagreeable smell — further, the noxious kind grows 
in woods, or in the margin of woods, while the true mush- 
room springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be 
gathered only in such places." 

Some of the species of this genus are very poisonous. 
The mushroom is remarkable for its close assimilation in 
taste to animal matter. It is beginning to be extensively 
cultivated in this country near our large cities. 

Culture. — Beds may be readily constructed at any time 
of the year, except between April and September, when 
the temperature is rather too high for successful culture, 
unless in the cool cellar of some outhouse. But November 
and December are the best months for the purpose. Mush- 
rooms are propagated by spawn, which may be obtained 
for commencing from the seedsmen of our large cities. 
After a little spawn is obtained, it can be increased as fol- 
lows : — Take a quantity of fresh manure from high-fed 
horses, mixed with short litter — add one-third cow's dung, 

(116) 



MUSHROOM. 117 

and a good portion of loamy mould. Incorporate them 
thorouglily, mixing them with the drainings of a dungheap, 
and beat them until the whole becomes of the consistency 
of a thick mortar. Spread the mixture on the level floor 
of an open shed,^nd beat it flat with a spade. When it 
becomes dried to the proper consistency, cut it into bricks 
about eight inches square ; set them on edge, and turn fre- 
quently until half dry, then dibble two holes about half 
through each brick, and when perfectly dry, insert in 
each hole a piece of good spawn. Then somewhere under 
cover place a bottom of dry horse dung six inches thick, 
and place the bricks spawn side up, one upon another. 
The pile may be made three feet high ; cover it with warm 
horse-dung sufficient to diff'use a gentle glow of heat 
through the whole. The heat should not be over 70°, and 
the pile should be examined the second day to see that it 
does not overheat. When the spawn is diffused entirely 
through the bricks the process is finished. The bricks 
should then be laid separately in a dry place, and if Ic^pt 
perfectly dry, retain their vegetative power for many years. 
One bushel of spaAvn will plant a bed four feet by 
twelve. 

Beds for mushrooms may be made anywhere in a dry 
situation under cover. Make them four feet wide, and from 
ten to fifteen feet long, according to the wants of the 
family. A small shed might be erected for the purpose, 
but the back of a greenhouse is a very good situation, as 
they do not need much light. Space must be left for an 
alley, and if the shed be ten feet wide, it will admit of a 
bed on each side. 

A sufficient quantity of the droppings of hard-fed 
horses, pretty free from litter, must be obtained, which, 
while collecting, must be kept dry, and spread out thinly 
and turned frequently to prevent violent heating. When 



118" GAKDEXING FOR THE SOUTH'. 

the rank steam has escaped the bed may be built. The 
site should be dry. Dig out the earth six inches deep, 
the size of the bed, and if good lay it aside for use. Fill 
this trench Avith good fresh dung for the bottom, and lay 
on this the prepared dung, until the whole is six inches 
thick above the surface; beat it down firmly with the back 
of the fork, and build up the sides with a slight but regu- 
lar slope. Let the bed slope downwards towards the walk, 
lay over it three inches of good clayey loam ; place another 
layer ten or twelve inches thick of prepared dung, and in 
the same manner continue until the bed is two and a half 
or three feet thick. Cover the bed with clean litter to 
prevent drying and the escape of the gases, and let it 
remain ten days, or until the temperature becomes mild 
and regular; about 60°, and certainly not less than 50^, is 
the proper degree of warmth. Here skill and practice are 
most required, for on the treatment at this precise point, 
the success of the bed depends. If the manure has a 
brown color, and is so loose and melloAv that when pressed 
it will yield no water, but has a fat unctions feel without 
any smell of fresh dung, the bed is in a right state. If it 
is dry, and hard, or sloppy and liquid, it is not in the 
proper condition. In the first case moderate watering may 
restore it, but in the latter the superabundance of water 
will probably spoil it, and it is better to commence anew. 
When the bed is ready, break the bricks of spawn into 
lumps the size of a walnut, which plant regularly six 
inches apart over the surface of the bed, including its sides 
and ends, just beneath the surface of the manure. Level 
the surface by gently smoothing with the back of the 
spade. Fine rich loam, rather light than otherwise, is then 
put on two inches thick. Lastly, a covering of straw from 
six to twelve inches, according to the temperature. If the 
bed gets too hot, take off most of the covering. When 



MUSHROOMS. 119 

tlie bed appears too dry, sprinkle it gently with soft tepid 
water in the morning. The water should be poured 
through the rose of a watering-pot upon a thin layer of 
straw, laid on for the purpose, and when the earth becomes 
a little moistened, the straw should be removed, and the dry 
covering replaced. In warm weather it will need frequent 
sprinkling, but in winter very little. 

In four or five weeks after spawning, the bed should 
begin to produce, and if kept dry and warm will last 
several months. A gathering may take place two or 
three times a week according to the productiveness. If it 
should not come on in two or three months, a little more 
warmth or a sprinkling of water will generally bring it 
into plentiful bearing, unless the spawn has been destroyed 
by over-heating or too much moisture. In gathering, de- 
tach them with a gentle twist and fill the cavity with 
mould; do not use a knife, as the stumps left in the 
ground become the nurseries of m.aggots which are liable 
to infest the succeeding crop. Gather before they become 
flat — when half an inch or more in diameter, while compact 
and firm. 

Use. — This "voluptuous poison" has been cultivated and 
in high esteem among epicures since the time of the 
Romans. They are employed in catsups, pickles, and 
rich gravies and considered by those accustomed to them 
very delicious. Dried and powdered they are preserved 
in closely stopped bottles for times when they are not to 
be procured fresh. 

To Stew. — Cut off the part of the stem that grows in 
the earth ; wash carefully, and take off the skin from the 
top ; place in a stew-pan with salt, without water ; stew 
slowly, shaking the pan occasionally until tender ; then 



120 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

thicken with a spoonful of browned flour and one of 
butter ; add spices and wine, if to your taste. 

To broil. — Prepare as above, and lay on a small gridiron 
over bright coals, stalk upmost; broil quickly and serve 
with butter, salt and pepper. 

Mushroom Catswp. — Take the flaps of two gallons of 
fresh mushrooms and put in an earthen dish ; sprinkle upon 
them three-fourths of a pound of salt ; crush them fine ; boil 
sometime and strain ; put them upon the fire again, and 
add a few cloves of garlic, one-half ounce of black pepper, 
and one-half ounce of ground cloves ; boil until reduced 
to one-half the original quantity ; bottle, cork tight, and 
keep in a cool place. 

Allium — The Onion Tribe. 

This genus contains several of the most useful plants 
which demand the gardener s care. They all require a 
rich, friable soil and a situation enjoying the full influence 
of the sun, and free from the shade and drip of trees. If 
the soil be poor or exhausted, abundance of manure 
should be applied some time before planting and thoroughly 
incorporated with it; for rank, unreduced dung is injurious, 
engendering decay. If applied at the time of planting, 
the manure must be thoroughly putrescent, and turned in 
only to a moderate depth. If the ground be tenacious, 
sand, or better still, charcoal dust is advantageous ; ashes 
and soot are particularly beneficial. Common salt, at the 
rate of six to eight bushels per acre, is an excellent appli- 
cation to tliis family of plants. In digging the ground, 
small spadefuls should be turned over at a time, that the 
texture may be well broken and pulverized. 

Light, sandy soils, if rich, are very well suited to the 
growth of these vegetables. 



ONION. 



121 



Allium Cepa — The Onio?;. 

This plant, which is probably a native of Asia and 
Egypt, has been cultivated from the most remote antiquity, 
and is one of the most useful of our garden crops. 

Analysis by Richardson : 



Potash, .... 


. 29.21 


Soda, 


9.41 


Lime, .... 


. 11.43 


Magnesia, . 


2.44 


Phosphate of Iron, . 


. 12.00 


Phosphoric Acid, 


. 13.62 


Sulphuric Acid, 


. 7.53 


Chlorine, .... 


2.46 


Silica, .... 


. 2.76 


Sand, Charcoal, , 


4.75 


Carbonic Acid, 


. 4.33 



99.94 

It will be seen from the above analysis that to raise 
good onions, soda, lime, potash, phosphoric and sulphuric 
acid, and silica must be found in the soil abundantly. 
Ashes, bone dust, gypsum, and the salt and lime mixture 
will supply nearly all the inorganic constituents of this 
crop ; and where they do not already exist in sufficient 
quantities in the soil they may be supplied in addition to 
animal manure. Professor Mapes directs that when suffi- 
cient manure cannot be obtained, four hundred pounds of 
Peruvian guano composted with five bushels of bone dust, 
dissolved in sulphuric acid and enough charcoal dust to 
divide the mass, will be found to produce a maximum 
crop. Guano water and spent lye well diluted are ex- 
cellent liquid manures. 

Varieties. — There is a great number of varieties of 
onions, among which are 

Large Red, a hardy variety raised abundantly in the 
6 



122 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Northern States for export. It is deep red, medium size, 
rather flat, and keeps well. 

Yellow Strasburg. — Large yellow, oval, a little flat- 
tened, very hardy ; keeps exceedingly well, but is a little 
too strong in flavor for most tastes. Best for winter use at 
the South. 

Silver-sl-inned. — Of smaller size but finer flavor, silvery 
white, flat, and very much used for pickling. 

These three are the best among some fourteen varieties 
to raise for family use ; and the Yellow and Red for gene- 
ral culture, as the white is apt to decay. Besides these 
varieties the Top and Potato onion will be hereafter 
noticed. 

Culture. — Onions are raised from seed or sets which 
maybe planted from October to April, but February is the 
best month for the purpose. Onions require a very rich, 
light soil and a free, open exposure ; they will not do any- 
thing under the shade of trees. If the soil is not rich, a 
plenty of well rotted manure should be applied some time 
before planting and well dug in. A moderate quantity of 
leached ashes and soap suds will not come amiss, whether 
before or after planting. They do not require a change of 
soil, being an exception to the general rule that plants like 
a rotation, as they have been grown in Scotland a century 
in the same spot without any diminution of the crop. The 
root throws off no excrementitious matter. 

The onion can be grown in great perfection at the South. 
In the hot climates of Spain, Portugal, and especially 
Egypt, the finest onions in the world are produced, the roots 
being milder and of greater size than in most countries. 

It is a good plan to make the beds just wide enough for 
three rows, say thirty inches Avide, with a narrow alley 
between, which may be filled with sweet corn or cabbages, 
after the crop is laid by. The soil of the beds must be 



ONiox. 123 

finely djig, the surface rolled smooth and all the clods beat 
fine that may have escaped the spade. The rows may be 
laid off from twelve to fourteen inches apart. The drills 
should be drawn very shallow, as the best onions grow 
upon the surface of the ground. For this reason, it is well 
to roll the bed, or beat it smooth with the back of the 
spade, before making the drills. Some soak the seed 
twenty-four hours before planting, but to little advantage. 
Do not sow very thick — only one or two seeds in a place. 
A seed every two inches is quite thick enough, as thin- 
ning out, when too thick, is apt to injure the remainder. 
Cover the seeds about half an inch, and press down the 
earth upon them by a roller, or by walking over them on a 
board. When they come up, thin them out gradually in 
the drills, to 6 inches apart. Keep the bed clean and free 
from weeds ; and stir it frequently, but not deeply, with a 
hoe. Do not hill the earth up against the onions ; but 
draw it away from them with the fingers, as they do bet- 
ter to grow entirely above the ground. There is no crop 
more easily raised or preserved, if the ground is rich 
enough, and the bulbs made to grow upon the surface. 
After the young onions have got a good start, it is best to 
drop the hoe entirely and resort to hand-weeding. In dry 
weather, a thorough drenching in weak liquid manure, or 
soapsuds, is excellent. For pickling, the white onion 
should be sown much more thickly, and thinned out until 
aboiit one or two inches apart in the row, which will cause 
them to ripen early, before they have made too large a 
growth. 

If onions grow thick-necked, and do not bulb properly, 
bend down the stems about two inches above the neck, to 
the ground, without disturbing the roots. This is needful 
only in very wet seasons. 

When very large bulbs are desired, the seed may be 



124 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

sown quite thick, in pretty good soil, and not thinned out 
at all. Little bulbs or sets will form about the size of the 
button onion, which may be taken up when the tops die, 
and preserved in a dry loft until time for preparing the 
bed, and then may be planted, instead of the seed, eight 
inches apart, in the drills. If they throw up a seed stalk, 
it must be promptly broken off, or they will form no bot- 
toms. These sets, planted out early in the year, will 
form fine large bulbs in May or June ; Avhile those raised 
from the seed, do not ripen until July. Hence the latter 
are better keepers. Besides, they are better flavored, and 
more solid. 

When the crop is ready for harvesting, it is known by 
the drying up and change of color of the stems. 

To preserve them. — Pull them on a dry day, dry them 
thoroughly in the shade, and stow them in aloft where they 
can have plenty of air. When thoroughly dry, they can 
be strung in ropes. From two to five hundred bushels 
per acre is the usual crop. 

For seed. — Select the largest and finest bulbs and plant 
out in the fall, about twelve inches apart, in beds of com- 
mon garden soil, not too rich. Keep them free from weeds ; 
and when they throw up seed-stalks, support them by 
poles laid horizontally on stakes, six or eight inches above 
the surface of the beds. Home grown seed from good bulbs 
is as good as the best imported. It will keep three years. 

Use. — Onions are among the most useful products of 
the garden. They possess valuable medicinal properties, 
and are used in colds and coughs as an expectorant. Rub- 
bed on the skin, they are a good application for the sting 
of a bee. But they are mostly used in cooking, and espe- 
cially as a flavoring ingredient and seasoning for soups, 
meats and sauces j for which purpose they have been em- 
ployed from time immemorial. They contain considerable 



ONION. 125 

nutriment, and are tolerably wholesome, especially if 
boiled. Raw, tliey are not very digestible, and they are the 
same if fried or roasted. Eating a few leaves of parsley 
will destroy in a measure the unpleasant smell they im- 
part to the breath. 

To hoil. — Boil them twenty minutes in water with a lit- 
tle salt; then pour off the water entirely. Then put in 
equal parts of hot water and milk, or skimmed milk alone, 
and boil them twenty minutes more. When they are done 
through, take them up carefully with a skimmer ; let them 
drain a little, and lay them into the dish. Put on butter, 
pepper, and salt. Onions, like all other vegetables, need to 
be slightly salted while cooking or their sweetness will be 
mostly lost. 

To ^iclde. — Select small silver-skins of ec[ual size, peel 
off th eir outer skin, and scald them three times with boil- 
ing salt and water, allowing them to cool after each scald- 
ing ; then put the onions into a pot, pour boiling vinegar 
upon them, cover them closely, and place them aside for 
use. They ought to be good pickles in two weeks. — Mrs, 
Bliss. 

To make Onion Sauce. — Peel and cut into slices two 
onions, put them into a stewpan Avith two tablespoonfuls of 
butter ; set the pan on a slow fire, and let it stew until the 
onions are reduced to a pulp, then stir in one tablespoon- 
ful of flour and let it brown ; then add half a tumbler of 
water, pouring it in a little at a tim.e, and stirring contin- 
ually. If the sauce is now too thick, add a little more 
water, and salt it to your taste. — Mrs. Bliss. 

Allium Tuhcrosum — Potato Onion. 

I cannot learn the origin of this species — it derives 
its name from producing a cluster of bulbs or offsets 
beneath the surface of the soil. There are two species, 



126 GARDENING FOH THE SOUTH. 

one producing bulbs on the stem like the tree onion, and 
the other never throwing up flower-stems at all. The 
latter produces much larger bulbs than the other variety. 
Culture. — It is propagated by offsets of the roots which 
may be planted at any time from October to March. 
Prepare the soil as for the black seed variety, but not so 
rich, and insert the offsets in drills twelve inches from each 
other, and ten inches apart in the drills, with the tojDS just 
level with the surface. Beds four feet wide are found the 
most convenient in practice. Keep the ground loose and 
free from weeds, but do not hoe deep nor earth them up, 
if you would have them ripen perfectly. Take them up 
when their leaves turn yellow and treat them as the last 
variety described, if you wish to preserve for winter. 
They will be found earlier and milder in flavor than those 
raised from seed but not as profitable, as the bulbs are 
rather small. Used in the same way as the other varieties. 

Allium Froliferum. — Tree or Button Onion. 

Also called the Canada onion. A very hardy and peren- 
nial species, it is very much cultivated, and a great favorite 
in countries either too cold or too warm for the other 
varieties to flourish. It produces little bulbs at the top of 
its seed stems. Hence the name tree or top onion. This 
is the easiest cultivated of any of the onions, properly so 
called, and will always be a favorite as the crop is quite 
abundant and little care is required. 

Culture. — Plant at any time from the first of October to 
April, the little buttons produced at the top of the stalk. 
The ground should be prepared and manured as directed for 
the common onion, and laid off in drills one foot apart, and 
the buttons set six inches distant in the drill. Beds four feet 
wide are most convenient for culture and weeding. Plant 
the button with its apex just even with the surface of the 



GARLIC. 



127 



ground ; every little button will produce one, and often two 
or three good sized onions. If you wish large bulbs, the 
seed-stem should be broken down. The old bulbs, if any 
remain over, may be planted and will yield an abundant 
crop of buttons and off-sets ; keep the ground free of weeds 
and cultivate as directed for the other onions. They will 
be fit for use if well treated, in May, long before the other 
kinds. Gather and cure as directed for the common onion. 
The small bulbs are the finest of this tribe for pickling, 
being considered much superior in flavor. 



Allium Sativi 



-GrARLIC. 



This is a hardy perennial plant, a native of Sicily and 
the south of France ; it has been cultivated at least three 
hundred years. There are two sorts, one with large and 
the other with small bulbs ; each bulb consisting of a half 
dozen or more small bulbs or cloves. The ashes of the 
garlic bulbs have been analysed by Herapath, and the con- 
stituents are given below. We have not been able to find 
an analysis of the leaves. 



Soluhle matter.- 


-Carbonic Acid, 


12.17 




Sulphuric Acid, . 


. 4.82 




Phosphoric Acid, 


2.18 




Potassa, 


. 35.13 




Soda, .... 


trace 




Chloride of Sodium, . 


. 2.75 


Insoluhle matUr- 


—Carbonate of Lime, 


5.74 




Do. Magnesia, 


. 6.89 




Phosphate of Lime, 


30.09 




Do. Magnesia, 


. trace 




Do. Iron, 


trace 




Silica, 


. 0.22 



99.99 



128 GARDENI^sG FOR THE SOUTH. 

The above analysis indicates for Garlic a soil abounding 
in potash and phosphate of lime, which may be supplied 
if necessary by a compost of ashes and bone-dust. 

Culture. — Garlic likes a dry light rich soil, but not 
freshly manured ; the manure should be put on the pre- 
ceding crop. Prepare the ground as directed for the rest 
of the onion tribe, and mark it off into drills eight inches 
apart. Plant the cloves four inches distant in the drills, 
and two inches deep, and see that they are put in right 
side up. Keep the ground free from weeds, and light by 
frequent hoeing; plant from October to March. 

A few roots may be taken up the latter part of May 
for use as required, but do not lift the crop until the leaves 
are withered. Break down the seed stalk if it rises, to 
prevent from running to seed, which would lessen the size 
of the bulbs. 

When the leaves turn yellow, take them up and dry 
them thoroughly in the shade, tie them together by the 
tops, and lay them up for winter in a dry loft as you 
would onions. If the ground is not needed for another 
crop, they may remain to be drawn as wanted. 

Use. — This pla>it has a well known strong penetrating 
odor which is most powerful at mid-day. In medicine it is 
an excellent diaphoretic and expectorant; a diuretic when 
taken internally. If garlic be steeped in brandy, the 
tincture it forms is an excellent medicine for children. 
A teaspoonful should be given every morning in spring to 
every child on the premises, black or white, that is 
subject to worms, as it acts as an excellent tonic and 
anthelmintic. Some nations use it very extensively for 
seasoning soups and stews, and indeed it enters into almost 
every dish ; but in this country it is not very much liked. 
Still a very slight, scarcely perceptible flavor, or as the 
French have it — a sowpgon of garlic is not repugnant, but 



LEEK. 



129 



rather ngreeable to most tastes. The juice Is a good 
cement for broken china. 

Allium Fistolosiim — Ciboule, or Welsh Onion. 
This is a perennial with large succulent fistular leaves, 
never forming bulbs, but cultivated for a spring salad. 
Sow the seed the last of September. It will continue 
growing all winter, withstanding the severest frosts. Sow 
thickly, and thin out when wanted for use. It may 
be sown at any time during the winter, but it is better 
when sown as directed above. Once introduced into the 
garden it will last many years, but it is hardly worth cul- 
tivating as, on account of its strong taste, it is much infe- 
rior to the common onion. 

Allium Forrum — Leek. 
The leek is a hardy biennial, found wild in Switzerland, 
but has been cultivated in gardens from the earliest times. 
It is mentioned in the Scriptures with the onion, as one of 
the vegetables of the Egyptians ; and at the present day 
is often associated with the name of St. David, the patron 
saint of the Welr^h. Tliis plant endures the extremes of 
heat and cold without injury. The following analysis of 
the ashes of the roots and leaves of the leek is by Eich- 
ardson : 





Balb. 


Stem. 


Potassa, 


32.35 


13.98 


Soda, 


8.04 


14.43 


Lime, 


12.66 


25.10 


Magnesia, 


2.70 


trace 


Sulphuric Acid, 


8.34 


16.50 


Silicic Acid, 


3.04 


19.77 


Phosphoric Acid, 


15.09 




Phosphate of Iron. 


13.29 


10.06 


Chloride of Sodium, 


4.49 


trace 



100.00 



99.84 



6* 



180 GARDENIN-G FOR THE SOUTH. 

We see from the above that a good soil for leeks abounds 
in potash, lime, and sulphuric and phosphoric acids. Ashes, 
bones, gypsum, and common salt, will supply the requisite 
salts if wanting, for this or almost any other garden crop. 
A compost of guano, gypsum and charcoal would be very 
beneficial. 

Varieties. — These are two, the Scotch, which is the 
larger and hardier, and the London, which by many is 
considered the better of the two. 

Culture. — The leek is raised solely from seed which 
may be sown at any time during autumn, winter, and 
spring, until the middle of April. February is the best 
month for the purpose, if but one crop is raised. 

The soil for leeks as for the others of the onion tribe, 
should be light and rich; the blackest and most fertile soil 
of the garden, but the manure applied must not be rank. 
The same guano compost may be applied as for onions. 
Leeks are generally sown broadcast, but it is a much 
neater method to sow in drills. Make the drills in the 
seed-bed eight inches apart, and about an inch deep, and 
scatter the seed rather thinly. Press the earth upon the 
seed as directed for onions. Some gardeners thin them 
out, and allow them to remain in the seed-bed, but the 
leek is so much improved by transplanting that this plan 
cannot be recommended. When the plants are three or 
four inches high, they must be weeded and thinned to one 
or two inches apart, and frequently watered in dry wea- 
ther. The seed-bed must be kept clean and light by weed- 
ing, or the use of the hoe whenever required, until the 
plants are six or eight inches high, when they will be fit 
for transplanting. They must then be taken away from 
the seed-bed, the ground being previously well watered, 
if not already soft and yielding. 

Having prepared beds four feet wide by spading in a 



LEKK. 131 

quantity of Avell-rotted manure, lay it ofl" in little trenches 
twelve inches apart, and as deep as the hoe will conve- 
niently go. Dibble holes three inches deep, and six inches 
apart in the bottom of the trenches, in which set out the 
plants. Press the earth to the roots and neck only, and 
not to the leaves. The tops may be slightly trimmed and 
the roots slightly shortened. Some prefer planting them 
on the level surface of the prepared bed, by inserting 
them in holes made with the dibble, in roAvs ten inches 
asunder, and eight inches apart in the rows nearly dow^n 
to the leaves, with the whole neck beneath the surface, 
that it may be well blanched. Choose a moist time for 
transplanting, and give a little water should they droop 
A portion may remain in the seed-bed, six inches apart in 
the rows, but they do not grow as large as the transplanted 
ones. 

The beds must be hoed occasionally to keep them free 
from weeds and loosen the soil. In dry weather they 
should be freely watered. By cutting off the leaves a lit- 
tle about once a month, the neck will SM^ell to a much 
larger size; earth them up gradually if they stand on a 
level ground, and, if in the trenches, the earth should be 
drawn by a hoe, little by little, into the trenches, as the 
plants increase in growth. 

If a very early crop of leeks is desired, they may be 
planted in September, and the plants will be ready to set 
out the middle of February ensuing, and will come into 
use in June or July. Leeks can be planted between 
almost any other crop by giving six inches extra room. 

For Seed. — Some of the finest roots ot last year's 
growth, may be transplanted in February, eight inches 
distant in a row. When the seed stems arise, they must 
be supported by tying them to stakes. The heads should 
be cut when changed to a brownish color, with about a 



132 GARDENfNG FOR THE SOUTH. 

foot of the Stalk attaclied, for the convenience of tying 
them into bundles of three or four to dry. When dry, 
they may be hung up in a dry place, and kept in the head 
until wanted, or threshed out and stored in paper bags ; 
the seed will keep two years. 

ITse. — The whole plant is much used in soups and stews, 
but the most delicate part is the blanched stems. From 
its mild agreeable taste, it is esteemed by many above the 
onion. 

To Boil. — Trim off the coarser leaves, cut them into 
equal lengths, tie in small bunches, and boil in plenty of 
water, which has been previously salted and skimmed. 
Serve them with melted butter. They need about twenty- 
five minutes boiling. If the water is changed when half 
done, they are much more delicate, the strong flavor being 
entirely removed. 

Allium Ascalonium — Shallot, or Eschallot. 

This plant derives its botanical name from growing wild 
at Ascalon, in Syria. It has a stronger taste than the 
onion ; but as the strong flavor does not remain so long 
upon the palate, it is often preferred. The root is bulbous, 
similar to that of garlic, in being divided into cloves, in- 
cluded in a membrane. It rarely sends up a flower-stalk, 
and hence is often called the barren onion. 

Culture. — It is propagated from the offsets of the roots. 
Prepare the beds as for the rest of the onion tribe, but it 
will do with not quite as rich a soil. Let the soil be made 
jDerfectly light and friable. The last of September is the 
best time for planting the early crop, but they may be 
planted any time during the autumn and winter. The 
early planted ones come into use early in May. Make 
the beds four feet wide, and mark them ofi' in drills an 
inch deep, ten or twelve inches distant, and put the offsets 



SHALLOTS. 133 

out six inches apart in the drills. Do not cover deeply ; 
leave the point of the clove just even with the surftice of 
the earth, and press the soil around. Keep the ground 
free from weeds, but be particular, in hoeing, not to earth 
up the bulbs. The leek is the only member of the onion 
tribe that is not injured by gathering the earth about its 
stem. Take up the bulbs when ripe, dry in the shade, 
and preserve as garlic. They may be kept until the next 
spring. 

Use. — The shallot, though more pungent than some 
members of the onion family, is preferred by many in sea- 
soning gravies, soups, and other culinary preparations, and 
by some considered almost indispensable in the prepara- 
tion of a good beefsteak. It can be pickled in the same 
manner as the onion. 

Shallot Vinegar. — Peel and chop fine four ounces of 
shallots ; pour on them a quart of the best vinegar, and 
let them steep a fortnight; then strain and bottle it. — 
Miss Leslie. 

Shallot Sauce. — Put a few chopped shallots into a little 
gravy, boiled clear, and nearly half as much vinegar ; sea- 
son with pepper and salt ; boil half an hour. — Mrs. Hale. 

Allium Schcencprasum — Chives, or Gives. 

A perennial plant, growing wild in the meadows of 
Britain, as some varieties of the same genus do in this 
country. The bunches are made up of a mass of little 
bulbs, and produce pretty purplish flowers early in sum- 
mer. 

Culture. — Any common soil will answer for this plant. 
Divide the roots in autumn or spring, and plant them on 
a bed or border, in little bunches of ten or twelve offsets, 
in holes made with the dibble ten inches apait. If kept 
free from weeds, they w^ill speedily make large bunches, 



134 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

a few of which will supply a large family. Cat the tops 
smoothly off near the surface, when wanted, and fresh 
ones will soon spring up. Gives make a very pretty 
edging for beds in winter and spring. Renew this plant 
every four years by taking up and dividing the roots. 

Use. — It is an excellent substitute for young onions in 
winter and spring salading, and is also used like leeks and 
onions in seasoning soups, gravies, &c. The leaves, cut 
up line and mixed with meal and water, are often fed to 
young chickens as a preventive of disease. The little 
bulbs may be taken up and stored, and are a tolerable 
substitute for small onions. 

Allium Scorodoprasiim — Roc am bole. 

or Spanish Garlic, as it is sometimes called, has its bulbs 
and cloves growing in a cluster, forming a kind of com- 
pound root. The stem also bears bulbs at its summit. 

Culture. — It is best propagated by the root-bulbs, those 
of the summit being slow in production. The planting 
may be made at any time in the fall, winter, or spring. 
Insert the bulbs in drills, or with the dibble, six inches 
apart each wa3^ Do not plant them deep. Keep clear 
of weeds, and cultivate and store like garlic. A very few 
roots are sufficient for any funnily. 

Use. — The bulbs are used in the same manner as garlic, 
and are preferred for cooking, being of much milder flavor. 

Apium. 

Plants of this genus flourish best in a soil moist, friable, 
and rather inclining to lightness. It must be rich, and 
that rather from farmer applications than the immediate 
addition of manure. Celery and Celeriac, however, appear 
benefited by its abundant application at the time of sowing 
and planting. 



CELEKY. 135 

The Parsleys like a tolerably dry soil. For all the 
genus it must be deep, and none of them thrive so well on 
a strong clay. They like an open situation, free from the 
influence of trees. The common parsley bears best a 
confined and shady situation. They have recently been 
placed in the genus Petrosdinum. 

Apiiim Gravcolens — Celery. 

Celery is a biennial plant, a native of Britain, where 
the wild variety, under the name of Smallage, is found 
groAving in low, marshy grounds, and by the sides of ditches, 
and is a coarse, rank weed, with an unpleasant smell and 
taste. It has also been found growing Avild on the shores 
of the Chesapeake. No plant has been more improved by 
culture than this, which, under the gardener's hand, from 
a worthless, disagreeable, and, as some say, poisonous 
weed, has become, with Its crisp, blanched stalk, and deli- 
cate aromatic flavor, a. favorite vegetable with the epicure 
There are several varieties of celery, of which we shall 
notice but four, viz. : 

B.ed Solid. — The hardiest variety, for winter use, with- 
stands frost, and is distinguished by its color from the 
next. 

IVhite. Sclld is more crisp and delicate In flavor than the 
preceding, and a general favorite, on account of its color. 

Seymour's Red, and Seymour's White seem to be im- 
provements on the old red and white solid, producing 
larger and finer stalks, but these depend for size and excel- 
lence very much upon the growers. Any one of the above 
varieties will give satisfaction, with proper culture. 

An analysis of the ashes of celery has been made by 
Richardson, which we give below. One hundred pounds 
of celery gave 1 iJo pounds of ash, containing the follow- 
ing constituents : 



136 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Potassa, . ,. . , . 22.07 

Lime, . ' - . . 13.11 

Magnesia, 5.82 

Oxide of manganese, . . 1.92 

Sulphuric acid, .... 5.58 

Silicic acid, . . ^ . . 3.85 

Phosphoric acid, . . . 11.58 

Phosphate of iron, . . . 2.66 

Chloride of potassium, . . 33.41 

From the above we see that the soil for fine celery must 
be rich in potash, lime, phosphoric acid, and chloride of 
potassium. The abundance of potash and chloride of 
potassium explains the beneficial action of salt and ashes 
upon this plant. But it will not do to depend upon special 
manures alone, without the addition of ammoniacal fer- 
tilizers. 

Culture. — Celery can be very successfully cultivated in 
this climate. The ground for this plant must be quite 
rich, without the application of heating manure. It likes 
a cool, moist, but not wet soil. There are several modes 
of cultivation, of which Ave shall give but two. The best 
mode is to sow in Pebruary, March, or April, in drills 
seven or eight inches apart. As celery is a long while 
vegetating in the open air, it is desirable to sow the early 
crop under glass. Let the seed-bed be very rich, and 
with a little salt well mixed with the soil. Water freely 
in mild weather, when the soil appears too dry, taking off 
the sash in warm days, and giving air every day at noon 
until the seed comes up, which, if managed in this way, 
will not be long in making its appearance. After the seed 
is up, the glass should still be kept on nights, until mild 
spring weather, when it may be removed altogether. 
Celery is very much benefited, while in the seed-bed, by 
shading it at mid-day, and the April sowing must be 
shaded, or it will not come up. Frequent watering with 



CELERY. 137 

guano-water, or liquid-manure, very much diluted, is ex- 
ceedingly beneficial. The plants also should be kept 
clean and thinned out, while not over three or four inches 
high, to three inches apart. Choose damp weather for 
this purpose. Those which are taken up may be replanted 
in a bed prepared by thorough digging in the richest part 
of the garden. With the uppermost six inches of this bed 
should be incorporated as rich a coat of well-rotted manure 
as can well be mixed in. Plant them out three inches 
apart each way, and water them thoroughly every night, 
unless the weather be cold or wet. Keep them shaded 
during the day for a short time, until established. Here 
let them remain until fit to plant out permanently. Those 
which remain in the seed-bed should have their tops short- 
ened, to make them grow more stoutly, and be frequently 
watered. The earth should ahvays be stirred the morning 
after giving water, to prevent the ground from growing 
hard. The transplanted ones will make the finest crop ; 
but for late celery, they should be cut off nearly to the 
crown, two or three times, to make them grow stout. 
When the plants are grow^n from six to nine inches high, 
it will be the proper time to plant those for early celery 
where they are to remain. And now, if you wish extra 
fine heads, trench your celery-patch, which must be very 
rich, twenty inches deep, turning the rich soil to the bot- 
tom, and the poor subsoil to the top, Avhich will be just as 
good for blanching as the best. As the celery is to be 
planted in a trench, this will thix)w the best of the soil 
where the roots of the plant can appropriate it. In the 
soil thus prepared, dig trenches three and a half feet apart, 
a foot wide, and the same in depth. Draw a line and mark 
out the sides by thrusting doAvn the edge of the spade before 
digging out the earth, and then lay the soil taken out 
carefully on each side in the spaces between the trenches. 



138 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

If there is danger that the water from tlie adjohiing parts 
of the garden shoukl wash in and fill up the trenches, 
then the celery plantation must be protected by a ditch. 
The soil can hardly be made too rich ; therefore, incorpo- 
rate well-decomposed stable manure with the bottom soil 
of the trench, and intermingle it with good rich earth, so 
as to fill up the trench about four inches, leaving it eight 
inches deep. Add bone-dust, if you can get it, and let a 
pint of salt be added to every fifty feet of trench, and 
thoroughly intermingled Avith the soil. When celery is 
raised on a large scale, Professor Mapes directs the follow- 
ing composts to be put in the bottom of the trench : — One 
half cord well-decomposed stable manure, thoroughly 
mixed with ten gallons strong brine ; or one cord swamp- 
muck or leaf-mould from the woods, decomposed with the 
salt and lime mixture, well intermingled, with fifty pounds 
Peruvian guano, ten days before use ; or one load charcoal 
dust, two hundred pounds guano, and two bushels of com- 
mon salt : mix the salt and guano with water, to the con- 
sistence of cream, and thoroughly intermingle with the 
charcoal dust. 

The last manure is much more powerful than the others, 
and a less quantity is required. 

If the weather is not cloudy or damp when you wish to 
transplant, saturate your nursery -bed, two or three hours 
before planting, with water, and take up each plant with 
a trowel, leaving a ball of earth attached. Cut off" the 
straggling leaves, shorten in the remainder, and remove 
the offsets, but do not disturb the crown of the plant. 
Transplant late in the evening, and if done with care, and 
they are freely watered, they will hardly need shading, 
unless it is very hot. The plants should be six inches 
apart in the trenches. Stir the soil frequently, keep clear 
from weeds, and water copiously in dry weather with soap- 



CELERY. 139 

Buds, rain, or guano water. Earthing-up is necessary, in 
order to blancli and sweeten the stalk. 

If you wish rery large plants, or to preserve for winter 
use, do not commence this until October; but if you desire 
a few, delicate and crisp, for early use, begin, when from 
twelve to eighteen inches high, earthing up a little at a 
time in fine dry weather, but not too often ; once in two 
or three weeks is sufficient, as, if disturbed too much, the 
stalks do not grow so large. Take care not to cover the 
crown bud. At every earthing up, a very slight sprink- 
ling of salt in the trenches is advantageous. Continue the 
earthing up every tw^o or three weeks, as the plant grows, 
through the season. In earthing-up, care must be taken 
that the mould does not get between and separate the 
leaves, which induces decay. Hold the leaves tightly 
with one hand, and with the other draw the earth care- 
fully about the stems. The earth should be fine and 
well pulverized. Draw it evenly in a sloping direction 
from the base to near the top of the leaf-stalks, and beat it 
compactly Avitli the back of the spade to throw off violent 
storms. In the .whole process of raising celery, the 
ground must be kept well pulverized and free from weeds, 
and liberal watering in continued dry weather is very neces- 
sary. Do not earth up celery while the plants are wet. 
The French bind the plants with straw bands, previous to 
earthing up, just as we do cardoons. 

Market gardeners do not prick out their celery at all ; 
they let it grow pretty thick in the seed-bed, and if the 
plants get too high before the time of setting out, they 
cut the leaves off nearly to the crow^i. They make the 
trenches with the turning-plough, and after the earthing- 
up has proceeded so far by hand as to make the trenches 
level with the surface, they use the plough between the 
rows previous to earthing-up with the hoe. They also 



140 GARDENING FOR TKK SOUTH. 

take their late and early plants from the same bed ; for late 
celery, cutting off the plants as often as they get too high. 
Plants can thus be kept in the seed-bed until the last of 
July, and by being thus cut down, the butts and stalks of 
the celery will be stocky, large, and fine. 

Celery grows so quickly after the plant is established, 
that those plants put out the last of July, and earthed-up 
in October and November, make the finest butts for a 
main crop. There is beside no difficulty in their keeping. 
The very finest celery may be grown by the foregoing 
method ; but celery, quite good enough for common use, 
can be raised after Mr. Peabody's plan, which we give in 
his own words : 

" As the whole process of making celery is artificial, 
the soil must be very rich, without heating manure. The 
seed may be sown in February and March, and may be 
put in in drills, where it is desirable to have it stand for 
blanching fall the transplanting and trenching is non- 
sensej ; the seed should be sown very thin, and covered 
about half an inch, and the earth trampled quite hard on 
them, which will cause them soon to vegetate. When the 
plants are up three inches, thin them out, to a stand of 
about six inches apart, and in clear, dry weather, draw 
the earth up to the plant, taking care to leave the crown- 
bud uncovered. This must be repeated as fast as the 
plant grows, until a mound or ridge has been made around - 
the plant some two or three feet high. It will now be fit 
for the table. On uncovering the stalks, they will be 
found to be beautifully blanched, and perfectly delicate 
and tender. A rough frame-work over the plants, covered 
with brush through the hottest part of the day, will be an 
advantage." 

The advantage of growing celery in trenches, over Mr. 
Peabody's plan, is, that not only are the stalks larger, but 



CELERY. 141 

in our diy climate the plants are far less affected by 
drought, as the trenches retain all the moisture received. 
Very good celery for common use may be raised by setting 
the plants, when ready for final transplanting, between 
the rows of Irish potatoes ; as these have been hilled up, a 
trench already exists. This should be well dug, and 
plenty of rotten stable manure applied. By the time the 
celery begins to grow, the potatoes can be removed. As 
the celery advances in growth, draw the earth up to the 
stem, and continue this as long as it is in the ground. It 
will be just as good for soups as if grown in regular 
trenches, with not a tenth of the trouble, and in time gets 
large enough to eat as salad. Celery grown in rich 
ground is far more crisp and agreeable than on that less 
highly manured. 

Celery, in this climate, need not be gathered or stored 
away, but may remain in the ground until needed for use. 
In taking tip, the row should always be commenced at 
one end, and the earth dug away entirely doAvn to the 
root. The plants can thus be easily extracted. If forced 
up, they break and are spoiled. 

To save Seed. — Leave some plants where grown ; in the 
latter part of February, take them carefully, cut off 
the outside leaves, and remove the side-shoots, and plant 
them out in moist soil, one foot apart. Select those which 
are solid and of middling size. Tie the seed-stalks to 
stakes, to preserve them from being broken off by violent 
winds. After the flowers open, while the seed is swelling, 
if dry weather occurs, water at least every other night. 
When the seed is dry, it may be rubbed out and stored in 
a dry place. They will keep good four years. 

Use. — Celery has some little nutriment, but is cultivated 
chiefly as a luxury. The sweet, crisp stalks, used raw, 
with a little salt, form a most grateful salad. It is also 



142 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

much used as a seasoning, and is a great improvement to 
all soups and gravies. A few plants for this purpose are 
as necessary and wholesome as onions. The unblanched 
leaves and seeds are sometimes employed in flavoring. 
The blanched stalks form a pleasant conserve, with the 
addition of sugar. 

To Stew. — Wash the heads, and strip off the outer 
leaves ; either halve or leave them whole, according to 
their size, and cut them into lengths of four inches. Put 
them into a stew-pan, with a cup of broth, or weak white 
gravy ; stew till tender ; then add two spoonfuls of cream, 
a little flour and butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, nut- 
meg, and a little pounded white sugar, and simmer all 
together. — Mrs. Hale. 

Celery Sauce. — Wash and pare a bunch of celery ; cut 
it into pieces, and boil gently until tender; add half a pint 
of cream, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour ; noAV 
boil gently. — Mrs. Hale. 

Apium Roypaceum — Celeriac of Turnip-rooted 
Celery. 

In Germany, this is esteemed an excellent vegetable, 
but it is not much cultivated by the English or Americans. 
Its root, well grown, is tender and of a sweeter flavor than 
the one last described. 

Celeriac is propagated by seed, Avhich should be sown 
at the same time, and the young plants treated in the same 
manner as celery. Like that plant, the seeds are slow in 
coming up. Keep the plants free from weeds and prick 
them out when small, as directed in the last article ; when 
the plants are six inches high they are fit for final trans- 
planting ; set them in rows two feet asunder, and eight 
inches apart in the rows upon the level ground, or 
in drills drawn with the hoe three inches deep, as they 



CELERY. 143 

require but little eartliing-up. When arrived to nearly 
their full size, they must be covered over with earth to 
the depth of four inches. In dry weather they should be 
watered plentifully every evening, as they like even more 
water than celery. The only additional attention required 
is to keep them free from weeds. The plant is more 
easily cultivated than celery. 

Saving Seeds. — The directions for celery are in eveiy 
respect applicable to celeriac. 

Use. — This, though a very line vegetable, seems to be 
little known. The stalks are used for seasoning soups &c., the 
same as celery from which they can hardly be distinguished. 
The roots are nice boiled tender, cut in slices and used 
in seasoning soups or meat pies ; or scrape and cut them 
in slices, boil till very tender, draw off the water, sprinkle 
a little salt and turn in milk sufficient to cover them ; stew 
four or five minutes, and serve up with the addition of a 
little butter. — Mrs. Webster. 

Bridgman says " the French and Germans cut it in slices 
and soak a few hours in vinegar — by such simple prepara- 
tion it becames mellow as a pine-apple and affords a deli- 
cious and very nourishing repast." The root is better 
than celery for seasoning soups. 

A'pinm Petrosel'mum^ — Parsley. 

Parsley is a biennial plant from Sardinia and southern 
Europe. There are two varieties, the plain and the curly- 
leaved. The first is most cultivated, notwithstanding the 
greater beauty of the latter for a garnish. The curled 
plant however requires more care in selecting, or it soon 
degenerates into the plain-leaved variety. Some think 
the plain has the best flavor. 

Culture. — Parsley is raised only from seed. Sow at 

^' Petroselinum Sativum. 



144 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

any time from the first of October until April. The seed 
if kept through the winter vegetates slowly and should 
be soaked twenty-four hours in water before planting. 
Parsley beds must be made annually if the plants are al- 
lowed to run to seed; but if the seed stalks are cut down 
as often as they rise, the plants will last many years. 
Many sow parsley as an edging to other beds or compart- 
ments. If sown in beds by itself, it is better not to sow- 
broadcast, but in drills ten inches apart. Any good garden 
soil is rich enough for this plant. Pulverize the bed by 
thorough spading, and I'ake it level before making the 
drills. Sow the seed moderately thick in drills an inch 
deep, and press the soil upon the seed ; a few radish seed 
may be sprinkled in the drills to mark them. The plants 
will not come up in less than three or four and sometimes 
six weeks. If sown late give it a shady border. October 
is the best month to sow this plant. Should the bed get 
weedy before the parsley appears, ])ull the intruders out 
by hand. As soon as the rows can be seen, hoe between 
them and draAv a rake crosswise to break the crust which 
has been formed, and the plants will grow vigorously. 
They will be fit for use when two or three inches high. 
"When they get strong, thin them out to three inches and 
finally to nine inches apart, being careful to reject all 
plants from the seed bed that are not nicely curled. If they 
grow too rank in summer, cut them off close to the collar. 
Soot is the very best manure for parsley, but it should 
be sparingly applied. A bed six feet long by four feet 
wide is large enough for almost any family. It is best to 
appropriate to it such a bed, where it will sow itself and 
yield a constant succession of new plants. Parsley needs 
no protection here, but grows all Avinter. Out off the 
plants closely in October that they may send up a fresh 
growth for winter use. 



HAMBURGH PARSLEY. 145 

To save Seeds. — All you have to do, is to let some of the 
finest curled plants throw up seed-stalks ; let them stand 
eighteen inches apart ; when the seed ripens it may he 
stored in a dry place. It will keep good several years, 
and it is singular that seed four years old will come up 
more quickly than that gathered six months before sowing. 

Use. — Parsley is a very agreeable and useful plant, 
affording a beautiful garnish. It is also used for its aro- 
matic properties in seasoning soups, stews, and meats. 
The green leaves eaten raw diminish the unpleasant smell 
of the breath after eating leeks and onions. It can be 
dried in summer, pounded fine, and put away in bottles ; 
but this is of no use in this climate, where fresh, green 
parsley can be had all winter from the garden. A tea 
made of the root is a good diuretic for children. The 
plant is also said to be useful in dropsy. 

Apiiun Latifolium* — Hamburgh Parsley. 

This plant is also known by the name of broad leaved 
or large-rooted parsley. It is not mAich cultivated ; it is 
propagated by seed, which may be sown from October to 
April. Sow thinly in drills, ten inches apart, in good 
soil, well dug and raked clean previous to laying out the 
drills. 

The plants come up about a month after sowing. When 
tolerably well grown, thin them out to nine inches asunder. 
Clean the bed from weeds, either with the hand or the 
hoe. Hoeing as often as the weeds appear or the ground 
gets hard is all the cultivation they need. By the first of 
July the plants may begin to be drawn for use. They can 
remain in the bed during the winter, to be drawn as 
required. 

To obtain Seed. — Allow some of the best plants to re- 

*Pe troscl i n u in ■ ? 



14:5 GARDENI^'G FOR THE SOUTH. 

main and throw np seed stalks. When the seed is ripe, 
cut, and when perfectly dry beat out and store away in a 
dry place. 

Use. — The root is the part used, and is about the size 
of a middling parsnip. By boiling, it is rendered very 
tender and palatable. It is eaten either as a sauce to 
meats or in soups like the carrot, but is not likelv to come 
into very general use. 

Arachis Ily^ogta — Ground Pea. 

This plant is likewise known as the gi'ound nut, pindar, 
and pea nut. Although not exactly belonging to the 
kitchen garden, a few hills should be allowed a place 
for the sake of the little folks, and indeed when baked 
few of the older members of the family Avill find them un- 
palatable. 

The ground pea was originally brought from Africa. 
It is also said to be a native of Mexico. This plant is a 
trailing annual, one of the few which ripens seed under 
ground. The yellow pea-shaped flower springs from the 
part of the stem near the surface of the earth, and after 
being fertilized, the flower stem elongates, growing from 
four to eight inches, turning downward until the small 
tubercle which is to be the future seed-pod, reaches and 
penetrates the earth. From the lower extremity of each 
legume, in the early part of its growth filaments proceed, 
seeking moisture and probably nutriment from the soil. 
The seed of the ground pea abounds in a fine oil which 
is sometimes expressed for table purposes. 

This oil renders it a very valuable crop for fattening 
hogs, being for this purpose fully equal to, and probably 
better than corn. The vines are greedily eaten by most 
farm animals. 

Culture. — The ground pea thrives and produces best on 



AERACACHA. 147 

a ligHt, tolerably fertile soil Yv^ith a good clay subsoil. Like 
clover, it possesses a long tap-root which extends deep 
into the earth, drawing thence the fertilizing properties 
which are beyond the reach of many of our cultivated 
crops. The soil should be deep and mellow and well 
broken up, so as to be ready for planting soon after the 
heavy frosts are over. The last of March or the first of 
April is a suitable time. 

For field culture, they may be planted in the pod, two 
in the hill ; but for the garden should be shelled. It is 
best to drop about four in a hill on the level ground ; the 
rows being laid off three and a half feet Avide and the hills 
two feet asunder ; cover them two or three inches. 

"When they come up, thin them to two in a hill and, if 
there be any vacancy, transplant. It is better to plant 
them level than on ridges, as they are less liable to suffer 
from drought. As they continue growing all the season, 
it is well to get them started as early as the season will 
permit. The only after-culture they require is to keep 
the ground clear and mellow, and a slight hilling up when 
they are laid by. They will produce from twenty-five to 
seventy or eighty bushels per acre, according to soil and 
culture, and are as easily cultivated as corn. 

Arracacha Esculenta. 

This is an umbelliferous plant, a native of Columbia, 
the root of which has been compared to the potato in ex- 
cellence and even supposed by some, likely to supersede 
it. Its main root divides into several large prongs. It 
considerably resembles celery in the appearance of its 
leaves, and belongs to the same natural family. Its root 
is light, starchy, and wholesome, and to those accustomed 
to it, agreeable. It is said to thrive best in the elevated 
mountain regions Avhere the medium temperature does not 



14:8 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

exceed G0°. It is propagated by division of the root an 
more rarely by seed. It is worthy of trial here. 

Arte??iisia Dracmiculus — Tar r agon. 

riiis is a perennial plant, a native of Siberia. It 
belongs to the same genns as the wormwood, but its frag- 
rant smell and warm aromatic taste have introduced it 
into the kitchen garden. There is but one variety culti- 
vated. 

Culture. — This plant does not require a rich soil, and as 
it is a native of a cold climate, it is best to give it a bleak 
winter exposure. Poor dry earth is necessary to perfect 
its flavor. Tarragon is propagated by seed, slips, cuttings 
and parting of the root. The latter is the easiest mode 
and most generally practised. It may be planted in Feb- 
ruary, the plants being ten inches apart. Give a little 
water in dry weather until they are rooted. As they run 
up, if seed is not desired, cut down the seed stalks and 
they will shoot up afresh. Keep them free from weeds. 
It has been cultivated here with success. 

Vse. — Tarragon is used in salads to correct the coldness 
of other herbs. Its leaves are excellent pickled or for 
flavoring vinegar to be used for fish sauces or with horse- 
radish for beef steaks. 

Asparagus Officinalis — Aspa R agus. 

This plant has been cultivated as a garden vegetable, 
for at least two thousand years. Cato, 150 years before 
Christ, gives a full detail of its mode of culture among the 
Homans. Its culture originated probably in Greece, for 
its name is pure Greek, and signifies a bud not fully opened ; 
and it is known throughout Europe, by names derived or 
corrupted from the Greek. 



ASPARAGUS. 



149 



The wild asparagus is found native in Japan, and on 
tlie sea coasts of most parts of Europe. 

In its wild state, tlie stem is not thicker than a goose- 
quill. From this plant, by the aid of manure and culture, 
our delicious garden varieties were raised. Miller has 
succeeded in effecting the same result in modern times. 

There are only two varieties of asparagus of any im- 
portance, the green and the red-topped. The latter with 
purplish green shoots, is the one principally cultivated. 
There are some sub-varieties, but these derive all their 
merit from superior cultivation. 

The following analysis of asparagus is by Thomas 
Richardson : 



Potassa, .... 


. 6.01 


Soda, .... 


. 34.21 


Lime, .... 


. 4.39 


Magnesia, 
Sulphuric Acid, 


3.03 
. 4.13 


Silicic Acid, . 


. 13.47 


Phosphoric Acid, 
Phosphate of Iron, 
Chloride of Sodium, . 


. 18.51 

3.31 

. 12.94 



100.00 

The per-centage of ash was only iVo of a pound, from one 
hundred pounds of the undried plant. 

In other analyses of asparagus the proportion of soda is 
considably reduced. Asparagus, like some other plants 
has the power of substituting the other alkalies, lime and 
potash, in the place of soda. 

All of the analyses exhibit larger proportions of chloride 
of sodium, or its elements, clb^lorine and sodium, also of phos- 
phoric acid. 

In the present instance, over three-fifths of the inorganic 
elements of the plant, are made up of these constituents. 



150 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

This very clearly explains why salt and sea-weed are found 
so beneficial, and shows that the application of bone ma- 
nure, or superphosphate of lime, in connexion with animal 
manures, may be beneficial. In the analysis of the wild 
plant, the proportion of these elements is quite as large. 

Culture. — Asparagus is propagated only by seed, one 
ounce of which will produce a thousand plants. Sow the 
seed any time in February, or early in March. It likes a 
fresh and deep sandy loam, the richer the better — as free 
as possible from all shade of trees or shrubs. Soak the 
seed twenty -four hours before planting, and it will come up 
earlier ; draw the drills one foot apart, and with a dibble 
make holes six inches distant, in which drop two or three 
seeds. Let the seed be covered an inch deep, and press 
the earth upon it. In very dry weather the seed-beds 
should be frequently watered. If unable to sow as early 
as directed, shade must be given to the bed, for which pur- 
pose pineboughs are well suited. These should be removed 
nights and cloudy days. Care musf be taken to keep the 
seed-bed light and free from weeds, though this operation 
must be delayed until the plants appear well above ground. 
If two plants appear in the same hole, the weaker must be 
removed as soon as that point can be determined. Trans- 
planted, these will make pretty good plants by fall. If 
they are to remain in the seed-bed until spring, which is 
best, when the stems are withered, cut them down and 
spread well-rotted stable dung over the bed two inches 
deep, which will increase the vigor of the plants the next 
year, and also protect them from frost. 

Asparagus treated in this manner will perfect seed the 
first year in this climate, and the roots one year old, make 
quite as good beds as if allowed to remain in the seed-plot 
another year. You may plant them out safely in autumn 
or any time during the winter, choosing a mild cloudy day, 



ASPARAGUS. 151 

and protecting them when planted with a covering of ma- 
nure overspread with litter ; but the best time to transplant 
is when the plants begin to grow early in the spring, for if 
they remain torpid during two or three months, some of 
them will die, and all will be weakened. 

As it should be a matter of pride to have this delicacy 
as early as possible, choose a site where the bed can be 
fully exposed to the sun. If you wish to prolong its season, 
another bed may be planted on a northern expos lo. The 
subsoil should be dry, and if not naturally so, must 1 e w^ell 
drained. It must be dug up thoroughly at least tv» o and 
a-half feet deep, the poor soil removed, and its place sup- 
plied with rich light loam. On a plot of four square rods, 
sow from seventy-five to a hundred pounds of fine salt, 
and dig it in four or five inches deep. Asparagus is a sea- 
shore plant, and salt will not hurt it ; but is life and nour- 
ishment to it. Bury your manure and mix it well through- 
out the whole depth, as you can hardly make the ground 
too rich. Asparagus will groiv, it is true, without all this 
trouble, but the size, sweetness and tenderness of the 
shoots, Avill pay for doing the work in the best manner. 

After taking out the soil the bottom should be covered 
with at least six inches of well-rotted manure, as this can 
never be reached after the roots are once planted. Inter- 
mix nearly as much more throughout the bed, except the 
top four or five inches, as the manure should not come in 
contact with the fresh roots. So manured and deeply dug, 
the plants will send down their roots too deeply to fear a 
drought. 

Make the beds four and a half feet wide, and the paths 
two feet in width between the beds. 

The plants should be carefully taken up without injury, 
choosing a mild cloudy day, but the ground must not be 
wet, A narrow dungfork is a good instrument for the 



152 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

purpose. Lay the roots separately and evenly together, 
that they may not be entangled and injured while plant- 
ing ; keep them while planting in a basket covered with a 
little sand. Plant your first row by straining a line four 
inches from the edge of the bed ; then with your spade 
cut out a trench six inches deep with the side next the line 
perpendicular, in which set the plants twelve inches apart, 
if good large heads are desired. Place the roots against 
the perpendicular side of the trench, and spread them out 
evenly in the bottom of the trench, and cover them by 
drawing back tlie earth regvilarly over the plants about 
two inches deep. Draw the line again fifteen inches from 
the first, and proceed as above, leaving a path two feet wide, 
four inches from every fourth row. Some plant lettuce 
and radishes between the rows, but it is not advisable, 
though a crop of cabbages may be made in the alleys. 
After the beds have been planted, rake them smooth, 
and do not tread between the rows. Keep the edges 
of the bed smoothly trimmed and even. The beds 
are made narrow to avoid the necessity of treading upon 
them with the feet, as they should be left as light as pos- 
sible, for lasting from ten to twenty years without work- 
ing, the rains will render them compact, and walking upon 
them would be very injurious. Water them daily in dry 
weather until the plants are well-rooted. Watering in 
dry weather in summer also is very beneficial. All weeds 
must be removed as they appear. As salt applied while 
the plants are young, is an excellent manure for this plant, 
the weeds may be easily kept down by its application. 
Old brine or refuse salt, in which meat or fish has been 
packed, is better than any other, as it abounds in the 
blood and juices of the meat, which are a most valuable 
fertilizer. You need not fear applying too much salt, as 
old beds have been covered an inch deep, and the plants 



ASPARAGUS. 153 

continued to thrive ; but a sprinkling just sufficient to 
make the soil look white, is enough. As soon as the plantis 
have turned jellow in the fall, cut them down close to the 
ground, but be careful not to do this early, or they will 
throw up new shoots and be much weakened. Remove 
the stalks and all weeds from the beds — cover the beds 
with three or four inches of good stable manure, and let 
them remain until time for the spring dressing. If you 
have charcoal dust at command, a layer of an inch thick 
over the manure will be found quite useful in preventing 
the loss of ammonia. When the weather grows Avarm, the 
latter part of February, with a three-tined asparagus or 
manure*fork, dig in the manure placed on the beds in the 
fall, and loosen the earth four inches deep, taking care not 
to wound the crowns of the plants. Give the beds a top- 
dressing of salt as soon as growth commences, and water 
freely in dry weather. Applications of liquid manure are 
likewise very salutary. A good liquid manure for aspara- 
gus is an ounce of guano and four ounces of salt to two 
gallons of water. Guano or night soil composted with 
charcoal, so as to be entirely inodorous, is also beneficially 
applied at any time. Another slight covering of charcoal 
dust, after the spring dressing, will be of service, and 
make the shoots earlier. Until the bed is two years old, 
the alleys should be also deeply dug and well-manured, 
as the plants will derive much nourishment from them. 
After that period the roots will extend so widely that they 
cannot be worked without injury. 

When the bed is one year old, it may, if it has been 
well-treated, be sparingly gathered from. The plants, if 
the season has been good, will be almost as well grown as 
those a year older at the North. It should be cut before 
the heads loose their compact form, when only four or five 
inches above the ground. Remove the earth to the bot- 
7* 



164 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

torn of the stalk, and cut it off sloping with a pointed knife, 
taking care not to wound any other shoots that ' may be 
near it, as they are constantly putting forth from the 
crowns. Too many shoots should not be cut from the 
beds, nor the gathering prolonged too late. Whenever 
the bed puts up weak and small shoots, these should be 
allowed to remain, Avhich will increase the size of the 
remaining shoots, and the future value of the bed. When 
green peas become plentiful, it is high time the asparagus 
bed should rest. After the cutting ceases, you may judge 
from the size of the summer shoots the productiveness of 
the bed the coming spring. These elaborate the food for 
the future crop. The manure applied in autumn %as but 
little effect on the next spring's shoots, but from its influ- 
ence, the strong growth of the succeeding summer will 
prepare an abundant supply of large shoots the second 
spring. The spring and autumn dressings should be con- 
tinued while the bed lasts. Beds will remain productive 
ten or fifteen years. By planting a hot-bed thickly with 
thrifty roots, it comes into bearing in four weeks, and 
affords asparagus for a month in the winter season. Give 
plenty of air in mild weather. 

For Seed. — Reserve some of the best shoots in the 
spring, and mark them by placing a stake by each one, and 
let them run up and ripen their seeds. Take shoots with 
fine, round, close heads ; fasten them as they grow up to 
the stake, and the seed will ripen better. Gather the seed 
when ripe, and wash off the pulp and husk, which will 
pass off with the water, if gently poured off, and the seeds 
will sink to the bottom. Dry them thoroughly, and store 
away for use. They are, for your own sowing, just as well 
kept and sown in the pulp. 

Asparagus seed will keep four years. 

Use. — The tender shoots thrown up in the spring when 



ORACH. 155 

from four or five inches long, are tlie parts in use, and are 
very delicate and much esteemed, though not very nutri- 
cious. They are excellent simply boiled, or as an addi- 
tion to soups when in season. 

To ccok Asparagus. — Select the large green stalks, wash 
them carefully, tie in bundles of twenty or thirty, put 
them into boiling water with plenty of salt ; boil slowly 
twenty minutes ; take them up with a skimmer without 
draining, and lay them upon toasted bread well but- 
tered. 

Another mode is to cut it into bits half an inch long, 
and boil the lower ends ten minutes before the points are 
put in ; then put in the points and boil ten minutes more ; 
serve as above. 

A triplex Hcrtensis —Orach. 

A hai-dy annual, a native of Tartary first cultivated by 
English gardeners in 1548. The stem rises three or four 
feet high with oblong variously-shaped leaves, cut at the 
edges, thick, pale green, and glaucous, and of slightly acid 
flavor, flowers of same color as the foliage. There are 
two varieties, the pale green, and the red or purple 
leaved. 

Culture. — Orach flourishes best in a rich, moist soil. 
It is raised from seed sown in drills, fifteen to eighteen 
inches apart, the first of October. The plants soon make 
appearance ; when an inch high thin them to four inches 
asunder. Those removed may be replanted, being watered 
occasionally until established. Hoe them in a dry day, 
keeping the ground loose and free from weeds. 

Use. — The leaves and tender stalks are cooked and 
eaten like spinach, to which it is preferred by many. 
They must be gathered while young, or they are worthless. 
It belongs to the chenopods, Jerusalem oak tribe of 



156 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

plants ; a family whose wliolesomeness is very suspicious. 
Its seeds are said to excite vomiting. 

Birbarea Precox — American Cress. 

A biennial plant, Avith yellow flowers, tlie radical leaves 
of whicli are lyre sliaped, and the upper ones pinnatified, 
and cultivated in some gardens as a winter salad. Often 
it is called watercress at the South. 

Sow either in drills or broadcast in a moist place, the 
last of August, September, or early in October, giving 
water in dry, hot weather. Let the plants remain six or 
eight inches apart. Preserve a few good plants for seed. 

Use. — It is generally liked as a winter or early spring 
salad somewhat like the watercress, but more bitter. 

Barlareci Vulgaris — Winter Cress. 

Resembles the foregoing, but is a perrennial plant with 
larger leaves. The use and culture are the same. Less 
bitter than the foregoing. 

Beta — Beet. 

Of this genus there are two species cultivated in gar- 
dens, viz. : Beta Cicla, and Beta Vulgaris — the latter of 
t which has many varieties. 

Beta Vulgaris — Common Beet. 

This is a biennial plant, a native of the seacoasts of the 
south of Europe, and is said to have been cultivated for 
its beautiful red roots long before its edible properties 
were discovered. 

It was introduced into England by Tradescant, in the 
year 1656. Its name is said to come from the resem- 
blance of its seed to the letter Beta of the Greek alphabet. 



BEET. 167 

The catalogues contain a large number, of varieties of 
■which the best are : 

Extra Early Turnip, cr Bassano Beet. — The root is 
oval; color, pale red. Downing truly says "it is the 
sweetest, most tender, and delicate of all beets;" but the 
color boils out, so that it is not as beautiful as some others, 
yet it is the best early beet and one of the easiest grown. 
It is at least a week earlier than the Early Turnip Beet, 
an excellent variety that succeeds it. 

Radish Beet. — Is named from its similarity to the scarlet 
radish in shape, though much larger. Color, very dark 
blood red. Roots of this variety over a-half yard long 
are not unusual. Its quality is excellent. 

Londcn Blocd Beet. — Is a brilliant, dark-colored beet of 
good form, and of a sweet and delicate flavor. The best 
of the late beets. 

These beets are best for family use, but if the seeds are 
not obtainable, the Early Blood Turnip Rooted, Early 
Long Blood, Extra Dark Blood, and White's New Blood, 
are all good varieties. The Early Long Blood grows 
several inches above ground, and is more easily gathered 
than any other variety. 

The ashes of the beet root have been analyzed by Etti, 
who found them to contain the following constituents : — 



Potassa, 


. 19,51 


Soda, . . , . . 


21.12 


Lime, .... 


. 3.25 


Magnesia, .... 


6.96 


Sesquioxide of Iron, 


.09 


Sulphuric Acid, . 


2.46 


Carbonic Acid. 


. 29.10 


Phosphoric Acid, 


2.39 


Chloride of lodium. 


. 2.35 


Sand and Silicic Acid, 


14.11 



101.34 



168 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

The beet being a native of the sea-shore abounds in soda, 
which can be supplied when deficient by an application of 
common salt the autumn before planting. This and leached 
or unleached ashes will afford nearly all the inorganic ele- 
ments of the crop. 

Beets can be planted in this climate, at any time from 
January to March, and as late as April, with a little care 
in shading and watering. 

When the surface soil is rich and the bottom poor, it 
will be difficult to make the beet, carrot, and other tap- 
rooted, plants produce fine, smooth roots. This difficulty 
will cease if the ground be deeply and thoroughly worked, 
mingling the soil and making it uniform throughout, and 
taking care to place at the depth of one foot below the 
surface a layer of good manure. 

The best beets grow in sandy bottom lands, but any soil 
will answer for them if deeply and thoroughly worked 
and well manured. This is necessary with all tap-rooted 
plants, and especially with the beet. Beet seed is some- 
what slow in vegetating, and the later sowings may be 
soaked in water twenty-four hours before planting ; make 
the beds four or four and a-half feet wide for convenience 
of culttivaing ; spade them up at least a foot deep, 
eighteen inches is still better ; mix in a good supply of 
well-rotted manure throughout, if the ground requires it. 
Rake the ground even and smooth, and mark out the 
rows twelve inches apart across the bed ; draw the drills 
an inch and a-half or two inches deep, in which drop the 
seed two inches apart, and press the earth gently upon it. 
When the plants are up, thin them to six or eight inches 
apart, and keep the ground around them loose and free 
from weeds. 

In planting crops of beets, carrots, and parsnips, par- 
ticularly the two latter, it is well to sprinkle aftw radish 



BEET. 159 

seed in the rows to distlngiiisli them. The radishes will 
be up in a week, and the ground can be hoed or weeded 
without any danger of destroying the young plants; and 
pulling the radishes is cultivation to the young crop. 
Drills can also be made between every two rows of beets, 
making a drill every six inches, which can also be sown 
with radishes or lettuce plants. 

I would never think of making beds exclusirely for lettuce 
plants or radishes, as these can be grown between other 
vegetables without the loss of any room. But the ground 
must be very rich, as all garden soil should be, to bring 
forward both crops to perfection. 

For early beets it is well to prepare a good bed under 
glass in which the rows should be marked out a foot apart. 
The ground should be deeply spaded and thoroughly 
manured. Mark out your rows for the beets, and between 
the first two draw a drill in which you can sow your early 
York cabbage; between the next two you can raise all the 
butter lettuce you wish to set out for heading. In the 
rows of beets themselves you may sprinkle a a few radish 
seed ; then a row of later head lettuce, tomatoes, egg-plant, 
peppers, &c. The drills retained for the beets should be 
sown in this climate with tlie Bassano beet about the tenth 
of January. By the time the hard frosts are over, the 
beets, cabbages, &c., will be fit to transplant. Thin out 
to six inches apart, planting out those pulled up in the 
open ground. In transplanting the beet a deep hole should 
be made with a dibble, and the root not bent. Those that 
remain in the bed will soon come into use, and by the time 
they are gone the transplanted ones will come on for a 
succession. For very late beets, sow in a cool, moist 
place early in April ; May or June would be still better, 
if the sowings were not so difficult to keep from being killed 
by the sun. Press the earth on the seed, and shade a 



160 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

little until the plants come up ; being sown later they will 
keep much better, and indeed can be had in pretty good 
condition through the entire winter. For this sowing, the 
London blood beet is tlie best. A few radish seed may 
be sown with them ; after they come up they must be 
thinned to ten inches apart, kept clean, and frequently 
hoed — keeping the soil light and mellow. Any vacant 
spaces in the row can be filled by transplanting. About 
the middle of November, or when there is danger of a hard 
frost, the roots can be taken up, dried a little and stored away 
in casks with layers of dry sand, where they will keep in 
good condition until spring. The mangel wurtzel beet is 
much cultivated in some countries for feeding stock, and is 
very good for the table when young and tender, but in our 
long season it loses its sweetness before winter. Here 
the sweet-potato, ruta-baga and other turnips are more 
promising. 

For Seed. — Select a few of the finest looking plants, 
smooth and well-shaped. Plant the different varieties as 
far apart as possible, indeed it is better to save the seed 
of only one kind the same year for fear of intermixture 
and degeneracy. Keep them free from weeds and tie the 
seed stalks to stakes to support them. Gather and dry 
the seed as soon as ripe and put away in paper bags. 
Keep dry and it will be good for ten years. 

Use. — The young and tender tops are an excellent sub- 
stitute for spinach. When thinned out, the young beets 
pulled up, if cooked tops and bottoms, are very sweet and 
and delicate. 

When well grown they afford an agreeable variety to 
our table vegetables, being tender, sweet, and consider- 
ably nourishing. They also make an excellent pickle. 
If eaten moderately, they are wholesome, but in too large 
a quantity produce flatulence and indigestion. The leaves 



WHITE BEET. 161 

are said to abound in nitre ; the roots are full of sugar, 
and are largely cultivated in France for its manufacture. 

To Boil, — Wash the beets, but do not cut or scrape 
them. Boil fi-om two to three hours (one hour will do 
when they are young); Avhen quite tender take them up 
and plunge them into cold water for a minute or two, and 
the outside skin will peel off easily. If they are young 
beets they are best split into long pieces and seasoned 
Avith pepper and butter ; otherwise, slice them thin, when 
quite cold, and pour vinegar over them. 

When the beets get old they loose a good deal of their 
sweetness, and are made fit for the table by sprinkling 
each layer of beets when cut up while still hot with pow- 
dered sugar, and after the slices have dissolved and ab- 
sorbed this, add the vinegar and spices. 

7b Pickh. — Boil them sufficiently tender to easily put a 
fork through them; put them into cold vinegar, with a 
little salt, set them in a cool place, and stir them often to 
prevent any scum from rising. 

Beta Cida — Swiss Chard, or White Beet 

This is also called the sea-kale beet. There are two varie- 
ties, the white and the green, which receive their names 
from the color of their foot-stalks. Either of these is 
good. The plant very much resembles the common beet, 
but the leaves and the stalks are much larger, thicker, 
more tender and succulent, and less capable of resisting 
frost. 

The root of this plant is small, coarse, and of no value, 
only the leaves and their stalks are employed, especially 
the latter, which are cooked and eaten as asparagus. 

Culture. — The culture is exactly the same as the com- 
mon beet, except the plants should be twelve or more 
inches apart. The soil may be richer and not so deep. 



162 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

and the plants are more benefited by copious watering, 
especially with liquid manure. The beds should be four 
feet wide for convenience in culture. For winter use, the 
leaves may be covered with litter and afford blanched leaf 
stalks all winter. If the soil be moist and kept mellow, 
and free from Aveeds, it will yield bountifully. Salt is a 
beneficial manure for this crop, applied while preparing 
the ground, as it keeps it moist. It is singular that a 
plant of so easy culture and yielding during the entire 
season after May a supply of the most delicate greens, has 
not come into more general cultivation. Those who have 
cultivated it once in good soil will hardly be willing to do 
without it. To preserve seed, see " Beta Vulgaris." 

Use. — The leaves, stalks, and all are boiled as summer 
greens ; or the midrib and stalk may be peeled and boiled 
separately from the rest of the leaf and prepared as 
asparagus for which they are an excellent substitute. In 
gathering, the largest outside leaves should first be taken 
and the inner ones left to increase in size, taking care to 
gather them while still perfectly green and vigorous. 
The leaf-stalks are greatly improved if earthed-up like 
celery. 

To Boil. — Strip the leaves from their stalks ; boil them 
very quickly ; drain and press very close, and serve with 
melted butter. The stalks tie in bundles ; boil till tender ; 
dress, and serve as asparagus. 

Brassica — The Cabbage Tribe. 

This tribe, perhaps the most important cultivated in our 
gardens, includes the cabbage, turnip, cauliflower, broccoli, 
Brussels, sprouts, rape, and kale. It seems to be one of 
the most ancient in cultivation, and was a well-known 
favorite with the Eomans. Lindley observes, that of this 
genus there are nearly a thousand species scattered over 



CABBAGE TRIBE. 163 

the face of the earth, of which all are harmless, and many- 
are highly useful. 

For the seed-bed the soil should be a moist loam, but 
more dry in the case of plants which are to stand the 
winter. 

For final production most plants of this genus like a 
fresh, moderately clayey loam, very rich. A moist cool 
bottom suits them admirably ; such of them as are to stand 
the winter in the open ground should be grown in a lighter 
soil, not over rich. Good well decomposed stable manure 
is usually employed in preparing the soil for this genus. 
Pure hog manure is objectionable, as it causes any of the 
cabbage tribe to become clump-rooted and loose their 
regularity of shape ; if mixed with a very large proportion 
of leaf mould, or other carbonaceous matter, and thoroughly 
decomposed, it ceases to be objectionable. A plentiful 
application of salt the autumn before planting, say at the 
rate of eight or ten bushels per acre, is very beneficial to 
this tribe as it destroys the cutworm and keeps the soil 
moist and cool. Bone-dust and especially superphosphate 
of lime has a very surprising effect upon them, far more 
than analysis would lead one to suppose. 

The ground is advantageously dug twice the depth of a 
spade, and should be well pulverized by the operation. 
All of the cabbage tribe are particularly benefited by 
frequent and deep cultivation ; they especially like to have 
the soil about them thoroughly worked whik the clew is on 
them. There will be a very great difference in the growth 
of two plats of cabbages treated alike in other respects, 
one of which shall be hoed at sunrise, and the other at 
mid-day; the growth of the former will surprisingly exceed 
that of the latter. But you cannot hoe the cabbage tribe 
too much for their benefit even if daily. The situation 
must be open and free from all shade or drip of trees ; if 



164 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

shaded from the mid-day sun, it is an advantage, but it 
must not be by trees. In the shade of trees and other 
confined situations, they are much more subject to be 
infested with caterpillars, and to grow weak and spindling 
In planting out, any of which the roots are knotted and 
clumped should be rejected. 

Brassica Olcracea — Cabbag*e. 

This vegetable has been long in cultivation. Pliny 
mentions the headed varieties, and it was then held in 
high esteem, not only as an esculent, but for its supposed 
medicinal properties ; it is a sea-shore plant, indigenous in 
various parts of Europe and in England; the wild variety 
is known as sea colewort, bearing but a few leaves, and 
those far from palatable, unless boiled in two waters to 
remove its saltness. The cultivated variety Avas probably 
introduced into England by the Romans, and the common 
name doubtless comes from the Latin Caput or head. 
This is one of the most useful crops in cultivation. Cab- 
bages are eatable almost from the time they leave the seed 
bed until they have acquired a hard close head ; it is a 
crop that can be put on every bit of otherwise idle ground. 
It can be planted between beds and rows of any and every- 
thing else to be eaten as greens when young, or left to 
head on the coming off of other crops, and if there should 
be a superabundance above the wants of the family and 
servants, nothing is better for the cow and the pig. For 
early cabbage it is necessary to rely upon English seed, as 
the seed of the early varieties, saved in this country grow 
later by our culture, soil and climate. For late cabbage, 
the American seeds are superior to the imported, and pro- 
duce finer and larger heads. No seed for late cabbage is 
better than our own, if saved from fine large heads. But 
all the late cabbages in this hot climate without proper 



CABBAGE. 165 

care, are prone to degenerate and run up into collards. 
There are many varieties of cabbage. The best varieties 
I have cultivated are the following: — 

Early York has been cultivated for more than a century. 
Heads small, a little heart shaped and very firm ; its small 
size enables it to be grown in rows a foot apart each way, 
giving over 40,000 heads to the acre. Its earliness and 
fine delicate flavor make it a favorite, as the very best 
early sort for general purposes. 

Large Early York, or Landreth Large York, succeeds 
the above, and is equally desirable. It is of larger size, 
not quite so early and more robust, and bears the heat 
better, and in this latitude will often continue in eating all 
summer. 

Early Dutch is an excellent variety that connects the 
early and late sorts, and is one of the very best in culture. 
It is succeeded by the 

Flat Dutch or drumhead, which is a large spreading, 
short-stemmed variety, flat on the top, close headed, firm in 
texture, and if headed late keeps well and is of better 
flavor than 

Bergen, which is also a drumhead cabbage, but larger; 
a little coarser and one of the best for late keeping. 

Green Glazed, in this climate is a more sure variety, 
as it is more capable of resisting the caterpillar and other 
insects which infest the other varieties, but it is a coarse 
variety with very loose heads. 

Red Dutch, used principally for pickling, and should be 
sown at the same time with the drumheads. Early York 
and Flat Dutch are the best of the above kinds. 

The analysis of the drumhead cabbage is given below. 
One thousand pounds of the plant when burned, produced 
eight pounds and four tenths of ash, which was composed 
of the folio win D- constituents : — 



166 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



Silicic Acid, . 




.06 


Sulphuric Acid, 
Phosphoric Acid, . 


• 


. 1.12 
1.27 


Phosphate of Iron, . 
Lime, . 


• 


. .12 
.29 


Magnesia, 
Potash, 


• 


. .35 
2.09 


Soda, 


, , 


. 3.02 


Chlorine, 




.08 



The above analysis is by J. H. Salisbury, who also 
analyzed several other varieties. He found them all to 
contain a very large proportion of azote ; after evaporating 
the water, drumhead cabbage gives of azote 17.899 parts 
in a hundred; savoy 20.763; red 16.212; turnip rooted 
19.052. We also find this plant remarkably rich in phos- 
phorus and sulphur, hence its unpleasant smell in decay, 
like that of animal matter. It abounds also in soda and 
potash. Hence, common salt to yield soda and chlorine, 
wood ashes for potash, bone for phosphoric acid, and 
gypsum, to add sulphur and lime together with a soil 
saturated with manure of animals, especially the liquid 
excretion, all come in play in making fine cabbage. 
Frequent stirring the soil, too, will rob the atmosphere of 
its ammonia for the same purpose. 

Culture. — For early use seeds of the Early York may 
be sown from January to March. If sown as early as the 
1st of January, cover them slightly with litter to protect 
from frosts ; but it is much better to sow them under a 
cold frame as directed in the article " Beet." If sown in 
the open air, as soon as the weather grows mild, take off 
the litter. The seed should be sown in drills, six inches 
apart, and one inch deep, and the ground deeply dug, but 
it need not be, for this sowing, very rich. Water in mild 
mornings if the weather be dry, and give them the advan- 
tage of the rains ; give the young plants plenty of air 



CABBAGE. 167 

every mild day, and by the time the weather will admit, 
they will be ready to transplant. At this sowing should 
also be put in a few seed of the Large York and Early 
Dutch to succeed the early crop. 

Early cabbage seed may also be sown early in Septem- 
ber or October in the open ground ; watering every two 
or three evenings when dry, as it usually is this month. 
The plants will appear in about a week, and a little soot 
should be scattered over them to prevent the attacks of 
insects. When large enough to transplant, they can be 
set very thick in a cold frame or box, to stand over the 
Avinter. Cover over with glass, or boards if you have not 
glass, during severe weather, but give air every mild day 
and set out when the weather grows mild in the spring. 
A still better way is, instead of putting the plants in a 
frame, throw a piece of ground into high ridges, two feet 
apart, running east and west. On the south side of these 
ridges, set out the plants a foot apart, so that they will be 
shielded from the cold north winds, and enjoy the full 
warmth of the sun. Plant on the sides of the ridges and 
not in the trench. When the weather grows severe in 
December, cover slightly with straw or litter ; remove it 
when mild weather returns, and cultivate as usual, gra- 
dually levelling the ridges, and you will have cabbages 
earlier than by any other mode ; the ground should be 
good. If you raise your plants in the cold frame they 
will be ready to transplant from the 20th to the last of 
February. They will be very liable to be eaten off by 
the cutworm Avhen transplanted. There are two modes 
of preventing this, either of which, with me, is perfectly 
satisfactory. The best method is to sow the ground in- 
tended for cabbage the autumn after being spaded up, with 
salt at the rate of eight bushels per acre. On a part of my 



1(33 GAKDExMNG FOR THE SOUTH. 

garden thus treated last November, I have not found a 
cutworm this year (1852). If this has been done you 
may plant your Early Yorks at a distance of twelve inches 
each way. If you have not already sown your cabbage 
plat with salt, there is another plan to keep off the cut- 
worm equally successful. Throw your ground into ridges 
and trenches sixteen inches apart ; let these trenches be 
at least six inches deep. In the bottom of these trans- 
plant your cabbages, one foot apart. Some use a dibble, 
hut a trowel is much better, as it does not leave the soil 
hard. Prepare your ground in dry Aveather, but choose a 
moist day for transplanting. It is a good plan to wet the 
roots before planting out. When they get rooted stir the 
soil gently about them, but do not fill up the trenches 
until the plants are so large that there is no danger of the 
worm. This method of protecting cabbages was pointed 
out to me by a negro gardener several years since, and 
I have tried it repeatedly. The worm will not go doAvn 
into the trenches to destroy the plants. 

When the plants get strong the ground should be deeply 
and repeatedly hoed. T)6 this while the dew is on, and 
retain its ammonia in the soil. The cabbage is partial to 
moisture, so hoe it frequently, and when you go out in the 
morning you will find the plat moist with dew, while the 
unstirred soil around is dry as ever. The only secret in 
raising early cabbage is, set your plants in rich ground 
and sti?' t/ie roil. On poor ground (and even on rich if half 
tended) they will run into collards. i^-tir fhe soil and less 
manure is required. 

For the middle crop to last through the summer, the 
seed can be sown as above, or any time until the middle 
of March. The cultivation is the same, except that the 
plants should be set about sixteen to eighteen inches apart. 



CABBAGE. 169 

The varieties are the Large York and Early Dutch. These 
■will not head unless the ground be rich, rather moist, and, 
above all, diligently worked. 

The late crop and the Red Dutch, for pickling, you 
may sow in February or March, or any other time there- 
after, until the 1st of August. The best time is about the 
1st of April. The early sown should not be transplanted 
until July or August. Let the ground be well-spaded, and 
thoroughl}' manured. They must be set in ike ground up to 
the first leaf, no matter how long the stem may he, or they will 
not head. They also require a rich soil, but not from fresh 
manure. The manure for the cabbage crop should be 
thoroughly decomposed, or the plants will be covered with 
aphides or cabbage lice. The best way is to throw the 
ground into ridges from two to two and a half feet apart, 
making the trenches between more or less deep, according 
to the length of the stems ; wet the roots thoroughly and 
transplant in moist weather, carefully transplanting them 
with a trowel, and when the ground gets dry draw the 
earth level, which should just reach up to the lov/er leaves. 
If seed of any of the cabbage tribe be sown after the 
weather grows warm, the soil must be pressed upon it by 
walking on a board, and it must be shaded by a covering 
of boards or pine brush during the day, removing it at night, 
until the plants get a little established. If the weather is 
warm and wet, the covering may be dispensed Avith. 

After the late cabbages are transplanted let them be 
well cultivated by deep and frequent hoeing, and don't 
strip off the lower leaves if you wish them to head. 

Many remedies are employed to keep off the green 
worm, so destructive to the cabbage tribe. An infusion of 
tobacco or of the ripe berries of the Pride of China tree, 
sprinkled on them once or twice a week from a water-pot, 
is said to be effectual. Sprinkling with ashes is a good 



170 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

practice ; also to coop a brood of chickens near, as they 
destroy the worm without injury to the cabbage. Break off 
a leaf at night and place it on the top of the head. In the 
morning early most of the Avorms will be on this leaf. Brush 
them off into a dish of soapsuds. Repeat this daily until the 
worms are destroyed. Aphides are not so apt to be trouble- 
some when the plants are in vigorous growth ; an applica- 
tion of strong soapsuds generally destroys them. Dry 
charcoal dust mixed with Scotch snuff and dusted over them 
is however, the most certain remedy. Air-slacked lime in 
which a few drops of spirits of turpentine have been dif- 
fused, will generally drive away both aphides and the 
green worm. The green glazed not being liable to be at- 
tacked by worms or insects is much the most reliable for a 
late crop, if it was only as good for the table. 

To 'preserve Cahbage. — Heel them in, in a dry situation, 
to their lower leaves, and cover slightly with plank, straw 
or pine brush, to keep them from freezing and thawing 
during the winter. 

To save Seed. — This should be attempted in this climate 
only with the late varieties which should be planted at a 
distance from turnips and all other members of this family, 
or they will intermix. Set out some of the best heads in 
the spring, support the stems as they rise by stakes, and 
gather the seed before it scatters. Seed will keep four 
years. 

Use. — Cabbage as an article of food is not so remark- 
able for its fattening properties as for its power of supply- 
ing strength for labor by producing muscle and bone, which 
it owes to its abundant nitrogen and phosphates. Hence 
it is very nutritious for, and much relished by laboring 
people in all parts of the world, but is apt to disagree 
with those of quiet and sedentary habits. With the latter 
U is more ivholes&me and digestible if eaten uncocked. Many 



SAVOY CABBAGE. 171 

persons can eat " cold slaugh" with impunity that are un- 
able to use boiled cabbage without great inconvenience. 
It is by many much relished when made into sauer kraut. 
It is also pickled. 

To Boil. — Remove the loose leaves quarter the stump 
end of the cabbage, wash it perfectly clean, and boil from 
half an hour to an hour. If not boiled with salt meat, add 
a little salt ; a little saleratus improves its color. — Mrs. 
Webster. 

Sauer Kraut. — Shred very finely six white cabbages, 
having cut out the stalks ; mix with them half a pound 
of salt, and press them as closely as possible into a cask ; 
put over a cloth, then a wooden cover, and upon that a 
heavy weight ; let it stand in a warm cellar two months, 
keeping the liquor that rises on it, and it will be fit for use ; 
it should then be removed to a cooler place. — Mrs. Hale. 

Sauer kraut for the table should be boiled or stewed. 

To Pickle. Take off the outside leaves, quarter, cut 
out the stalk, shred the cabbage into a cullender and 
sprinkle with common salt ; let the cabbage remain a day 
or two, when drain it, put it into jars, and fill up with 
boiling vinegar ; add spices to your taste. 

Brassica Okracea Subauda — Savoy Cabbage. 

The Savoy, which is one of the best winter vegetables, 
probably derives its name from Savoy in Europe. It 
differs from the cabbage in the rugosity of its leaves. All 
its varieties are hardy, being rendered more sweet and 
tender by frost. The only two varieties of Savoy worthy 
of culture are : 

Curled Savoy. — An excellent winter variety, much im- 
proved in sweetness and tenderness by frost. It does not 
head firmly, but is very fine flavored, and even the outside 
leaves are tender and palatable. 



172 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Drumhead Savoy is almost as large and firm as the 
drumhead cabbage, and keeps very well. The head is 
round, flattened at top. It is nearly as delicate as the 
curled variety. 

The Savoys are not as certain a crop as the other 
cabbages, but far superior in delicacy. They are nearly 
equal to cauliflowers. 

The chemical composition of the Savoy is similar to 
that of other cabbages, but it contains two per cent, less 
water. It culture from seed is precisely the same as 
drumhead cabbage. For cooking, see " Cabbage." 

Brassica Oleracea Suhauda — (suh-variety) — Brussels 
Sprouts. 

This plant is a hardy variety of the Savoy, producing 
an elongated stem, often four feet high and crowned with 
leaves similar to the Savoy, in the axis of which spring 
small green heads like cabbages. The leaves dropping 
off" leave the little heads arranged spirally around the stem 
as the plant proceeds in growth. Like the other Brassicas, 
Brussels Sprouts are raised from seed, which may be sown 
in April. Set the plants in rows one and a half feet apart 
each way, and treat in all respects as directed for winter 
cabbage. Out off the leaves at the top of the stem 
some ten days or a fortnight before the little heads are 
gathered. 

For Seed. — Cut off the top of the stem and permit the 
flower stalks to spring from the little heads only. Keep 
at a distance from all the other varieties of Brassica if 
you would have pure seed. 

Use. — The top boiled for winter greens is very delicate 
in flavor and similar to the Savoy. But the little sprouts 
after they have been touched with frost, which very 
much improves them, are the parts most used. The 



GERMAN GREENS. 173 

sprouts are fit for use all winter, and may be left in tlie 
open ground. 

To Boil. — Soak tliem in clear water one hour, and wash 
free from dust and insects. Boil them twenty minutes or 
until tender in plenty of water. Drain them well, season 
with pepper, salt, &c., to taste, a sauce of cream or floured 
butter, in which stew them gently, stirring them con- 
stantly ; or they may be cooked simply as cabbages and 
eaten with meats. 

Brassica Ohracea Fimhriata — Borecole — German 
Greens. 

This is the easiest cultivated, and for this climate, one 
of the most valuable of the cabbage tribe. This plant has 
large curled or wrinkled leaves forming an open head or 
stool, and such a hardy constitution that it resists the 
severest frosts which serve only to improve it. It remains 
green and eatable all winter without the least protection. 

The only two varieties I have tried are the German 
Greens and the Siberian Kale, either one of which is good 
enough as far as quality or ease of culture is concerned. 
They can scarcely be distinguished, but the Siberian Kale 
is a perennial, and is perhaps preferable on that account 

Culture. — Eaised from seed like the rest of the cabbage 
tribe, which you may sow in April with your Avinter cab- 
bages and treat in the same manner. Transplant, if Ger- 
man Greens, into rows eighteen inches apart and twelve 
inches in the row. Give it a good soil. 

The other variety requires about the same spaces as 
with cabbage. I have an excellent crop growing this 
year, 18-52, sown the first of August, and treated exactly 
the same as Ruta Baga turnip. 

The outside leaves can be cut off for use when from 



174 GAEDENIXG FOR THE SOUTH. 

seven to nine inches long, leaving the others to come on in 
succession, affording a supply all winter. Its only enemy 
is the aphis or cabbage louse, for which try Scotch snuff 
and oil of turpentine. 

Seed. — Select some of the best heads and leave for seed, 
at a distance from any others of this family, and proceed 
as with cabbage. The seed will keep four years. 

Use. — This vegetable affords very delicate winter and 
spring greens, far superior to cabbage, and nearly equal 
to the Savoy. It boils well and is most delicate, sweet 
and tender when touched by frost. 

To boil. — Put in boiling water with a little salt, boil 
briskly twenty minutes, and serve as other greens. 

Brassica Oleracea Botrytis — Cauliflower. 

This plant was introduced into England from the Island 
of Cypress, in the early part of the seventeenth century. It 
is a kind of cabbage with long pale green leaves, surround- 
ing a mass or head of white flower buds — in-short, " a giant 
rose wrapped in a green surtout," but much more like a 
mass of fresh curds than a rose. Since its introduction, it 
has been much improved by the skill of the gardener. 
The seed is generally imported from Europe. 

Varieties. — There are several varieties early and late, 
but the late are the only ones that generally come to any- 
thing in this climate. Of the latter, there is the old variety, 
Late Dutch or Late London, which I have succeeded with, 
and is perhaps as good as any, though the late Walcheren 
comes highly recommended for hardiness, and may be 
worth a trial. 

The ashes of Cauliflower have been analyzed by 
Kichardson, and found to be composed of the following 
constituents : 



CAULIFLOWER. 




Potassa, 




34.39 


Soda, . - . 


>« • 


. 14.79 


Lime, 




2.96 


Magnesia, 


. , 


. 2.38 


Sulpliuric Acid, . 




11.16 


Silicic Acid, . 


. 


. 1.92 


Phosphoric Acid, 




25.84 


Phosphate of Iron, . 


. 


. 3.67 


Chloride of Sodium, 




2.78 



175 



99.89 



Cauliflower requires the same special manures as cab- 
bage. There is much less difficulty in its cultivation near 
the sea-shore than inland. The ground should receive a 
dressing of common salt as directed for cabbage. 

Culture. — It is very little use to try to raise the early 
cauliflower. Soay however in September, and cover 
through the w^inter in a frame ; transplanted into beds ten 
inches apart under glass, giving air as much as possible; 
plant out as early as is safe in February, carefully taking 
them up with a trowel, in order not to disturb the roots, 
placing them in rich ground two feet apart. Insert the 
stem in the earth nearly up to the first leaves. Shield 
them with boxes from heavy frosts and some will come to 
perfection. 

In a proper soil and location, the late varieties can be 
raised nearly as easy as cabbage. The best time to sow 
is about the first of April, though plants with care can 
be raised from that time until July. An ounce of seed 
will yield three or four thousand plants. The seed 
bed should be rich and deeply dug ; if the weather be dry, 
shade them a little by day until the seed gets up strong, 
and water them occasionally. The drills may be eight 
inches apart in the seed bed. Thin out the plants to six 
inches. They can be planted out at the same time with 



176 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

winter cabbage. Protect them from the cut-worm, and 
insects in the same manner. If possible, give them a plat 
of moist bottom soil, made very rich with well decomposed 
manure. Take them up carefully with a trowel that the 
roots may not be injured, and plant in rows two feet 
asunder each way; water freely when needed, which in 
dry weather is eveiy other day at least ; if with liquid 
manure so much the better. Let them never suffer from 
drought ; they will show when they need water by their 
drooping leaves. Soapsuds is an excellent application. 
Keep the ground hoed deeply and thoroughly about them, 
especially the day after each watering, that it may not bake. 

The hills should be hollowed about the cauliflower like a 
shallow basin to retain moisture. The head may be blanch- 
ed by bending the leaves and confining them loosely with a 
string. They will head in succession during the autumn. 

When a cauliflower has reached its full size, which is 
shown by the border opening as if about to seed, the plant 
should be pulled, and if laid entire in this state in a cool 
place may be kept several days. They should be pulled 
in the morning, for if gathered in the middle or evening of 
a hot day, it boils tough. When there is danger of severe 
frost injuring the cauliflowers that have not already 
headed, they may be protected by pine boughs or empty 
boxes or barrels where they stand — or pulled up with the 
earth attached to the roots, and removed to a cellar or out- 
building, where they will flower in succession all winter. 
In the low country this will hardly be necessary, and the 
spring crop is I believe more certain with them. 

For Seed. — Set out, in spring, some of the finest heads, 
with fine, close flower-buds, and proceed as with cabbage. 
It is very liable to intermix with the other Brassicas ; so 
that it is best to depend upon English seed. Seed will 
keep three or four years. 



BROCOLT. 177 

Use. — The heads or flowers boiled, generally wrapped 
in a clean linen cloth, are served np as a most delicate 
dish. " Of all the flowers in the garden," says Dr. John- 
son, " give me the cauliflower." It is one of the very best 
of vegetable products, and so prized Avherever known. It 
is nutritious and wholesome even for invalids, beside being 
a very ornamental addition to the table. 

To Boil. — Cut off the green leaves, and look carefully 
that there are no caterpillars about the stalk ; soak an 
hour in cold water, with a handful of salt in it ; then boil 
them in milk and water, and take care to skim the sauce- 
pan, that not the least foulness may fall on the flower. It 
must be served up very white, and rather crimp, with 
sauce, gravy, or melted butter. — Mrs. Hale. 

Brassica Oleracea Botrytis Cymosa — Brocoli. 
This plant differs from cauliflower in its undulating 
leaves, its larger size, and its color. It is supposed to have 
originated from the cauliflower; is a hardier plant, but not so 
delicate in flavor. It has been cultivated about two hundred 
years, and was introduced into England from Italy. Brocoli 
is raised much more easily than cauliflower. The purple 
cape brocoli, producing large brownish heads, very close and 
compact, is the best for this climate. The analysis of broc- 
oli, by Richardson, shows the following constituents : 

Potassa, 
Soda, 
Lime, . 
Magnesia, 
Sulphuric acid, 
Silicic acid. 
Phosphoric acid, . 
Phosphate of Iron, . 
Chloride of Potassium, 
Chloride of Sodium, 

100.00 100.28 

8* 



ROOTS. 


LEAVES. 


47.16 


22.10 


• 


7.55 


4.70 


26.44 


. 3.93 


3.43 


10.35 


16.10 


.69 


1.83 


24.83 


16.62 


2.12 


6.21 


6.22 




. trace. 





178 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

It requires tlie same special manures as the cabbage and 
cauliflower. 

Culture. — Brocoli can be sown in April, or by shading 
the seed-beds during the day, until the plants get strong, 
as late as the middle of July. For this and cauliflower 
the seed-beds should be rich, and the plants well watered 
in dry weather. The drills should be eight inches apart, 
and the plants thinned out to six inches in the drills. 
The plants thinned out may be set out in another place to 
grow. These wdll make the best heads. Transplant, 
when each stem shows five or six leaves, covering the 
stem to the lower leaf, in rows two feet apart each way. 
Do this with a trowel, in dull, damp weather, and shade, 
if necessary, until the plants are established. Protect 
from insects with snuff, &:c., as directed for cabbage. 
Choose the same situation as for cauliflower, and follow 
the same mode of treatment throughout, especially the 
frequent hoeing and watering. 

Use and Mode of Cooling. — See Cauliflower. 

Brassica Napo Brassica — Turnip Cabbage. Brassica 
Caulo Rapa — Turnip-rooted Cabbage. 

These two species of brassica are little cultivated. The 
turnip cabbage grows above ground, pretty well up the 
stem, in a globular form, with a few leaves on top. The 
purple-stemmed variety is best. Its culture is the same 
as the cabbage, except that in hoeing care must be taken 
not to throw dirt into the heart of the plant, or the bulb 
cannot form. They should be hoed flatly. Sow in April. 

The turnip-rooted cabbage is similar in quality to the 
above, but the bulbs grow near the origin of the stem. It 
does not succeed so well transplanted. It is cultivated 
exactly like the Euta Baga turnip. There are two vari- 
eties, the white and the red. It is easily raised in any 



TURNIP. 179 

soil, if well manured. More weight per acre can be ob- 
tained by these crops than by the turnip, and they are of 
equal value. 

Use, — Turnip cabbage, v»'hen the size of a large turnip, 
is an excellent vegetable. If cut into slices one-quarter 
of an inch thick, and boiled until very tender, it resem- 
bles the cauliflower in flavor. The thick skin being re- 
moved, it may be cooked like a turnip. When full grown, 
it is used for feeding stock. It will endure our winter 
without protection. 

Brass ica Rapa — Turmp. 

This root was held in considerable estimation by the 
Romans. Cato is the first writer that mentions it. " Sow 
it," says he, " after an autumnal shower, in a place that is 
well manured, or in a rich soil." Columella recommends 
its cultivation, " because that portion of the crop not wished 
for the table will be greedily eaten by the farm cattle." It 
is a biennial plant, now cultivated in all temperate climes. 
It is now extensively raised as a field crop in England, for 
feeding stock, and is considerably raised for the same pur- 
pose in our northern States. 

Early Wliite Dutch (strap-leaved). — A round, flat tur- 
nip, with short, narrow, strap-like leaves, is the earliest kind. 

Early Red Top Dutch (strap-leaved), differs from the 
preceding only in the red color of the portion of the roots 
which is above ground. Both of these, in a moist, cool 
fall, are fit- for the table six Aveeks after sown. 

Yellow Dutch will stand any degree of frost uninjured, 
is fine flavored, and very nutritious. It is of a yellow 
color, round, handsome shape, firm and sweet, and keeps 
well. I prefer it to the Swedes for winter use, and would 
select this, if confined to one kind, for the garden. 

White French resembles the Swedes, but not so smooth ; 



180 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

flesh white, and exceedingly sweet and excellent j a fine 
keeper. 

PurfU-to'p'ptd S'wede. — Foliage differs from the foregoing, 
being smooth and covered with glaucous blooms. It is 
hardy and very nutritious. The roots are very large, of 
an oval tapering form and unlike the foregoing ; the greater 
their size, the sweeter and more nourishing they become. 
It keeps until spring. 

Skirving's Lnproved Swede. — This is of still better form 
than the foregoing, the leaves not so large, less smooth 
and free from bloom ; flesh line, yellow, and very 
nutritious. 





SkirvIngV 


s Swede. 


Common White. 




KOOT. 


I.KAVES. 


ROOT. 


LEAVES. 


Potassa, 


36.16 


20.36 


48.56 


12.68. 


Soda, 


. 4.99 


— 


— 


— 


Lime, 


11.36 


23.99 


6.73 


28.73 


Magnesia, 


. 2.44 


2.92 


2.26 


2.85 


Sesquioxide of Iron 


, .28 


1.90 


.66 


.80 


Sulphuric acid, . 


11.26 


6.50 


12.86 


7.83 


Silica, . 


. 1.63 


4.11 


.96 


2.05 


Carbonic acid, 


9.54 


6.16 


14.82 


14.64 


Phosphoric acid. 


12.51 


6,54 


7.65 


3.15 


Chloride of Potassium — 


9.77 


— 


15.56 


Chloride of Sodium, 


9.77 


17.69 


5.44 


10.67 



99.94 99.94 99.94 98.96 
Per-centage of Ash in > 

the dry substance, j 7.30 11.30 7.40 15.20 

Per-centage of Ash in ) 

fresh substance, ] .88 1.61 .59 1.82 

The analyses here given are by Way and Ogston. 
They indicate that potash, lime, sulphuric, and phosphoric 
acid may be applied to this crop with advantage. In 
practice, however, it is found that the most important ele- 
ment to be added is phosphate of lime. Either bone dust, 



TURNIP. 181 

superphosphate of lime or guano, all ricli in phosphoric 
acid, seems to supply everything this crop requires. 
Manured with these, it is soon beyond the reach of in- 
sects and casualities. A mixture of the two latter with 
the sulphate of ammonia, known as improved superphos- 
phate of lime, is probably the best of all manures for this 
crop. 

Culture. — The turnip likes a rich sandy soil. If raised 
on gi'ound manured by cow-penning, the crop rarely fails, 
as the urine deposited in the soil affords the phosphates 
so necessary for this crop, and in such places it is far less 
infested with insects. Soil fresh from the woods also suits 
them. The seed from the north is three or four weeks 
earlier than that raised here, and should be chosen for the 
early crop ; for the main crop our own seed is good enough 
if carefully raised. 

Sow early turnips in February, in drills one foot apart, 
in ground well dug and thoroughly manured. Draw the 
drills one inch deep. Keep the soil free from weeds. As 
soon as the plants get a little strong, thin out to two 
inches, and finally to six inches in the row. If the ground 
is not kept light and well worked, and the plants properly 
thinned, it is a mere waste of time and seed. The early 
white dutch from northern seed is the kind to be pre- 
ferred. They do much better in drills than broadcast. 

For fall turnips, sow the early white dutch, red top and 
yellow dutch any time in August and September, broadcast 
or better in drills, as directed above. If broadcast, thin 
them to about tvrelve inches apart or more. If sown just 
before a rain on the surface, the rain will bring them up 
at once. Soot, wood, ashes, and unslacked lime are all 
useful to promote growth and drive away insects. The 
red-top is an excellent variety for a general fall crop, and 
may be sown in October even with success. 



182 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

The Ruta Baga or Improved Swede should he selected 
for a crop to stand the winter. Plant pure seed or none ; 
the middle or last of July or early in August, just before 
a shower if possible. Let the drills be two feet apart, and 
thin the plants by degrees until twelve or fifteen inches 
in the row. As soon as the plants appear, loosen the 
earth about them. It requires a richer soil than the other 
varieties. Any vacancies in the row can be filled by 
transplanting, which will make nearly as large roots as the 
others. Keep the soil light and mellow by the use of the 
hoe. Large crops can be tended with the plough and 
cultivator to great advantage. In good soil the yield is 
immense. The crop may be drawn as needed, some should 
be drawn before they begin to grow up to seed and stored 
in a cool place for late keeping. 

To save Seed.- — Select a feAvofthe best roots, shorten the 
tap root and plant them two feet apart. Tie the stalks to 
stakes, keep them at a distance from all other members 
of the cabbage tribe. Ruta Baga will rarely make seed 
in this climate. Seed of the turnip should be changed every 
few years as the jDlant degenerates. It keeps three years. 

Use. — This is one of those useful vegetables that can 
be enjoyed with everything. The tops gathered in Avinter 
and spring make very good greens. The roots are whole- 
some, though they disagree with some stomachs. They 
are considerably nutricious also ; four ounces of white 
dutch containing eighty-five grains of nutritive matter, 
and four ounces of Ruta Baga containing one hundred and 
ten grains of the same. Any over supply of this crop may 
be fed with great advantage to the cow or boiled for 
the pigs. 

To Boil. — Turnips are good vegetables with boiled or 
roasted meat. Wash, peel, slice, and boil until quite soft, 
then mash with a little butter, pepper and salt. 



ROQUETT— RAPE. 183 



Brassica Eruca — RoauETT. 
This is an annual plant from France, of wliich the 
leaves are used as a salad. Sow thinly in drills a foot 
apart in February and March. Water frequently if neces- 
sary, which will lessen the acrid taste of the young leaves 
gather young; not much cultivated. 

Brassica Najpus Oleifera — Rape. 

Rape is a biennial plant, a native of England, with 
glaucous radical leaves and yellow flowers, appearing 
early in Spring. 

Culture. — Sow at the same time with cresses and mus- 
tard in winter and spring. Sow in drills or beds and 
follow the culture directed for v>"hite mustard. Rape sown 
like turnips the first of September, will survive the frosts 
and afford an abundance of fine greens the latter part of 
winter and early in spring. 

Two or three plants sown in August and kept over, 
will flower and seed the next year abundantly. 

Use. — The seed leaves are gathered young for a small 
salad with cresses and mustard. Later it is used like 
mustard for winter greens. ' This plant is much cultivated 
in Europe to express the oil from its seeds. 

Brassica Kapus Esculenta — Edible-rooted Rape, 

OR French Turnip. 

This is sometimes cultivated as a substitute for the 

turnip. The root is white, carrot-shaped, about the size 

of the middle finger. It is much grown in Germany and 

France. 

Culture. — It is raised from seed which may be sown 
in August or September, and requires the same treatment 
as turnip. It likes a sandy soil, and if grown in too rich 



184 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

earth it loses its sweetness. In dry weather, the beds 
must be watered regularly until the plants get three or 
four leaves. To save seed, see " Turnip." 

TJ$e. — It is much used in continental cookery, and en- 
riches all the French soups. Stewed in gravy, it forms 
an excellent dish, and being white and carrot-shaped, 
when mixed with those roots upon a dish, it is very or- 
namental. In using, there will be no necessity of cutting 
away the outer rind, in which the flavor chiefly resides. 
Scraping will be quite sufficient 

Calodiim Esculentiim* — Tanyah. 

This is a large-leaved, bulbous-rooted plant much culti- 
vated at the Sandwich Islands, and forms the principle in- 
gredient in the favorite poi, a food much in use there, and 
remarkable for its fattening properties. 

Culture. — It may be planted in any rich, well-drained 
low spot. Select the eyes or buds, and plant like the 
potato. The small roots are the ones generally reserved for 
this purpose. There are two distinct kinds named from 
their color the pink and the blue, of which the latter is 
thought by many to be the most farinaceous, but others 
prefer the taste of the pink variety. The sets may be 
put out in March or early in April, and the most attention 
required is to keep the soil clean and mellow. The rows 
may be three or four feet apart, and the plants two feet in 
the rows. It comes to maturity the autumn after planting 
and may remain in the bed until wanted. It keeps better 
than either the sweet or Irish potato. It is prepared for 
the table by simple roasting, and eaten with salt. By 
many they are much liked, as they are quite farinaceous. 

<•'■ Colocasia Esculenta Lind ? 



POT MARIGOLD — RAMPION, 185 

Calendula OJicinalis — Pot Marigold 

An annual ; native of France, Spain, and tlie South of 
Europe. Its bright yellow flowers give it a place in the 
flower-garden. A few plants only are needed by any 
family. 

There are two varieties, the single and double; the 
former of which is a little the highest flavored. Sow in 
autumn or early in spring on a good mellow soil in drills, 
one foot apart or broadcast ; when the plants are up, thin 
them to twelve or fifteen inches apart, or transplant them 
that distance if you wish more plants. Water till estab- 
lished. The flowers, during the summer, must be gathered, 
dried thoroughly in the shade, and put up in paper bags. 
Leave a few fine flowers for seed. The darkest-colored 
ones are the best- The flower is a valuable ingredient in 
soups, and the leaves were formerly infused for agues. 
The plant is now but little used. 

Cam/pamcla Rapunmdm — Eampion. 

This is an English biennial plant, with a long white 
spindle-shaped root, lower leaves oval lanceolate, with a 
pannicle of blue bell-shaped flowers in June. It has a 
milky juice. 

Culture. — Sow the seed in April in a rich, shady border. 
It likes a moist, rich soil not too stiff*. The seed must be 
very slightly covered, but the earth should be pressed 
upon it. As the plants grow, thin them to four inches 
apart, and pull them before they run to seed. 

To save seeds, allow some of the best plants to remain. 

Use. — The root is eaten raw like a radish, and has a 
pleasant, nutty flavor. Cultivated only by those in search 
of variety. 



186 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Capsicum Annuum — Pepper. 

Of tliis plant there are several species in cultivation, 
most of which are natives of tropical regions. It has 
been cultivated in England about a century. All of them 
are very pungent. The best varieties are : — 

Bell Pepper. — Brought from India in 1750. Of low 
growth with large, bell-shaped fruit. Its thick and pulpy 
skin renders it the best for pickles. More mild than most 
of the varieties. 

Tomato Pepper. — Named from its resemblance to the 
tomato in shape. More pungent than the preceding. 

Large Sweet is another variety much used for pickling, 
which I have not yet cultivated. It is said to be a good, 
mild variety. 

Cayenne or Long, with small, round, tapering fruit, an 
extremely pungent. Excellent for pepper sauce. 

Capsicum likes a rich, moist loam, rather light than 
otherwise. Guano and fowl manure are excellent fer- 
tilizers for peppers. 

For early plants, sow the seed in drills, one inch deep 
and six inches apart, under glass, in February, and trans- 
plant after the frosts are entirely over, when three or four 
inches high in good soil, in rows fifteen or eighteen inches 
apart each way. Sow also in the open ground as soon as 
the settled warm weather comes on, say the last of March 
or first of April, and thin them out to the proper distance. 
An ounce of seed will give two or three thousand plants. 
They should be transplanted in moist weather only, and 
must be watered until well-established. Shading a few 
days, at mid-day after transplanting, is very beneficial. 
Cultivate and earth up their stems a little. 

Seed. — A plant bearing the earliest and finest fruit 
should be selected. The varieties should be grown as far 



ENDIVE. 187 

apart as possible. When ripe the pods are hung up to 
dry, and kept until the seed is wanting for sowing. 

Use. — These plants are very much used in all hot 
climates, where they enter as a seasoning into almost 
every dish. The large kinds are used for pickling, and for 
this should be gathered when full grown just before turn- 
ing red. They are also dried when ripe and used for 
seasoning. Cayenne and the other small kinds are ground 
for table use, or made into pepper sauce by the addition 
of strong vinegar. Peppers are often rubbed upon meat 
to drive away insects, and are also considerably used in 
medicine, especially by botanic practitioners. The daily 
use of this plant in hot climates is decidedly a preventive 
of bowel complaints, which renders its cultivation so uni- 
versal. 

Cichoriuvi Endivia — Endive. 

Endive is a hardy annual, a native of China and Japan; 
first cultivated in England in 1548. The root leaves are 
numerous, large, sinuate, toothed, and smooth. The stem 
rises about two feet high, producing blue flowers. It is 
considerably cultivated in Europe. 

Varieties. — The best varieties are: 

Green Curled. — A fine, hardy variety, with beautifully 
curled leaves. It is the best for salads. 

Bread-leaved or Batavian has thick, plain, or slightly 
wrinkled foliage.- It is principally used for cooking, and 
making a larger head is preferred for stews and soups, 
but not much used for salads. Besides these varieties, 
there is another species, CicJwriam Intyhus, or Succory, a 
good deal used as a winter salad in Europe, but it is 
mainly cultivated for the root, which is dried and ground 
for the purpose of adulterating coffee, and some even 
think it quite as good. It is a hardy perennial, and 



188 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

its blue flowers sometimes introduce it into tlie flower- 
garden. 

Culture. — Endives delight in a light rich soil, dug 
deeply to admit its tap roots, and to serve as a drain for 
any superfluous moisture in the winter standing crop. The 
situation should be open and free from shade of trees. 

Sow the seed in August and September. Sow at this 
season if possible everything just before a shower — draw 
a furrow the depth of your hoe, in the bottom of which 
scatter your seed thinly, and cover slightly with earth, 
pressing it upon the seed. Plant in the evening, and 
water copiously with the fine rose of a water-pot in the drill ; 
shade during the day, and continue watering in the even- 
ing until the plants get rooted. The drills should be 
twelve or fifteen inches apart. The Batavian likes most 
space ; hoe freely and keep the ground free from weeds; thin 
the plants when two inches high ; those removed may be 
transplanted to another location ; choose moist weather for 
this purpose, trim the leaves a little and water moderately 
every evening, until the plants get established and during 
very long droughts. Those left in the seed bed make the 
best plants. 

In about three months after sowing, as they grow stocky 
and full in the heart, the leaves being about eight inches 
long, some should have their leaves tied up every week or 
fortnight to blanch, and render them tender and remove 
their bitter taste. Perform this in dry days. The curled 
sort will sometimes blanch pretty well if neatly earthed 
up without being tied, but it is better to tie it. The broad 
leaved from its loftier and looser growth needs a bandage. 
Fold the leaves round the heart as much as jDossible in 
their natural position, and tie them up Avith a string or shred 
of bass, then covering them entirely with sand in the form 
of a cone, rendering the surface smooth and firm. This 



HORSE RADISH. 189 

must be done in dry, but not frosty weather, as tbe plants 
will rot if the leaves are wet or frozen. They may also 
be blanched under garden pots like sea-kale, or by merely 
tying them closely, winding the string several times round 
the plant and closing the top, so as to exclude the rain, 
drawing the earth around the base to support it. This is 
the best mode in hot weather; in autumn they will 
blanch in ten days, in winter they require nearly twice 
that time. Succory to blanch is taken up and planted in 
boxes of mcVild which are carried into a cellar or dark 
room and watered when necessary. The blanched leaves 
will be supplied all winter. 

Fo7- Seed. — Let some of the best and most vigorous 
plants remain till February, and transplant if you wish to 
use the ground, in rows eighteen inches apart. Support the 
stems by stakes, and gather the seed vessels as they ripen. 
Dry them thoroughly on a cloth, thresh and preserve in 
paper bags. The seed will keep four years. 

Use. — Endive is cultivated for its stocky head of leaves, 
which after their bitterness is removed by blanching ; are 
used in autumn and winter for salads and stews. It is 
very wholesome, and boiled is thought to be a remedy 
for the jaundice. It possesses a good deal of the virtues 
of the dandelion ; it never disagrees with the stomach, but 
suits every constitution. The French use it in a variety 
of forms, raw, stewed, boiled, pickled, but it is chiefly 
employed as a salad. 

Cochlearia Armoracia — Horse radish. 

Horse-radish is a cruciferous perennial plant, growing 
naturally in moist places in England, and various other 
parts of Europe. The leaves are large, oblong, hollowed, 
and from some fancied resemblance to a spoon Cochlear^ 



190 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

the botanical name, is derived. Its flowers are wliiie, and 
appear in panicles in May, It lias long been an inhabitant 
jf the garden. 

Culture. — Horse-radish delights in a deep rich mould, 
moderately and regularly moist — the roots are never of 
any size if grown in poor soil, or under shade of trees. It 
seldom produces seed, and hence is propagated by sets 
provided by cutting the roots and offsets into lengths of 
two inches. The tops and crowns of the roots make the 
best sets as they are earlier, and make a finer growth than 
those from the centre of the root. Each set should have 
two eyes. 

Horse-radish may be planted from November to March, 
inclusive. The finest crops are made by trenching the 
ground two feet deep, planting the cuttings along the bot- 
tom of the trench, and the mould from the next trench 
turned over upon them. 

They may also be inserted with a long blunt-pointed 
dibble the same depth ; let the rows be eighteen inches 
apart, and the sets twelve inches in the row. After the 
beds are planted, smooth the surface and keep clear of 
weeds, and avoid treading upon the beds, as they should 
be kept as light as possible. If planted in March, a crop 
of radishes or lettuce may be taken off the ground before 
the plants make their appearance. They speedily root 
and send up long straight shoots, those appearing in April 
that were planted in autumn. The only cultivation is to 
keep them free from weeds, and remove the decayed leaves 
in autumn. Hoe and rake the bed over in autumn, and 
also the following spring. By the next fall, the roots are 
ready to take up as wanted. If the plants throw up suckers, 
they should be carefully removed as they appear. 

If any manure is applied to horse-radish, it must be put 
at the bottom of the trench before planting, or the plant 



SCURVY GRASS. 191 

will send out side shoots in search of the manure, which 
would greatly injure the crop. 

•To take them up, a trench is dug along the outside row 
down to the bottom of the upright roots which are cut off 
nearly level with the original planting. The earth from 
the next row is turned over upon them to the desired depth, 
and so on until finished. The pieces of roots left will 
send up new shoots, and the same bed will produce well 
in this way five or six years, when the site of the planta- 
tion should be changed ; when this is to be done every 
piece of root should be taken up, for the smallest of them 
will vegetate and prove troublesome if left. The best 
roots come from fresh plantations. 

Use. — Horse-radish scraped into shreds with vinegar, is 
a well known and desirable accompaniment to roast beef. 
It is also used in fish and other sauces and chicken salads, 
and is thought to assist digestion. The shreds pickled in 
strong vinegar and closely stopped in glass bottles will 
keep for years. Horse-radish in medicine is a valuable 
stimulant — useful also in hoarseness, sometimes serviceable 
in rheumatism and is especially valuable in cases of in- 
cipient scurvy. 



Cochlearia Officinalis — Scurvy Grass. 

A biennial plant, found near most sea-shores in temper- 
ate climates. Likes a soil similar to the preceding, and 
equally free from the shade of trees. 

It is propagated from seed sown as soon as ripe in 
May or June, for if kept long it does not germinate well. 
Sow in drills eight inches apart and one-half inch deep. 
When they come up thin them to eight inches apart, trans- 
planting those taken up, and giving water until estab- 
lished. Keep free from weeds, which is all the cultivation 



192 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

needed. To save seed leave some of the plants in place, 
and gather and sow when ripe. 

Use. — The small leaves are used like cresses ; its great 
use medicinally is pointed out by its name. 

Convolvulus Batafos, $^x. — Swept Potato. 

This valuable plant, lirst cultivated in England in 1597, 
by Gerrard, is the potato mentioned by Shakspeare and 
his cofemporaries, the Irish potato being then scarcely 
known. " Let the sky rain potatoes," says Falstaff, al- 
luding to this vegetable, which was at that time imported 
into England from Spain and the Canary Islands, and 
considered a great delicacy. The sweet potato is a pe- 
rennial plant, a native of China and both Indies. It 
has small leaves, with three to five lobes, according to 
the variety — with herbaceous vines which run along the 
ground, taking root, at intervals. Its roots are long, spin- 
dle-shaped or oval, often very large, and abounding in 
starch and sugar. Its nutritious properties and agreeable 
flavor have brought it into general use in all parts of the 
globe, whore the climate is warm enough to admit of its 
successful cultivation. The following are the most com- 
mon varieties, and perhaps as good as any. 

Small Spa?iish. — Long, grows in clusters, purplish 
color, very productive, and of excellent quality. 

Brbnstone. — Sulphur-colored, long, of large size, and 
productive ; keeps well with us, and is one of the best 
sorts ; very dry, and excellent. 

Red Bermuda. — Is of the Yam family ; leaves many- 
lobed, and the best early potato — productive. 

Common Yam. — Leaves many-lobed ; root oblong and 
something globular, the best long-keeper, and very pro- 
dnctive. Has something of the pumpkin flavor. 





SWEET POTATO. 


193 


Analysis. — One thousand pounds of the roots contain: 


Starch, 
Albumen, 


• 


184.23 
. 54.47 


Coagulable Albumen 


, ... 


19.40 


Casein, 


. 


9.70 


Sugar and Extract, 


. • 


53.49 


Dextrine and Gum, 


. . . 


. 6.93 


Fiber, 


. 


17.09 


Gum Resin, 


. 


. 2.07 


Water, 


J 


641.72—989.10 


Silicic Acid, 




0.24 


Sulphuric Acid, 




0.16 


Phosphates of Lime 


and Magnesia, . 


. 2.78 


Lime, 


. 


.08 


Magnesia, 


. 


. .07 


Potash, 


. 


6.3 


Soda, 


. 


66 


Chlorine, 


. 


.54_10.90 



LOOO.OO 

The above analysis was made by Prof. Emmons. Potash 
seems to be the element most necessary to supply the soil. 
A dressing of wood ashes would be very beneficial to tliis 
crop. Next to potash it demands a supply of the phos- 
phates. 

Cvlturc. — The sweet potato likes a rich, sandy loam, 
perfectly friable, and, as indicated by the analysis, abound- 
ing in potash. The soil should be well enriched. They 
do well on lands freshly reclaimed from the forests. 

The Spanish potatoes are generally planted where they 
are to remain like the Irish potato, whole or cut up into 
sets. But both these may, and the yams must be propa- 
gated by slips, as they grow larger and yield more abun- 
dantly. 

To raise slips select a sunny spot sheltered by fences 
or buildings, and lay it off in beds four feet wide, with 
9 



194: GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

alleys of the same width between them ; slope the beds a 
little towards the sun, dig them well and add plenty of 
well-decomposed manure, if not already rich. Do this the 
last of February or early in March. Choose large, smooth, 
and healthy-looking potatoes, and lay them regularly over 
the bed an inch or two apart, and cover them about three 
or four inches with soil from the alleys ; rake the beds 
smooth and it is done. In large operations, ten bushels 
of potatoes should be bedded for every acre of ground. 

While the slips are sprouting, prepare your ground to 
receive them. It should be rich, or made so with well- 
rotted manure, and thoroughly and deeply broken up with 
the plough or spade. Lay it off just before the slips are 
ready, which will begin to be about the 15th of April, in 
low horizontal ridges or beds, the crowns of which are 
three and a half feet asunder, and about six inches high, 
on which plant out the slips with a dibble, eighteen inches 
apait, one plant in a place. Choose for this operation 
such a day as you would for cabbage plants, or do it in 
the evening. The sweet potato is readily transplanted, 
and if holes are dug in the mellow bed, deep enough to 
admit the plant, and the slips set upright therein, have the 
earth washed in about their roots by pouring water upon 
them from the open spout of a waterpot, finishing the 
operation by covering over with a coat of dry mellow 
earth, brought up and pressed pretty closely about the 
slips to keep the moistened earth from baking. Very few 
Avill die even if they are set out at mid-day ; but as the 
plants would be checked, a cloudy day, or just at night 
should be selected for the operation. This is an excellent 
mode of transplanting all plants, and is of great use both 
in the vegetable and flower garden. If the slips are not 
washed in as above when taken up in dry weather, it is of 
great advantage to grout them, as well as all other plants 



SWEET POTATO. 195 

jou wisli to transplant. This is done by immersing the 
roots in water thickened with rich earth. It refreshes the 
slips, and gives them a thin coating of earth as a protection 
against the atmosphere. Draw the slips when about three 
or four inches high, by placing the left hand on the bed 
near the sprout to steady the root, and prevent its being 
pulled up with the sprout, which is loosened with the right 
hand, taking care not to disturb the fibrous roots of the 
mother potato, for this continues to afford a succession of 
slips which may be successfully transplanted until the 
1st of July. After the piece is planted go over it again 
in a few days to plant over any place where the slips may 
have failed. As soon as the ground gets a little weedy, 
scrape it over, loosening the earth and covering up the 
weeds, but be careful not to injure the young slips. Faith- 
ful cultivation and frequent moving the soil are as benefi- 
cial to this crop as to any other. At one of the hoeings 
just before being laid by, the ground should be deeply 
moved with the plough or spade, but not too close to the 
plants. They should be laid by before the plants run a 
great deal, after which they should be undisturbed. Be 
careful not to cover the vines, but if they become attached 
to the soil, loosen them up from it, so that the vigor of the 
plants may be thrown into the roots and not into the run- 
ning vines. Make the hills large and broad, not pointed. 
In hoeing draw the vines carefully over towards you 
while you draw up the earth and cover the weeds; then 
lay them carefully back, and finish the other side in the 
same manner. At this time it is an excellent plan to fill 
the spaces between the rows with leaves and litter while 
the ground is wet, to retain the moisture. After the vines 
have covered the ground too much to use the hoe, any 
large weeds that appear should be pulled up by hand. 
The Yam Potato can also be raised from seed, but the 



196 GARDENIISG FOR THE SOUTH. 

Spanisli variety, like the sugar cane and many other plants 
long propagated by division, rarely produces seed. 

Just as soon as the tops are killed by frost, the potatoes 
should be gathered. In field crops they can be ploughed 
up and gathered by hands which follow the plough, de- 
positing the potatoes in small heaps, but in the garden the 
potato can be gathered with the hoe or the potato hook, 
an implement much used in gathering crops of the Irish 
potato. It is better to do this in a dry day, and many 
prefer to dig their potatoes just before the frost kills the 
vines thinking they keep better. 

Keeping potatoes is a rather difficult matter. The fol- 
lowing is Mr. Peabody's plan : Let the small heaps dry 
during the day. In handling them, take care not to bruise 
or injure the skin. Put them up in hills, containing thirty 
or forty bushels each. Make a circular trench as large as 
the hill you wish to make. Elevate the earth surrounded 
by it about six inches, or sufficient to prevent the access 
of moisture. Cover this over with pine straw, and pile up 
the potatoes upon this in a regular cone. If the weather 
is good, cover them only with pine or other straw for two 
or three days, until the potatoes are well dried, before 
their final earthing up. Let the covering of straw be three 
or four inches thick ; then cover it over with large strips 
of pine bark, commencing at the base, and cover as shing- 
ling unto the top, leaving a small aperture. Cover four 
or five inches thick with earth over all, except this aper- 
ture, which must be left open for the escape of the heat 
and moisture generated within. 

Some cover this opening with a piece of pine bark, to 
keep out the rain, but a board shelter is preferable. When 
the weather gets warm, in the spring, take up the pota- 
toes, rub off the sprouts, and keep on a dry floor. If put 
up with care, they will keep until July. One important 



SEA KALE. 197 

step toward their certain preservation is to gather tliem 
carefully from the ground, as the least bruise produces 
rapid decay. 

For seed, some of the finest roots of the most productive 
hills can be packed in barrels, and covered with sand, in 
a dry, warm place, free from all exposure to frost. My 
own garden crop keeps perfectly well in barrels, with a 
layer of leaves at the bottom, then a layer of potatoes, 
then a layer of leaves, and so on until the cask is filled. 
Use dry leaves, and store in a dry place. 

Use. — This root is deservedly a favorite at the table, 
and the most wholesome grown. In nutritious properties, 
as we see by the analysis, it excels all other roots culti- 
vated in this country, except the carrot. Weight for 
weight, it contains more than double the quantity of 
starch, sugar, and other elements of nutrition, that are 
found in the best varieties of Irish potato. For feeding " 
stock, three bushels are equal to one of Indian corn, yield- 
ing, on the same land, five or six times the food that is 
produced by this most profitable grain 

A good baked sweet potato is almost as nutritive as 
bread. They are better baked than boiled. -They are 
also used for pies and puddings, and sweet potato rolls are 
excellent. In short, the modes of cooking this excellent 
vegetable are innumerable, but perhaps the very best is 
Marion's mode of roasting in the hot ashes. 

Cravihe Maratima — Sea Kale 
The sea kale is a perennial, a native of the dry, shingly 
shores of Great Britain. The plant is smooth, of a beau- 
tiful glaucous hue, covered with a fine meal, and with 
large sinnated, radical leaves. The flower is of a rich 
white appearance, and a honeyed smell. It has probably 
been cultivated in gardens one hundred and fifty years, 



198 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



but not very generally until the beginning of the present 
century, though the English peasantry have been in the 
habit of gathering the blanched shoots as they pushed 
through the sand, and boiling them as greens, from time 
immemorial. 

Wherever the climate will admit its cultivation, as all 
through our mountain region, if not in the low country, it 
will be found a very valuable addition to the scanty list 
of spring vegetables now upon our tables. It is partial to 
a cool climate. 

The following analysis of the ash of this plant is by 
Herapath. The per-centage of ash in the undried plant 
was 2.42, the constituents of which are in the following 
proportions : 





LEAVES. 


YOUXG SHOOTS. 


Carbonic acid, . 


6.92 


4.22 


Sulphuric acid. 


15.16. 


21.85 


Phosphoric acid, 


trace 


5.06 


Potassa, 


2.10 


6.75 


Soda, . . . . 


20.80 


23.58 


Chloride of sodium, 


12.54 


trace 


Carbonate of lime. 


27.17 


3.61 


Carbonate of magnesia. 


trace 


trace. 


Sulphate of lime. 


1.51 


trace 


Phosphate of lime, 


12.10 


30.71 


Phosphate of magnesia. 


trace 


trace 


Phosphate of iron. 


1.58 


trace 


Silica, . . . . 


.10 


4.22 



99.98 100.00 

Common salt, bone-dust, and gypsum are pointed out 
by the analysis as beneficial special manures for sea kale. 

Culture. — The native soil of sea kale is a deep sand, 
mingled with alluvial matter from the sea. It likes a deep 
mould, or sandy loam, and if poor, well putrified dung and 
half decayed leaves may be added. Upon the richness 
and proper preparation of the soil, not only the luxuriance 



SEAKALE. 199 

but the continued existence of the plant depends. Com- 
mon salt applied dry, in autumn, at the rate of even 
thirty bushels per acre, or watering the plants with a brine 
made with four ounces of salt to the gallon, applied around 
the roots in summer, is a very beneficial application. The 
situation must be free from all shade of trees. Sea kale 
is propagated by seeds, or offsets, or cuttings of the root; 
but the best plants are raised from seed. Soav the seed in 
a well prepared soil, rich, or made so with well decomposed 
manure, and shaded by a fence, or building, from the mid- 
day sun. Draw the drills one foot apart, and scatter the 
seed thinly along the drills. The beds should be about 
four feet wide, for convenience. Put in the seed from 
October to the middle of March, but December and Janu- 
ary are the best months. Before inserting the seed, bruise 
the outer coat, but without injuring its vegetating power. 
By this practice, germination will be accelerated. The 
plants are very slow in appearing ; never less than three 
weeks, often four or five months, and sometimes a full 
year. Water plentifully in dry weather, and keep the 
seed-beds free from weeds during the season. Thin the 
plants, as they appear, to an inch apart, and, as they grow 
strong, to two or three inches. The great difficulty in 
raising sea kale is in getting good, healthy, acclimated 
plants, to form the beds. The seed are difficult to vege- 
tate, and, after they do come up, apt to die off during the 
summer. In the autumn, when their leaves decay, clear 
them away and earth them up about the crowns with an 
inch or two of soil from the alleys, or leaf-mould from the 
woods, and cover over the whole bed, four inches deep, 
with long- litter, and leave it to stand until the time of 
transplanting. 

If you have been successful in raising your plants, in 
the latter part of the February ensuing, prepare your per- 



200 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

mauent bed for those you -wish to transplant. Those 
raised where they are to remain succeed best. 

Let the soil be light, and well enriched with good com- 
post manure. Leaf manure is better than hot dung. Dig 
it up deeply and thoroughly, at least two feet deep, and 
lay it off in beds three feet wide, with alleys between two 
feet in width. Upon each of these beds plant two rows 
of plants eighteen inches apart and the same distance in 
the row. Take up the plants very carefully with the 
trowel, so as not to disturb the roots. If you plant cut- 
tings of old plants, put two in each place, to guard against 
failures. In all cases, be careful in transplanting that the 
roots are not broken or dried by exposure to the sun and 
air. During the dry, hot weather of summer the beds 
should be liberally watered, the first season after replant- 
ing, as upon their summer growth depends the next 
season's crop. Keep the soil clean, and after the plants 
get well rooted, dig over the ground between the rows at 
least ten inches deep, making the soil as fine as possible, 
and after a few days dig in the same manner, on the out- 
side of each row, that the plants may not receive a check 
by having all their roots shortened at once. 

The coming autumn, the earthing-up must be a little 
increased ; give a coat of leaf mould or compost manure 
and over this a thick coat of leaves, which will bring the 
plants on early in the spring. The next spring remove 
the litter and dig in some of the manure into the alleys, 
and then if you blanch with pots, spread over the 'beds 
about an inch deep of clean sand. The shoots may be 
blanched and a few cut for use but sparingly, as the plants 
must not be weakened. The better way is not to remove 
the covering of leaves until you have gathered what you 
desire. On a portion of the bed to produce early, the winter 
covering of compost and leaves must be yearly applied. 



SEA KALE. 201 

Another portion must be left uncovered until the shoots 
begin to rise and then covered with eight or ten inches of 
sand for a later crop. Each spring give it a dressing of 
salt like asparagus. Each succeeding summer also, dig 
over the surface of the bed as before. Eetain for each 
plant only four or five of the best suckers at regular dis- 
tances around the stem ; suffer none of these to seed, if 
you would not greatly injure the next year's growth. 

Sea Kale is worthless unless white and tender, and be- 
fore it is eatable requires to be blanched. This may be 
done by earthing-up the crowns eight or ten inches with 
sand, or light mould, or by retaining the coat of dry leaves 
put over the beds in autumn. 

This covering may remain until the cutting ceases in 
the spring, when all covering must bo'' removetl at evening' 
or in cloudy weather. The shoois ^vill raise the covering 
when in a fit state for cutting. The courccs of loaves 
should be from five to twelve inches thicl^.,'ac(;oid!ng /.o 
the age of the plants, and a.e' directed above, may remain 
on all winter. But a large flowor jpci yiih the^holGdn'th's 
bottom stopped, and light at the edges "c>irefury, excluded 
by a coat of litter, is the best of all modes of blanching, 
when the plants get established. 

For Seed. — A plant that has not been blanched or cut 
from, must be allowed to run to seed in the spring. A 
single plant will produce an abundant supply. 

Use. — Sea Kale comes on early in March, when vege- 
tables are scarce, and affords a very wholesome and 
agreeable table luxury. The young shoots and leaf 
stalks, before unfolding, are boiled and dressed like aspar- 
agus, and are also employed in soups. 

To Boil.— Tie the shoots in bundles and put into boiling 
water with a little salt ; boil briskly twenty minutes and 
serve on toast with nice melted butter. 
9* 



202 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



Cucumis Sativus — Cucumber. 

This is a trailing annual, with rough heart-shaped 
leaves and yellow flowers, growing wild in the East 
Indies and in most warm climates. It is one of the 
earliest garden products mentioned in history and was 
cultivated from the ealiest times in Egypt. {Numbers x.i. 5.) 

It has always been a vegetable peculiarly grateful and 
refreshing to the inhabitants of warm climates. It was 
probably early brought into Europe from the East, as 
it was in high esteem among the Romans, who so well 
understood its culture, that it appeared on the tables of 
the wealthy in winter. 

In England, it was introduced as early as 1573. 

Tr(2rze<'ie^.v-j-Theie are many varieties, the best of which 
are : ' ' ' '"^' ,' ' ' . 

', JJl<j:iiy-S^^oH ^VJiite Prickly- growing five or six inches 
lo>ig- with w^iit^e -prickles, re•^laining green longer than 
. most other varieties ; produrCtive. 

-.,\&r/2/,f7Z?t#f6A— Is, :wg11. adapted to this climate, being 
t^ery early, ^nto i^ named from the fruit growing in clus- 
ters. The fruit is generally about five inches long, very 
productive. Early Russian is a smaller and earlier variety 
of this. 

Long Green Pricldy. — Dark green color with black 
spines, grows about ten inches in length and bears abun- 
dantly ; excellent for pickles. 

Gherkin. — Cucumis Angiiria, a species with very small 
and prickly fruit and leaves much divided, or palmated ; 
a great bearer, but used only for pickling. 

There are many other varieties, some of which grow 
two feet long, crisp and well flavored, but the foregoing 
are the best for family culture. 

The ash of cucumber has been analyzed by Richardson. 



CUCUMBER. 203 

The per-centage of asli afforded by the plant in the un- 
dried state, is .63, the constituents of Avhich are in the 
following proportions. 

Potassa, 47.42 

Lime, ....... 6.31 

Magnesia, ..... 4.26 

Sulphuric Acid, ..... 4.60 

Silicic Acid, 7.12 

Phosphoric Acid, . . . . 14.97 
Phosphate of Iron, • . . . 2.06 
Chloride of Potassium, . . . 4.19 
Chloride of Sodium .... 9.06 



99.99 



Ashes, Bone-dust and common salt are the special 
manures indicated by the analysis. Guano is the best 
manure. 

Culture. — The culture of cucumbers in this fine climate 
is very easy. They will grow in almost any soil or situa- 
tion, provided it has a good supply of moisture, but it likes 
a light, fresh loam, and to be somewhat shaded during the 
heat of the day. The seed may be planted about the first 
of April, or as soon as it can be done with safety, as this 
plant is very tender and Avill not bear the least frost. If 
the ground be deeply trenched, the plant is much less 
susceptible to drought. After the ground is regularly dug, 
dig out holes fifteen inches deep and the same in diameter, 
six feet apart each way, and partly fill them with well 
decomposed manure. A little guano, or fowl manure, 
sprinkled in the bottom of the hills will be very beneficial. 
Do not use fresh manure or the the plants will die out. 
Cow manure and leaf mould are excellent. Cover over 
the manure with rich, mellow loam. Raise the hills a 
little above the surface, and form them saucer-shaped, two 
or three inches deep so as to retain the moisture. Put 



204 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

eiglit or ten seeds in the hill, and when they get rough 
leaves pull up the poorest plants, and leave but three in a 
hill. Old seed is much better than new, as the plants will 
run less to vines and bear better. 

As soon as the vine gets rough leaves, nip off the 
extremities to make them branch out and they will fruit the 
sooner. This is called stopping. Cucumbers are very 
subject in cool, dry seasons to attacks of insects, especially 
the striped bug and the cucumber flea. Dry wood ashes 
or air-slacked lime dusted thoroughly upon the plants 
when the dew is on, will generally repel them, and bring 
the plants forward. But Avarm rains will soon bring up the 
plants beyond the reach of the depredators. Cucumbers 
should not be planted very late in this climate, as those 
that form after the middle of August are pretty apt to be 
destroyed by the melon worm. The best pickles are 
from the early planted vines. 

Cucumbers can be very much forwarded by planting 
them in boxes covered over with glass. Two seven-by-nine 
panes are large enough to cover a hill, and such hills will 
not be troubled by the bugs, and the !-eed can be put in 
four or five weeks earlier than otherwise. The seed can 
also be planted in large pots under a frame, or in a green- 
house, to be turned out, when the weather gets favorable, 
into the open air, and they will scarcely show they have 
been moved. Or they can be raised wholly without re- 
moval, in hot-beds made as directed in a former article. 
They do best to start them in pots placed in a small hot- 
bed, and to be transplanted when the leaves are two or 
three inches broad and they fill the pots, into new beds 
' of a larger size. They must have plenty of air, and be 
placed near the glass, or they will be drawn up. If they 
begin to grow long-legged, give them more air. The tem- 
perature of the seed-bed should range between 65° and 



CUCUMBER. 205 

85°. Always water the plants with tepid water, and do 
it about noon. Liquid manure, especially guano-water, is 
very beneficial. In planting in the bed for fruiting, do 
not break the ball of earth ; take them out of the pots 
carefully at night, water gently, keep the sash down the 
next day, and shade at noon-day, to keep them from 
withering. It is necessary the beds should be shaded 
with a mat, during the middle of the day, when the sashes 
are kept down, until the plants get well established. 
Stopping in the hot-beds is still more important than in 
the open air. The temperature now must be be kept 
between 70° and 90°, by external coatings of fresh dung, 
if necessary. The shoots must be trained regularly over 
the surface of the bed. Leave only two or three main 
branches to each plant, removing the others as they ap- 
pear. If the plants that have been stopped have extended 
their runners three joints without showing fruit, they must 
be stopped again. The vines should blossom in a month 
from the time of sowing. Impregnate the pistillate or 
female blossom (which may be known by its having fruit 
attached), by taking the staminate blossom and placing its 
centre within that of the pistillate blossom. They may be 
gathered in about two weeks after impregnation. Three 
plants are sufficient for one sash of the usual size. 

For Seed. — Choose some of the finest fruit of each variety 
growing near the root. Do not raise the plants near other 
varieties, or the seed will mix and deteriorate. Let them 
remain until they turn yellow, and the footstalk withers ; 
cut them off and keep in the sun until they begin to 
decay ; then wash the seed from the pulp, and spread it out 
to dry. It will keep eight or ten years, and is even better 
when three or four years old, as the plants are less luxu- 
riant and more productive. 

Use, — Cucumbers are a very popular, but not very 



206 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

•wholesome vegetable. They are of a cold, watery nature, 
and beside are found to contain, in a small quantity, a 
chemical principle analogous to fungin, the poisonous prin- 
ciple of mushrooms. Many persons of weak constitution 
cannot eat them without positive injury. They possess 
scarcely any nutritive properties, but their cooling nature 
renders them to most palates very agreeable. They are 
eaten raw, fried, stewed, and pickled. The juice is said 
to be a cosmetic, and enters into the composition of many 
of the French pomades. 

To Keep Cucumbers. — Cover the bottom of a cask or jar 
with salt ; put on a layer of small cucumbers ; then an- 
other layer of salt, and so on, until the vessel is full. 
Place a weight upon them to keep them pressed down. 
They will make their own brine, and keep any length of 
time. If the weight is taken off, they will rise to the top, 
grow soft, and spoil, as they require to be excluded from 
the air, They should be freshened, by soaking in warm 
Avater, before the additions of vinegar and spices. 

To Dress Cucumbers Raw. — Pare freshly picked cucum- 
bers, and slice them into cold water ; pour off the water, 
and season with salt, vinegar, and pepper. A little salad 
oil may be added. Some add a small quantity of sliced 
onion, to impart the onion flavor to the vinegar. 

To Pickle Cucumbers. — Upon freshly picked cucumbers 
pour a hot, strong brine of salt and water, and let them 
stand in the brine two days ; then take them out, rinse in 
cold water, and let them drain three or four hours ; then 
boil a sufficient quantity of the best cider vinegar, with a 
bit of alum, together with mustard, allspice, cloves, and 
black pepper. Pour this mixture, boiling hot upon them, 
cover them closely, and set away for use. Green Cayenne 
peppers and onions may be used for seasoning, if liked. 



^ MELON. 207 

Cucumis Melo — Melon. 

The melon, or musk melon, is supposed to be a native 
of Persia, but has been cultivated in all warm climates so 
long, that it is difficult to assign, with certainty, its native 
country. It has been cultivated in Southern Europe at 
least four hundred years. It is the richest and most deli- 
cious of all herbaceous fruits. In England its culture is 
a difficult and expensive process, but in this country the 
most luscious melons are raised almost without trouble. 

There are three classes of melons, the green fleshed, 
yellow fleshed, and Persian melon. There are also several 
varieties of winter melon cultivated in Spain, which are 
said to be of good flavor, and in a dry room will keep all 
winter. In all, there are over seventy varieties, the best 
of Avhich are : 

Christiana. — This variety originated near Boston, from 
a cross between the green Malta and some early variety. 
Mr. Harwell states : " It is very fine at Mobile ; ten days 
earlier than any other variety, and of the finest flavor." 

Beechivood. — A green-fleshed melon, one of the best and 
most productive of its class ; ripens quite early, about 
twelve days after the Christiana. Fruit medium size, oval, 
netted ; skin, greenish yellow ; flesh, pale green, rich, melt- 
ing, and very sugary. If I had but one variety, should 
choose this. 

Hoosainee. — A Persian melon. Fruit oblong, egg-shaped, 
of good size; skin, light green, netted; flesh, pale greenish 
white, tender, and abounding with sugary, highly per- 
fumed juice; seeds large. 

Sweet Ispahan. — Fruit, large oval; skin, nearly smooth, 
of a deep sulphur color ; flesh, greenish white, crisp, thick, 
rich, and sugary. Eipens late. The most delicious of all 
melons. 



208 



GARDENING FOR THE SOU§H. 



Pine-Apple, Cassabar, Netted Citron^ and Rock, are also 
fine varieties. 

The melon has been analyzed by J. H. Salisbury. He 
found the per centage of water, dry matter, and ash, as 
follows : 



Per-centage of water, 


. 


. 90.987 


" " " dry matter, 


9.013 


" *' " ash. 


. 


.271 


" ** " " in 


dry matter, 


3.007 


ash was found to be constituted as 


follows : 


Carbonic Acid. 




. 11.55 


Silicic Acid, 


. 


2.20 


Phosphoric Acid, 




. 25.40 


Sulphuric Acid, . 


... 


3.90 


Phosphate of Iron, . 




. 2.30 


Lime, . 


. 


5.85 


Magnesia, 




.60 


Potash, 


• . . 


8.35 


Soda, . . , 




, 34.35 


Chlorine, 


. 


5.20 


Organic matter, 




. trace 



99.70 

The analysis shows that superphosphate of lime, or 
bone-dust, to supply the phosphoric acid, and common salt, 
to furnish the soda and chlorine, are the special manures 
most likely to be required. Ashes, guano, and all kinds 
of animal matter, will also increase its growth and pro- 
ductiveness. 

Culture. — The melon likes a rich, sandy soil, well ma- 
nured, and deeply dug. If the soil is clay, it should be cor- 
rected by the addition of charcoal-dust, sand, or leaf-mould 
from the woods. The most luscious melons are grown on new 
land, fresh from the woods. They like, also, soil manured by 
cowpenning. In selecting seed, get the, oldest you can, 



' jrELON. 209 

and take great care to get that whicli is perfectly pure, for 
the seed of melons raised in proximity to gourds, cucum- 
bers, pumpkins, &c., will produce new varieties, destitute 
of flavor. All plants of this family are exceedingly liable 
to intermix, to their great detriment. They will deterio- 
rate, if planted within one hundred feet of each other. 

Plant in the open ground as soon as the frosts are well 
over here, the 1st of April and through the month ; but in 
the low country the seed should be put in the ground in 
March. Make the hills six feet apart each way ; dig a hole 
for them a foot deep and two feet across, and fill it half full 
with good well-rotted manure. Upon this throw six inches of 
good soil, and mix well together. Finish out with light 
sandy loam, or if a stiff soil, mingle in charcoal dust to cor- 
rect its tenacity, so as to bring the hill just above the sur- 
face. Make the hill dishing, as for the cucumber. To guard 
against accident, plant about ten seeds in the hill, and 
cover an inch deep. The cucumber bug may be driven 
off if troublesome, as directed for cucumber. A little 
guano sprinkled around the hill, not too near the plants, 
and intermingled Avith the surface soil, will also by its 
pungent smell, drive off the cucumber bug and flea, and 
also prove a very valuable fertilizer of the plants. Wa- 
tering with guano water for the same purpose is very bene- 
ficial. When the plants make two or three rough leaves 
thin them out to three of the best in each hill, and pull 
up one of these soon after. When the vines begin to run, 
and show the first blossom, they must be stopped by pinch- 
ing off the extreme bud as in the cucumber. This will en- 
der them earlier and more prolific in large fruit. If wa- 
tered liberally with soapsuds in dry weather, they will 
repay the trouble. Keep the ground about them, fresh- 
dug, mellow, and free from weeds. Their whole culture 
is like the cucumber. Melons may be forced in all the 



210 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

methods described in the article on cucumber. As the 
melon worm generally destroys all the fruit after about 
the middle of August, it is important to get them early into 
bearing. This is a green worm, the progeny of some 
moth, which crawls up from the ground, eating its way 
into melons, squashes, cucumbers, &c., admitting the air, 
and causing them to decay at once, and fill the atmosphere 
about them with a most disagreeable and sickening odor. 
Putting a board or brick under each melon as soon as it 
appears, will sometimes prevent his entrance, but there is 
no certain remedy. But it is well to raise a part of the 
plants in pots to hasten the melon season as fast as possi- 
ble. Good melons may be raised without this trouble, but 
in a garden the very best modes of culture should be 
pursued. 

To Save Seed. — Select of each variety some of the 
earliest and best melons; wash the seed from the pulp, dry 
them in the shade, and put away in paper bags. They 
will keep ten years. Old seed is more prolific in fruit 
than new. Be sure and plant the oldest seed you can get 
if it appears well preserved; seeds will not be true if the 
varieties are within one hundred feet of each other. 

Use. — The melon as a palatable and luscious fruit, very 
cooling in hot weather, maintains a high rank. It is usu- 
ally eaten with salt alone, though many like the addition 
of sugar and spices. That it is wholesome is proved by its 
constant use while in season as an article of food among 
the people of Southern Europe. The musk melon con- 
tains but a trifle more water than the beet, and is quite as 
nourishing. It contains albumen, casein, dextrine and 
sugar, which combined with citric, malic, and tartaric 
acids, give its peculiar rich flavor. The green fruit may 
be cooked like the egg-plant, and is also made into man- 
goes. 



WATERMELON. 211 

Cucurhita Citrullus — Watermelon. 

This is also a trailing annual, a native of the tropics, 
and of the same natural family as the musk melon, but 
belongs to a distinct genus. It is a large succulent and 
refreshing, but not high-flavored, fruit, and is probably 
the melon mentioned in the Bibfe. 

The varieties just now in most repute in the Northern 
States, are Imperial, Black Spanish, Mountain Sprout, and 
Mountain Sweet, particularly the latter. The Orange Melon 
is also deservedly popular, the rind separating from the 
pulp like the orange. I have tried the above, but have 
never succeeded in getting as good melons as those raised 
from seed grown in the low country of our own State. 
The " Lawson melon" of Augusta, Ga., is probably 
the best grown. The Anderson is excellent. The 
Citron watermelon is a small, round, pale-green, mar- 
bled sort, liked by many for preserves. The watermelon 
has been analyzed by J.H. Salisbury. He found the per- 
centage of water, dry matter, and ash as follows: — - 

Per-centage of water, . ^ . 94.898 

„ dry matter, . . . 5.102 

ash, .... .248 

„ do. in dry matter, . 4.861 

The ash was found to be constituted as follows : — 



Carbonic acid. 

Silicic acid. 

Phosphoric acid. 

Sulphuric acid, 

Posphate of iron. 

Lime, 

Magnesia. 

Potash, 

Soda, 

Chlorine, 

Organic matter, 



11.42 
1.21 

14.93 
1.63 
4.52 
7.32 
1.31 

23.95 

30.63 
1.8] 

trace 



98.73 



212 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Phosphorus, potash, and soda are the chief constituents, 
and the special manures indicated are common salt, bone- 
dust, or superphosphate of lime, and ashes. Guano and 
animal matter of all kinds are valuable manures. 

Culture. — The water melon likes a deep, rich, sandy- 
soil. Where this plant ia^most successfully cultivated, it 
always grows upon sand. The hills should be seven or 
eight feet apart. In all other respects it is cultivated 
exactly in the same manner as the musk melon and cu- 
cumber. It should not be grown within one hundred feet 
of other melons, gourds, &c., if you Avould gather pure 
seed. Protect from insects as directed in the article, " Cu- 
cumber." The melon worm does not annoy the watermelon. 

Use. — This is a wholesome fruit, very popular in sum- 
mer from its beauty and the refreshing coolness of its 
juice. It is not very nutritious, as it contains ninety-five 
per cent, of water. It is not by any means as nourishing 
as the musk melon, and lacks its peculiar rich flavor. The 
outer rind is used for preserves. The seeds are valuable 
in urinary complaints. In many parts of Europe the 
juice is boiled into a pleasant syrup or made into beer. 

Cucurhila Mdopepo — Squash. 
The squash is a tender trailing annual, thought to be 
the connecting link between the melon and the pumpkin, 
and was first brought to England in 1597. It is a native 
of the Levant. It is a much esteemed garden vegetable, 
and in some of its varieties can be had for the table the 
greater part of the year. The best summer squashes are 
the Early Bush, of yellowish white color, and scolloped or 
patty-pan shaped, and the Early Bush Crooknecked, a 
small crooknecked sort, yellow, covered with warts, but 
excellent. These are very early, and their dwarf growth 
renders them most desirable for the g-arden. 



SQUASH. 213 

The best winter squashes are the Acorn, an old variety- 
named from its shape, the seeds of which are difficult to 
obtain in a state of purity, the Lima Cocoanut, a large, long 
fine-grained kind, and the Boston Marrow, now much 
laised in the northern States. The Cashaw pumpkin is a 
pretty good substitute for the winter squash. 

Culture. — It is planted at the same time as the cucum- 
ber and melon. Put six or eight seeds in a hill, and thin 
out to two or three when they get up. The bush squashes 
should be five feet apart, and the winter varieties at least nine 
or ten. For cultivation see Cucumber and Melon. Protect 
from insects in the same way. Squashes are much better 
grown in rich soil ; do not plant them near the cucumber 
or melon, if you would not have worthless seed from all 
the plants in their vicinity. Gather summer squashes 
while the finger nail can easily penetrate the rind ; they 
must be gathered as soon as fit for use, or the fruitful- 
ness of the vines will be much impaired. To keep winter 
squashes, they must be put away in a cool, dry place, free 
from frost. 

Use. — The squash is a very wholesome and tolerably 
nutritious vegetable, prepared for the table in the same 
manner as the turnip, for Avhich it is an excellent sub- 
stitute to eat with fresh meat. To be fit for use after 
being boiled tender, it must be squeezed between two 
plates, for when full of water, as it is often served, it is 
not fit to be eaten. The winter squash should be boiled 
dry ; it makes a good pie, like the pumpkin and the sweet 
potato. 

To Boil. — While young and tender, boil whole, otherwise 
cut in strips, and remove the seeds ; when boiled, mash, 
drain and season with butter, pepper, and salt. 



214 GARDEKIJsG FOR THE SOUTH. 

Cucurbita Succada — Vegetable Marrow. 
This is a species of gourd from Persia, useful for the 
kitchen in every stage of its growth. It is cooked like the 
egg-plant Avhen young, when half grown it is used as the 
squash, and baked into pies when matured ; cultivated like 
the squash, but appears not to be very productive. Hills 
six feet apart. 

Cucurbita Fcpc — Pumpkin. 

Also a trailing annual, a native of India and the Levant, 
with globular or cylindrical fruit. It has become so crossed 
and intermingled with the squash, that it is difficult to say 
of some varieties to which species they should be referred. 

The best variety for family use is the Cashaw, a long 
cylindrical curved variety ; swollen at the extremity, of fine 
creamy yellow color, very solid and excellent to use as a 
winter squash and quite as valuable as any for the other 
purposes. The Valparaiso is also a good variety. Pump- 
kins are not as particular about soil as melons and 
cucumbers, but will grow well on any tolerably rich ground 
It is not best to grow them in the garden, as they will 
mix and corrupt the seed of the other varieties. They 
like a soil freshly reclaimed from the woods ; the field is 
the proper place for their cultivation. Plant in March or 
April, when the main crop of corn is put in ; let the hills 
be ten feet apart. Hoe frequently and keep clean. Let 
only one or two plants remain in each hill. Do not earth 
up the plants, but keep the soil about them light and 
loose with the hoe, until the vines prevent further culture. 

Use. — In France as well as in New England, the pump- 
kin is much used for stews and soups. It is quite whole- 
some, and the most nourishing of any of this family of 
plants. The best kinds, as Cashaw and Valparaiso, .lie 



ARTICHOKE. 215 

excellent substitutes for the winter squash, and make an 
excellent pie. They are also a valuable food for cattle. 
They can be preserved by boiling and drying the pulp in 
an oven, or by cutting in strips and drying by the tire, 
or will keep very well whole, if in a cool, dry place, free 
from frost. 

Pumpkin Pie. — Pare the pumpkins, cut them into small 
pieces, and stew them in just water enough to prevent 
their burning, let them stand over a slow fire until quite 
soft, then strain them through a sieve or colander, and to 
one quart of pumpkin add one quart of rich milk or cream, 
six eggs, one table spoonful of ginger, a grated nutmeg, a 
little salt, and sweeten with sugar or molasses to your 
taste. Bake very thoroughly without an upper crust. 

Cynara Hortensis and Scolymus — Artichoke. 

The garden artichoke is a perennial plant, a native of the 
South of Europe, where it has been in cultivation from the 
time of the Romans. Columella mentions it, and says its 
name — cynara— is from dnere (ashes), because the soil for 
artichokes should be dressed with ashes. The plant is a 
sort of overgrown thistle, but more beautiful, with large 
pinnatified leaves, three or four feet long, with an ash- 
colored down, the head of which, when it is fit for use, 
before it begins to bloom, is about the size and somewhat 
the shape of a small pineapple. 

As the artichoke is a native of a hot climate, it is per- 
fectly adapted to the temperature of the Southern States 
and adds a pleasant variety to our early summer luxuries, 
which should bring it into more general cultivation. 

There are two kinds of the garden artichoke, the cynara 
scolymus or oval green, and the cynara hortensis or globe ; 
as the edible parts of the latter are larger, and of a finer 



216 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

flavor, it is preferred as a garden vegetable, though the 
scolymus is more hardy and productive in cold climates. 
The ash of the artichoke has been analyzed by Hich- 
ardson, and found to be constituted as follows : — 

Potassa, 24.04 

Soda, 5.52 

Lime, ...... 9.56 

Magnesia, . . . . . 4.14 

Sulphuric Acid, . . . .5.18 

Silicic Acid, 7.02 

Phosphoric Acid, .... 36.23 

Phosphate of Iron, . . . 4.74 

Chloride of Sodium, .... 3.57 



100.00 



Potash and phosphoric acid are the most abundant con- 
stituents, indicating the application of ashes and bone-dust 
as the best special manures. 

Propagation and Culture. — Artichokes are propagated 
by seed, or by off-sets from the old roots. If by seed, 
sow in February or the first of March, in drills an inch 
and a half deep, and a foot apart in very rich earth ; if 
you have it to spare, they do still better by sowing them 
earlier in a cold frame. Transplant them when from six 
to twelve inches high into a very rich soil. If the beds 
are thinned out by transplanting, so that the plants are 
left a foot apart in the rows, they may remain in the seed 
bed until fall. The finest heads are produced in a rich 
moist loam, and into such a soil they should be trans- 
planted. The best compost is a mixture of three parts well 
decomposed liianure and one of leached ashes. They 
require an open exposure, free from the shade and drip of 
trees, or the plants will spindle and produce worthless 
heads. The rows must be four feet and a half apart, and 



ARTICHOKE. 217 

the plants three feet in the rows. Plants from seed are 
better and more permanent than from off-sets. 

If propagated by suckers these must be slipped off early 
in spring from the parent plant, retaining as many fibrous 
roots as possible. They should be selectee! when eight or 
ten inches high, and from those shoots which are sound 
but not woody. The brown hard part next the old stem 
must be removed, and if that cuts crisp and tender, the 
plant is good; if it is tough and stringy, throw the shoot 
away as worthless. Further, the large outside leaves 
must be removed, so that the heart appears above them, or 
their exhalations will exhaust the plant before it gets 
rooted. They are greatly invigorated if set in water three 
or four hours before they are planted. Set them in rows 
the same distaiice as above, with about half their length 
beneath the surface ; water them abundantly until estab- 
lished and also during summer droughts. The only other 
attention they require during the summer, is the frequent 
use of the hoe. They will produce heads the same year 
from June to October, and annually thereafter from April 
to June or July, according to the season. The quality is 
improved, though at the expense of the quantity, by allow- 
ing only the head surmounting the main stem to grow on 
each stalk, removing all the laterals of the stem while 
young. As often as the head is cut, the stem should be 
broken down close to the root to encourage the production 
of suckers before Avinter. They should receive their win- 
ter dressing early in December. Cut away the old leaves 
without injuring the centre or side shoots, dig the ground 
over and throw the soil in a low broad ridge over each row, 
putting it close about the plants, but leaving the hearts 
clear. As soon as the shoots appear four or five inches 
above the surface, the ridges thrown up must be levelled 
and the earth removed from about the stock to below the 
10 



218 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

part whence the young shoots spring. Remove all these 
shoots but two, or at most three, of the most vigorous, tak- 
ing care to select those from the under part of the stock ; 
the strong, thick ones from the crown, having hard woody 
stems, produce hut indifferent heads. 

Although the artichoke is a perennial, yet after the 
fifth year, the heads grow small and dry. The beds 
should in consequence be broken up at this time, or as 
soon as they begin to fail and fresh ones be formed on 
another site. Artichokes are made to attain a much larger 
size than they otherwise would by twisting a ligature tight- 
ly around the stem below each, and thus preventing the 
reflux of the sap. 

The artichoke is much benefited by the application of 
sea Aveed or any other manure containing common salt. This 
is probably in a great measure because salt keeps the soil 
moist. 

For Seed. — Select a few of the finest heads and permit 
them to flower. Bend over the stalk and tie the head to 
a small stake to prevent the water from settling in the 
expanded calyx. When the flower has withered the seeds 
are ripe. One ounce of the seed will produce about six 
hundred plants, and for three years will vegetate freely 
if kept cool and dry. Put away in paper bags for use. 

As the newly-made beds come into flower after the 
season for the old plants is over, those fond of this vege- 
table Avill prefer to make a new plantation every year. 

Properties and Use. — The artichoke is wholesome, yet 
it contains but little nutriment, and is cultivated merely 
to please the palate. The heads are sometimes pickled. 
It is eaten by the French as a salad, with oil and 
vinegar, salt and pepper; the bottoms are often fried in 
paste like the egg-plant. The English gather them when 
they spread their scales and the flower appears about to 



GARDENS 219 

open ; the whole head is boiled and the scales pulled off, one 
or two at a time, dipped in butter and pepper, and the mealj 
part stripped off with the teeth. The bottom, when the 
leaves are disposed of, is eaten with the knife and fork. 
The flowers have the properties of rennet in curdling 
milk. Medicinally the artichoke is of little use. 

To Boil. — Throw the heads as soon as gathered into 
cold water and let them lie two hours. After being soaked, 
put them into hot Avater with salt and keep them boiling 
until tender, which will take about two hours. Dress 
and trim them, and serve them up with melted butter and 
other seasoning to suit the taste. 

Chards. — After the best heads have been cut, cut off 
the stems as low as possible, and the leaves within six 
inches of the ground. When the new leaves are two feet 
high, blanch them, as directed for Oardoons, which many 
think they excel. 

Cynara Carduiwulus. — Cardoon. 

The Cardoon is a hardy perennial plant, a native of 
Candia, introduced into England in 1658. It resembles 
the artichoke, but is of larger size, some five feet in height 
with the leaves spreading out widely. In continental 
Europe it is considerably cultivated, but it is a fancy 
vegetable, cultivated mostly as a curiosity, and being of 
no great merit as an esculent. There is but one variety 
cultivated. 

The soil must be light, deep, well pulverized and toler- 
ably rich. Sow the Deed early in April, in drills ten in- 
ches apart, giving the plants, as soon as they come up 
strong, each five inches of space. The}^ will run to seed 
too soon if sown earlier. Transplant carefully with a 
trowel, choosing a wet day, when six or eight inches high, 
into the place where they are to remain, being any ordinary 



220 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

compartment of tolerably rich, well-dug soil, five feet apart 
each way. Remove the long straggling leaves. Wator 
in dry weather until they take root. Keep the ground 
loose about them, hoeing up all the weeds. When the 
plants are eighteen inches or two feet high they must be 
blanched. 

The decayed leaves must be removed, and the rest 
closed together by strings or bass matting. Then bind up 
the plant carefully with twisted bands of hay or straw, 
beginning at the root. Select a dry day or the plants will 
rot. Bind up two-thirds of the height of the stem, then 
dig and break the ground and earth up to nearly the same 
height. As the plants grow, continue to tie and earth up. 
Watering liberally in hot weather is the only way to keep 
them from seeding. When the plants are blanched eigh- 
teen inches or two feet, they are fit for use. They will 
blanch fully in about two or three weeks. Do not let the 
earth get between the leaves or they will decay. They 
may be also sown in the rows where they are to remain, 
and thinned gradually to the proper distance. 

For Seed. — Leave a few full-grown plants unblanched 
to stand the winter and they will shoot up to seed the 
next season. 

Use. — The stalks rendered white and tender by blanch- 
ing, are used in stews, soups, and salads, the leaves and 
stems being white and crisp for two feet in length. The 
plant is not very nutritious. 

Cyperus Esculentus — Chufas or Earth Almonds. 

A perennial, indigenous to Southern Europe, growing 
in the form of a rush, some three feet high, producing 
small tubers the size of a common bean, and called by the 
Valencians '• Chufas." It was one of the plants distributed 



CARROT. 221 

by the Patent Office in 1854, and from its report this arti- 
cle is slightly condensed. 

Culture. — It should be planted here in April, after the 
frosts are over, in bunches two feet apart each way, ten 
or twelve tubers in each, about six inches asunder. As 
soon as the first shoots appear, the ground should be 
watered, and every ten days thereafter, should there be 
no rain. Carefully eradicate the weeds, which is all the 
cultivation required. Pinch off the flowers when they 
appear, that the tubers may be of a larger size. When 
they arrive at maturity, they may be dug out of the 
ground and stored away. In drying they lose about one- 
third of their weight. 

Use. — The tubers resemble in taste a delicious chestnut 
or cocoanut, and may be eafcen raw or cooked. Soaked in 
water, they are eaten as a sauce. They are also mostly 
employed in making an orgeat, a delightful and refresh- 
ing drink, much used in Spain, Cuba, and other hot cli- 
mates where it is known. 

Dancus Carota — Carrot. 
The carrot is a hardy biennial, found wild in Great 
Britain and various parts of Europe, growing in sandy soil 
or by road-sides. The root of the wild plant is small, 
white, dry, woody, and strong flavored ; while that of the 
cultivated variety is large, succulent, and generally of a 
reddish yelloAV or pale straw color. The cultivated carrot 
is however thought to have been brought into Europe 
from the island of Crete, where it was early cultivated. 
It was carried to England b}^ Flemish refugees in the days 
of Elizabeth, and the leaves were thought beautiful 
enough to be used in ladies' head-dresses. Cultivation has 
thus changed a wild, worthless plant into the most nutri- 
tious of all roots. 



222 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

The best varieties for the garden are 

Early Horn, which is very early, high colored, and 
sweeter than the other varieties. It does not grow so long 
as the others, and -may be known by its conical root short- 
ening abruptly to a point. It will grow closer together, 
and is better on shallow soils than the other kinds. 

Early French Short Horn is an earlier and superior va- 
riety of the above ; for an early crop the best. 

Altringham. — Color, bright red, and growing with the top 
an inch or two above ground, which sometimes freezes in 
very severe winters, if left in the ground. Of excellent 
quality. 

Long Orange. — Is paler in color, and of great length, 
the root not above the ground. It is next in quality to 
the above, and best for winter use. The ash of the roots 
and leaves of carrots has been analyzed by Way and Ogs- 
ton, and found to be constituted as stated below : 



Potassa, 


ROOT. 

37.55 


LEAVES. 

7.28 


Soda, 


. 12.63 


9.46 


Lime, . . . , 


9.76 


34.98 


Magnesia, 


. 3.78 


2.50 


Sesquioxide of Iron, 


.74 


4.06 


Sulphuric Acid, 


. 6.34 


6.68 


Silica, . . - . 


.76 


7.39 


Carbonic Acid, 


. 15.15 


16.29 


Phosphoric Acid, . 


8.37 


2.55 


Chloride of Sodium . 


. 4.91 


S.ll 



99.99 99.96 
The salt and lime mixture, composted with leaf mould 

or swamp muck, a little- plaster of Paris, bone-dust, and 

wood-ashes, are the special manures needed by the carrot. 

A little common salt is worth much more for this crop 

than its value in good manure. 

Culture. — Carrots like a light and fertile soil, dug full 



CARROT. 223 

two spades deep for tlie long varieties, as tliey require a 
deeper soil than any other garden vegetable. The manure 
should be put as near the bottom as you can get it ; but 
the soil should be fertilized by a previous crop if you 
would have fine, smooth roots. Guano is an excellent ap- 
plication to this vegetable. The seeds may be sown in 
beds four feet wide, any time from January to April inclu- 
sive, thinly in drills, twelve inches apart. Cover the seed 
about half an inch deep. A carrot seed is very slow to 
vegetate. The short-topped, scarlet radish may be sown 
thinly in the same drills, just to mark the rows, that they 
may be cultivated before they are overgrown with weeds. 
By the time the carrots are well up, the radishes will be 
fit to pull. The ground should be kept well worked, light, 
and mellow. Thin the young plants, when two or three 
inches high, to six inches apart. In short, the culture of 
carrot is exactly the same as for the beet, Avlilch see. Six 
hundred bushels have been produced from one acre. The 
carrots need not be pulled, but may be left safely in the 
ground to draw as wanted for use during the winter. In 
severe weather, they may be protected by a covering of 
litter ; but it is hardly necessary, except for the Altring- 
ham. 

For Seed. — It is much the best practice to leave some 
of the finest plants where raised, to blossom and seed the 
next summer ; save only the principal umbels. Each head 
should be cut as it turns brown, dried in the shade, rubbed 
out, and dried in paper bags. The seed will not vegetate 
if more than two years old. 

Use. — The carrot is a very wholesome food for man or 
beast. It contains almost »ix times as much nutriment as 
the Irish potato in the same weight. It not only gives 
sustenance itself, but renders other food more easily digest 
ible, according to Professor Mapes. 



224 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

It contains large quantities of pectin acid, which has the 
peculiar property of gelatinizing all fluids with which it is 
mixed, thus making them easily to be digested. This 
renders them, aside from their flavor, a very valuable ad- 
dition to all stews and soups. It is also boiled plain, 
pickled, and made into puddings and pies. Boiled or grated 
it is an excellent poultice for foul and cancerous ulcers. 
The grated root is often added to cream to improve the 
color of winter butter. One carrot grated into cold water, 
will color cream enough for eight pounds of butter, with- 
out any injury to the flavor. One bushel of boiled carrots 
and one of corn, are said to be worth as much as two 
bushels of corn to feed to pigs. They are excellent for 
feeding horses and milch cows, and for this purpose are 
the most profitable of all roots in deep fertile soils. 

To Boil. — Boil, without peeling,*two hours, or until ten- 
der ; remove their skin, cut them in slices, and serve with 
butter and salt; pectin acid to the contrary, they are not 
rery digestible unless perfectly boiled. 

Carrot Pies. — These should be made like pumpkin pies. 
The carrots should be boiled very tender, skinned, and 
passed through a colander. 

Dioscorca Batatas — Chinese Yam. ' 
This plant was introduced some six years since into 
France by Montigny, the French Consul at Shanghai. It 
has annual stalks or vines, and perennial tuberous roots. 
The leaves are opposite, triangular, cordate, acuminate 
above, with round basilar lobes, seven or eight nerved, 
converging towards the top. The length and breadth of 
the leaf is about equal, having a smooth and glossy surface, 
and of a deep green color. Its footstalks are half the 
length of the leaf, furrowed, and of violet color. Its flow- 
ers are dioecious, and of a pale yellow color. 



CHINESE YAM. 225 

Culture. — In autumn the smallest tubers are selected 
and preserved from frost by covering them in a pit with 
earth and straw. In spring these are planted near each 
other in a trench, in well-prepared soil. When they have 
put out shoots a yard or two in length, they cutoff the 
joints and leaves containing the buds, and plant for repro- 
duction. For this purpose they form the ground into 
ridges, on the top of which a shallow trench is made with 
the hand or a hoe, in which these joints are planted, cover- 
ing them slightly with fine earth, and with the leaves ris- 
ing just on the surface. Should it rain they will shoot 
immediately ; if not, water them gently until they do. In 
fifteen or twenty days they develop new stalks and tubers, 
the former of which must be removed from time to time to 
prevent their taking root on the sides, and thus injure the 
development of the tubers already formed. Another 
method is to cut the tubers into fragments of moderate size, 
placing their eyes in small pots, to be transplanted into 
a deep, rich soil when the danger from frost is over. March, 
in this latitude, would be the time for potting to transplant 
in April. Probably they should be planted about twelve 
inches asunder, in rows three or four feet apart, and culti- 
vated like sweet potatoes, except no earthing-up is re- 
quired. Where roots are required for reproduction, and 
not for the table, let the vines as they extend be buried 
horizontally, just beneath the surface, with the midrib of 
the leaves resting on the ground. Small tubers, about the 
size of a pea, will be formed at the angle of each leaf, which, 
if kept until the next spring, will grow with as much vigor 
as if produced from the cut tubers. 

Use. — The roots, which are oblong and tapering, are the 

edible part. The maximum size to which they grow is two 

inches in diameter, the larger end tapering upward to the 

size of the finger. They are covered with a brownish, 

10* 



226 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

fawn-covered skin, pierced by numerous rootlets. Under 
this is a cellular tissue of a white opal color, very crispy, 
filled Avith starch and a milky mucilaginous fluid, with 
scarcely any woody fibre. When cooked it dries like the 
Irish potato, the taste of which it resembles. Each plant 
often produces several tubers, but generally only one, 
ranging in weight from eight ounces to three pounds. It 
is more nutritive than the Irish potato, which it may possi- 
bly rival in esteem. 

The Jajpan Yam has been cultivated the present season 
(1855) in the United States, but mostly for the increase of 
small tubers for reproduction. A friend writes me that he 
has " cooked one and found it excellent." It is still too 
soon to say much about its mode of culture or value. 

The other yams, Dioscorea sativa and alata, are culti- 
vated on the gulf coast to some extent, and in the same 
manner as the sweet potato, except that the vines are sup- 
ported by a stake or pole. The Alata sometimes grows 
three feet in length, and often weighing thirty pounds. 
(See Patent Office Report for 1854.) 



Ervum Lens — Lentil. 
The garden lentil is an annual leguminous plant cultiv- 
ated in France for its flat seeds, of which two are contained 
in each pod. Lentils like a rich sandy soil, and are planted 
in April, with snap beans, as, like them, they are apt to be 
injured by late frosts. They are planted in drills covered 
lightly, and the young plants must be cultivated like the 
bean ; v/hich see. Harvest them when the pods begin to 
turn brown. Green or dry they are cooked like beans, 
and when dry, should be boiled two hours and a half. 
Soak in water before boiling. When done add butter, 
pepper and salt. They are an excellent addition to soups, 



CORN SALAD — JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 22 V 

being very nutritious, but like peas and beans, do not al- 
ways agree Avitli persons of Aveak digestion. From seed 
obtained by me of the Patent Office, plenty of vine was 
raised but not much seed. 

Fedia OUtoria — Corn Salad, or Fetticus. 

Corn Salad, or Fetticus is a small annual plant, a native 
of English wheat-fields. It has long, narrow leaves of a 
pale glaucous hue, and very small pale blue flowers col- 
lected in a corymb. It has long been cultivated in Eng- 
lish gardens as a winter and spring salad. 

Culture. — Corn Salad likes a loam of moderate fertility 
not too heavy. It is raised from seed, one quarter of an 
ounce of which vrill sow a bed four feet by fifteen. Sow 
seed of the preceding year's grou^th early in October, in 
drills six inches apart. The only culture needed is to thin 
the plants when well up to four inches in the drills, and 
keep free from weeds by frequent hoeing. Gather the 
leaves to eat while young, taking the outer ones as you 
would spinach. It will be fit for use all winter. If de- 
sired, another sowing may be made the first of February 
for spring use. 

For Seed. — Leave some of the plants to shoot up to seed 
in the spring. 

Z7se. — It is used during winter and early spring, to in- 
crease the variety of small salads, and as a substitute for 
lettuce. In France it is boiled like spinach. 

Hdianthus TvJjerosus — Jerusalem Artichoke. 
This is a hardy perennial plant, a species of sun-flower, 
a native of Brazil, introduced into England in 1617, and 
was much esteemed as a garden vegetable until the Irish 
potato took its place. The crops obtained in good soils 
are enormous. 



228 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

The salts foinicl in the ashes are mainly potash and lime, 
the former very largely. 

Culture. — It flourishes best in a rich, light soil, with an 
open exposure, biit will thrive in almost any soil or loca- 
tion. Plant from December to March, either small tubers 
or the large ones, cut into sets of one or two eyes, four 
inches deep, in rows three and a half feet each way. Keep 
the ground free from weeds and earth up slightly. They 
will be fit for use in the fall. Take care to dig them up 
thoroughly, as the slightest piece will vegetate. They 
will grow on land too poor for almost anything else. 
If the top be cut off one-half way down in August, it is 
said by some that the size of the tuber will be very much 
increased by the admission of air and light. This is 
doubtful. 

Use. — The roots are eaten boiled, mashed with butter, 
are considerably nutritive, and have a moist soft texture, 
and tolerably agreeable taste. It is however, rather a 
second-rate dish. They are better pickled in vinegar. 
The plant is most useful in feeding cows and pigs, afford- 
ing large quantities of food from quite poor soils. 

Hibiscus Esculent us — Okra. 

This is an annual plant, a native of the West-Indies, 
and much esteemed and cultivated wherever its merits 
are known. It is of quite recent introduction into our 
gardens. 

There are two varieties of Okra, the round, smooth 
green, and the long fluted or ribbed white, but there 
seems to be little difference in quality or otliBrwise, except 
in the shape of the pods. 

Okra likes a good dry soil. Any soil will produce it 
that is good enough for the cotton plant, to the natural 
family of which it belongs. The pods are not as pleasant 



OKRA. 229 

or early on over-rich soil. It is not planted until the 
frosts are over, say about the first of April, as it is ex- 
tremely tender, though it often comes up from self-sown 
seed. The time of planting cotton is a very good rule, 
though some may be put in as an experiment, two weeks 
earlier. Make the drills three feet apart, sow the seed 
rather thinly and thin out, when they grow large, to two 
feet apart in the drill. Those thinned out may be trans- 
planted and will make productive plants. No seed should 
be allowed to ripen on those stalks from which the pods 
are gathered for eating. As fast as the pods grow hard 
or unfit for use, cut them ofi", for if left on, the stalk will 
cease to be productive. If not allowed to ripen seed, the 
plants will continue bearing through the season. 

To Save Seed. — Leave some of the earliest plants to 
ripen seed, if you would have this vegetable in good sea- 
son. Shell out the seed, and stow away in paper bags. 

Use. — The pods gathered in a green state, and so ten- 
der as to snap easily in the fingers, are the parts employed 
in cooking. If old, they are worthless. They are very 
wholesome, considerably nutritious, very mucilaginous, 
and impart an agi-eeable richness to soups, sauces, and 
stews. They are also boiled simply in salt and water, 
and served up with butter, pepper, &c. Okra can be pre- 
served for winter use, by putting down the pods in salt 
like cucumbers, or by cutting them into thin slices and 
drying like peaches. When dry, put up in paper bags. 
The seed is used as a substitute for coffee, which I think 
it not very likely to supersede. 

Okra Sou/p. — Wash and slice thin two dozen young 
okra ; add two onions chopped fine ; put into a stew pan, 
with a knuckle of veal, a gallon of water, and a bit 
of bacon ; add six peeled tomatoes ; stew until quite thick, 
which will be in three or four hours and serve, with or 



230 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

without the meat, as you like. A chicken, or a piece of 
beef, may be substituted for the veah 

Humulus Lupulis — Hop. 

The hop is a plant with a perennial root, throwing out 
many herbaceous climbing stems, and is found growing 
wild on the banks of rivers in Europe, Siberia, and our 
own country. It was cultivated in England, on or before 
1525, when the old doggerel states : 

"Hops, heresy, pickerel, and beer, 
Were brought into England in one year.'' 

A few roots should be in the garden, as they are useful in 
making yeast and beer. 

Culture. — It is propagated by dividing the roots in au- 
tumn and spring. Give the plant a deep, rich soil; put 
two or three plants, six inches apart, in a hill, making 
with the plants, when set, a triangle, and the hills six or 
eight feet apart. Keep the ground free from weeds, and 
well stirred. Manure them every year. Give them poles 
twelve or fourteen feet long, and two or three poles to 
each hill. Gather when of a straw color, and you find the 
inside of the hop covered with a plentiful yellow dust, and 
the seeds begin to be plump ; dry them thoroughly, and 
put them up in bags for use. 

Use. — We have said that the principal use of hop was 
in the preparation of yeast, &c. The young shoots and 
suckers are boiled and eaten as asparagus. They are 
very largely cultivated in fields, and used in the manufac- 
ture of ale and strong beer. Its medicinal qualities are 
tonic and soporific. A pillow filled with hops Avill produce 
sleep, Avithout the ill effect of opiates. 



LETTUCE. 231 

Laduca Sativa — Lettuce. 

Tlie botanical name of this plant is derived from lac, tlie 
Latin word for milk, on account of its milky juice. It is 
an annual hardy plant, of which the cabbage varieties 
probably originated in Egypt, The Cos lettuce, how- 
ever, came from the Greek island of Cos, in the Levant. 
It has been cultivated in England since 1562. 

Of the two great families of lettuce, the Cos varieties, 
which grow upright and of an oblong shape, and require 
blanching, though more esteemed in England, do not, unless 
sown early in October, succeed so well in this country. 
The cabbage varieties are more hardy and free growing, 
and better adapted to our common gardens. The follow- 
ing have proved excellent with me : — 

Butter or Early Cahhage. — Heads small, white, crisp, 
and closely cabbaged; leaves pale yellowish green; ex- 
cellent for hot-bed culture, as well as open air ; early and 
hardy. 

Brown Dutch (yellow seeded). — Heads much larger; 
equally tender and excellent, and closely headed; with 
brownish green leaves. Will stand any frost, without pro- 
tection. 

About two weeks after these, if sown at the same time, 
will come into use the next three varieties : — 

Royal Callage. — Black seed ; heads larger, and leaves 
of a darker green than the early cabbage ; equally firm 
and crisp. 

PhiladclpJiia Callage. — Of the same season, and equally 
good. 

Victoria Callage. — Withstands the heat rather better 
than the two preceding, and produces large white, crisp 
heads ; perhaps the most desirable of the three. 

After these come on ; — 



232 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH 

Curled India. — Leaf of a light yelJow green, and very 
much curled ; a very distinct sort ; heads large and close, 
but not so fine and crisp as the other varieties, but will 
continue to head much later. In a rich, shaded situation, 
if well watered and frequently hoed, it will make good 
heads most of the summer. 

White Cos. — This is the best of the Cos varieties for 
this climate. Leaves long; growth upright and vigorous, 
like Endive, it should be tied a few days, and it will blanch 
beautifully. 

Paris Gree7i Cos. — An upright grower; crisp and excel- 
lent ; also requires tying. 

Here follows an analysis of the ash of the stalks and 
leaves of lettuce, made by Griepenkerl : 



Potassa, .... 


. 22.37 


Soda, : . . . . 


. 18.50 


Lime, .... 


. 10.43 


Magnesia, 


5.68 


Sesquioxide of Iron,. . 


. 2.82 


" " Manganese, 


trace 


Sulphuric Acid, 


. 3.85 


Silica, 


. 11.86 


Phosphoric Acid, 


. 9.39 


Chloride of Sodium, 


. 15.09 



99.99 

The analysis would seem to indicate the application of 
wood ashes and common salt as the most important requi- 
sites for this crop, besides animal manure. 

Culture. — In raising good lettuce there are three things 
necessary, good seed, good soil, and frequent hoeing, and 
of these the first is perhaps the most important. There is 
generally no difficulty in making lettuce seed vegetate, 
but if it is not made from good heads it will not produce 
heads even with the best culture. Lettuce likes a good 



LETTUCE. 238 

mellow soil enriclied witli well rotted manure. Do not 
think of getting good heads on poor ground. Few of the 
Cos lettuces, except the white Cos and Paris, do well here, 
and fine cabbage lettuce is less trouble to raise, and good 
enough for any table. Lettuce may be sown in October 
and November, and again from January to April. That 
sown in the fall, except the Cos varieties, will come on 
earlier, but is not so good as the heads from the spring 
sowing. Sow thinly in drills eight inches apart. An ounce 
of seed will produce about ten thousand plants. Let the 
seed be very lightly covered, and if dry weather, press the 
earth upon it by walking over it on a board, or patting it 
with the back of the spade. Beds about four feet wide 
are most convenient. If the lettuce comes up too thickly 
in the drills it must be thinned, as the plants begin to 
crowd, to two inches apart. Transplant into the ground, 
where it is to remain w^hen the plants show four leaves. 
The Early Cabbage may be planted nine inches apart each 
way ; but the other varieties will not do with less than afoot. 
The soil into which they are to be removed to head must be 
rich, light, and mellow. Transplant in moist weather with 
a trowel, disturbing the roots as little as possible. Water 
the plants until established. Rabbits are very fond of let- 
tuce, but can be kept off by dusting the young plants with 
ashes. After the young plants get established, give them 
deep and frequent hoeings ; and if you sowed good seed 
there can be but little danger of your not being rewarded 
with beautiful crisp heads. The October sowing should 
be of the Butter and Brown Dutch and Cos varieties. This 
will yield small salad in mild weather through the winter, 
besides plants for early heads. A second sowing of these 
should be made in February. The later kinds may be put 
in as late as April with success. If no lettuce has been 
sown in October or November, for heading early in the 



234 CTAnDENIXG FOR THE SOUTH. 

spring, a little should be sown in January in a cold frame 
under glass. Give it plenty of air, but keep it covered 
niglits and cold days, and as the weather grows mild leave 
off the glass altogether a little while before setting out in 
the open air. The early sown Butter lettuce may also be 
transplanted under glass at nine inches apart, and the table 
be kept supplied in this way with fresh heads all winter. 
Plenty of air must be given them, and they should be 
covered in freezing weather only. Hoe deep and often. 
For a fall heading, a crop can be sown in August at the 
same time with turnips in a shady situation, which being 
transplanted, will give good heads in November and Decem- 
ber. The fall and summer sow^ings do much better if 
thinned to a suitable distance, and allowed to head where 
they stand, as lettuce plants are very impatient of trans- 
planting in hot weather. The Butter and the Brown 
Dutch are the best for this sowing. 

Seed. — Some of the finest and most perfect heads of the 
early sown crops should be selected. Unless from a good 
head the seed cannot be depended upon. Each variety 
must be kept separate, and all imperfect heading plants 
near them destroyed. Tie them to stakes and gather the 
branches as fast as they ripen. Dry the seed in the shade, 
and thresh and store in paper bags. Lettuce seed cannot 
be relied upon when more than two years old. 

Use. — ^^Lettuce is the most popular of all salads, and it 
is also sometimes used in soups. Boiled, it is quite equal 
to spinach. It is fit to boil from the time it is large 
enough until the seed stalk begins to shoot up. Its juice 
contains a narcotic principle somewhat like opium, which 
is in small proportions when young, but increases with the 
ago of the plant. This principle has not the constipating 
effects of opium. A tea prepared of lettuce leaves is bene- 
ficial in cases of dian^hoea. For a common salad, let the 



CRESS — BASIL. 235 

leaves be carefully picked early in the morning, waslied 
and drained before sent to the table, and provide salt, 
oil, sugar, and vinegar, that each person may season to his 
taste. The finer salads require hard-boiled eggs, mustard, 
and other spices, &:c. 

Lepidum Sativum — Cress. 

Cress, or " Peppergrass," as the best variety has been 
named from its pungent flavor, has been cultivated in Eng- 
land since 1548, being probably a native of Persia or 
Cyprus. 

Culture. — Cress likes a light, moist mould, and in sum- 
mer a shady border is to be preferred. It is proj)agated 
from seed, which, to keep up a succession of young and 
tender plants, must be sown every week or two. Give it 
rich earth that it may grow rapidly. It is best when an 
inch high, but is generally allowed to get two or three 
before cropping. Begin to sow in February, in the open 
ground, in drills six or eight inches apart ; cover lightly, 
and pat over the bed with the back of the spade to press 
the earth upon the seed. Keep the ground clear, and 
water in dry weather. It can be had all winter by the use 
of the cold frame or hot bed, and in the latter case can be 
grown fit for use in forty-eight hours; give plenty of air. 
A few rows left uncut will produce seed abundantly. 

Use. — The young and tender leaves give to salads a 
warm, pungent, and agreeable taste. It is generally used 
in connection with lettuce and other salads. 

Ocy mum — B a s I L . 

Ocymum Basilicum, Sweet Basil, and Ocymum Minimum, 

Bush Basil, are the names of the two species in cultivation. 

Both are annuals and natives of the East Indies, with 

small leaves a»d:^mall white flowers. Sweet basil is the 



236 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

species most cultivated, and was introduced into England 
in 1548. 

Culture. — Basil likes a rich, light soil, free from shade. 
The plants maybe started early in March, under glass, 
and transplanted when of sufficient size where they are 
to remain. Basil is rather difficult to transplant, but can 
be carefully lifted in tufts with the balls of earth attached, 
in a moist time,with complete success ; give water until 
established. They can also be sown on the borders where 
they are to remain, but if sown too early in the open air, 
the seed is apt to rot or the young plants to be killed by 
frost as they are rather tender. April is the month for sowing 
in the open ground. Do not cover the seed deeply, but 
press the earth upon it. Make the rows ten inches apart, 
and thin the Sweet basil to ten inches and the Bush to five 
inches in the row. Weeds must be kept under and the 
soil mellow by frequent hoeing. Basil also makes a very 
pretty edging. It should be cut not too closely just as it 
comes into flower and hung up in small bundles in the 
shade to dry for winter use ; thus cut it will soon grow up 
again. When thoroughly dried it may be pounded 
fine and kept any length of time in closely stopped 
bottles. 

Seed. — Let some of the finest plants remain uncut and 
gather the seed as they ripen. 

Use. — The leaves and small tops are the parts employed 
and give a delightful flavor in cookery. They have a 
strong flavor of cloves, and are much used in soups and 
sauces, and other high seasoned dishes. They are much 
employed in French cookery. 

A small sprig of basil, on account of its odor, is an agree- 
able addition to a bouquet of flowers. It is the most 
agreeable of the pot herbs and the most useful after 
parsley and sage. 



MARJORUM— PARSNIP. 237 

Origanum — Marjoram. 

The name Origanum in Greek signifies delight of the 
mountain, and this plant is thus named from its growing 
in dry, elevated situations. Four species of this plant are 
cultivated, of which two are sufficient for the garden. 
These are 

Origanum Marjoram. — Sweet maijoram, a hardy annual 
or biennial plant, a native of Portugal, and introduced into 
English gardens in 1573. It has small, acute leaves, and 
it flowers in small, close heads. 

Origanum Herachotimm. — Winter marjoram, a hardy 
perennial, a native of Greece, and first cultivated in Eng- 
land in 1640. Leaves like the preceding^ but flowers in 
spikes. 

Culture. — Marjoram likes a dry, tolerably rich soil, and 
free from shade. Sweet marjoram is propagated from 
seed ; the other, by seed or by dividing the roots in the 
spring and fall. The plants must be watered until estab- 
lished. Plants of Sweet maijoram should be six inches 
apart ; while twelve is not too much for the other variety. 
Sow from February to April. As the seeds of the marjo- 
ram are very small, the ground must be prepared very 
finely, and a very light mark made for them, covering 
them by drawing over them the back of the rake. The 
culture is like basil, which see. To preserve the tops for 
winter use, and to save seed, also see "Basil."' 

Use. — Both species are aromatics of sweet flavor, much 
used in soups, broths, stuffings, &c. The young and ten- 
der leaves are used while green, and the tops dried for 
winter use. 

Pasiinaca Sativa — Parsnip. 
This is a biennial, a native of Sardinia and various parts 
of Europe, It has long been an inmate of the garden. In 



288 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



its wild state, it is said to have poisonous properties; but 
it is rendered by cultivation sweet, palatable, and very 
nutritious for man and beast. The garden parsnips have 
smooth and light-green leaves, while those of the wild va- 
riety are dark-green and hairy ; but the two do not differ 
so much as the wild and cultivated carrot. This plant is 
of the hardiest nature, being improved by remaining in the 
ground exposed to frost during the winter. The best va- 
riety for the garden is the Hollow-crown or Sugar parsnip. 
Its roots are smoother, more handsome, and better flavored 
than the other varieties. It is distinguished by the cavity 
or cup which crowns the root. The ash of parsnips has 
been analyzed by Richardson, and found to be constituted 
as follows : 



Potassa, 


. 36.12 


Soda, 


3.11 


Lime, 


. 11.43 


Magnesia, . 


9.94 


Sesquioxide of Manganese, 


.89 


Sulphuric Acid, . 


6.50 


Silicic Acid, .... 


. 4.10 


Phosphoric Acid, 


18.66 


Phosphate of Iron, . . 


. 3.71 


Chloride of Sodium 


5.54 



100.00 

Potash and phosphoric acid are the elements most 
likely to be wanting in the soil, in sufficient quantity for 
this crop. Bone-dust and wood-ashes will be the best ad- 
dition which can be made. 

Parsnips like a rich, sandy loam, the more deeply dug 
the better. They do exceedingly well on rich bottom lands, 
but do not succeed well in stiff clays. The manure should 
be applied to a previous crop. If the soil be dug two 
spades deep, or trench-plowed, it will improve the crop. 



PARSNIP. 239 

Parsnip seed can be sown in January, Febniary, and 
March, in drills fourteen inches apart : scatter the seeds 
thinly in the drills, and also sow radish seed thinly as di- 
rected for carrots, to mark out the rows, as the seed is 
slow in vegetating. If you do not need the radishes, cut 
off the tops, and leave them to decay in the soil which' 
they will enrich. Pulling out the radishes lets in the air 
and fertilizing gases to the roots of the 3"oung parsnips, 
and the radishes are quite fit to pull by the time the 
parsnips are well up. As they mark out the rows the beds 
can be hoed before they get full of weeds. If soAvn alone 
the beds are full of weeds before the parsnips are ready to 
hoe, and the labor of culture is much increased. Thin out 
the plants gradually to three, then to eight inches. Let- 
tuce and cabbage seed may be sown in drills between the 
rows of parsnips to be transplanted early. Parsnip seed 
may also be planted in the fall ; but there is no advantage 
in it. The details of the culture of parsnip are exactly 
like carrot, which see. The roots need not be pulled until 
needed for use. 

For Seed. — A few of the best roots may remain where 
grown. Keep free from weeds and they will yield abund- 
antly. They may also be taken up and set out two feet 
apart in a border ; but they do better to remain undis- 
turbed. The seeds cannot be depended on for more than 
one year. 

Use. — The parsnip is a very wholesome and nourishing 
root, though its peculiar sweetish taste is disliked by many 
persons. It is however a very agreeable addition to our 
supply of winter vegetables. Its fattening properties are 
great, and it is therefore an excellent root for feeding all 
kinds of farm stock. Cows fed upon it will yield milk 
abundantly, and butter of the best quality. Its seeds are 
sometimes employed in intermittents. 



240 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

To Boil. — Parsnips are cooked as carrots, but tliey do 
not require so much boiling. They are often served up 
differently, being mashed with some butter, a little cream, 
and seasoned with pepper and salt. 

Phaseolus Vulgaris — Bush-beans or Snaps. 

An annual, a native of India, brought to England in 
1597. The running beans belong to a different species, 
and are treated of in a separate article. Bush-beans are 
generally called snaps from their breaking crisply. The 
following are good varieties : — 

Early Mohawk. — Pods long, beans large oval with dark- 
colored specks ; it bears very well is the earliest variety, 
and is least injured by frost. In good seasons, fit for the 
table about five weeks after sowing. 

Early Vale.nthie. — Pods round, and continue crisp longer 
than most other varieties. The beans are pink-speckled 
on a salmon ground ; bears well . Sown with Early Mohawk, 
is about five days later. 

Late Valentine. — Pods similar to the foregoing, equally 
crisp and tender, color dark brown speckled ; a better 
bearer and grows more thrifty than the foregoing. One 
of the best sorts. About ten days later than the Mohawk. 

Royal Kidney. — Pods long, beans finely flavored, white, 
and large, but later than any of the other varieties. Sown 
at the same time, is a fortnight later than the Mohawk. 
Of this variety the ripe beans, if they are gathered and 
dried in an oven to prevent their destruction by the bug, 
are excellent for winter use. 

Besides the abovenamed, I have tried Turtle Soup, 
Yellow six weeks, and several other varieties, but the 
foregoing are the best. 

Here follows an analysis of the ash of kidney beans 
made by Richardson : — 



KIDNEY BEANS. 




Potassa, . . 


. 36.83 


Soda, 


18.40 


Lime, 


. 7.75 


Magnesia, .... 


6.33 


Sulphuric Acid, 

Silicic Acid, .... 


. 3.96 
4.09 


Phosphoric Acid, 
Phosphate of Irou, 
Chloride of Sodium, . 


. 14.60 
5.24 

. 2.80 



241 



100.00 



Wood-ashes and bone-dust or superphosphate of lirne, 
will supply the soil with the most necessary elements for 
this crop, which, by the way, like most legumes, draws 
most of its sustenance from the atmosphere. 

Culture. — Snap-beans are of the easiest culture in this 
climate, and are less particular about soil than in colder 
latitudes. The soil for the early crop should be dry and. 
light ; if wet or tenacious the seed often decays without 
germinating or comes up spindling and unproductive. For 
the summer-sown crop, a soil slightly moist but still in- 
clining to a sand, is to be preferred. As beans are very 
tender and easily destroyed by frost, there is no use to 
put them in the ground too early. A few may be planted 
in March, but about the first of April is the proper time 
for the first large planting. They may be planted for a 
succession in moist weather from this time to the last of 
August. Plant in drills eighteen inches or two feet a part, 
and the seed two inches apart in the row. Cover the 
seeds about an inch and a half deep. A pint of seed will 
plant about one hundred and twenty five feet of rows. 
When the plants come up, thin them gradually to six or 
eight inches in the row and they will be much more vigor- 
ous and productive. The Refugee or Late Valentine does 
best in hills eighteen inches apart. Plant four or five 

11 



242 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

"beans to a liill. Keep tliem clean always and tlie soil 
light and mellow with the hoe. Draw the earth carefully 
about their stems when about to flower, making broad low- 
hills to protect the roots from heat and drought. If well 
cultivated the same plants will continue to bear well a 
long time. Do not hoe any of the kidney beans whether 
dwarf or runners when the foliage is wet, as the plants 
will rust and be greatly injured, if not destroyed. Choose 
dry weather for working them. For saving seed and use, 
see " Lima Bean." 

Phaseolus Limensis et MuUiflcrus — Pols or Running 
Beans. 

The Phaseolus Multjflorus includes the Scarlet Runners, 
London Horticultural, and many other good varieties, but 
they do not continue long enough in bearing to warrant 
their culture in a hot climate. The Lima beans are also 
much better flavored. Of the Phaseolus Limensis, there 
are the green and white Lima and Carolina Sewee. They 
are natives of South America. The white Lima is not 
quite so large as the green, but bearing with greater 
abundance, is to be preferred. It is also not quite so 
hardy and productive as the Sewee, but is much larger 
and richer flavored. 

Sewee or Carolina. — This is the well-known and favor- 
ite butter bean of the country. It closely resembles the 
Lima bean, but is less in size, earlier, harder, and bears 
much more abundantly, and though not quite so rich, is 
for general culture the best running bean for this climate. 

Culture. — Lima beans require a rich, strong soil, and 
will thrive on heavy loams, where the other running beans 
and snaps would not flourish. They are still more tender 
than snaps, and should not be planted until settled warm 
weather, as the seed will rot in cool weather, and the 



LIMA BEANS. 243 

slightest frost will destroy them if tliey cliance to vege- 
tate. The tenth of April is early enough in this climate. 
Plant in hills five feet apart each way, around a good pole 
eight or ten feet high, driven two feet into the earth. If 
the poles are too high they are late in coming into bearing 
and out of reach in gathering. In planting the Lima and 
other beans, place the eye downward and the narrow end 
the lowest as the bean always rises from the ground in 
that position, and if not planted right it has to turn itself 
over in the soil, and if prevented by any obstruction from 
turning over it is sure to rot in the ground. Planted in 
this way, they come up sooner, better, and more evenly. 
Cover about an inch and a half deep. Put four or five 
beans around each pole, and when Avell up take out the 
weakest, leaving but three plants. A quart of butter- 
beans will plant about four hundred hills. The subse- 
quent culture consists in keeping the ground frequently 
hoed when the vines are dry. They will continue in 
bearing until cut off by the hard frosts. 

For' Seed. — Gather both the Lima and Kidney beans 
when ripe and dry them thoroughly. The seed should 
be kept pure by planting the varieties at a distance from 
each other. As they are certain to be devoured by bugs, 
if saved in paper bags, put them up in glass bottles or 
earthen jugs well corked. Into each one pour before 
corking, a teaspoonful of spirits of turpentine. The tur- 
pentine odor will destroy the bugs without injuring the 
vitality of the bean, if the vessel is tightly corked. 

Use. — The tender fleshy pods of snap-beans are a favor- 
ite summer vegetable, very delicate, wholesome, and 
moderately nutritive. They are boiled and also pickled, 
and may be preserved for winter use, by cutting them 
into pieces and laying them down in salt. They will 
make their own brine, and must be kept covered by it or 



244 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

they will spoil. Cook them in two waters to extract the 
saltness. The Lima beans and the snaps when full grown, 
are shelled and afford in proportion to their weight, more 
nutrition than most other vegetables. Wheat contains 
but 74 per cent, of nutritive matter, while kidney beans 
contain 84 per cent. They abound in the constituents 
that produce muscle and fat, and will supply better than 
most vegetables, the place of animal food. They can also 
be preserved for winter use. Gather them in their green 
state when full grown, and dry them carefully in the sun. 
They are better gathered in this state than if delayed 
until ripe, and are also free from bugs. They must be 
soaked over night before being boiled. They can also be 
laid down with layers of salt like snap beans. They are 
very good gathered when ripe, and dried carefully in an 
oven in order to keep them free from insects. 

To Pickle. — Beans may be pickled in a manner similar 
to cucumbers. 

To Boil Siiap-heans. — Cut off the ends, strip off the 
strings, put in boiling water with salt and boil till tender. 
Do not omit the salt in cooking vegetables ; add butter 
and pepper to the taste. 

To Boil Lima Beans. — Put them into just enough boil- 
ing water to cover them, boil until tender, turn off almost 
all the water ; season with butter salt and pepper. 

To BaJce. — Take two quarts of beans and three pounds 
of pickled pork. Pick the beans over carefully, wash and 
turn them about with a gallon of soft water to a pot. Let 
them soak in it luke-warm over night ; set them in the 
morning where they will boil till the skin is tender and 
about to break, adding a teaspoonful of saleratus. Take 
them up dry, put them in your dish. Gash the pork and 
put it down in the dish so as to have the beans cover all 
but the upper surface ; turn in cold water till the top is 



PEA. 245 

just covered j bake, and let the beans remain in the oven 
all night. 

Pisum Sativum — English Pea. 

The Pea is a hardy annual, probably a native of the 
South of Europe, China, and Japan, but has been cultiva- 
ted from time immemorial. It is a climbing plant, pro- 
ducing its seeds in legumes or pods which usually grow 
in pairs. The pea is now one of the most desirable culi- 
nary plants. Numerous varieties have been originated 
differing in the color of the blossoms, height, and time of 
ripening, and also in productiveness. Of these, four or 
five kinds are sufficient for any garden. Among the best 
are : 

Prince Albert. — The earliest pea known, grows two and 
a half feet high. Pods and peas are both small but well 
flavored. A good bearer. 

Landreth's Extra Early. — This celebrated early pea 
comes into use about five days after the preceding, and 
with the Cedo-Nulli. The whole crop ripens at once. It 
is not very productive. Two and a half feet high. 

Ccdo-NuUi comes into use with the preceding, and is a 
much finer pea. It has a longer pod, which is better filled. 
The vines are taller, and it bears about twice as many pods 
to the stalks as the Extra Early; the most prolific of 
early peas, and continues long in bearing; two and a 
half to three feet high. 

Fairlank's Champion. — This is the very best large pea; 
a wrinkled marrow, of the highest excellence ; grows 
about four feet high, and bears abundantly with me, and 
is the pea I prefer to all others for the main crop. The 
peas are very large, slightly shrivelled, and of a bluish 
cast, when dry. It is about three weeks later than the 
Prince Albert, 



246 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



Knight's Tall Marrow. — Grows about six feet higli ; 
bears a long time and abundantly, and is of first-rate ex- 
cellence ; later than the above. 

JYew Mammoth. — A pea of the same height, and of equal 
excellence with the foregoing ; comes into use about the 
same season ; productive. 

If the above are not to be had, Early Frame, Early 
Charlton, Early Grotto, Dwarf Blue Imperial, Blue Mar- 
row, Banksian Marrow, Blue Prussian, Knight's Dwarf 
Marrow, and Woodford's Prolific, are among the best re- 
maining sorts. 

The best three varieties for a succession are Prince 
Albert, Cedo-Nulli, and Champion of England. If con- 
fined to two, I should reject the Prince Albert, though the 
earliest of the three. 

An analysis of the ash of the seed and straw of peas has 
been made by Erdmann, and is as follows : — 



Potassa, . . . 


40.70 


33.30 


Soda, 




1.50 


Lime, . 


2.21 


19.20 


Magnesia, 


7.03 


3.90 


Sulphuric Acid, 


4.17 


6.60 


Chlorine, . 




13.46 


Silicic Acid, 




7.60 


Carbonic Acid, 




5.20 


Phosphoric Acid, . 


44.42 


6.90 


Phosphate of Iron, . 


1.47 


1.40 


Sand, . 




3.80 



100.00 102.86 



Potash and phosphoric acid are large constituents of the 
ash of the pea. Ashes and bone-dust, or superphosphate 
of lime, especially the former, are likely to be the special 
manures most needed. 



PEA. 247 

Culture. — A moderately rich and dry soil is best suited 
for tlie early pea and tlie d^varf varieties. The late peas 
and the lofty growers do better in heavier soil, and a cool, 
moist situation. The manure should be applied early the 
preceding autumn, to be well reduced by the time the 
crop of peas are ready to feed upon it. In poor ground, 
fresh stable manure is better than none. If the ground 
however, be extremely rich, there will be more vines than 
fruit. Plant the early kinds from the first of January to 
March, and the later ones until early in April. Some 
plant in December. Plant the seed in double drills (made 
with a line, if you would have the garden look neat), and 
six to nine incbes apart, according to the kind, and two 
inches deep. Then cover them an inch deep with mellow 
earth. The rows of early peas should be three feet apart. 
Champion peas should be four, and the taller kinds six. It 
is a good plan to plant them all six feet apart, and a row of 
melon or cucumber hills between them, to come on afte.- 
the peas are gathered. The space between the melon 
hills can be used for lettuce or radishes. Early peas 
should be planted in the drills, about an inch apart. The 
medium growers an inch and a half; while for the tall 
kinds, as Knight's Tall Marrow, and the Mammoth, two 
inches are not two much. A quart of seed of these vari- 
eties will plant not quite fifty yards of double rows, while 
a quart of early peas will plant nearly seventy twice as 
thickly. After the peas are about two inches high, hoe 
them well, drawing the earth a little toward them, and 
loosening the soil between the drills, destroying every 
weed. Eepeat this once or twice, before brushing, which 
should be done when the plants are six or eight inches 
high. This may be done by sharpened branches of trees 
prepared fan-shaped, and of a height proper for the pea to 
which they are to be applied, or stakes may be driven 



248 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

down every six feet each side of the drills, and lines of 
twine stretched from one to the other. Pea brush is, how- 
ever, the best, as the vines lay hold of it more readily. It 
should be placed firm in the ground, between the drills. 
After brushing, draw up the earth on each side, to help 
support the vine. Market gardeners do not employ brush 
or twine, but let them fall over and bear what they will. 
This does tolerably well with the early varieties, if the 
spaces between the rows be filled with straw or leaves. 

Peas may be had in November, by sowing the early 
kinds the last of August; but the crop is uncertain. A 
little further south, peas may be planted not only in Au- 
gust and September, but through the fidl and early winter 
months, and will continue in bearing until the warm wea- 
ther comes on. They are very hardy, and the vines will 
ordinarily bear a temperature of only 2° Fahrenheit, with- 
out injury. If a hard frost occur while the plants are in 
bloom, the crop is lost. 

Seed. — The seed for early peas should be raised in a 
cold climate, as in this latitude, like many other plants, 
they run into later varieties. The plants of the rows 
intended for seed should not be gathered from for any 
other purpose. When the pods begin to dry, gather and 
dry them thoroughly, and store them in bottles, pouring 
into each a little spirits of turpentine, as directed for pre- 
serving beans. The bean and pea bugs belong to the genus 
Bnichus of Linnseus, a family devouring the seed of many 
leguminous plants, and the eggs of both species are de- 
posited by the parent beetle in the soft pods, and directly 
over the seed. The maggots work their way into the seed, 
where they obtain their perfect form. The pea bug does 
not usually destroy the germ, but its congener, the spe- 
cies that infests the bean, is much more destructive, several 
often inhabiting a single bean, and leaving nothing but the 



BURNET. 249 

outer skin and a mass of yellow dust. Spirits of turpen- 
tine appears to be fatal to tliem. 

Use. — The garden pea is very wholesome and nourish- 
ing, and an almost universal favorite. To have them in 
perfection, they should be freshly gathered, and by no 
means allowed to stand over night before use. They 
can be shelled and dried in the shade, and form a tolerably 
agreeable dish in winter, but they are much inferior to 
those freshly picked. They should be soaked a few hours 
in water before using. Green peas should be boiled half 
an hour or more. A very agreeable dish can be made, 
when a few peas begin to be fit for use, by shelling them 
and boiling them, pods and all, in the usual way. When 
done, remove the pods, season to your taste, and pour the 
peas and liquor over toasted bread. The pods, when 
fresh, abound in the true pea flavor, and when boiled with 
the peas and removed, contribute much to the richness of 
the dish. 

Poterium Sangidsorha — Burn et. 

A perennial British plant, not much cultivated, and 
probably never will be. It likes a dry, calcareous soil. 
The leaves are green all winter. It is propagated by 
seeds, cuttings, or dividing the roots. Sow the seed in 
February or March (or better in the fall, as it is slow to 
vegetate), in a drill, six inches apart, and cover lightly. 
Thin to six inches. Keep clean, and free from weeds. 
A dozen plants will be enough. Make new plantations 
once in three years, by dividing the roots in October. 

Use. — The young leaves from young plants are to be 
preferred. They are used in cool tankards and salads, 
and also by the French in soups, as they give a warm, 
pleasant taste. 

11* 



250 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Rajfhan us Sativ us — It a Dis H . 

The radish is an annual, a native of China and Persia, 
and was cultivated as early as 1584, being one of the 
plants mentioned by Girard. The lower leaves are lyrate ; 
stem about two feet high, with pale violet flowers; the 
root fleshy, spindle or globular shaped, of various colors. 
There are two kinds of radish, the spindle-rooted, and the 
globular or turnip-rooted. These are again divided into 
early alid late varieties, among Avliich v>'e will notice ; — 

Early Scarlet Short Top. — Eoot long and spindle-shaped; 
leaves very short. It is the earliest, most crisp and mild 
flavored, and requires less space than the other varieties. 

Salmon. — A few days later ; not so high colored ; other- 
wise similar to the above. 

Red Tiirni'p. — Named from its shape, and bears the heat 
better, without becoming hard, but not so good as the 
above. 

White Turnip. — Like the last, in everything except 
color. 

Yellow Summer. — This is a turnip-rooted variety, named 
from its color, and will stand the heat better than any 
other variety. 

Black Winter or Spanish. — Turnip-shaped, and very 
large ; sown in August or September with turnips. It 
can be gathered from the ground as desired during the 
winter.* 

■•' Early Oval Rose Radish, and Chinese Rose Winter Radish, are 
two new sorts. The former Mr. Barry considers the best variety for 
forcing and the early crop, coming into use sooner than any other 
variety. Tie latter he describes as "tar superior in appearance, as 
well as in tenderness and delicacy, to any other winter sort, and 
keeps well." These are good varieties, as I have proved ; so also is 
the Field Radish, introduced by the Patent Office from France for 
stock : a good winter variety for the table, and liked by stock." 



RADISH. 251 

I have tried all of the above, and finally settled down 
upon the Scarlet Short Top, and the varieties from Mr. 
Barry, as the only ones worth cultivating. The Scarlet 
is much more crisp and digestible than any other, and by 
successive sowings can be had in the open air, or under 
glass, from October until the middle or last of May, by 
which time one gets tired of radishes. The Salmon is a 
very good radish, but most of the summer and winter vari- 
eties are about as wholesome and digestible as a raw tur- 
nip, and very little better flavored. 

The following analysis is by E-ichardson : — 





ROOT. 


LZA^TS. 


Potassa, 


. 21.16 


5.05 


Soda, . . . . 




11.09 


Lime, .... 


8.78 


27.90 


Magnesia, 


. 3.53 


7.08 


Sulphuric Acid, . 


7.71 


9.64 


Silicic Acid, 


. 8.17 


8.22 


Phosphoric Acid, 


. 40.09 


6.07 


Phosphate of Iron, . 


. 2.19 


16.45 


Chloride of Potassium, 


1.29 




Chloride of Sodium, 


. 7.07 


8.50 




99.99 


100.00 



Potash and phosphoric acid are the most important con- 
stituents, and the plants would probably be benefited by 
the application of ashes and superphosphate of lime as 
special manure. 

Culture. — Eadishes like a rich sandy loam, dug a full 
spade deep. Their culture is very simple. If manure be 
freshly applied, it should be at the bottom of the soil, or 
the roots will divide. The short-top rariety is of great 
use (we quote Professor J. J. Mapes) " in assisting seeds 
of slow germinating powers to break the soil. They also 
mark the rows at an early date, and enable weeds to be 



252 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

cleaned out from between them. With carrot, parsnip, 
parsley, leek, celery, and many other seeds that germinate 
slowly, the leaf of the radish will shade the rows, and pre- 
vent the hot sun from baking these more delicate seeds. 
They also prevent the growth of weeds, their long roots 
bringing up moisture from the sub-soil, and pulling the 
roots makes deep holes to admit air and moisture ; thus 
cultivating the standing crop more thoroughly than can 
be done with a hoe." They can also be sown in drills 
between the wide drills of many of the above vegetables, 
as well as spinach, peas, beans, Irish potatoes, yielding 
large crops, and taking up no room available for other pur- 
poses. 

From the first of November until March a succession of 
this variety can be grown under glass. All that is re- 
quired is a bed of good rich loam, watering them occa- 
sionally, and giving air every day, when it does not abso- 
lutely freeze. Let the sash be off every rain, and let the 
earth come within seven or eight inches of the glass. The 
open ground crop can be sown for fall use, if there should 
be a wet spell in October, and in our low country from 
that time until April. Here, however, the first of Febru- 
ary is soon enough for the earliest spring crop, and you 
may continue the sowings of scarlet radish at intervals of 
two weeks, until the middle of April. If you wish later 
radishes, choose the summer varieties for a month or 
longer. Sow in drills an inch deep, and ten inches apart, 
dropping the seeds three inches apart in the drills. They 
are of such rapid growth, that they will generally take 
care of themselves after planting in a good soil, but hoeing 
once will hasten their growth. 

For Seed. — Some of the finest and earliest can remain 
where grown, or be removed to another bed and inserted up 
to their leaves. Water frequently until established, and 



RHUBARB. 253 

while the flowers are opening. Let the roots be three feet 
apart, and do not permit any others to flower near them, 
if you wish pure seed. When the pods turn dry, gather, 
dry, thresh out, and save in paper hags. The seed will 
keep three years. It is best to get seed from a colder cli- 
mate for the early crop, as the roots will come sooner into 
use. From these, seed can be raised for the main crop the 
ensuing year. 

Zhe. — The tops used to be boiled for greens. The sem- 
inal leaves, when they first appear, are used as a salad, 
with cress and mustard, and the seed-pods, gathered young, 
form a good pickle, and are a substitute for capers. But 
the roots are the parts mainly used. They are much 
relished, while young and crisp, for the breakfast table. 
They contain little beside water, woody fibre, and acrid 
matter; so they cannot be very nourishing or wholesome. 
When young, and of good varieties, they are much more 
digestible than when older and more fibrous. The juice 
of radish is said to be good for hoarseness and difficulty of 
breathing. 

Rheum Rhaponticum — Ehubarb . 

The Garden E-hubarb is a perennial, a native of Asia, 
first cultivated in England in 1573. The leaves are very 
large, and supported by large petioles, which are the parts 
used in cooking, and in the finer varieties are an inch or 
two in diameter. It has not been much cultivated in this 
country until within a few years ; but now is in large de- 
mand in all the northern cities, where the culture is very 
easy. The best varieties are 

Buist's Early Red, Avith stalks about three feet long, and 
a week earlier than Myatt's Victoria. Being an American 
plant, it stands the heat better than the European varie- 
ties. Grows large. 



254 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



Myatt^s Victoria. — A strong grower of excellent flavor and 
quite early. These two varieties I have growing. 

Downing's Colossal. — This is an American seedling, 
raised by the late A. J. Downing, and of course may be 
expected to be more hardy and worthy of culture in our 
dry climate than the English varieties. I have not seen 
it, but it is represented to be a very strong grower of the 
highest flavor. 

Myatt's Linnmis. — An imported variety, is now most 
popular at the north. 

The following analysis of the ash of rhubarb was made 
by J. H. Salisbury : — 





ROOT, 


LE.\F STALK. 


lEAF-BLADE. 


Silicic Acid, 


. 4.595 . 


1.557 


. . 8.928 


Phosphates, 


. 34.788 . 


24.702 


. . 22.792 


Lime, . . . . 


. 5.414 . 


2.754 


. 6.744 


Magnesia, . . 


. 3.375 . 


.227 


. 1.363 


Potash, . . 


. 8.349 . 


5.883 


. . 9.247 


Soda, . .. . . 


. 28.607 . 


37 015 


. . 32.143 


Sodium, . 


. .166 . 


1.837 


. 2.479 


Chlorine, . . . 


.255 . 


2.799 


. 3.772 


Sulphuric Acid, 


. 5.957 . 


5.868 


. 5.017 


Organic matter 


) 






thrown down b} 


4 8-494 . 


17.358 


. 7.515 


Nitrate of Silver 


^ 






100.000 


100.000 


100.000 



Ehubarb is remarkable for the quantity of phosphates 
and soda it extracts from the earth. Crude soda might be 
added to the soil. Guano and bone-dust are very bene- 
flcial. 

Culture. — My first experience in raising rhubarb in this 
climate was not very fortunate. A friend, to Avhom I am 
indebted for many really valuable plants, but unacquainted 
with this, hearing that I had sent for the seed, kindly 
offered me several roots which had been given to him for 



EHUBARB. 255 

rhubarb, then growing in his grounds, as his family did not 
like the plant. In consequence, I transplanted a dozen 
roots in my garden. The leaves were too small to agree 
with my notion of rhubarb ; but being winter, I supposed 
it a different variety from the one I had before seen. In 
the spring, when the plant sent up its leaves, it proved to 
be nothing in the world but Patience Dock. The seed 
sent for, came on in season from Mr. Buist, and was planted 
early in March, It came up finely, and proved to be the 
genuine rhubarb. It was planted on the north side of a 
fence, in a rich, moist soil, and grew finely in the early 
part of the sunnner, but died out entirely in July and Au- 
gust, which it is apt to do without great care in shad- 
ing in ordinary seasons. The next autumn I procured 
from Mr. Buist half a dozen roots of his early and Myatt's 
Victoria rhubarb, and after subdividing them, planted them 
in a very deep, moist soil, on the north side of a fence. 
They have grown vigorously the last summer, and we 
were tempted to try them for a rhubarb tart, but did not 
disturb them for fear of injuring the roots. The crowns, 
now December, 1852, a]3pear very healthy and filled with 
good buds. I have but little doubt that in their present 
situation the plants will do well. 

The soil best adapted for rhubarb is a light loam, rich 
and moderately moist. It should be trenched two spades 
deep. In this climate, it will scarcely endure the meridian 
sun, but should be sheltered by fences and buildings ; not 
by trees. It is difficult to raise the roots here from seed. 
They can easier be imported. Set out thirty inches apart. 
Cover them in the fall about two inches deep, with well- 
rotted manure, which dig in the spring. Hoe them often, 
and give a good watering occasionally in dry weather. 

Ehubarb, to be good, must be quickly grown. This 
plant is forced at the north in a cask which is put over it 



256 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

and covered all around with hot dung ; but in this climate 
it would endanger the life of the plants. Do not let the 
plants run up to seed. Every six or eight years the old 
soil should be removed from the roots, and its place sup- 
plied with fresh loam ; or the plants themselves removed 
to a new site. A dozen plants will be sufficient for most 
families.* 

Use. — The leaf-stem of this plant, when the external 
skin is removed, is cut up in thin slices, and having an 
agreeable acid, is used exactly like the apple for pies, tarts, 
and sauce, at a time that other fruits cannot be obtained. 
Gather them while young, just as they attain their full 
size, before they lose their fine flavor. They can be gently 
slipped from the root without using a knife. All medical 
writers state that this is a wholesome vegetable, and it is 
certainly an agreeable luxury. 

When the roots are old, they possess the properties of 
Turkey rhubarb, but in a less degree. Buist states that 
the stems of the varieties used in cooking, if stewed with 
sugar, and eaten with bread, are an infallible remedy for 
dysentery in children. 

Rinnex Acetosa- — Sorrel. 

• 

A perennial plant of remarkable acidity, growing wild 
in various parts of the world, and indicative of a sour, bar- 
ren soil. The garden varieties are natives of Italy and 
the south of France. The French sorrel has broad leaves, 
and is the most pleasant flavored. Sorrel will grow in 

'■'• Many of my roots died in 1853 and '54 ; but those which were 
left produced abundantly, continuing in use about three months in 
the early part of the season. I have now on trenched ground, two 
spades deep, this year (1855) my whole stock. The exposure is 
open, and they seem to prefer it to the partial shade I deemed desi- 
rable when the foregoing article was written. 



SAVORY. 257 

any Tight, moist soil. It is propagated by seed or dividing 
the roots. Sow the last of February, in shallow drills ten 
inches apart, and as they come up, thin them to ten inches 
in the row ; or part the roots in the autumn and spring, 
and set them out at the same distance. Water them oc- 
casionally until well established. Keep the plants free 
from weeds ; cut down the stalks occasionally in the sum- 
mer, and cover the crowns with a very little fresh earth 
that they may send up large and tender leaves. When, 
in two or three years, the plants begin to dwindle, replant 
them in a fresh soil. For seed, let some of the stalks run 
up and gather when ripe. 

Use. — Sorrel is much used by the French in soups, 
sauces, and salads, and also cooked as spinach, and Avlien 
cooked in this way with turnip tops is thought to improve 
their flavor. Some use the leaves in pies as a substitute 
for rhubarb. Sorrel is refrigerant, antiseptic, and a sover- 
eign remedy for the scurvy. 

Salureja — Savory. 

There are two species in cultivation; the Summer savory, 
Satureja horttnsis, a hardy annual; and Winter savory, 
Satureja montana, a shrubbly perennial — both natives of 
Italy, and cultivated for their warm aromatic tastes. 

Both may be propagated by seed. Sow in March, 
moderately thick in small drills nine inches apart, and 
rake in lightly. The soil need be but moderately rich. 
The plants may remain to be thinned to six inches apart 
for summer savory or the thinnings may be transplanted 
to the same distance. Winter savory requires more room, 
the plants should be a foot apart. This can be propagated 
also by slips, cuttings, or division of the roots. All the 
care required is to keep free from weeds. Seed can be 



258 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

gathered as it ripens from a root or two left uncut for tlie 
purpose. 

Use. — The leaves of these herbs are much employed in 
soups, salads, stuffings, &;c., on account of their agreeable 
pungent flavor. They are also said to possess the desira- 
ble power of " expelling fleas from a bed." Formerly, they 
were much used in medicine. Gather w^hen they come into 
bloom and dry for winter use in the shade, pound in a 
mortar, pass through a sieve, and put up in bottles closely 
stopped and they will retain their fragrance any length 
of time. 

Scandix Cerefolium — Chervil. 

An annual plant, a native of Southern Europe, with 
finely divided leaves somewhat resembling parsley. For- 
merly it was much cultivated. 

It is propagated from seed and should be sown in the 
autumn or in February and March. Make the drills very 
shallow and nine inches apart, and cover lightly with the 
back of the rake. When the leaves are three or four 
inches high they are fit for use. Keep them closely cut 
and they will afford a succession for some time. Keep 
the soil light and free from weeds, and let a few shoots 
remain uncut to run up to seed. 

Use. — The young leaves have a milder flavor than 
parsley and are used in soups and salads, and also boiled. 
" Chervil should be eaten " says an old writer, <* with oil 
and vinegar, being first boiled, which is very good for old 
people that are dull and without courage ; it rejoiceth 
and comforteth the heart and increaseth the strength." 
It is now nearly out of use, and seldom cultivated. 

Scorzonera Bispanica—ScoRZONERA. 
Scorzenera is a hardy tap-rooted perennial, a native of 
Spain, Italy, and the South of France, and cultivated in 



MUSTARD. 259 

England since 1576. The stem is two or three feet high, 
few leaved, branched at the top. The flowers are yellow 
and syngenesious. 

Culture. — It is raised from seed which must be sown 
yearly. The soil like that for most root crops, must be 
mellowy deep, and fertile. Sow in February or early in 
March, in drills ten inches apart and half an inch deep. 
When the young plants are two inches high, thin them to 
six or eight inches in the drill. Keep the soil mellow and 
free from weeds as they advance in growth. In short, 
cultivate exactly like salsify. Give water in dry weather. 
The roots will be fit to use in August, and may remain in 
the ground to be dug as wanted. 

To Save Seed. — Let some old plants remain in the 
spring, which will shoot up tall stems, and produce ripe 
seed. 

Zhe. — The roots are agreeable to the taste and nutritive, 
but before use, the bitter outer rind must be scraped off". 
It is then boiled and used like salsify or carrots. The 
roots continue good all winter. The plant is too similar 
to salsify to render its cultivation an object where that is 
grown. 

Si?iapis — MusTA RD. 

There are two species of sinapis cultivated, the Albdf 
usually employed in salads, and the Nigra of which the 
seed furnishes the well known condiment. 

The soil for mustard should be a good moist loam, but 
for a winter crop it may be more dry. White mustard 
may be sown any time of the year for a salad in the same 
manner as cress, which see. It must be used when the 
seed-leaf is just expanded, for if it gets into the rough 
leaf it is fit for nothing but greens. For use, cut them 
off with a sharp knife. They should be used soon after 



260 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH 

gathering or tlieir good qualities will be much impaired. 
The black mustard may be sown from September to 
March. It will stand any frost and may be gathered for 
greens at any time during the winter. Sow in drills thinly, 
eighteen inches apart, hoe the plants as soon as they get 
their fourth leaf, thin to three inches, and finally to ten 
in the drill. Keep the ground clean and mellow by the 
use of the hoc during the season. When the pods change 
color, gather, and thresh when perfectly dry. Seed of the 
white variety may be raised in the same manner, or a few 
plants may be left uncut in the salad bed for this purpose. 
Use. — The tender leaves of both species are used for 
salads and should be more cultivated for this purpose. 
They are also much cultivated for winter greens, but the 
German greens are much superior in quality, and being 
quite as hardy and easily cultivated should take their 
place. The seeds of the white variety are ground, form- 
ing the condiment known as the Durham or London table 
mustard, but the flour of the black mustard is that from 
Avhich our American table mustard is, or ought to be, made. 
The seeds may be ground in a common spice mill or 
crushed by a roller on a table. In this country the flour 
is usually sifted after grinding, but the French do not 
separate the husk, and thus make a brownish flour, more 
powerful and palatable than the other. The mustard of 
commerce is much adulterated, being often a compound 
of wheat flour and red pepper colored with turmeric. The 
seeds used whole are an excellent seasoning to various 
kinds of pickles. Mustard is a very agreeable condiment, 
assisting digestion and promoting appetite. It is also 
much used in medicine both by the faculty and in domes- 
tic practice. It is an acrid stimulant, and in large quan- 
tities acts as an emetic. The proper dose for the latter is 
from a tea to a tablespoonful in a glass of water. Small 



WATERCRESS — SKIRRET. 261 

doses of mustard seed swallowed whole in water are often 
useful in dyspepsia. Mustard seed is also a local excitant 
applied to the skin in a cataplasm, made of the ground 
meal with vinegar or lukewarm water; if mixed with 
boiling water the acrid principle will not be developed. 

Sisymhrium Nasturtium — Water-cress. 

This is a perennial English plant, growing in running 
streams. There is but one variety in use. I give its cul- 
ture that it may be tried in some of our clear up-country 
streams. 

The Water-cress likes a clear, cool, running stream, 
fresh issuing from a spring, the nearer its source the 
better, with the water about an inch and a half deep, with 
a sandy or gravelly bottom. They must of course at first 
be raised from seed which can be sprinkled at the source 
of some gravelly stream. If once established they will 
soon propagate from self-sown seed. If the stems get 
choked with mud and weeds, they must be taken up and 
the beds cleared and replanted. The shoots ought always 
to be ciit, as breaking injures the plants. 

Use. — Water-cresses are generally liked for their warm 
pungent taste, and are used alone or in mixed salads. 
They are an excellent antiscorbutic and purifier of the 
blood and a great favorite wherever known. 

Stum Sis arum — Skirret. 

Skirret is a perennial umbelliferous plant from China, 
and known in Europe since 1548. It grows a foot high 
with pinnate lower leaves. The root is composed of 
several fleshy tubers, the size of the little finger, joined at 
the crown. 

Culture. — Skirret likes a light, rich, rather moist soil, 
with the manure applied at the bottom. It will not do 



262 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

well m very dry ground in this climate. It is propagated 
by seeds or by off-sets of established roots. Seedlings 
produce the best roots. Sow any time in march, in drills 
an inch deep and ten inches apart. Sprinkle a few radish 
seed in the drill as directed for carrots. When the plants 
are an inch or two high, thin to six or eight inches apart. 
Cultivate like salsify and keep clear from weeds. They 
will be fit for use in August but can remain in the ground, 
to use as wanted, all winter. Slips of the old roots may 
be set out nine inches apart and cultivated in the same 
manner. Leave some of the plants in the ground and 
they will throw up seed-stalks and ripen seed during the 
summer following. 

Use. — The tubers are boiled and are very sweet, some- 
what like the parsnip, and are thought more palatable. 
They are boiled and served up with butter, or cold with 
vinegar and oil, and are also cooked like salsify in batter. 
It was formerly esteemed as " the sweetest, whitest, and 
most pleasant of roots.*' 

Solanum Lycopersicum — Tom a to. 

The Tomato is a tender annual, a native of South Amer- 
ica, and introduced into England in 1596. It belongs 
to the same genus with the potato and egg-plant. It is 
scarcely twenty years since its culture was commenced in 
this country. " In 1828-9" says Buist, " it was almost 
detested ; in ten years more, every variety of pill and pana- 
cea was " extract of tomato." It was long cultivated in 
the flower garden for its beautiful red and yellow fruit, 
which was not used for food, but by many considered 
poisonous. It is now one of the most popular vegetables 
in cultivation, and springs up self-sown in all our gardens. 
There are many varieties. 

The Large Red which is cultivated all over the Union, is 



ANALYSIS OF TOMATO. 



263 



one of tlie best. It is patty-pan shaped, and extra large 
specimens are sometimes six inches in diameter, or as 
large as a common bush-squash. One of the best flavored 
and very desirable. 

Large Sinooth Red is a new variety, equally well fla- 
vored and a favorite in the kitchen, as it grows regular and 
free from knobs. 

Cherry is the most common and productive with us, 
and is excellent for pickling. It is named from its size 
and shape. 

Pear- Shaped is of a pink color, Arm flesh and few seeds. 
Much used for pickling, and excellent for the table. 

Large Yellow is early, and of a rather diflerent flavor. 
It is a beautiful and excellent sort for preserves. 

Gallagher's Mammoth is the best for home use, a variety 
of the large red, having few seeds and very superior in 
size and flavor, especially for eating uncooked with pepper, 
salt, and vinegar. 

The analysis of Large Red tomato, has been made by 
J. H. Salisbury. One thousand pounds of the undried 
fruit will produce 3-^^ pounds of ash constituted as 
follows : — 



Carbonic Acid, .... 


.3817 


Silicic Acid, . • . 


.0606 


Sulphuric Acid, 


.0611 


Phosphoric Acid and Peroxide of Iron, 


.8401 


Lime, 


.0026 


Magnesia, 


.0549 


Potash, 


.7191 


Soda, 


.8899 


Sodium, 


.0952 


Chlorine, 


.1472 


Organic Acids, . . 


.1576 




3.4100 lbs 



264 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Soda and the phosphates are the most abundant eleij^ents, 
and may be supplied by common salt and bone-dust if 
wanting in the soil, but any soil almost will produce 
tomatoes. 

Culture. — The tomato likes a light loamy soil, moder- 
ately rich. Common salt may be applied as a manure in 
small quantities. If the soil is too rich, they will run to 
vines, and the fruit ripens late. The culture of the tomato is 
very easy in this climate, as abundance of seed will sow 
itself if it is once introduced into the garden. But the 
finest fruits are not gathered from volunteer plants, but 
produced from the seeds of the best specimens maturing 
early, and this vegetable is so desirable that it should be 
produced as early as possible. A few plants should be 
started in the house in boxes, or in a cold bed under glass 
in the latter part of February, or early in March, giving 
them air, except when there is danger of frost. They can 
be sown thinly in rows eight inches apart, and transplanted 
into the open ground as soon as frosts are over. Plants should 
be kept in reserve, in case of a late frost. The seed may be 
sown in the open ground from the middle of March to the first 
of May ; sow in drills eight or ten inches apart, and when 
they come up, thin them to three inches. Protect them 
from frost, as they are exceedingly tender. They are the 
easiest things in the world to transplant, and can be safely 
removed from the time they are an inch high until the 
blossoms appear. It is best however to take them up care- 
fully with a trowel, that their growth may not be checked. 
Plant them three feet apart each way, or more in very 
rich ground. When the young plants come into blossom, 
support them by sticks as you would peas. The fruit is 
thus earlier and better flavored ; mulching with leaves or 
straw is beneficial. Plants for early use should be set out 
in a warm exposure, and as soon as the lower fruit is half 



EGG PLANT, OR GUINEA SQUASH. 265 

grown, cut off the upper part of the plant above the larger 
fruit, that its growth may be stopped, and the fruit below 
will be larger, and several days earlier. Ninety per cent, 
of the fruit grows within eighteen inches of the ground, 
but a large portion of the vines grow above that height. 
Tomatoes like the soil about them well hoed, and free 
from weeds. Plants grown in the open air, are the more 
abundant in bearing, than those forwarded under glass. In 
well-trenched ground, they will continue bearing until frost. 

To Save Seed. — Select the largest early fruit, mash with 
the hand, and wash the seed from the pulp ; spread out 
upon plates and dry in the shade; when dry, put them in 
paper bags. 

Use. — Few vegetables are prepared in as many different 
forms as the tomato. It is pickled when gi-een, and pre- 
served when ripe, it is eaten raw or cooked, it enters into 
soups and sauces, and is prepared in catsups, marmalades, 
and omelets. The French, and the Italians, near Eome 
and Naples, raised them by the acre, long before used by 
other nations, and it is said, prepared them in an almost in- 
finite variety of ways. There are very few preparations into 
which it enters, which are not improved by the addition. 

Solanum Melongena — Egg-Plant, or Guinea Squash. 
The Q.^^ plant is a tender annual, a native of Africa, 
whence its name Guinea Squash. It was introduced into 
England in 1597. The varieties of purple egg-plant are 
the only ones used in cooking, the white variety being 
raised for ornament. Egg-plant derives its name from the 
white variety, which when small bears a close resemblance 
to an egg. The egg-plant when first introduced, was not 
regarded with much favor for culinary purposes, but is now 
rapidly working its way upwards in general esteem. All 
the egg-plants grow finely in this climate. 
12 



266 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Large Pricldy- Stemmed Pinyle is the largest variety, 
often growing to a diameter of eight inches, shape slightly 
oval, and dark purple color. 

Long Purple is perhaps the best kind for family use, as 
it is ten days earlier than the other varieties, and though 
not growing so large, is very prolific in fruit. 

The fruit of the purple egg-plant has been analyzed by 
J. H. Salisbury. One thousand pounds of the undried 
fruit will yield 6 ,-*-o pounds of ash, constituted as follows : — 

Carbonic Acid, .2889 

Silicic Acid, 1038 

Sulphuric Acid, .... .2898 

Phosphoric Acid and Peroxide of Iron, 1.7595 

Lime, .0046 

'Magnesia, 0828 

Potash, 1.2496 

Soda, 1.9525 

Sodium, ...... .0686 

Chlorine, . . . . . . .1057 

Organic Acids, .... .1341 

6.0399 

Over two-thirds of the fruit is made up of potash, soda, 
and phosphates. Salt, ashes and bone-dust, or better, super- 
phosphate of lime, may be freely applied to the soil for this 
crop. 

Cidture. — Egg-plants require a light, loamy, rich soil to 
bring their fruit early to perfection. They like the soil 
manured with half decayed leaves, well dug in. To have 
them early, sow them in a hot-bed, or in a cold frame 
under glass, the latter part of February, or early in March. 
The rows may be six or eight inches apart, made shallow 
and the earth pressed upon the seed. Keep the sash care- 
fully closed until the plants are up, and then give air in 
warm days. Egg-plants succeed best with a small frame to 



EGG PLANT, OK GUINEA SQUASH. 267 

themselves, as they like a higher heat than is desirable 
for other plants; if this should be a small hot-bed, it suits 
them all the better. When the plants are two inches high, 
transplant into another frame under glass and put the 
plants tAvo inches apart, and they Avill grow stout and 
more hardy for out-door planting. It is a good plan to prick 
them out in small pots. They can thus be planted out 
with the ball of earth entire. Do not. put them out until 
settled warm weather, for if the plants get chilled while 
young, their growth is so checked that they never fully 
recover. 

Plants can also be raised in the open ground, but must 
not be sown until early in April, for these one transplant- 
ing will be sufficient. Prepare the final bed for egg-plants 
by making trenches three feet apart, burying in them old 
cabbage stumps, corn stalks and other vegetable refuse, and 
covering them with soil twelve inches deep, in which plant 
out the egg-plants two feet apart in the row. Water 
abundantly until established. Keep the ground well hoed 
and free from weeds, and earth up the plants a little from 
time to time. Twelve to twenty plants will be enough. 

For Seed. — Allow one of the largest fruits from a prolific 
plant to ripen seed. It will keep three or four years. 

Use. — Egg-plant is used by the French in various ways 
in soups and stews, but generally cut in thin slices, and fried 
in batter. They are not commonly liked at first, but after 
a few trials become very agreeable to most tastes, and are 
esteemed a delicacy. They are fit for use when some two 
or three inches in diameter, and continue until the seeds 
begin to change color. They are not unwholesome, but 
cannot be very nourishing, as they contain a very large 
proportion of water. 

To Fry. — Cut the egg-plant in slices a quarter of an 
tnch thick. To remove the acrid taste, pile the slices on 



268 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

a plate, with alternate layers of salt; raise one side of the 
plate, that the juice may run off. In half an hour wash them 
well in fresh water, and fry them quite brown in batter. 

Solanum Tuberosum — Potato. 

The Irish potato is a perennial plant, cultivated for its 
tuberous roots. It is reported to have been brought into 
England from Virginia, by Raleigh in 1854, but as he never 
visited Virginia, he probably obtained it from some other 
portion of this continent. Though called the Irish potato 
it is really a native of the mountain parts of South Amer- 
ica, whence roots have recently been obtained differing 
very little from the cultivated varieties. Notwithstanding 
its excellence and complete adaptation to the English cli- 
mate, it appears to have come slowly into use. Ealeigh 
planted it on his Irish estate near Cork, but it is only 
within about a hundred years that its culture has been 
general even in Ireland. In 1780, very few individuals 
in this country raised as large a crop as five bushels. Of 
the numerous varieties at this time, the best perhaps for 
garden culture are : — 

Fox Seedlmg. — A medium sized, round, white potato, of 
fine flavor when it first matures, but does not keep for win- 
ter. Liable to the rot. 

Mercer. — Long, kidney shaped, flattish, full of eyes, and 
often knobbed, spotted with pink at the small end. It is 
early and productive, but liable to the rot. 

Mammoth Nutmeg. — Is a new variety, highly recom- 
mended by Mapes as productive, and not liable to decay. 
It produces seed, showing that it still possesses more con- 
stitutional vigor than most other varieties. 

Many other varieties have great celebrity in different 
sections of the country, among which are Early Kidneys, 
Pink Eyes, Foxite, Blue Jackets, &c. But the fact is, all 



ANALYSIS OF POTATO. 269 

are constitutionally liable to tlie rot. Besides for tliis cli- 
mate we need an Irish potato that will continue in growth 
nearly all the season, as they ripen too early with us to be 
easily kept in their dry mealy state. Any one who would 
obtain the potato balls from the wild plant in its native' 
habitation, and originate therefrom new varieties adapted 
to the climate of this section of the Union, would deserve 
the thanks of the elitire South. We buy northern tubers 
w^iich are infested with disease, and after our crop is ma- 
tured, frequently one-half decays. The potato disease is 
a very mysterious malady, and the only ground of hope 
of ever seeing it eradicated or even checked is by resorting 
to the wild plant, and raising from it a new and vigorous 
stock. This may not be successful, but it is really worthy 
of trial, and if not brought about by private enterprise, 
should be an object of public attention.* 

The analysis of the ash of Axbridge kidney potatoes, 
by Herapath, is given beloAv : — 

Carbonic Acid, . . . . 21.40 
Sulphuric Acid, .... 3.24 
Phosphoric Acid, . . . 3.77 
Potassa, ..... 55.61 
Soda, ..... trace 
Chloride of Sodium, . . . trace 
Carbonate of Lime, . . . 3.02 
" " Magnesia, . . .1.26 
Sulphate of Lime, ... .12 
Phosphate of Lime, . . . 3.83 
" Magnesia, . . 7.55 
Basic Phosphate of Sesquioxide of Iron, .06 
Silica, 12 



99.98 



*■' This has been undertaken by Mr. C. E. Goodrich, of Utica, New 
York, by whom tubers and seeds raised directly from the wild plant, 
and in some degree free from the tendency to disease, are ofifered for 
sale. 



270 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Potasli and plios2)hate of magnesia are the most import- 
ant inorganic elements of tlie plant. Wood ashes will 
furnish most of the constituents required from the soil. 

Culture. — The Irish potato likes a cool moist climate, 
and a cool moist soil like that of Ireland. The soil should 
be well enriched with vegetable and not with animal 
manure. The best potatoes in this country are grown in 
the cool and hilly sections of the north, and the best there 
are grown by simply turning nicely over a meadow sward ; 
upon this the rows are laid off shallow, and the clover 
sods are often so tough with matted roots when planting 
(having been newly turned over), that earth is with diffi- 
culty obtained to cover the potatoes. Soon decomposition 
commences, a gentle heat is given out, and by the time 
the potatoes are ready for the first working they can be 
ploughed with ease. At the second working, when the 
plants are laid by, the soil is mellow as an ash heap, 
the young plant the mean while being supplied with moist- 
ure, and the very food required to perfect its tubers, and 
render them farinaceous and nutritive. At the south, in 
our gardens we cannot obtain such a soil, but we can very 
much improve the yield, and especially the quality of our 
Irish potatoes by imitating it as near as possible. We can 
dig into the soil vegetable matter to decompose, such as 
leaves, garden refuse of all kinds, and pine straw. Even 
tan bark is not a bad application to the potato crop, and 
the potato and strawberry are the only plants to which I 
would apply it. I applied it to a small plat at the rate of 
fifty two-horse loads to the acre, with fjle^ity of leached 
ashes. The potato crop was excellent both in quantity 
and quality, and I think the tan materially promoted its 
growth. The soil has not a trace of undecomposed tan- 
bark in it ; but from a poor red clay is now a light dark 
garden mould. A great reason for applying vegetable 



CULTURE OF POTATO. 271 

manure to this plant is the superior quality of the tubers 
produced. Liebig first remarked that ammoniacal manures 
injure the quality of the potato, though they increase the 
size and quantity. If manured with strong animal manure 
the tubers are moist and waxy, while if grown upon a soil 
manured with ashes, lime, and an abundant supply of car- 
bonaceous manures, such as decaying vegetable matter, 
the produce is far more starchy and nutritive. This is 
reasonable, for starch and the woody fibre of decompos- 
ing vegetable matter are very similar in chemical composi- 
tion. Apply strong dung, if you like waxy potatoes. I 
believe some really prefer them. Indeed an excellent old 
lady with whom I boarded was one. We had been using 
for some weeks from her garden some of the most waxy 
and indifferent potatoes I ever tasted, the product of a soil 
altogether too rich in ammoniacal matter for this plant. 
One day at the dinner table, a dish of dry white farina- 
ceous tubers made their appearance, whose jackets bursting 
with mealiness would have made an Irishman's eyes 
water. It was a change, and we Avere quietly enjoying it, 
when our good hostess broke the silence with the remark : 
*' These potatoes are not so good to-day as we have been 
having from our own garden ; somehow they don't seem to 
be as juicy /" — the last characteristic to be thought of in 
a good potato. 

Peabody's mode of raising Irish potatoes in this climate, 
cannot be improved. " As soon after Christmas as possi- 
ble, plow or spade up the piece of ground designed for 
the potato patch, and lay it off in furrows two feet wide, 
and eight or ten inches deep ; now fill the furrow with 
decomposed straw or leaves (wheat or pine straw will an- 
swer j, cut the potatoes once in. two, and place them six 
inches apart cut side downwards upon the straw ; now 



272 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

level the top of the ridge, covering seed, straw and all 
with earth ; then cart on straw scattering it evenly 
eighteen inches deep; two feet will be better. The winter 
rains will beat down the straw compactly ; decomposition 
commencing in the straw in the furrow, and in that next 
the ground, the potato sprouts force their way up 
through the straw, and should an untimely frost nip the 
tops, the tubers are not affected by it as when in the 
groimd, the tops will push up through the straw, and 
eventually cover the whole patch with their dark gi'een 
foliage. The evenness of temperature with the moisture 
of the decomposing straw, will keep the potatoes always 
mealy. In the dryest season the yield will be greater 
than Avhen planted in the ordinary way, and Avhen once 
planted, it is an end of culture until they are taken out 
for the table. The same piece of ground, will improve in 
productiveness for years as the straw decomposes. Many 
have failed in this mode of culture from the fact that they 
have not applied half straw enough." 

But good as the above mode undoubtedly is, many of 
us cannot get the straw required for this manner of culture, 
while Ave are not disposed to do without Irish potatoes. All 
we can do is to incorporate with the soil abundance of vegeta- 
] le matter of any kind we can get, and plant the early crop in 
January, and the main crop the last of February, laying off 
the ground in deep furrows or trenches two and a quarter 
feet apart ; in these depositing a good sprinkling of lime, char- 
coal, leached ashes, and bone-dust, or such of these as can 
be obtained. On this the cut potatoes are to be laid at 
eight inches apart, as above. If on each set a teaspoonful 
of gypsum or plaster of Paris be sprinkled, the yield will 
be very much increased. The seed is better, if cut a few 
days before planting and spread out to dry. Large pota 



CULTURE OF POTATO. 273 

toes will make three or four sets. Fill up the furrow with 
earth, and if this be mixed with tan-bark, the potatoes will 
like it all the better. 

When the young vines appear, if there is danger of frost, 
they can be protected by covering them with earth. This 
should not be done unless needed, and the earth should be 
carefully drawn back after the danger is over. It is better 
to plant the main crop sufficiently late to avoid all danger 
of frost. As soon as the shoots appear, give the young 
plants frequent and deep hoeings, keeping the soil deep 
and mellow, and drawing a little earth up to the stem in a 
broad, flat hill. Cease working them when the blossom- 
buds appear. When the tops decay, and the plants are 
ripe, dig them, and spread in a cool, dry place. If they 
sprout, the shoots should be rubbed off, as they injure the 
flavor of the potato. A change of seed once in three or 
four years is an advantage, but there is no use in buying 
fresh seed every year. It is believed that potatoes culti- 
vated and manured as directed above are much less sub- 
ject to the potato-rot, the ravages of which have recently 
almost depopulated Ireland. Schleiden attributes the rot 
to the long continued use of nitrogenous manures. Still 
the great hope of a permanent escape from this disease is 
to go back for our seed once more to the healthy wild 
stock. To keep them eatable, rub off the sprouts as fast 
as they appear. If allowed to grow they become waxy. 

Use. — The tubers of the Irish potato, consisting chiefly 
of starch, and having no peculiarity of taste, approach 
nearer in their nature to the flour of grain than any other 
root. Hence it is almost universally liked, and can be 
continually used by the same individual, without becom- 
ing unpalatable. Potatoes are boiled, baked, roasted, or 
fried. When long kept, the best ones are selected, boiled, 
12* 



274: GARDENING FOR TPIK SOUTH. 

and mashed, before going to the table. Starch can be 
manufactured from potatoes ; also ardent spirits. 

To Boil. — A very common way, described by Peabody, 
is to " put them into cold water, boil them a couple of 
hours or so, peel them, and grease them over with rancid 
butter, and place them cold upon the table. This is the 
acme of the gastronomic art with some." A very good 
way is the following : — ^Wash the potatoes, and cut off the 
ends ; put them into boiling Avater, and boil briskly from 
twenty minutes to half an hour ; drain off the water, and 
they are ready for the table. The skins may be removed 
before bringing to the table; but this is not so good a plan. 
If the potatoes remain, after cooking, without being brought 
to the table, they should be kept warm and dry in the pot, 
uncovered, near the fire 



Sjnnacea Oleracea — Spinach. 

Spinach is a hardy annual, native of Spain and Persia ; 
cultivated in English gardens since 1568, and probably 
long before. Some refer its origin to Western Asia. The 
leaves are large, stems hollow, and the male and female 
flowers produced on different plants. Its name, sjpinacea, 
is derived from the Latin, spina, a thorn, on account of the 
prickl}^ seed of one variety. There are two sorts in gen- 
eral cultivation, viz. : — 

The Prickly is much raised in cold climates; being 
hardier, and more able to endure the severity of the win- 
ter. It has triangular leaves, and is much inferior to the 

Round-Leaved. — Leaves more round, and still more full 
and fleshy; will stand our Avinters without protection, 
and is the better variety for this climate. 

Flanders spinach has prickly seeds, and is a good 
variety, though little known here. 



ANALYSIS OF SPINACH. 275 

Spinacli has been analyzed by Richardson, with the 
following result : — 

Potassa, 9.69 

Soda, 34.96 

Lime, .... . 13.11 

Magnesia, .... 5.29 

Sulphuric Acid, .... 9.30 
Silicic Acid, .... 3.16 

Phosphoric Acid, .... 7.89 
Phosphate of Iron, . . . 8.67 

Chloride of Sodium, . . . 7.93 



100.00 

The lime and salt mixture with superphosphate of lime 
will supply most of the inorganic elements required by 
spinach. 

Culture. — For the winter crop, a light dry, but fertile 
soil is preferable ; while for spring sowings, to have them 
long in use, a rich moist loam is desirable. Give them 
an open situation. The earth should be well pulverized 
before sowing, as fine tilth greatly promotes vigorous 
growth. Spinach is propagated from seed so easily, and 
is so valuable for winter greens, that no garden should 
be without it. The first crop should be sown early in 
October, in drills an inch deep, and a foot apart, scat- 
tering the seed thinly. Sow the seed, if possible, in 
showery weather, or if dry, water it, for if moisture be 
wanting during the early stages of vegetation, not half the 
seed will come up. Thin them by degrees, separating 
them at first only an inch or two as the plants grovv' fit for 
use. Thinning should commence when they attain four 
leaves an inch or so in breadth. The plants must finally 
stand for the prickly spinach, five inches, and the round 
leaf, eight inches in the drill. Keep the rows frequently 
hoed and free from weeds. Hoe in dry weather. Spinach 



276 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

kept clean and thinned to the proper distance, is not so 
liable to die out in winter. Frequent hoeing greatly pro- 
motes health and growth. This soAving will he fit to 
gather in November, and last until spring. Another sow- 
ing should be made in January and February, to keep up 
a succession, until other vegetables come on abundantly. 
Regular gathering greatly promotes the health of the 
plants. The outer leaves only should be used, leaving the 
centre uninjured to supply successive crops. At the end 
of the winter, the soil between the rows of the winter 
standing crop should be gently stirred to assist their pro- 
duction in early spring. For spinach and all other plants 
cultivated for tlidr leaves, the soil cannot be too rich. 

For Seed. — Some of the latest plants of the standing 
crop should be allowed to run up to seed ; let these plants 
be eight or ten inches apart. Spinach is dioecious, and the 
plants left that do not bear seed must not be pulled up, as 
they are needed to fertilize the others until the seed is set. 
When ripe, pull the plants, dry thoroughly on a cloth, 
and beat out and store the seed in paper bags. Spinach 
seed Avill keep three years. 

Use. — Spinach and German Greens are the best plants 
to raise for a supply of winter and early spring greens. 
No frost will hurt them, and one who has tried them will 
hardly be induced to fall back upon mustard and turnip 
tops. It is really one of the most valuable plants in the 
garden. Spinach eaten freely is laxative and cooling; it is 
not very nutritive, but very wholesome. It is so innocent 
that it is permitted to be eaten in diseases where most 
vegetables are proscribed. The leaves are very tender 
and succulent, and of a most beautiful green when boiled. 
The juice is often used for coloring various culinary pre- 
parations. 

To Boil. — Cut off all the roots, wash out all insects and 



NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. 277 

grit, and put in boiling water -with a teaspoonful of salt ; 
boil ten or fifteen minutes. When done, drain through a 
colander, press out the moisture, and serve with butter 
and a little salt. 

Tetragonia Expansa — New Zealand Spinach. 
An annual plant brought by Sir Joseph Banks, from 
New Zealand, in 1772, with thick, succulent, pale green 
procumbent leaves, deltoid in shape, and with small green 
inconspicuous flowers. It grows four or five feet high. 
The common Spinach fails entirely in summer, but this 
variety, if well watered, grows freely and produces 
leaves of the greatest succulency in hot weather. White 
Beet or Swiss Chard, hoAvever, is a vegetable more easily 
cultivated and preferable in every way for general culti- 
vation in our climate. 

Culture. — ^New Zealand Spinach may be sowed early in 
April. The best soil is a deep, moist loam, deeply dug 
and enriched by a liberal supply of good manure. Make 
the drills three feet apart, and scatter the seed about six 
inches apart in the drill, and cover them an inch deep. 
Thin out the plants, when well established, to twenty 
inches apart. Those taken up after filling any vacancies in 
the drill may be reset in another bed. Take them up with 
the trowel and balls of earth, so as not to check their growth. 
Water until the plants are established, and liberally in dry 
weather all summer. Keep the ground thoroughly tilled 
and free from weeds, that the plants may make a luxuri- 
ant growth. In five or six weeks the young leaves may 
begin to be picked off. Preserve the leading shoot, and the 
branches will continue long in bearing, as in autumn they 
survive a pretty heavy frost. Twenty plants are enough. 

Seed may be gathered as it ripens, dried carefully in 
the shade, and put up in paper bags. 



278 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

ZTse. — It is prepared for tlie table like common spinach. 
It lias somewhat the spinach flavor ; but there is a softness 
and mildness about it, which make it preferred by many. 
The seeds in a green state, make an excellent pickle. 

Thymus Vulgaris — Thyme. 

Common, or garden thyme, is a low, evergreen undershrub, 
a native of Spain, Italy, and Greece, cultivated in English 
gardens since 1548, and probably earlier. Its name. Thy- 
mus, comes from the Greek word for courage ; as it was 
thought to renew the strength and spirits. It has a pleas- 
ant aromatic smell, and a warm pungent taste. 

Lemon Thyme. ( Tliymus CitriodorusJ is also a low trailing 
evergreen shrub, seldom rising above four or six inches 
high. It has a strong smell of lemons, which ^ives it its 
common name. 

Culture. — Thyme is raised by seed, cuttings and divid- 
ing the roots. A poor, light, dry soil, is suitable. The 
root slips may be set out in rows six inches apart each 
way. The seeds are very small, and should be sown in 
moist weather, and the soil for their reception made very 
fine. Sow the last of February or early in March, and 
rake the seed in lightly with the back of the rake. Press 
the surface gently with a board or the back of a spade. 
Make the drills six inches apart and very shallow. Water 
lightly in hot dry weather, both before and after the 
plants are up. Let them remain in the drills, or trans- 
plant when two or three inches high. Thin the plants to 
six inches apart, keep free from weeds while the plants 
are small. 

Thyme is often used as an edging. A very small plat is 
enough for any family. 

For Seed. — It bears seed abundantly, if permitted. The 



SALSIFY OR VEGETABLE OYSTER. 279 

spikes should be gatliered as it ripens, before it is washed 
out by the rain. Dry upon a cloth in the shade. 

Use. — The young leaves and tops are used in soups, 
stuffings and sauces. They can be dried and preserved 
like other herbs; but in this climate it is unnecessary, as 
it is evergreen. Thyme tea is a cure for the headache, 
and an excellent tonic. The essential oil contains 
camphor. 

Tragojpogon PorrifoUus — Salsify or Vegetable 
Oyster. 

Salsify is a hardy, tap-rooted biennial, a native of Eng- 
land and various other parts of Europe, with long taper- 
ing root of a fleshy white substance, the herbage smooth 
glaucous, and the flower-stem three or four feet high, the 
flower of a dull purple color and syngenesious. 

Salsify likes a light, mellow soil, dug very deeply, as 
for carrots and other tap-rooted plants. Sow in Febru- 
ary or March (earlier if you choose), in drills an inch deep, 
and a foot apart. Sow rather thickly. An ounce of seed 
will sow a square rod. Scarlet radish may also be sown 
thinly in the same drills. When an inch high, thin the 
plants, and continue by degrees until the plants are six 
inches apart. If the soil is deep and moist, they will 
grow all summer and not run up to seed. Watering in 
dry weather, especially with guano water, will greatly 
invigorate the plants. Cultivate the soil, and keep it free 
from weeds, as you would for beets and carrots. The 
roots will be fit for use in August, and may remain in the 
ground all winter, to be pulled as wanted. 

For Seed. — Leave, or transplant some of the best plants 
in spring, which will produce seed abundantly. Gather 
and dry in the heads, where they may be kept until 
wanted. 



280 GAKDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Use. — The stalks of old plants are sometimes cut in the 
spring, as a substitute for asparagus. The roots are boiled 
or stewed like carrots, and have a mild, sweet flavor, be- 
ing wholesome, palatable and tolerably nutritive. They 
are said to be excellent for consumptive patients; but are 
mostly cooked to imitate oysters, to which the flavor has 
some resemblance. 

To Cook. — Scrape the roots lightly and soak in water 
one hour. Boil until tender. Take out, drain, and make a 
batter of milk and eggs beaten up with a little flour; grate 
the roots fine, add an q^^ well beaten and press them int^ 
small, flat balls the size of oysters, dip them in tlie batter 
and roll in grated cracker or crumbs of bread, and fry in 
hot lard until of a light brown color, and they are ready 
for the table. 

Tropaolum Majus — Nasturtium, or Indian Cress. 

The nasturtium is here a hardy annual, a native of Peru, 
where it is a true perennial. It was introduced into 
England in 1681. The stalks are long and trailing, leaves 
have their petioles fixed at the centre. Flowers are hel- 
met-shaped, of a rich, brilliant orange, and continue, from 
their first appearance, all summer ; and if not so common, 
would be thought very beautiful. Iropa'olum Minor, the 
Indian cress, is less productive. 

Culture. — Nasturtiums flourish in a moist soil, but do 
best in a good, fresh loam. If the soil is too rich, the 
plants are luxuriant, but do not bear so abundantly, and 
the berries are of inferior flavor. Give them an open sit- 
uation. Sow the seed early in March, three or four inches 
apart, in drills an inch deep, covering the seed three- 
fourths of an inch. The seed must be of the preceding 
year's growth. They may be sown by the side of a fence 
or trellis. If more than one row is sown, they should be at 



ENGLISH BROAD BEAN. 281 

least four feet apart. Thin the plants, when they are Avell 
up, to a foot in the drill. Hoe the ground well, and keep 
down the weeds. If sown in the open ground, support 
them as you would peas with lattice or brush. Give the 
plants a little assistance in fastening themselves to the 
trellis. Water in dry weather. Gather the fruit when 
full grown, while still fresh and green. 

For Seed. — Let some of the berries mature, gather them 
as they ripen, spread them to dry and harden, and store in 
paper bags. 

Use. — The flowers and young leaves are used in salads, 
and have a warm taste like water cress. The flowers are 
used with those of borage in garnishing dishes. The ber- 
ries, gathered green and pickled, form an excellent substi- 
tute for capers. 

Vida Faha — English Broad Bean. 

The English Broad Bean is an annual, from two to four 
feet high, with white, fragrant papilionaceous flowers, 
with a black spot in the middle of the wings ; seed pods 
thick, long, woolly within, enclosing large, ovate, flat 
seeds, for the sake of which it is much cultivated in Eu- 
rope. It is a native of Egypt, and has been cultivated 
from time immemorial. 

Mazagan is sweet and agreeable in flavor, and pro- 
duces well if planted early. Far the most productive 
variety with me. 

Long Fed. — Stalks rise about three feet high, bears 
well ; the pods are long, narrow, and well filled with 
seeds. 

Culture — This is not a very important crop in this cli- 
mate, as the other beans are far better and more easily cul- 
tivated. To give variety to early garden products, a few 
may be planted in drills eighteen inches apart, and two 



282 garde:ning for the south. 

inches m the row, in October, November, or December. 
They like a dry soil, moderately rich, and a sheltered sit- 
uation, to promote their growth during the winter. The 
frost will not injure them. When two inches high, hoe 
between and draw the earth about the stems of the plants. 
Continue this during their growth. When the plants come 
into bloom, take off two or three inches of the tops of the 
stems, which will increase the crop and hasten its maturity. 
The crop should be gathered before they are fall grown, 
while they are still tender and delicate. 

To Save Seed. — Allow a portion of the crop to remain 
until ripe. Thresh for use. 

Use. — The English use these beans while young and 
tender, as we do green peas. They must be cooked very 
young, and in the same manner ; or may be boiled with 
bacon. 

Tea Mays — Indian Corn. 

Indian Corn is a native plant, found distributed in all 
the milder climates of America at its discovery. It is of 
more universal culture than any other plant on this conti- 
nent, and can be made to produce more food per acre than 
any other grain. 

The best garden varieties are the 

Extra Early — with short ears, small cob, and large 
grains, which are of excellent flavor. It can be grown fit 
for the table in six weeks from the time of planting. 

Eight-rowed Sugar. — Ears of larger size, grow two or 
more on a stalk, remain in a milky state, and fit for the 
table a long time ; grains, when dry, are small and shriv- 
elled ; of very sweet and excellent flavor when boiled. 

Old Colony Sweet. — A new variety, of the highest repu- 
tation, I have not yet cultivated. 

StowelVs Evergreen Sweet Corn. — A twelve-rowed variety, 



ANALYSIS OF INDIAN CORN. 



283 



"v^itli ears larger than the Eight-rowed. The grains resemble 
the Sugar Corn, but are thinner when dry. It produces well, 
and is quite as good. It is also said, if the husks are 
allowed to remain on the ears, secured by a string at the 
smaller end, and kept in a cool, dry place, the grains will 
continue milky, and ht for nse for several months after 
being picked. It is doubtful Avhether they could be thus 
kept in our climate; but, at all events, it is a very excel- 
lent table corn, and keeps green longer than any other 
variety. 

The three latter varieties are more injured by the corn- 
worm, as our planters call the insect that eats into the end 
of the ear, than the common corn of the country. The 
insect chooses the high-flavored varieties in preference. 
He should be crushed wherever found. 

Spengel found in 100.000 parts of maize grain, 1312 
parts of inorganic matter, and in 100.000 parts of maize 
stalk, 3985 parts of inorganic matter, consisting of 



189 

4 

652 

236 

6 

4 

20 

2708 

106 

54 

6 





GRAI.V. 


Potash, .... 


200 


Soda, 


250 


Lime, .... 


35 


Magnesia. 


128 


Alumina, 


16 


Oxide of Iron, . 


trace 


Oxide of Manganese, . 


— 


Silica, 


434 


Sulphuric acid, . 


17 


Phosphoric acid, 


224 


Chlorine, 


8 



1312 



3985 



Maize likes a soil abounding in soluble silica. Gypsum 
and ashes, experience has proved, the best special manures. 
Sweet corn has much less starch than the other varieties ; 



284 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

but much more sugar and extract. It has also a greater 
portion of dextrine and gum. 

Culture. — In the Northern States, a dry soil and a hot 
season are required to produce large crops of corn. Here 
we raise far better crops in moist seasons, and on moist 
bottom lands. Hich, deep loam affords the plant plenty 
of moisture and nourishment, which the corn likes. The 
garden corn will bear very thick planting. Get your seed 
from the north at least every two years, if you would 
have early crops, as the earliest sorts gradually grow later 
here. Plant as soon as the season gets mild, about the 
first of March in this climate, or when the peach is well in 
bloom. 

Let the ground be deeply ploughed or spaded ; then lay 
off in hills three feet apart each way. If the ground is 
not rich, place a shovelful of decayed manure to each 
hill. Fresh dung can be immediately applied to corn, if 
spread before ploughing, and well turned in. Plant five 
grains to a hill, and cover two inches deep. When they are 
up, thin out to three. Hoe deeply, and often. In fact, corn 
cannot be hoed too much for its good while young. Draw 
the earth each time a little over the stalk. Plant on any 
spot that happens to be vacant, every three weeks, until 
the first of August here, and a month later in the low 
country, if the early varieties are used. Corn is a gross 
feeder, and cannot get too much manure. It should be 
soaked in a solution of saltpetre twelve hours before plant- 
ing. A sprinkling of guano about the hill is beneficial, if 
it does not touch the seed. Corn is much improved by 
giving the plants, at their first hoeing, a teaspoonful of 
gypsum to each hill, or a pint of ashes, or as much of the 
charcoal poudrette. Chickens, birds, and squirrels can be 
prevented from pulling up the corn, by soaking it twelve 
hours before planting in water, then stirring briskly the 



INDIAN CORN. 285 

seed in a vessel containing a little tar mixed with warm 
water; tlms giving each grain a tliin coat. After which, 
for convenient handling, it is to be rolled in as much ashes, 
gypsum, or lime, as it will take up. One-half bushel of 
corn requires a pint of tar and a gallon of warm water, 
with as much ashes as will stick to the grain. It is effect- 
ual against birds, squirrels, &c.; while the seed vegetates 
freely, if previously soaked. 

For Seed. — Select the best ears from stalks that bear 
more than one. 

Use. — Indian Corn is prepared in a greater variety of 
ways for the table than any other grain. In fact, the 
modes of preparation alone would almost fill a volume. 
That from the garden is mostly boiled green. Green corn 
can be very easily preserved for winter use, by cutting off 
the kernels after boiling, and drying in a shaded, airy 
place. The sweet corn only should be used for this pur- 
pose. 



MEDICINAL HERBS. 

A FEW roots of the most useful of these should be found 
in every garden. The following is a description of those 
most used in families, including their medical qualities, 
and ample directions for their cultivation. The medicinal 
properties of many of these depend upon their aromatic 
qualities, and they are never so fragrant and full of vir- 
tue when groAvn upon ground highly manured. Cham- 
omile, lavender, rosemary, rue, wormwood, and many 
others, lose much of their strength when forced into rank 
growth. Common garden soil, without manuring, is quite 
good enough. Whenever the plants begin to decline, take 
away the old surface soil, and apply fresh, or set out new 
plants in fresh ground. 

Medicinal, pot, or sweet herbs, as a general rule, should 
be gathered when in blooiii, and dried carefully and thor- 
oughly in the shade. When thoroughly dry, press them 
closely into paper bags, or powder them finely ; sift, and 
keep in closely-stopped bottles. 

ANETHUM. 

Aneth um Gra veolens — Dill. 

An annual, a native of Southern Europe, and also of 
the Cape of Good Hope. Cultivated for its seeds, which 
have an aromatic odor, and a warm, pungent, and some- 
what bitter taste. Medicinally, they are good for flatu- 
lence and colic in infants. The leaves are sometimes 
used for culinary purposes, and the seeds are occasionally 
added to pickled cucumbers to heighten the flavor. 

(28fi) 



FENNEL. , 287 

Sow the seeds either early in the spring, or soon after 
they are ripe, in a light soil. Thin, if crowded, and keep 
clean. 

A neihwm Fanicidum—-Y E N N E L. 

Fennel is a hardy, aromatic, perennial plant from the 
Sonth of Europe, growing wild on the banks of rivers, 
and perhaps quite as properly belongs to the culinary as 
the medicinal department of the garden. It has a finely 
divided leaf, and tall umbel-bearing stems, crowned with 
small yellow flowers. 

Culture. — Fennel will grow in almost any soil. It is 
propagated by offsets, parting the roots, or by seed ; all 
which modes may be successfully practised at any time 
between October and April. 

The best season, however, for sovv'ing the seed is when 
it ripens in the fall. If planted, set them one foot apart. 
If sown, in drills twelve inches asunder. The seed may 
be sown moderately thick, about half an inch deep, and 
the earth pressed upon tliem. When the young plants 
are four or five inches high, thin them out to ten or twelve 
inches. Those taken up may be planted out to enlarge 
the bed. Water them freely, if the weather is dry. Keep 
the plants free from, weeds, which is all the cultivation 
required. If the seed is not desired, the stems should be 
cut down as often as they run up ; for, if allowed to ripen 
seed, the old plants will last but few years. But this is of 
little consequence, as plenty of self-sown seedlings will be 
ready to take their place. Eight or ten roots are enough 
for any family. It should be kept within proper limits, as 
it is much inclined to spread. 

Use. — Fennel is a good deal used, in continental Europe, 
in soups, fish-sauces, garnishes, and salads. It is also con- 
siderably used in England, but less with us. The Italians 



288 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

blanch and eat the stalks like celery. A little fennel seed 
sometimes gives an agreeable variety in flavoring apple- 
sauce and pies. But it is most used medicinally. The 
seeds are carminative and stimulant, and in an infusion are 
excellent for the flatulent colic of infants. 

Angelica Archa ngdica — A n G e l i c a . 

A native of many parts of Northern Europe. It is a 
biennial plant, rising from three to five feet high. The 
whole plant is powerfully aromatic. Its roots have a 
fragrant, agreeable odor, and at first a sweetish taste 
which soon turns acrid in the mouth. Its medical proper- 
ties are aromatic, stimulant and gently tonic. 

Its stalks were formerly blanched and eaten like celery, 
but it is now mostly cultivated to make a sweetmeat from 
them when young and tender. They are also candied by 
the confectioners. 

Sow the seed one foot apart in August or September, 
and when they get about four incKes high, the next spring, 
set them in rows two feet apart. Though the plant is 
only a biennial, yet by cutting down the seed-stalk when- 
ever it rises, the same plant may be preserved several 
seasons. Angelica likes a moist, cool soil. 

Anthemis nohilis — Chamomile. 

A perennial, a native of England, cultivated for its 
flowers, which have a bitter aromatic taste, and are in. 
small doses a useful tonic, but given largely, act as an 
emetic. An infusion of them improves digestion and gives 
tone to the disordered stomach. The flowers are some- 
times chewed as a substitute for tobacco. 

It is best propagated by dividing the roots in spring. 
Keep the ground free from weeds. 



WORMWOOD — SOUTHERNWOOD. 289 

Gather the flowers when just in full bloom and dry in 
the shade. 

ARTEMISIA. 

Artemisia Absinthium — Wormwood. 

A native of Europe, perennial, cultivated much in gar- 
dens. Its odor is strong and fragrant, and its taste aroma- 
tic but intensely bitter. It is cultivated for the tops or 
extremities of the branches. Its properties are tonic, 
diuretic, and it is a vermifuge. The dried leaves steeped 
in vinegar are a very useful application to fresh bruises, 
for which it is well worth cultivating. It is also usefully 
employed in antiseptic fomentations. 

Wormwood likes a calcareous soil, and may be raised 
either by cuttings, seeds, or dividing the roots. Cultiva- 
ted same as hyssop ; roots being eighteen inches apart. 
A dry, poor soil is necessary to bring out the peculiar 
virtues of this plant. 

Artemisia Abrotanurn — Southern wood. 

Is very nearly allied to the above, both being species 
of the same genus, and similar as to medical properties. Like 
wormwood, it has a grateful odor, but it is not much used 
in medicine from its nauseous taste. It is a stimulant, 
vermifuge, and emmenagogue. 

For culture, see " Hyssop." 

Borago Off.rinalis — Borage. 
An annual European plant. The tender tops, young 
leaves, and flowers, are sometimes used as a salad by the 
French, and boiled by the Italians. 

Medicinally it was formerly thought endowed with 
very great virtues, and numbered among the four cordial 
flowers. 

Old Girard says, " Those of our time do use the flowers 
13 



290 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

in salads, and to exhilarate and to make the mind glad. 
There be many things made of them used for the comfort 
of the heart, to drive away sorrow and increase the joy 
of the minde." The plant is not much used now except 
as an ingredient in the drink called " a cool tankard," made 
of Avine, water, lemon-juice, and sugar, to which a few of 
the tender leaves seem to give additional coolness. 

Sow early in March or last of February, broadcast, and 
a little thinning and weeding is all the attention that will 
be needed. 

Carum Canii — Caraway. 
A native of England and various other countries of 
Europe. It is a biennial plant, well known to the ancients. 
Pliny mentions it. Caraway is cultivated for its seeds, 
which are useful in confectionery ; as in cakes, comfits, 
&c., and the leaves are sometimes used in soups. The 
roots are said to excel those of the parsnip, being formerly 
cooked and used in the same manner. Medicinally the 
seeds are used in an infusion for flatulence. Sow in 
March or in the autumn, and thin so as to give each plant 
a foot of room. Keep free from weeds. The autumn 
sowing will give seed the next season. 

Centaurea Benedida — Blessed Thistle. 

An annual from Spain, and the Levant. An infusion 
of the leaves is used as a stomachic, to produce an appe- 
tite : if strong, it promotes perspiration. 

Sow the seed in autumn, in light earth. Thin, and 
keep free from weeds. Gather the herb in flower and dry 
with great care, as it is very apt to mould. 

This plant had formerly a great reputation, but it is 
now little used. The taste is very bitter and the smell 
disagreeable. 



THOROUGHWORT — LIQUORICE. 291 

Coria ndrum Sa tivitm — C Rl A N D E R . 

An annual from the East ; also grows natnrally in the 
South of Europe. Some like its tender leaves for soups 
and salads, but it is raised mostly for its seeds which have 
a pleasant aromatic taste, though the smell is disagreeable. 
Coriander seed is carminative and stomachic. It is often 
used to disguise tlie taste of medicines, but it is principally 
employed in confectionery. 

Sow the seed in March, where they are to remain, in 
drills ten inches apart. Do this in dry weather and 
thin the plants to four inches, and keep free from weeds. 

Eupatorium Perfoliatuni — Thoroughwort, or Boneset. 

A native of most of the United States, which, if not 
found growing wild in the vicinity, should be cultivated, 
as it is one of the best herbs in family practice. It has a 
faint odor, an intensely bitter taste, and is slightly astrin- 
gent. Its medicinal virtues are diaphoretic, tonic, and in 
larger doses, emetic and aperient. It is principally used 
as a diaphoretic in colds, catarrhs, and rheumatism, in 
intermittent, remittent, and inflammatory diseases, or given 
cold as a tonic in dyspepsia. A strong infusion given 
warm in bed is almost a sovereign remedy for a cold. To 
a pint of boihng water, add one ounce of the leaves and 
flowers, and take it hot at two or three doses. 

Boneset is a perennial, and can be raised by transplant- 
ing the roots or sowing the seed. 

Glycirrhiza Glabra — Liquorice. 
A hardy perennial from Southern Europe, the saccha- 
rine juice of the root of which is useful in catarrhs, fevers, 
&c. Its taste is sweet and mucilaginous, and it is much 



292 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

used as a demulcent, either alone or combined with other 
substances, for lung diseases. 

A few roots of this plant when once started, will be of 
very little trouble in the garden. The plant is propa- 
gated by cuttings of the roots. Dig the soil at least two 
feet deep. Take the horizontal roots of established plants, 
five or six inches long. Every shoot planted should have 
at least two eyes ; make the rows three feet apart, and the 
plant twelve to fifteen inches in the rows, and cover the 
roots well with mould. Onions, lettuce or radishes, may 
be grown between the rows the first year ; afterwards 
keep the soil free from weeds, dress the surface with ma- 
nure every autumn, and at the end of the third year take 
up the crop as soon as the leaves are fully decayed, and 
dry the roots thoroughly. In shallow or poor ground it 
will not succeed. 

Hyssopus Officinalis — Hyssop. 

Hyssop is a hardy evergreen undershrub from the 
South of Europe, of which the leaves and flower-stalks 
are the parts used medicinally. It has an aromatic odor, 
and a warm pungent taste. It is stimulant and expecto- 
rant, and employed in humoral asthma and chronic catarrh. 

Hyssop is propagated by slips or dividing the roots in 
the spring, or by sowing the seed in March. Transplant the 
young plants in July to where they are to remain, or you 
may thin the young plants to six inches apart, and let 
them remain in the seed-bed until autumn before trans- 
planting. It likes a dry sandy soil, and about eighteen 
inches space should be given to each plant. 

Inula Helenium — Elecampane. 
A native of England and Japan. It is a perennial 
plant, and loves a moist soil. It is cultivated for its thick, 



LAVENDER — PEPPERMINT. 293 

fleshy, carrot-like root, which is useful as an aromatic tonic 
and expectorant. It is very beneficial in chronic coughs 
and catarrhs, and also in dyspepsia. An infusion of the 
root is excellent for a common cold. Cut up fine and fed 
with their corn, the root is a great relief to the distemper 
in horses. 

It is propagated by ofi'sets, or by parting the roots in 
autumn. 

Lavenchda Spica — Lavender. 

A hardy undershrub, a native of the South of Europe. 
It is cultivated for its fragrant spikes of flowers, which are 
used for the distillation of Lavender-water. Being dried 
and put up in paper bags, they are also used to perfume 
linen. Both flowers and leaves are very aromatic. It has 
an agreeable pungent bitterness to the taste, and its medi- 
cal properties are stimulant, cordial, and stomachic, and 
the essential oil mixed with proof spirits is very useful in 
cases of fainting and paralysis, but the chief use of the 
plant is as a perfume. 

Lavender is very hardy and easily cultivated. It may 
be propagated by seeds, slips, or cuttings. Sow the seed 
in drills ten inches apart, and transplant the next spring 
to a dry soil of but medium richness, and it will be more 
highly aromatic. Give each plant about two feet of space ; 
for drying gather the flowers before they begin to fade in 
the least. 

Mentha — Mint. Mentha Piperita — Peppermint. 
A perennial ; a native of Europe. It has a strong, 
figreeable odor, a pungent, aromatic taste, giving a sensa- 
tion of coldness in the mouth. Its medical properties are 
aromatic, stimulant, and stomachic. It is much used to 



29i GARDENIN-Q FOR THE SOUTH. 

^obviate nausea and relieve flatulent colic The essential 
oil and essence are the forms in which it is employed in 
medicine, and they are also largely used in confectionery 
and cordials. 

Mentha Viridis — Spearmint. 

Is a European perennial, and belongs rather to the 
culinary than the medicinal department of the garden. It 
is employed in sauces and salads, as well as dried for 
soups in winter. A few sprigs of mint boiled a little time 
with them, and then withdrawn, are thought by some to 
improve the flavor of green peas. It is also used in pre- 
paring mint-julep. Its medicinal properties are aromatic, 
stimulant, and stomachic. The leaves boiled in milk are 
useful in diarrhoea. Its infusion is good to prevent nausea. 
There are two varieties, the broad and narrow leaved, 
equally good. 

Mint Sauce. — Three tablespoonfuls of young spearmint 

minced, mixed with two of sugar, and six of vinegar. To 

be eaten with roast lamb, to which it imparts a delicious 

flavor. 

ft 
Mentha Puleglum — Pennyroyal. 

Pennyroyal is more acrid than the other mints, and its 
taste and smell are less agreeable. It possesses their 
warm, pungent flavor, and other general properties, but is 
not so good a stomachic. It is used for colds, and also as 
an emmenagogue. Its essence will sometimes relieve the 
toothache. The American pennyroyal belongs to a dif- 
ferent genus, IIedeo7na. 

This genus of plants requires a tenacious soil, which is 
all the better if moist or even wet. 

A border sheltered from the mid-day sun, but not 
entirely secluded from its influence, is always to be allotted 



BALM — HOREHOU.XD. 295 

them, as in siicli a situation tliey are most vigorous and 
constant in production. 

They are readily propagated by dividing the roots in 
the winter or spring, or by cuttings planted in moist soil 
during summer. 

The only after culture required, is an occasional slight 
manuring, and the destruction of weeds. 

New beds should be made as often as once in four years. 

Melissa Officinalis — Balm. 

A hardy perennial, native of Switzerland and the South 
of France, but has long been cultivated in gardens. It 
has an aromatic taste, and a grateful fragrant smell, a little 
like lemons. 

It is a square-stemmed plant, rising about two feet high. 
It is used in making balm-tea, a grateful drink in fevers, 
and for forming a pleasant beverage called balm wine. 
The infusion promotes perspiration, and is thought good 
for complaints produced by a disordered nervous system. 
Balm is a great favorite with the bees. 

Any garden soil will do for balm. It is readily propa- 
gated either by slips, or by parting the roots in spring. 
Plant ten inches apart, giving water if dry weather. 

Marruhiuni Vulgare — Horehound. 

A perennial plant, a native of most parts of Europe, 
growing in waste grounds among rubbish in warm dry 
situations. It has a strong aromatic smell, and a bitter, 
pungent taste, which is permanent in the mouth ; medici- 
nally, horehound is a tonic, somewhat stimulant and diuretic, 
and in large doses laxative. It is useful in asthma and 
jaundice, and is a favorite remedy in pulmonary complaints. 

Obstinate catarrhs have been cured by taking the ex- 



296 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

pressed juice in new milk. It enters largely into the 
composition of cough syrups and lozenges. 

Sow the seeds in the spring, in any common soil. It 
scarcely needs any attention. It may also be propagated 
by dividing the roots. 

Pimjpinella Anisum — Anise. 

An annual, a native of Egypt. It is cultivated for its 
seeds, and its leaves which are occasionally used as a 
garnish, and for seasoning like fennel. The seeds have a 
fragrant agreeable smell, and a sweetish pleasant taste. 
They are useful in weakness of the stomach and bowels, in 
dyspepsia, and colic, and in restoring the tone of the 
stomach generally. 

The plant grows about 18 inches high. Sow the seed 
Arhere it is to stand in April, in a dry, light soil, and thin 
out the plants, if too thick, to three or four inches apart. 

Rosmarinus Officinalis — Rosemary. 

A hardy, evergreen shrub, a native of the South of 
Europe. It has a fragrant, grateful odor, and a warm 
aromatic bitter taste. Its medicinal virtues are tonic, 
stimulant, and resolvent, and it is a useful, but powerful 
emmenagogue. It is employed in chlorosis, uterine ob- 
structions, and nervous headaches generally. 

It was formerly believed this plant gave strength to the 
memory. The tender tops are the parts used in medicine. 

Rosemary may be raised from seed, or by planting slips 
or cuttings in the spring or autumn. Sow the seed in 
drills sixteen inches apart. Transplant the next spring or 
autumn. Two or three plants will be enough. 



RUE — SAGE. 297 

KiUa Graveolens — Rue. 

A perennial, evergreen under-shrub from the South of 
Europe. It flowers all summer, and is very well known 
from its peculiar strong, unpleasant smell. Its taste is 
bitter and pungent, and the leaves so acrid as to blister the 
skin. It is a very powerful medicinal agent, and must be 
employed with caution. It is tonic, stimulant, antispas- 
modic, and an emmenagogue, owing its power to the 
essential oil of the leaves. Rue is much used in hysteria 
and nervous complaints, also for flatulent cholic. A strong 
infusion as a clyster is found useful in the convulsions of 
children. The plant is too powerful to be generally used 
in family practice. 

Rue is propagated by seeds, cuttings, or slips. It must 
not have a very rich soil, nor be suffered to run to seed. 
Sow the seed and cultivate as hyssop. 

Salvia Officinalis — Sage. 

Sage is an evergreen under shrub, a native of the South 
of Europe. It has been cultivated from the earliest times, 
was classed among the heroic remedies, and considered 
the best of medicines for prolonging human life. An old 
Latin adage is ** Cur moriatur homo cui salvia crescit in 
horto," "Why should a man die while sage is growing in 
his garden." Sage grows about two feet high, with 
wrinkled ashy green leaves, and terminal blue flowers in 
long spikes. It has a fragrant smell, and a warm bitterish 
aromatic taste. 

Culture. — Sage is raised from seed, slips or cuttings. It 
likes a dry, fertile soil. Sow the seeds in February, May, or 
March, in shallow drills eight inches apart. Press the earth 
upon the seed, covering them not over half an inch deep. 
Tiiin the plants when well up to half a foot apart, planting 
10* 



298 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

those taken np at a simillar distance. Keep the soil light and 
free from weeds. In the autumn or the next spring, plant 
them out in rows eighteen inches each way. Layers and 
rooted offsets may be set out at once at this distance. 
Cuttings of the outward shoots of the current year's 
growth, planted out in a shady border in moist weather, 
readily take root ; set them in rows six inches apart. In 
autumn or spring, take them carefully up and set them 
out in their final stations. Trim the plants to a round, 
bushy head. Gather and dry the leaves for winter use, 
but do not trim the plants too closely, especially in autumn 
or winter. 

Use. — The leaves are used for seasoning stuffings, sauces, 
and many kinds of meat, as well as to improve the flavor of 
various other articles of cookery. Medicinally its infusion 
is given warm as a sudorific, or mingled with vinegar and 
alum is an excellent gargle in sore throat. It is stated by 
Bomare, that it was exported formerly by the Dutch to 
China, and it was so much preferred by the Chinese to 
their own tea, that they Avillingly exchanged two boxes of 
it for one of sage. 

Salvia Sclarea — Clary. 

A biennial from Italy. The leaves of this plant were 
formerly used in soups, and its flowers are now made use 
of in a fermented wine. 

The medicinal virtues of the plant are cordial and 
astringent, and it is used either in its fresh or dried state, 
For propagation and culture, see *' Sage." 

Sesamum Orient ah — Bene. 
An annual, a native of Africa and India. Introduced 
into this country by the negroes. It grows from three to 
six feet high, bearing numerous pods, filled with smallish 



B EXE— TANSY. 299 

seed. These are used for food in many parts of the 
world, and are also cultivated for the oil with which 
they abound. It resembles that of oli\'es, and is nearly 
as good. The leaves abound in mucilage ; one or two 
stirred in a pint of water, will form a bland mucila- 
ginous drink very useful in cholera infantum, dysentery 
and summer complaints generally. The leaves should be 
freshly gathered, and enough may be added to make the 
water ropy without affecting its color or taste. Give this 
drink to the little sufferers in moderate quantity, and it will 
afford great relief. 

Sow a row in April, on the edge of a plat or border, and 
thin out as the plants require room. A few plants will 
furnish all the leaves desired. 

Tanacetum Vulgare — Tansy. 

A perennial, a native of Europe, long cultivated in gar- 
dens. It was formerly used to give flavor to puddings 
and omelets. 

Its medical properties are tonic and stomachic. It is 
also a vermifuge. It is much used as a domestic remedy 
beneficial in dyspepsia, hysteria, arising from uterine 
affections, and in gout. It was formerly of very general 
use in the preparation of alcoholic bitters. 

Divide the roots, and Set out a few slips in autumn or 
spring. After it is well rooted, be careful you do not get 
too much of it. 



THE FRUIT OARDEN. 

Since the publication of the " Fruit and Fruit Trees of 
America," by the late Mr. Downing, fruit culture has re- 
ceived increased attention in all parts of the Union. The 
raluable Treatises of Thomas, Cole, and Barry, soon fol- 
lowed, and more recently that of Elliot ; each containing 
much additional matter which, with the monthly issues of 
the Horticulturist, Hovey's Magazine, and for a time the 
Western Horticultural ^Review, leave little in pomologi- 
cal literature to be desired for the Northern States. But, 
unhappily for us, many of the varieties described in these 
works are wholly unsuited to our climate. This is espe- 
cially true of the apple. The modes of culture and prun 
ing there recommended, are in the main as well adapted 
to this latitude as to any other, bearing in mind that 
mulching is more beneficial here, that we must prune 
much more closely in transplanting, and form the heads of 
the trees necessarily much nearer the earth than is abso- 
lutely required in a cooler climate. Insects too, of all 
kinds, are more annoying, and require more vigilance to 
keep them under. So, upon the whole, more care is re- 
quired to keep our trees in a perfectly healthy condition. 
Besides, fruits decay so quickly with us, that it is more 
difficidt to get them to market in good condition, or to 
preserve them long for home use. 

On the other hand, our climate has some peculiar ad- 
vantages. A tree well cared for, makes fully twice the 
growth it will do as far north as New York. It will 
come generally some years sooner into bearing. Besides, 

(800) 



THE FKUIT GARDEN. 801 

many fruit trees can be readily made to grow from cut- 
tings ; and trees thus propagated come very soon into 
bearing, and are in general equally healthy with those 
grown by other modes. 

Our lists below are not very long, and doubtless some 
varieties named in them will give place to native sorts, 
when the latter become more widely diffused. Every 
owner of a choice native fruit should interest himself in 
disseminating it. Our great deficiency, at present, is in 
late-keeping fruits, especially iDf the fall and winter pears 
and apples, in sufficient variety. Peaches, too, of fine qual- 
ity, that will ripen here in September, and a few ripening 
still later, are very desirable, A few years more experience 
and the fruiting of many varieties now collected, will 
doubtless render it possible to improve the lists that fol- 
low — though with the exception of the varieties of the 
Orange family and the Olive, there is hardly a fruit in 
them, that is not a familiar acquaintance to the writer, 
and these lists may be relied on as embracing the most val- 
uable varieties that have fruited in this section up to 1856. 
The collections of Dr. Ward, Mr. Camak, and others, 
planted as far back as 1836, and now in full bearing, and 
more recently Mr. Van Buren's, at Clarksville, together 
with my own, have rendered it less difficult to form select 
lists of the most desirable kinds. Besides the varieties 
fully described, a list of those worthy of trial is occasion- 
ally added, embracing those found most desirable in other 
sections, which are likely to prove of equal or superior 
value here. As these come into bearing, notes of their 
quality will be given from time to time in the ** Southern 
Cultivator." Most of them will fruit the next summer 
(1856) in my ground. 

The main requisites for a fruit garden are protection 
from pillage by a suitable hedge or other enclosure ; with- 



802 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

out which a garden is more annoyance than pleasure; 
freedom in its aspect from a full southern or eastern expo- 
sure, that the sun's rays may not strike the trees when the 
frost is upon them ; thorough drainage to carry off sur- 
plus moisture before it stagnates, and a soil of medium 
texture and good quality, of great depth, naturally, or 
made so by subsoiling or trenching. Over rich soil is not 
desirable — especially if made so by animal manures ; but it 
must be of at least good quality, and above all deep. Trees 
can neither make growth nor swell their fruit (drawing so 
largely as they do in both cases, of moisture from the 
soil), during our protracted droughts, unless the soil is 
deeply trenched. In a soil two or three feet in depth 
they will hold their fruit, maintain the deep, healthy green 
of their foliage and continue their growth in our most try- 
ing seasons. It is much less expense to prepare the 
ground thoroughly before the trees are planted. While 
the trees are young, sufficient manure from time to time can 
be applied to keep the soil in good condition, and almost 
any low groiving hoed crop can be raised among them. 
Corn is very objectionable, as it shades and nearly starves 
the young trees. It is necessary to keep the soil well 
cultivated to ensure rapid growth. After the trees are 
well grown, it is better to give them the whole ground and 
turn in, daily, during the fruit season, poultry or swine to 
devour the fallen fruit and to destroy insects. The whole 
orchard should receive a shallow plowing every autumn, 
and may be sown with barley, to keep the soil from wash- 
ing during winter. This must on no account be allowed 
to ripen, but be fed off by swine or turned into the soil as 
green manure, in the spring. A good Avinter vetch would 
be very desirable for this purpose, as legumes draw most 
of their food from the air, while barley is nourished mostlj' 
from the soil, to the greater detriment of the trees. 



THE ALMOND. 803 

Amygdalis Communis — Almond. 

The almond is a native of Asia, and Northern Africa. 
It is a tree of medium size, nearly allied to the peach in 
habit and general appearance. The leaves are similar to 
the peach, having glands like some varieties of the latter 
frnit, and flowers of similar shape, but much larger and 
more ornamental, varying in color from snowy white to a 
fine blush. The chief difference is in the fruit, the stone 
of the almond being flatter, not so hard, and covered with 
a woolly skin that opens spontaneously when the kernel 
is ripe. 

In southern Europe, the almond is much cultivated, and 
large quantities of nuts exported. The kernel is the part 
in use; the sweet varieties, whether green or dry, 
form a very nutritious article of food, and a most agreeable 
addition to the dessert. Almonds are used in confection- 
ery, cooking, perfumery, and medicine. The Bitter 
almond is the kind used in perfuming and flavoring. It 
owes its flavor to the prussic acid it contains, which, though 
a violent poison, is not thought injurious in the small quan- 
tities required for these purposes. 

Cidtivaticn. — A warm, dry soil is most suitable for the 
almond, Avhich is cultivated exactly like the peach, and 
is subject to the same diseases. It may be budded on the 
almond, peach, or plum stock, I have not been able to find 
any analysis of the ash of the almond tree. It probably 
differs little from that of the peach. The varieties are : 
Common Almond. — Nuts one and one-fourth inches 
long, hard, smooth, compressed, and pointed, with a 
kernel of agreeable flavor. The hardiest and most pro- 
ductive variety, and is the common, hard-shelled almond 
of the shops. Flowers expand before the leaves. 

Long, Hard-sheUed Almond. — Nut of the same size, 



S04: GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

but kernel larger and better flavor than the preceding. 
Flowers large, rose-colored, and the tree very ornamental 
when in blossom. 

Ladies' lliui-shcllcd Almond. — The soft-shelled almonds 
of the shops. Flowers are of a deeper color than the fore- 
going variety. Nut oval, one-sided, pointed, with a 
porous, light-colored shell, so tender that it may be 
crushed with the fingers. Kernel sweet, rich, and highly 
esteemed. 

Bitter Almonds — are of several varieties, differing in the 
hardness of the shell, closely resembling the others, except 
in the bitter kernel. Blossoms pale pink. Leaves larger, 
and of a darker green than the other varieties. 

Amj/gda/u s Fersica — Peach. 

The peach is a native of Persia, whence its cultivation 
has proceeded westward; but it has nowhere found a soil 
or climate more congenial to it than in these Southern 
States. Indeed, the peach is the favorite, and, in many 
instances, the only fruit tree cultivated by our planters. 
Requiring a soil of but moderate fertility, its enemies and 
diseases are so few, and the return so speedy, that there 
is no excuse for being without good peaches. 

We entirely escape the yellows and the curl, I believe, 
except in the case of northern importations, which gener- 
ally recover, though checked for a season. The borer is 
not very abundant, but is on the increase. The worm in 
the fruit is very troublesome, especially in the white-fleshed 
varieties. The borer can be prevented from entering the 
tree, generally, by covering the collar thereof with lime or 
leached ashes. If already in the tree, which is shown by 
the gum exuding from the collar, he may be dug out with 
a knife ; or hot water can be poured about the base of the 
tree and into his haunts at any time, which will destroy 




THE PEACH. 805 

the, grub Avitliout injury to tlie tree. Tlie worm in the 
fruit is best prevented by permitting pigs or fowls to con- 
sume all the fallen fruit of the orchard as it drops. 

A somewhat serious difficulty, in peach culture, is there- 
suit of bad pruning. It is the tendency to 
overbear and break down the limbs from the 
excess of the crop. More peach trees are 
destroyed or badly injured from this cause 
than any other. The peach trees hould 
always be pruned at the extremities of 
the branches, by cutting off, close to a bud, one-third, or, 
if very luxuriant, one-half the last year's growth. (See 
plate of tree properly pruned in the figure.) The fruit is 
produced on these small branches ; and by reducing the 
top in this manner, overbearing is prevented, the fruit is 
effectually thinned, and is larger, finer flavored, and nearly 
as much fruit can be taken from each tree without danger 
of breaking. The tree is also kept low and close, and 
more trees and larger crops can be grown to the acre. This 
method of pruning is called shortening-in, or heading-in, 
and is expeditiously done with a pair of pruning shears.* 
Pruning can be performed upon the peach at any time 
when the leaves are off. If it is wished to throw young 
trees very early into fruit, they may be shortened the last 
of July, the year they are transplanted. In shortening-in, 
the top must not be sheared evenly all over like the side 
of a hedge, which would cause a thick, impenetrable mass 
of shoots on the outside, and shut out all light from the 
centre, but the centre should be kept somewhat open. 
Large limbs must, if pruned, be cut off close to a branch. 

^•^ When this is inconvenient, larger portions of the branches may- 
be taken off once in two years, leaving the head in a neat, rounded 
form, and taking care to cut at a fork so as to leave no bare stumps. 
Old trees may be restored in this manner. 



806 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Care slioulcl be taken that the branches are not permitted 
to divide in forks, as they are exceedingly apt to split, to 
the great detriment of the tree. The peach, like all other 
fruit trees, should be suffered to branch low within twelve 
or eighteen inches of the surface, and kept in as near 
either a pyramidal or vase form as its nature admits. 

But the loss of peaches by decay, as they approach ma- 
turity, is more annoying than anything else in peach cul- 
ture. If the season is warm and wet, very few kinds ripen 
well if on moist or very rich soils. There is a very com- 
mon opinion, that peaches propagated from the stones of 
fruit not fully ripe, are more liable to rot than those pro- 
pagated from the pits of fully matured peaches. Is there 
any evidence to sustain this opinion 1 Some also think 
decay and dropping of stone fruits is caused by planting 
the trees too deep. It is however, certain, that some vari- 
eties are much more subject to decay than others placed in 
the same position. Much, also, depends upon the soil. The 
most suitable soils, to ripen sound and high-flavored fruit, 
are dry, and but moderately fertile — a hill-side being as 
good a situation as any. If it faces the north, the crop 
will be less liable to be cut off by spring frosts, but will 
hardly be as fine flavored. Thinning the fruit, so that no 
two peaches touch each other, is very necessary in order 
to prevent decay at the point of contact. 

Uses. — The peach is mostly used in its fresh state for 
the dessert, and is generally considered the most delicious 
fruit of temperate climates. When allowed to ripen on 
the tree, it is the most wholesome of fruits, and as an 
article of food is considerably nutritious. Peaches are also 
used for pies, are preserved in brandy or sugar, and are 
excellent, when dried, for winter use. For culinary pur- 
poses, the clings are most esteemed. Peaches and milk 
form a delicious dessert dish. For drying, take those of 



ANALYSIS OF THE PEACH. 



307 



the best quality, just as tliey are ripe enougli to eat; 
halve them, remove the stones, and sprinkle over them, in 
the hollow from which the pit was taken, a little nice 
sugar, and dry them in a brick oven, after the bread, &c., 
is withdrawn. Thus prepared, the aroma and flavor is 
retained, and they are free from insects. If the peaches 
are fully ripe, no cooking is required, but the dried fruit is 
simply soaked out in cold or warm water. Sufficient 
sugar, varying with the acidity of the fruit, is added be- 
fore drying. The firm yellow-fleshed peaches, of a high 
vinous flavor, are best for drying. Peaches thus prepared 
are only inferior to the fresh fruit, of which they retain 
much of the flavor. Dried in the usual m- ay, from unripe 
fruit, exposed to the sun, much of the flavor is dissipated. 
Peaches are excellent, preserved, in Arthur's Self-sealing 
Cans, according to the directions given with the cans. 

Analysis. — We give an analysis of the peach, by Salis- 
bury : — 




♦ Analysis made with two grains of ash. t Peach limbs half an inch m diameter. 



808 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Lime, potash, and the phosphates, are the chief elements 
the peach requires in the soil. Bone-dust and wood-ashes 
are valuable applications, much more suitable than com- 
mon animal manures. They may be dressed with compost 
of woods earth (leaf-mould), or swamp-muck, if the soil is 
very poor. 

When the trees are planted, the holes may be made 
large, and enriched with well-decayed manure, to give a 
good growth of wood. For this purpose, guano is an ex- 
cellent application ; but it is fatal to the tree, if it touch 
the roots. I have applied it, with success, to all kinds 
of fruit trees. After the holes are dug, a little guano is 
sprinkled in the hole ; this is covered at least two inches 
deep with fresh loam, on which the tree is placed. If 
the soil is very sandy, two inches might not be sufficient 
to protect the roots. When the roots are entirely cov- 
ered, another sprinkling may be given, Avhich is covered 
over with more earth. Two or three tablespoonfuls 
are sufficient for a tree, and but a small quantity is re- 
quired for a large orchard. For this purpose, as well as 
manuring most shrubs, rose bushes, &c., few applications 
are so cheap or so satisfactory. But guano must not touch 
the roots, in its dry, caustic state. After the tree begins 
to fruit, application of lime, ashes or leaf-mould are much 
better than those which excite rank growth, since they do 
not impair the flavor of the fruit, or induce decay. 

The peach is best propagated by budding and grafting 
upon seedling peach stocks. There are, however, many 
varieties, of the clings particularly, that can be raised true 
to their kind by planting the seed, especially if the tree 
from which the stone is taken stands apart from other vari- 
eties. It is believed that the stone of a seedling js more 
apt to reproduce its kind than if taken from the fruit of 
a budded or grafted tree. Seedlings often escape frosts 



THE PEACH. 309 

that are fatal to the finer varieties ; but the highest fla- 
vored seedlings are often quite as susceptible of injury as 
those budded or grafted. High-flavored varieties are 
usually tender. 

Plum stocks are recommended by foreign writers ; but 
they are of little use in this climate, for the graft soon out- 
grows the stock and breaks ofiP. 

Peach stocks are raised by planting the stones two or 
three inches deep, in the autumn or winter. If the stones 
are cracked, they are more sure to grow. Abundance of 
stocks can often be secured by taking the volunteers that 
spring up under the trees early in the spring, when about 
an inch high, and transplanting in rows two and a half feet 
apart and sixteen inches in the row. Plant them in good 
soil, where they will grow rapidly ; for on this, more than 
anything else, the success of budding depends. If the sea- 
son is good, the best will do to bud in June. When the 
bud starts, the top may be headed down, and if the stocks 
are vigorous, they will make sufiicient growth to be fit for 
transplanting the next winter. Budding may be continued, 
while the bark rises freely, until the first of October; the 
last will make no growth until spring, It should, however, 
be performed as early as the stocks will admit. It is best 
in budding, when you do not wish to preserve the scion 
a day or two, to leave a portion of the leaf, say half an 
inch, attached with the leaf-stalk to the bud, as it attracts 
the sap, and the bud is more likely to take. The bud 
should be put in the north side of the stock, to screen it 
from the sun. Any of the trees which have failed in 
taking the bud may be taken up, and grafted in the root 
the ensuing winter; a mode of propagation which for- 
tunately succeeds well here, as it enables us to procure 
scions of valuable varieties, in a dormant state, from all 
sections of the Union. 



810 GAKDJilNING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Peach trees raised or varieties originating in the North- 
ern States, are not at all unfitted for our climate. We 
know of trees from the North, imported in 1836, and 
others almost every year since, growing side by side with 
good native varieties, and giving as profitable results. It 
will be many years, before we get twenty-five as good 
southern varieties that ripen in succession as can be 
selected from any nursery catalogue. Still every superior 
variety — especially of those that ripen late, for such can- 
not be procured at the North — should be disseminated at 
once. It sometimes happens that a fruit which originates 
in one locality, is better fitted for some other section. 
Some few European varieties of fruits are found to suc- 
ceed better on this continent than even where they origi- 
nated. 

Peach trees, in transplanting, are usually set twenty 
feet apart each way ; which gives one hundred and eight 
trees to the acre. They may, if shortened in yearly, be 
set out fifteen feet apart, which will give one hundred and 
ninety-three trees, or in small gardens twelve feet, giving 
three hundred and two trees per acre. In gardens, fifteen 
feet is generally the best distance. 

Peaches are so much alike in general character — the 
difference in outline, color, flavor, and texture being less 
than with other fruits, it is necessary in order to determine 
the name of a variety, to resort to other methods of dis- 
tinction. 

The two most obvious divisions are into free- stones and 
cling-stones ; or, as we call them, soft and plum peaches — 
the flesh of the former parting freely from the stone, and 
being of a melting consistency ; and that of the latter ad- 
hering to the stone, and being of a firmer texture. The 
English name these divisions, melters and pavies. Both 
these grand divisions are subdivided into classes according 



THE PEACH. 311 

to the color of the flesh — viz. : those with light-colored and 
those with deep-yellow flesh. These classes are again 
subdivided into three sections. 

At the base of the leaf, of some varieties, will be found 
small glands which are either round and regular, or oblong 
and irregular, or kidney-shaped ; while others have no 
glands, but are more deeply cut or serrated like the teeth 
of a saw. 




SERRATED AXD GLA.VDLE?S. GLOBOSE GLAXD3. FKXIFORM GLAXDa 

Hence the three sections, viz. : 1., Leaves serrated with- 
out glands, a. ; 2. Leaves with small, round, or globose 
glands, b. ; 3. Leaves with large irregular reniform glands, c. 

From the blossom, another characteristic is derived, 
giving us two subsections. The first embracing large 
flowers, red in the centre, and pale at the margin. The 
second, small flowers, tinged Avith dark at the margin. 
Most of the native peaches, in this vicinity, belong to the 
first class ; but the great mass of the finest fruits have 
small flowers. 

Varieties. — The following varieties have been tried in 
in this vicinity, and are found among the most desirable. 
They are classed pretty much in the order of ripening.* 
A full list of good clingstones in succession, from the 

* In 1852, two or three weeks earlier than the next year ; so the 
tunes of ripening, and even the order cannot be fully relied on. 



812 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

beginning to the end of the peach season is yet to be 
obtained. All named are good bearers. 

ColumhiLS June. — Glands reniform ; flowers small ; fruit 
medium to large, flattened, or slightly hollowed at the 
apex ; suture shallow ; skin pale yellowish white, with 
rich, red cheek ; flesh slightly red at stone, melting, juicy, 
and high-flavored ; excellent ; ripens here 20th June 
productive. Free. 

Serrate Early Yoi'k. — Leaves serrate, glandless ; flowers 
large ; fruit — size medium, roundish oval ; suture slight ; 
skin thickly dotted with pale red on a greenish-white 
ground, in the shade — dark red in the sun ; flesh 
greenish-white, tender, melting, full of rich, slightly acid 
juice ; ripens 20th June. Free. 

Walter's Early. — Glands globose ; flowers small ; size 
above medium ; color, nearly white, with a fine red 
cheek ; flesh, whitish, slightly red at stone — melting, 
juicy, sweet, and fine-flavored ; not so easily injured by 
frost as some others ; likes sandy soils ; succeeds as far 
south as Mobile ; ripens 1st of July. Free. 

Early Netvivgton Free. — Glands globose ; flowers small ; 
fruit medium to large, round ; suture distinct ; one half 
larger than the other ; skin yellowish-white, dotted and 
streaked with red ; cheek rich red ; flesh white, red at 
stone, to which it partially adheres ; juicy, melting, and 
vinous. Ripens early in July. 

Grosse Mignonne. — Glands globose ; flowers large; fruit 
large, roundish, apex, depressed, suture distinct ; skin 
dull white, mottled with red, and with a purplish red 
cheek ; flesh red at the stone, melting, juicy; with a rich, 
high vinous flavor ; stone small, very rough ; perhaps, the 
best free-stone peach in cultivation ; ripens July 8th. If 
it has a rival it is 

George IV. — Glands globose: flowers small ; fruit lar^c, 



THE PEACH. 313 

round, with broad suture; skin white, dotted with red, 
and rich, dark-red cheek ; flesh pale, melting, very juicy, 
with rich, luscious flavor ; stone small ; ripens July 8th. 
Free. 

Crawford's Early. — Glands globose; flowers small; a 
yellow-flesh peach ; fruit very large, oblong, with a pro- 
minent, swollen point ; skin yellow, with a fine, red cheek ; 
flesh yellow, melting, sweet, and excellent ; ripens middle 
of July. Free. 

Belle de Beaucaire. — Glands globose ; flowers small ; 
fruit very large, roundish, with protruding point, suture 
shallow, but distinctly marked ; skin light-yellowish green, 
with cheek slightly reddened. Flesh pale greenish yellow 
red at the stone, a little coarse, but melting and deli- 
cious, full of rich, vinous juice ; skin slips readily from 
the flesh, without the use of a knife ; ripens last of July. 
Free. Variable, but in perfection most excellent. 

Old Mixon Cling. — Glands globose ; flowers small ; fruit 
large, roundish oval ; suture at top ; skin yellowish white» 
dotted with red, red cheek ; flesh light, melting, juicy, 
with a rich, high, luscious flavor. Ripens last of July and 
early in August. There is no better peach known. 

Late Red Rareripe. — Glands globose ; flowers small ; 
fruit large, roundish, oval ; skin downy, grayish-white, 
marbled with red in the sun ; flesh pale, juicy, melting, and 
of a rich, luscious flavor. Ripens last of July. 

Late Admirable. — Glands globose ; flowers small; fruit 
large, roundish, oval ; suture distinct ; apex swollen, acute ; 
skin pale, yellowish-green, Avitli pale, red cheek, marbled 
with darker red ; flesh pale, melting, and fine-flavored ; 
Ripens 10th to 15th August. Free. A superb peach, 

Crawford's /".a^e.— Glands globose; flowers small; a 
magnificent yellow peach ; very large, roundish ; suture 
shallow, but distinct ; skin yellow, with dark red cheek ; 

14 



3U GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

flesh deep yellow, red at stone; juicy and melting, with 
licli, vinous flavor ; early in August. Free. 

Newlngton Cling. — Leaves serrate ; flowers large ; fruit 
large, roundish ; suture slight ; skin pale yellowish-white, 
with fine, red cheek ; flesh pale, yellowish-Avhite, deep-red 
at the stone ; melting, juicy, and rich. A cling. Ripens 
10th August. 

Lemon Cling. — Glands reniform ; flowers small ; leaves 
long; fruit large, oblong, narrowed at top, with a swollen 
projecting-point ; skin rich, dark-yellow, reddened in the 
sun ; flesh fine yellow, red at the stone, with a rich vinous 
flavor. Ripens 10th of August. Cling. Pitt's Lemon- 
Cling is an improvement on the above. 

President. — Glands globose ; large, roundish, oval ; su- 
ture shallow ; skin downy, pale, yellowish-green, with a 
dull, red check ; flesh pale, but deep red at the stone, very 
juicy, melting, and high-flavored ; stone very rough. 
Middle of August. Free. 

Yellow Blanton- Cling. — Leaves large; glands globose; 
Fruit large, and shaped like Lemon-Cling, with the same 
projecting, swollen point ; skin rich orange, with a slightly 
reddened cheek ; flesh orange yellow ; firm, but full of 
a delicious vinous juice. Later and better than the Le- 
mon-Cling. To my taste the best of the clings. Repro- 
duces itself from seed. Ripens August 10th. 

Tippecanoe- Cling. — Glands reniform ; flowers small ; 
fruit very large, nearly round, with a point ; skin yellow, 
with fine red cheek ; flesh yellow, juicy, with fine, vinous 
flavor. Ripe the last of August. 

White English- Cling. —(ji\2,\\diS^\oh\\\o&Q ; flowers small ; 
fruit very large oval ; suture slight, with a swollen point 
at top ; skin clear creamy white, with a slight hue of red 
on the sunny side ; flesh delicate white, free from red at 
the stone, to which it firmly adheres ; very rich, juicy, 



THE PEACH. 315 

and high flavored. As it is free from color, one of the 
best for preserving in sugar or brandy. Doubtless ori- 
ginated from the Heath Cling, with which it is almost 
identical. 

Baugli. — Leaves with globose glands ; fruit medium, 
roundish, terminated Avith a small point ; suture obscure ; 
skin pale yellow, almost white, with a slight blush to- 
wards the sun ; flesh yellowish white, melting and juicy, 
with a sweet, pleasant flavor. Free. Ripens 1st October. 
Baldwin'' s Late. Free. — Fruit large, oblong, with a 
distinct swollen point at the top ; skin greenish white, 
with a slight red cheek ; flesh very firm, juicy, melting, 
and well flavored. Eipe last of October, and will keep 
several weeks in the house. 

Freestone.* — Disseminated by Dr. Baldwin, of Mont- 
gomery. 

EdivarcVs Late White and P ride of Autumn ; the latter 
especially, are described as excellent late Peaches. 
Lady Parham, Mr. Afllech writes, is the only October 
Peach he knows of first rate quality. Free. 

Scotfs Late October is said by Mr. Summer to be a 
large Cling, with a dingy greenish skin ; flesh firm and 
remarkably sweet, ripening last of October. 

While this work is going through the press, Mr. Nelson, 
in the Southern Cultivator, gives the following select list 
as those his large experience proves most desirable : — 

May Peach. — ^Eipens last of May. Small white ; flesh 
white, sweet and pleasant. Free. Early A^ine. — Round, 
pure white, small size, very juicy and delicious. Ripens 
first week in June. Free. Early Tillotson. — Ripens loth 
June. Early York (Serrate). — Ripens 20th June. Flew- 
cllen. — The earliest Cling; flesh deep red, exceedingly 

* Nelson. 



ol6 gaede:sing for the south. 

juicy and refresliing, of high, vinous flavor. Ripens July 
1st. Yellow Rareripe. — Large, deep orange, juicy and 
well flavored. Ripens July 4th — free. Walter's Early. 
— Ripens July 8th. Gross Mignoime. — Ripens July 8th. 
Vanzandt's Superl. — White, nearly covered with red, 
juicy, melting, and high flavored. Ripens July 10th ; too 
tender for market — free. Bergeti's Yellow. — Best of 
Yellow Peaches ; dingy yellow, covered with dark, dull 
red ; flesh orange, very juicy — free. Ripens July lOtli. 
Crawford's Early. — Ripens July 12th. Red Rareripe. — 
Resembles Gross Mignonne externally; a week later ; too 
tender for market, but delicious for home use. Ripens 
July 16th. George Fourth. Old Mixon Free. — Ripens 
July 18th. Very juicy and fine. Congress Cliiig. — Like 
Old Mixon Cling, large, very juicy, sweet, and well flavor- 
ed ; excellent for market. Ripens July 20th. Napo- 
leon. — Large, oblong, skin dingy green, considerably cov- 
ered with red ; flesh firm, marbled with blood red, very 
juicy and rich. Ripens July 20th. Green Catherine. — 
Large, oblong, creamy white, with red cheeks, firm, sweet, 
and delicious. Ripens July 20th — free. Late Admira- 
ble. — Ripens July 20th. Breevoort. — Large, firm, and 
well flavored — free. Ripens July 20th. President. — 
Ripens July 24th. Crawford's Late. — Ripens July 24th. 
Columbia, or Pace. — Ripens August 3d. Druid Hill. — 
Greenish white, slight red cheek, juicy, melting and rich. 
Ripens August 8th. Newington Cling. — Creamy white, 
red cheek, red at stone, very juicy and well flavored. 
Ripens August 10th. Late Rareripe. — Greyish green, 
marbled with red, very downy, dark red cheek, juicy, melt- 
ing and rich. Ripens August 10th. Le^non Cling. — 
Ripens August 20th. Lagrange. — Large, oblong, very 
downy ; skin pure white, marked with dark spots ; flesh 
white, firm, and juicy — free. Ripens August 20th. 



k 



THE NECTARINE. 317 



Amydalus Vulgaris Var LcEvis — Nectarine. 

The nectarine is merely a variety of the peach with a 
smooth skin. It is impossible to distinguish the tree from 
a peach, except that the fruit is without down. The same 
characteristics of the leaf, flower, &c., which are used to 
describe the varieties of the peach, are brought into re- 
quisition in distinguishing those of the nectarine. 

Nectarines usually produce nectarines from the seed ; 
but the Boston nectarine originated from a peach stone. 

The tree is cultivated and pruned like the peach, and 
is propagated by budding or grafting on peach stocks. 
The great difficulty in raising nectarines (and the same is 
true of the apricot), is the curculio. The smooth skin of 
these fruits offers an inviting place for this insect to de- 
posit its eggs. The injured fruit may be known by being 
marked with a small semi-circular impression as if cut with 
a " baby's nail." It is useless to plant the nectarine or 
apricot, especially in sandy soils, unless the trees are daily 
jarred, and the insects collected on sheets as they fall, 
and immediately destroyed. A limb maybe cut off the 
tree, and the stump hit a few times with a mallet smartly, 
since if gently shaken the insect will not loose its hold. 
Or another very good method is to plant the plums, 
apricots, and nectarines by themselves, and admit poultry, 
and swine to eat the fallen fruit, which will, if other fruit 
gardens are not contiguous, protect the crop the succeed- 
ing year.* The borer infests the nectarine as well as the 



- In preventing the curculio, I am inclined to think that fowls are 
much more serviceable than swine. The latter are of less use the 
current season, and mostly beneficiaJ as regards the ensuing crop ; 
but the chickens and ducks will take the perfect insect, whenever 
he falls upon the earth, or rises from it in the spring. 



SIS GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

peach. Aside from the curciilio, the nectarine is as hardy 
and easily raised as the peach ; though scarcely equal to 
the best peaches in flavor. Fine fruit is not to be ex- 
pected unless the trees are shortened-in annually, as di- 
rected for the peach. 

The analysis of the nectarine scarcely differs from the 
peach — it requires exactly the same soil. The best 
varieties are : 

Hunfs Tawny — Leaves serrate ; flowers small ; fruit, 
medium size, roundish, oval, Avith swollen point ; skin pale 
orange ; dark red in the sun, mottled with russet specks ; 
flesh orange, juicy, melting, and rich ; a good bearer. Ripens 
10th July. Free. 

Vioktte Hative or Early Violet. — Glands reniform ; 
flowers small ; fruit, large, roundish, pale, yellowish-green, 
with purplish red cheek, mottled with brown ; flesh 
whitish-red at the stone, melting, juicy, and delicious. 
Ripens 20th July. 

Doionton. — Glands reniform ; fruit, large, roundish-oval ; 
skin, pale green, red at the stone, melting, and most deli- 
cious. Ripens 20th to 25th of July. 

Elriige. — Glands reniform ; flower small ; fruit me- 
dium, roundish-oval ; sviture slight ; skin pale-green^ with 
deep violet, or blood-red cheek, and minute brown specks ; 
flesh pale-green, pale-red at stone, melting, juicy, and 
rich ; stone oval, rough, and pale-colored. Ripens July 25th. 

Boston. — Glands globose ; flower small ; fruit, large, 
roundish-oval ; skin, bright yellow, with deep-red cheek ; 
flesh yellow, not rich but sweet and pleasant. Ripens 
last of July. 

New White. — Glands reniform ; flower large; fruit large, 
nearly round ; skin white, with slight tinge of red in the 
sun ; flesh, white, tender, juicy, vinous, and rich ; stone 
small. Ripens 1st of August. 



THE APRICOT. 819 

The best Clingstone nectarine is the Early Nev\dngton ; 
and the best of all nectarines is said to be the Stanwick, 
the quality of which is yet to be ascertained in this coun- 
try. Temple's is said also to be a fine variety. 

Armeniaca Vulgaris — Apricot. 

The apricot is a fruit somewhat resembling both the 
plum and the peach. The tree is ornamental as well as 
useful ; larger than the plum, with glossy, heart-shaped, 
large leaves, and white blossoms, which appear so early 
that they are often cut off by frosts. But as with the 
nectarine, the great obstacle to its culture is the curculio, 
which may be warded off as in the case of that fruit. In 
favorable seasons, when protected from the curculio, the 
apricot is exceedingly productive. 

The apricot is a native of Armenia, and other parts of 
Central Asia. In qualit}^ it is second only to the peach ; 
but coming earlier (with the earliest plums) it is very ac- 
ceptable. For jellies, tarts, and preserving in brandy or 
sugar, it is much esteemed, and is excellent when dried 
as directed for the peach. 

The apricot is generally budded on the plum stock. It 
is sometimes propagated on its own root, and also upon the 
peach. The plum is the hardier stock, and produces the 
best tree. It may be root-grafted on the Chickasaw plum 
by the method of whip-grafting. Those propagated by 
seed, are usually very hardy and productive. On the 
peach stock, the tree is liable to be destroyed by the 
borer, and the fruit is inferior. 

Apricots are so apt to bloom too early in the spring, 
that it is better to plant them in northern exposures where 
they will be retarded in blooming, by the shade of build- 
ings there is less danger of severe frost. It is just as 
necessary to shorten in the young branches of the apricot 



S20 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

as those of the peach. The best soil is a deep loam ; cul- 
tivate and mannre the same as the plum or peach. I can 
find no analysis. 

The hardiest Apricots are Dubois, Orange, and Breda. 

The best varieties are : 

Dubois and Early. — Fruit small, roundish-oval; pale 
orange ; moderately juicy, sweet and good ; very produc- 
tive and hardy. Ripens early in June. 

Large Early. — Fruit medium size, oblong and com- 
pressed ; suture deep ; skin sligtly downy, pale orange in 
the shade ; bright orange or ruddy in the sun ; flesh 
separates freely from the stone, orange colored ; rich and 
juicy ; kernel bitter. Ripens 10th of June. 

Orange. — Fruit medium, roundish, with suture hollowed 
at the stalk ; skin firm, orange, with a ruddy tinge ; flesh 
dark orange, rather dry and somcAvhat adhesive to the 
stone, which is small and roundish ; kernel sweet; not first 
rate; but excellent for tarts, preserving or drying, and 
often bears a full crop when others fail. Ripens June 10th 

Breda. — Small roundish, deep orange — darker in the 
sun ; flesh deep-orange, high-flavored, rich and juicy ; 
separating from the stone ; kernel edible. A native of 
Africa, hardy, productive and fine for dessert or preserves. 
Ripens middle of JunCr 

Peach. — Fruit very large, size of a medium peach, round- 
ish, sides compressed, and with a distinct suture ; skin yel- 
low, but deep orange mottled withbrown in the sun ; flesh 
deep yellow, juicy, rich, and delicious. The finest variety 
in cultivation ; stone perforated. Ripens last of June. 

MoorparJi. — Large roundish oval; skin orange, with 
ruddy cheek ; flesh bright orange, free from stone; juicy and 
of rich luscious flavor ; stone perforated. Hardly differs 
from the preceding, except in being not quite so large 
and a little later. Ripens 21st of July. Very productive. 



CHESTNUT AND OTHER NUTS. 821 



Castama, etc. — Chestnut and other Nuts. 

There are several kinds of nuts worthy of cultivation by 
every planter, many of which are ornamental shade trees, 
besides being valuable for the fruit they yield. For con- 
venience we class them all under one head. 

Castama Vesca. — The Chestnut is a lofty forest tree, 
and common to both continents. The Spanish Chestnut, 
or Marron produces a very large, sweet nut, and is propa- 
gated by grafting on the common sorts. There are several 
varieties of this, of which " Marron de Lyon" is the best. 
It will bear the second year from the graft. Chestnuts 
are difficult to transplant when taken from the woods. 
The improved varieties are much superior to the wild 
sorts. The Chestnut as a shade tree is very effective in 
landscape gardening. 

Carya Alba. — Shell Bark Hickory. This tree is found 
in fertile soils all over the Union, producing the common 
thin shell white hickory nut. The tree is very regular 
and beautiful for ornamental purposes. There is consider- 
able difference in the size and flavor of different varieties. 
It is generally propagated by seed. The largest and 
finest flavored varieties only should be planted. 

Carya OlivcBforiiia, or Pecan nut, is still more worthy of 
cultivation. 

Coryliis Avellana (Filberts) — are generally raised from 
layers. They should not be allowed to sucker, but trained 
to form low heads near the ground, which should be kept 
tolerably open, and the young shoots shortened back every 
spring. Of the varieties : 

Cosford is a large, oblong, oval nut, with a thin shell and 
of fine flavor. Prolific. 

Frizzhd, known by its frizzled husk, nut of medium 
14* 



322 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

size ; oval, compressed, husk, haiiy, shell thick ; kernel 
sweet and good. Productive. 

Red Filbert, known by the crimson skin of the kernel, 
medium sized, ovate, thick shelled, sweet agreeable kernel, 
husk long. 

White Filbert. — Like the last, but with a light yellow 
or white skin. Husk long and tubular, nuts ovate. 

Juglaus Regia . — Maderia nut is a fine lofty tree, with a 
handsome spreading head, producing the well-known nuts 
of the shops. It is produced from the seed or by grafting. 
Likes a rich moist sail. 

Juglaus Praeparturiens is similar to the above, but bears 
when three years old, and is valuable on this account for 
the garden. 

Juglaus Nigra, or Black Walnut, should also have a place 
in the grounds as a fine shade-tree as Avell as for its nuts. 

Pistacia Vera (The Pistaco nut). — An ornamental tree, 
producing agreeable flavored nuts, is much cultivated in 
Southern Europe. The tree is dioecious, so that to pro- 
duce, the male and female trees must be planted together. 
The nuts are oval, the size of the olive, slightly furrowed, 
with a mild flavored, oily nut. They begin to be produced 
when the tree is five or six years old. The tree itself 
grows to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. Nuts of this 
tree have been distributed in various parts of the Union 
by the Patent Office, and the tree will be likely to suc- 
ceed in the low country. 

Cerasus Vulga ris — C H E R R Y. 
The Cherry, it is said, was brought from Asia, by Lu- 
cullus, the Eoman General ; and from Rome, its culture 
spread over Europe. 1\\ cooler latitudes, some of the va- 
rieties are quite ornamental on account of their fine foli- 
age and early white blossoms ; but it stops growing and 



THE CHERRY. 323 

drops its leaves too early in this climate to be esteemed 
for this purpose. 

The Cherry, in favorable climates, is highly esteemed as 
a pleasant and refreshing fruit. The rich, luscious flavor 
of some varieties, and the delicacy and juiciness of oth- 
ers, renders it a very desirable dessert fruit. The tender 
acid sorts are preserved in sugar or brandy, and are excel- 
lent for pies and tarts ; dried slowly by artificial heat, with 
the addition of sugar, the stones being removed; they are 
excellent for winter use. Cherry gum is very similar to 
Gum Arabic. The Cherry is a very difficult fruit to 
bring to perfection in the South, except the common Mo- 
rello ; and even this does not average a really good yield 
oftener than once in two or three years. It likes a mel- 
low loam, so deeply trenched that it will not suffer from 
drought, and pretty well enriched. A thin mulching of 
chip manure or tan bark about the roots, is a beneficial 
application. 

I hav^ been able to obtain an analysis of the fruit and 
stalk only, which is by Richardson t 



CHERRY. 


Entire Fruit. 


Stalk. 


Potassa, . . . . 51.85 


42.66 


Soda, . . . . ■ . 1.12 


6.17 


Lime, .... 7.47 


22.29 


Magnesia, .... 5.46 


2.71 


Sulphuric Acid, . . 5.09 


2.98 


Silicic - . . . 9.04 


2.59 


Phosphoric" . . . 14.21 


14.89 


Phosph. of Sesquioxide of Iron, 3.74 


2.35 


Chloride of Iron, . . 2.02 


2.39 


100.00 


99.00 


Per-centasre of ash . . 0.43 


2.37 



824 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Cherries are generally budded or grafted on the Maz- 
zard or wild European stock, though the Mahaleb or per- 
fumed cherry stock, is far better here. Our common Mo- 
rello seems to do better for stocks here, than the Mazzard. 
If grafted, it must be done very early in the spring, as 
Avell as all other stone fruits. Cherry trees must be cut 
back so low when planted, that they will throw out 
branches within eight or ten inches of the soil, in order to 
shade the roots and trunk ; then keep them shortened-in, 
like the peach. Without this mode of training, it is use- 
less for us to plant the finer varieties, as the sun will kill 
them by scorching the bark. They should be planted in 
a cool situation, as the north side of a building, or on any 
northern exposure, where they will be screened from the 
mid-day sun, as the young fruit is . liable to blight from 
heat, as well as the tree to be injured. 

If caterpillars, or insects of any kind attack the foliage, 
they must be exterminated by some of the modes given 
under the head of insects. The bug is best destroyed by 
throwing ashes or lime up among the leaves, or syring- 
ing with soap and tobacco. 

After the cherry anuves at maturity, the finer kinds are 
generally stolen by the birds, against which, powder and 
shot is the most effectual remedy. Dwarf trees may be 
protected by nets. 

It is not probable that the cherry will be very success- 
fully cultivated in the South, until we have varieties 
raised here from seed, that are adapted to our wants. 
Cherry seed should be planted immediately, because if 
they become dry, they seldom grow. 

Of the varieties described below, the Elton, May Duke, 
and common Morello, have borne fine crops here. The 
Kentish, Late Kentish, Belle Magnifique, Reine Hortenso, 
and English Morello, will probably prove as hardy as 



THE CHERRY. 325 

the common Morello ; while Downer's Late, Kirtland's 
Mary, Gov. Wood and Rockport Bigarrean, are American 
seedlings, and with the Black Heart, are likely to suc- 
ceed as well as the Elton, Time of ripening can be given 
only of the Elton and May Duke. The Duke and Mo- 
rello cherries are the hardiest in our climate. 

May Duke. — Fruit, roundish, medial size and in clusters ; 
skin lively red at first, dark red when ripe. Flesh, red- 
dish, tender, melting, very juicy, rich and excellent when 
fully ripe. Ripens early in May. The best for this climate. 

Doctor. — A heart cherry, small, roundish, heart-shape, 
distinct suture, bright yellow and red blended and mot- 
tled. Flesh, white, tender and juicy, with a sweet de- 
lightful flavor. Worthy of trial here. 

Rcckjiort Bigarrean. — Very large, heart-shaped ; color, 
deep red on amber ground; flesh, yellowish, fine, juicy, 
with a sweet, rich flavor. 

Elton. — Y^Yj large ; acute, heart-shaped ; skin, thin, 
pale yellow, with a cheek mottled with bright red ; stalk, 
long and slender ; flesh, firm at first, becoming tender, juicy, 
with a rich, luscious flavor. Has produced good crops 
here, in a northern exposure, the past two seasons 
(1852-3). Ripens May 10th to 20th. 

Kentish. — Fruit, small to medium, round, a little flat- 
tened, borne in pairs ; skin, fine bright red, growing- 
dark when fully ripe ; stalk, one and a fourth inches long, 
stoutly set in pretty deep hollow ; flesh, melting, juicy 
and of a rich, acid, sprightly flavor. A hardy sort and 
excellent for cooking, &c. 

Late Kentish. — Resembles the above, but is two weeks 
later, a little larger and excellent for cooking, preserving, 
and drying. 

Kirtland's Mary. — ^Very large, roundish heart-shaped, 



826 GARDENING FOli THE SOUTH. 

light and dark red marbled on a yellow ground ; stalk, 
moderate size ; flesh, light yellow, half tender, rich, juicy, 
with a sweet, high flavor. 

Black Heart. — Large, heart-shaped ; skin, glossy, dark 
purple, changing to black when ripe ; stalk, one inch and 
a half long, in a moderate cavity ; flesh, half tender, be- 
coming, when ripe, tender and juicy, with a rich, sweet 
flavor. A large, hardy tree. 

Doivncrs Late. — Fruit medium, roundish, heart-shaped, 
inclining to oval ; skin smooth, of a soft but lively red, 
mottled with amber in the shade; stalk in a slight depres- 
sion ; fruit borne thickly in clusters ; flesh tender, 
melting, with a sweet, luscious flavor. Tree grows Avell 
with me ; has not borne yet. 

Bell Magnijique. — A large, red cherry, rather acid, ten- 
der, juicy, and rich ; fine for cooking and for the table, 
when fully ripe. Tree of slow growth, but bears pro- 
fusely. 

Reine Uortense. — A new, French cherry, of great excel- 
lence ; large, bright red, tender, juicy, nearly sweet, and 
delicious; tree vigorous ; bears well. Has fruited since 
the above was written. Excellent. 

English Morello. — Tolerably large, roundish, nearly 
black ; flesh reddish jDurple, tender, juicy, of a pleasant 
sub-acid flavor. (The common Morello of this country is 
a smaller and inferior variety of the foregoing. Ripens 
May 25th.) 

Plumstcne Morello. — Large, dark red, rich, and fine ; the 
best of all the Morellos. Tree of slender, slow growth. 

Most of the above have fruited at Pomaria, S. C, and 
have proved excellent. See Southern Agriatltiirist, May, 
1853. 



THE ORANGE. 327 

Citrus — The Orange Family. 
Citrus Aurantimn — The Orange. 

The orange is a native of Asia. The rich, golden fruit 
displayed among its dark, evergreen foliage, renders it the 
most beautiful of fruit trees. The tree usually rises 
twenty-five or thirty feet, with a round, symmetrical 
head, the bark of the trunk being an ashy gray, while that 
of the twigs is a soft green. The leaves are of a fine, 
healthy, shining green ; its blossoms are delicately fra- 
grant, with an aroma that never satiates or offends ; and 
as the tree is in all stages of bearing at one and the same 
time in flower and in golden fruit, nothing can surpass an 
orange grove in the combination of attractions. 

Wild or bitter oranges are found in the various parts of 
Florida, as far north as 28^. Where they are found, a 
good soil is indicated. It may have originated from the 
Seville orange, introduced by the Spaniards. The orange 
is considerably cultivated in Florida, and somewhat on the 
sea-coast of Carolina and Georgia. 

It has been analyzed by Rowny and How. Like other 
fruit trees, it requires a soil well supplied with lime, 
potash, and the phosphates. 





ROOT. 


STFJI. 


LEAVES. 


FRUIT. 


SEKD. 


Potassa, . 


15.43 


11.69 


16.51 


36.42 


40.28 


Soda, . 


4.52 


3.07 


1.68 


11.42 


0.92 


Lime, 


49.89 


55.13 


56.38 


24.52 


18.97 


Magnesia, . 


6.91 


6.34 


5.72 


8.06 


8.74 


Sesquioxide of Iron, 


1.02 


0.57 


0.52 


0.46 


0.80 


Sulphuric Acid, 


5.78 


4.64 


4.43 


3.74 


5.10 


Silicic Acid, 


1.75 


1.22 


4.83 


0.44 


1.13 


Phosphoric Acid, 


13.47 


17.09 


3.27 


11.07 


23.24 


Chloride of Sodium; 


1.18 


0.25 


6.66 


3.87 


0.82 



199.95 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 
Per-centageof ash, 4.48 2.74 13.73 3.94 3.30 



328 GARr>KN"[N"G FOR THE SOUTH. 

The orange seems to demand a calcareous soil. Lime 
would, doubtless, prove a beneficial application in most 
localities. 

The best soil for the orange is a deep, fertile loam. The 
seeds of the wild orange give the hardiest stock. They 
should be sown early in spring, and may be budded the 
same season, or early in the next. They may also be 
whip-grafted in the spring, just before the time the sap 
comes into brisk motion. The hardiest kinds should be 
selected for open air culture. 

The scale insect (Coccus Hisperidwn) and others have, 
of late years, proved a formidable enemy to the extended 
culture of the orange. The female insects, in spring, are 
found in a lifeless state, from which the eggs being hatched 
by the warmth of the season, the young insects crawl forth, 
puncturing the tender shoots and leaves, and sucking their 
sap; they gradually increase in size, and in about eight 
days permanently attach themselves to the trunk and 
branches to undergo their transformations. During the 
summer, all the 3^oung leaves and branches become rapidly 
and successively covered with the scales of these insects, 
of which there are successive generations during the sea- 
son. In the green-house, this insect is kept down by a 
strong tobacco wash, heated to the temperature of 100 de- 
grees Fahrenheit, and applied to the whole affected sur- 
face. The warm liquid irritates the insect, so that it looses 
its hold, permitting the fluid to enter between it and the 
bark, b}' which means it is destroyed. Applied at ordi- 
nary temperatures, tobacco water has no effect.* To be of 
much benefit, the application must be universal. 

Varieties. — There are about forty sorts of oranges culti- 
vated, of two principal classes, viz., the Sweet or China 
Orange, and the Bitter, Seville or Wild Orange. The latter 
» Burst. 



THE ORANGE. 829 

class is much tlie most hardy, but is of no value as a des- 
sert fruit. The}" are used in cooking, and for flavoring 
liquors. 

Of the SAveet Oranges, the Maltese has a thick and 
spongy rind, pulp red and delicious, but with sometimes a 
trace of bitterness. The glands which secrete the oil are 
prominent. 

St, Michael's. — Small, with thin smooth rind, and small 
glands; pulp, light colored and, of a luscious, sugary taste ; 
often seedless. The most delicious of all oranges. 

MaTidarin is a small flattened fruit, with a thin rind 
parting freely from the pulp, frequently separating of 
itself; pulp, dark orange, juicy and rich. 

The Havana, or common sweet orange, is a well known 
fruit, of good size, and moderately rough rind ; pulp well 
filled with delicious juice. 

The St. Augustine Orangesy are a large variety of the 
Havana, much better than those brought from Cuba. 

Bergamot. — Has small flowers and pear-shaped fruit. 
The leaves, fruit, and flowers are all very fragi-anl, and 
much used by perfumers. 

The following varieties of the orange tribe are cultivated 
in the same manner. 

Citrus Limonum (The Lemon). — Is cultivated like the 
orange, but has longer, lighter, colored leaves, with naked 
footstalks ; flowers tinged with red, externally ; fruit, 
pale yellow, oblong, with a swollen point, and an acid 
pulp. Used mostly for flavoring and preparing lemonade, 
and other cooling drinks. 

Citrus Limetta (The Lime). — Has smaller flowers than 
the lemon, which are white, and small, roundish, pale 
yellow fruit, with a slight protuberance at the end. The 
fruit is acid, and used for the same purposes as the lemon. 
The green fruit makes a delicate preserve. 



330 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

C. Medica (The Citron), lias large, oblong, wingless 
leaves, and flowers tinged with purple without. The fruit is 
lemon-shaped, but larger, with warts and furrows. Rind, 
thick and fragrant ; pulp, sub-acid. Chiefly used for 
preserves. 

C. Decumana, or Shaddoclc, has leaves winged like the 
orange ; flowers, white ; fruit, globular and very large, 
weighing often six or eight pounds ; rind very thick ; pulp, 
sweetish or sub-acid, but not very desirable, except for its 
showy appearance. 

Cydonia Communis — Quince. 

The quince is a small hardy tree, seldom growing over 
twelve or fifteen feet high, thickly branched, with roundish 
or ovate leaves, whitish underneath, on short petioles ; the 
flowers which open late are white, or pale pink ; and the 
fruit appears on shoots of the same years growth, vary- 
ing in shape, but having a general resemblance to the 
apple and pear. It is when ripe, highly fragrant, and of 
a fine golden yellow, making the tree quite ornamental. 

Quinces are seldom eaten raw ; but for stewing, preserv- 
ing, marmalades, or in pies and tarts along with apples, 
they are much esteemed. They are, also dried for winter 
use, giving an excellent flavor to dried apples and peaches. 
For these purposes the quince has been long in cultivation, 
having been in great esteem by the Greeks and Romans. 
The mucilage from the seeds was formerly used in 
medicine, instead of gum-water. The juice is cooling, 
astringent and stomachic. 

The quince is propagated from seed, layers, slips, or 
cuttings. The latter planted in autumn, in a shady situa- 
tion, very seldom fail, and are not as liable to throw out 
suckers as those raised from suckers and slips. Quinces 
generally produce the same from seed, but occasionally vary. 



THE QUINCE. 881 

Quince stocks are very much used for budding and 
grafting tlie pear, for wliicli the Angers Quince is pre- 
ferable, being easily raised from cuttings or layers. The 
other kinds are of less vigorous groAvth, and more short- 
lived. I have not been able to find an analysis of the 
quince. A large amount of soda and chlorine, will pro- 
bably be the chief difference between it and those of the 
apple and pear. 

The quince likes a deep, light, moist soil, and a cool ex- 
posure, growing naturally on the banks of streams. It 
will, however, succeed in a rich, deep, dry soil ; trenching 
will afford a due supply of moisture. No tree is more 
benefited by manuring, especially with vegetable matters. 
Salt is a very beneficial application every winter — minis- 
tering to the growth of the tree directly, and by keeping 
the soil always moist. If applied occasionally during the 
summer, in small doses, at a distance from the stem, the 
fruit will not drop. It will bear an application annually 
of t«n bushels per acre. Plant the trees ten feet apart. 

The quince is slightly subject to the blight, like the 
pear and apple, and is also attacked by the borer, which 
infests the apple ; the blighted branches must be cut off 
and burned as with the pear. The borer must be dug out 
as directed under the head of Insects. 

In training, the best fruit is obtained from those trained 
in tree form ; but on account of the borer, it is best to use 
the bush form, with three or four main stems (not more), 
so if one is destroyed, there are others left to take its 
place. Thus trained, the bush should be pruned moder- 
ately open, or the fruit will be inferior. If there is an 
over-crop, the fruit must be thinned. Trees will com- 
mence bearing in two or three years. 

Varieties. — Apple-shaped, or Orange. This is the com- 
mon variety, with large roundish, or apple-shaped fruit, 



S32 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

witli a short neck ; skin light, golden yellow ; flesh firm, 
but stewing tender ; leaves oval, shoots slender. It bears 
abundantly. Earlier than the other sorts. 

Pear-shaj^ed. — Fruit of larger size, pyriform ; oblong, 
tapering to the stalk ; skin, yellow ; flesh of firmer tex- 
ture, when preserved, and not quite so good in flavor and 
color as the foregoing ; fruit ripens a fortnight later, and 
when picked, keeps much longer ; leaves, oblong, ovate. 
'Tree of more vigorous growth, but does not bear so well. 

Portugal ( Cydonia lusitanica). — Fruit still more oblong, 
of lighter color, milder flavor, and better quality than the 
preceding kinds; leaf, larger and broader; shoots stouter; 
ripens between the other two ; a shy bearer. Pretty 
good as a stock for the pear. Tree larger than the other 
varieties. 

Angers. — A variety of the last, the strongest grower of 
all the quinces, and best for pear stocks. The fruit is 
said to be larger and better than any other kind. 

The Chinese and Japan quinces are fine ornamental 
shrubs. 

Ficus Carica — FiG. 

The fig is a large shrub, or a low spreading tree — some 
varieties growing to the height of twenty-five, or thirty 
feet, in favorable circumstances ; but it does not generally 
reach over half this height. The leaves are large, cordate, 
and deeply cut, from three to five lobed, thick, and pubes- 
cent beneath. The blossoms are not apparent, but con- 
cealed in the inside of the fleshy receptacle that becomes 
the fruit ; which consists of a pulp, containing numerous 
pericarps enclosed in a rind, various colored in the dif- 
ferent varieties. Though the flavor at first is too sweet and 
luscious for most unaccustomed tastes, it soon becomes a 
great favorite, and is perhaps the most wholesome and 
nutritious of all fruits. 



THE FIG. 333 

The fig is a native of Asia and Africa, and has been 
cultivated from the earliest times. It is perfectly at home 
in all the low country and middle portions of the South, 
and as universally cultivated below the mountain section 
as the peach itself. 

Large quantities of dried figs are imported into the 
United States, and even sold in our midst. These at a 
yery little expense could be put up at home and exported 
at a profit. A good way to dry them, is to gather them 
dead ripe ; when dry, boil them in a preserving kettle in 
a syrup of nice sugar, about five minutes. Take then out, 
drain them dry in a brick oven, after the bread is with- 
drawn, or in a kiln made for drying fruits ; when dry, 
they can be put away in drums or boxes. 

Imported figs are dipped in a hot lye made of fig ashes, 
and dried on hurdles in the sun. When sun-dried here, 
they are apt to be infested with insects. The fig is worth 
culture for feeding fowls, pigs, &c. 

The fig is readily propagated by cuttings either of the 
shoots or roots, planted in the fall or spring. Suckers also 
can be taken off the old plants, or layers made. Cuttings 
should be eight or ten inches long, and include half an 
inch of old wood at the base of each. Planted in hot beds 
in January, they will form handsome plants the same 
season. 

Figs should be set out twelve or fifteen feet apart, and 
the winter after planting, they may be cut nearly to the 
ground. The next year, they will throw up vigorous 
shoots, of which one or more may be retained, and the rest 
rubbed off. The Celestial Fig is best trained as a low 
tree. 

Analysis. — The following analysis of the ashes of the 
fruit of the fig is by Richardson. I have met with none 
of the tree itself : — 



334 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



Potassa, 


. 28.36 


Soda, 


24.14 


Lime, 


. 18.91 


Magnesia, . ... 


9.11 


Sulpliuric Acid, 


. 6.73 


SilicAcid, 


5.93 


Phosphate of Sesquioxide of Iron, . 


2.76 


Chloride of Sodium, 


4.02 



100.06 

The best soil for the fig is a mellow loam, of a calcareous 
nature. Ashes, marl, or composts, prepared with mild 
lime, form the best manure. If the soil is too moist, the 
fig continues its growth too late in the season, when the 
new wood is killed by the frost. While young, it is best to 
protect the tree during winter with evergreens. I have 
found young trees will mature their fruit and wood much 
more perfectly, and better endure the winter, if the young 
shoots are broken off at the tips, and if all fruit forming 
after that is removed, and no more growth permitted, after 
the middle of September. As a general rule, however, 
with the fig, *' the more you prune, the less your crop." 
This, however, does not apply to root pruning. If from 
too rank growth of wood the tree drops its fruit, cut off all 
the roots that project more than half the length of the 
branches at any time during the winter. Hoot pruning 
can also be applied with success to the pear or any other fruit 
tree, rendered unfruitful by too luxuriant growth of wood. 

The nomenclature of figs is still very uncertain, few 
being described with minuteness and accuracy. The 
names of several of our common varieties do not appear in 
the books ; or they are there so imperfectly described, that 
we do not recognise them. 

Brunswick. — Fruit very large, long, pyriform, with an 
oblique apex ; eye depressed ; stalk short and thick ; 



THE FIG. 335 

skin pale green, tinged with yellow in tlie shade ; dull, 
brownish red in the sun, sprinkled with pale brown specks; 
flesh reddish brown, pinkish at. the centre, semi-transpa- 
rent, rich, sweet, and high-flavored. If I have the true 
variety, the leaves are deeply cut, and generally seven- 
lobed. Wood of strong growth; very hardy; indispensable. 

Broicn Turkey. — Fruit large, oblong or pyriform ; skin 
dark brown, covered with a thick blue bloom ; flesh red 
and delicious ; said to be very hardy and prolific. May 
be our common blue variety. My tree, procured under 
this name, proves to be the Brunswick. 

Broicn Ischia — Fruit medium or large, roundish, obovate; 
skin chestnut brown ; flesh purple, sweet and excellent ; 
five lobed, leaves broad. 

Small Brown Ischia. — Fruit small, pyriform, with a short 
footstalk ; skin light brown ; flesh inclining to purple ; high- 
flavored; leaves less divided than the other sorts. This 
and the Brown Turkey are generally considered the 
hardiest varieties. 

Black Genoa. — Fruit large, long, obovate, tapering to 
the stalk, which is slender; skin almost black, glossy, 
covered with purple bloom ; pulp bright red, of excellent 
flavor. Continuing to bear fruit abundantly until frost. 
Leaflets narrow, and leaf seven-lobed like the Brunsv/ick. 
Indispensable. 

Celestial. — Fruit quite small, pyriform ; stalk slender ; 
skin very thin, dark-colored, covered with purple bloom ; 
pulp light red, and of very delicious flavor. In dry weather, 
it hangs on the tree until it shrivels, improving in sweet- 
ness and flavor. Trees grow quite large, and are very 
productive, yielding constantly from July to October. 
Leaves five-lobed. May prove the Malta of Downing and 
others. As hardy as any variety cultivated, and probably 
the best. 



836 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

The Common Blue is rather inferior in flavor to tlie fore- 
going ; but it is very hardy and productive. Fruit large, 
oblong, bluish purple ; early, and produces tvvo crops. 

WHITE, YELLOW, OR GREEN 

Round TJ^iiie, Common White, Lemon Fig. f Figure 
Blanche Rondo.) — Fruit turbinate, flattened ; stalk short ; 
skin pale, yellowish green ; flesh white and sweet, not 
high-flavored. Ripens quite early ; is a good bearer. Its 
color renders it very valuable for preserves. 

White Genoa ( White Italian). — Fruit large, globular, 
a little lengthened to the stalk ; skin thin, yellowish when 
ripe ; pulp light red, and of sweet, delicious flavor. If 
protected, the fruit is the first to ripen. A good bearer 
here. Indispensable. 

Nerii. — Fruit small, roundish, obovate ; skin light, green- 
ish yellow ; pulp red, slightly acid, delicate, and rich. Has 
borne here some years, and is a very nice little fig. 

Pregussatta. — This is really a colored fig; but being 
omitted in its place, I will describe it here, where it is usu- 
ally but incorrectly placed. Fruit medium, roundish, flat- 
tened; skin purplish brown in the shade, dark brown in 
the sun ; pulp deep red, high-flavored, and luscious. 

Alicante. — A very large and delicious purple fig, bear- 
ing early in the season abundantly, until frost, in the low 
country, but not suited to this latitude, as it is more ten- 
der than those described. 

Black Ischia and White Ischia are said to be good. The 
above list I know are. The White Marsailles, Gentile, 
and Yellow Ischia are worthless ; the first from inferior 
fruit — the others are poor bearers. 

Fragaria (of Species) — Strawberry. 
The strawberry is a well known small, creeping plant, 
with perennial roots, and generally ternate leaves. Its 



THE STKAWBERRY. 337 

botanical name is derived from the delightful fragrance of 
the ripe fruit. Its common name, strawberry, has arisen 
from the ancient practice of laying straw between the 
roots to keep the ground moist, and the fruit clean. This 
fruit is fragrant, delicious, and universally esteemed. The 
first offering of the season in the way of ripe fruit, nothing 
that comes after can excel ** a dish of ripe strawberries 
smothered in cream," or eaten fresh from the plant. It is, 
indeed, the most popular and wholesome of all tlie small 
fruits consisting of matter almost entirely soluble in the 
stomach, and neither there, nor when rotting in heaps, does 
it undergo the acetous fermentation. Hence, it is very 
wholesome, and may be safely eaten by gouty and rheu- 
matic persons. Besides its grateful flavor, the subacid 
juice has a cooling quality, peculiarly acceptable in sum- 
mer. When taken in even large quantities, there are few 
constitutions with which they disagree ; and, indeed, they 
are positively salutary in cases of the gout and stone. 
They promote perspiration, and also remove the tartareous 
incrustation of the teeth. In addition to its excellence for 
the dessert, it is a favorite fruit for making jams, ices, jel- 
lies, and preserves. 

The English Wood strawberry was the first brought into 
cultivation. Says old Tusser: — 

' ' Wife, into the garden and set me a plot 
With strawberry plants the best to be got, 
Such growing abroad amid trees of the wood, 
Well chosen and picked, prove excellent good." 

Turning over its cultivation to the ladies, as beneath his 
attention. 

The best varieties now cultivated have originated from 
the Scarlets and Pirns, which are natives of America. 
Plants taken directly from the field into the garden yield 
15 



338 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



at once a tolerable crop. This climate is well adapted to 
the culture of this fruit ; since by giving the plants a due 
supply of moisture, fruit can be gathered the greater part 
of the year. The great strawberry market of the world is 
Cincinnati, where over five thousand bushels have been 
sold in one season. But Mr. Peabody, of Columbus, in 
this State, is probably the most successful of strawberry 
growers, having fruit in the open ground sometimes nine 
months in the year. 




a, STAMI.VATE. 



b, PISTILLATE. 



.C, HERMAPHRODITE. 



In its natural state, the strawberry generally produces 
perfect or hermaphrodite blossoms. The hermaphrodite 
are those which have both the stamens perfect, and the 
pistils so well developed, as to produce a tolerably fair 
crop of fruit. Cultivation has so affected the strawberry, 
in this respect, that there are now three classes of vaiie- 
ties : — 1st, Those in which the male or staminate organs 
are always perfect, like a, in the figure ; but the female or 
pistillate organs are so defective, that they Avill very rarely 
bear a perfect fruit. These are called staminate. 2d. 
Those in which the female or pistillate organs are perfect, 
(see h, in figure,) but in which the male organs are gener- 
ally so defective that they cannot produce fruit at all, un- 
less in the neighborhood of, and fertilized by staminate or 
hermaphrodite plants. Impregnated by these, they bear 
enormous crops. These are pistillate. 3d. (See figure c.) 
Those, like the native varieties, which are true herma- 
phrodites, that is, they are perfect in stamens, and more 



ANALYSIS OF THE STRAWBERRY. 339 

or less perfect in pistils, so that they generally produce 
a tolerable crop, and in favorable seasons, the pistils being 
fully developed, they Avill produce a good one. This is 
the stavdnate class of the looks. The first of these classes, 
the staminate, rarely producing fruit, and running exuber- 
antly to vine, should be dug up wherever they are found, 
since the hermaphrodite are productive, and equally use- 
ful for fertilizing. It is to the pistillate varieties, fertilized 
by the hermaphrodite, that we must look for large crops 
of fruit. 

In beds of each of these varieties, seedlings will spring 
up, differing from the parents ; but runners from any va- 
riety, will always produce flowers of the same class, and 
similar in all respects to the parent plant. By the due 
admixture of hermaphrodite and pistillate plants, five 
thousand quarts have been picked from an acre at Cincin- 
nati, where the strawberry season is usually less than a 
month. 

Analysis. — The strawberry has been analyzed by Rich- 



ardson : — 








FRUIT. 


PLANT. 


Potassa, . . . . 


21.07 


38.65 


Soda, .... 


27.01 


9.27 


Lime, . . . , . 


14.21 


12.20 


Magnesia, .... 


trace 


5.85 


Sulphuric Acid, 


3.15 


5.89 


Silicic "... 


12.05 


2.58 


Phosphoric *' 


8.59 


15.58 


Phos. of Sesquioxide of Iron, 


11.12 


8.65 


Chloride of Sodium, 


2.78 


1.23 




99.98 


99.93 


Per-centasre of ash, 


0.41 


0.39 



Potash, soda, and phosphoric acid are the elements most 
likely to be wanting. Wood ashes and the carbonates of 
potash and soda, prove very beneficial applications. The 



340 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

good effects of applving the phosphates or lime, has not 
been so apparent, perhaps, owing to there being enough 
already in the soil. 

Propagation and Culture. — To raise the strawberry in 
perfection, requires good varieties, a proper location, care- 
ful cultivation, vegetable manure, mulching the roots, and 
regular watering. 

We sliall notice the varieties hereafter. The straw- 
berry bed should be situated in the lowest part of the gar- 
den, succeeding best on a bottom near some little stream 
of water, where the soil is moist and cool. No trees or 
plants should be allowed to overshadow it, to drink up the 
moisture of the soil. New land is the best and the most 
easily kept free from weeds. The soil should be dug at 
least two spades deep, to enable the plants better to with- 
stand drouglit. It is not required to be rich, unless with 
decayed vegetable matter, as animal manures produce 
only a growth of vine. 

If the soil is poor, give it a thick coat of sv/amp muck ; 
or wood's earth, and leached or unleached ashes, which 
must be turned under. After the soil is prepared and 
levelled, mark off your rows two feet apart. Plant there- 
on, selecting the young, healthy runners from old stocks, 
three rows of pistillates, then a path, then a row of a good 
hermaphrodites, another path, and then six rows of pistil- 
lates, and so on until the ground is planted. Let the 
plants be fifteen or eighteen inches asunder. Choose 
damp weather for the operation of transplanting. The 
roots of the plant must be well spread out just as they 
grow ; when transplanted, set them firmly and wash them 
in with water like sweet potato slips, if the ground is not 
moist. Cover the space between the plants, but not the 
plants themselves, with a thin mulching of partially de- 
composed leaves, straw, or decayed tan — the latter is ex- 



THR STRAWBERRY. 841 

cellent. As the runners appear, unless desired to make 
new beds, tliey should be cut off — not pulled, which dis- 
turbs the roots. As soon as the blossoms begin to appear, 
the great necessity is water. Unless it rains twice a 
week, give water by hand, water to swell the fruit, and 
water to form new fruit stems. In this way, Mr. Pea- 
body has crops of Hovey's Seedling, from March until 
hard frosts. Kill all grass and weeds as fast as they ap- 
pear, with the hoe. After the plants have done fruiting, 
let the beds remain until winter, when they should be 
well hoed, thinned out to twelve or eighteen inches in the 
row, the cut-up vines dug in, and a new coat of leaves, 
straw, muck or decayed tan given the whole bed, except 
the crowns of the plants. Keep the proportion of male 
and female plants, the same as when planted. A very 
easy vray to get a good spring crop is by cultivating in 
alternate strips. Prepare your soil as before., strike out 
the rows three feet apart, and plant eighteen inches apart 
in the row, giving a due proportion of the different sexes 
as before ; let these runners fill up every alternate section 
of three feet, keeping the other bare, by destroying all 
runners, and the whole patch free from weeds. The strips 
of runners will give a heavy crop of fruit, and the open 
strip will serve for a path while gathering them. After 
the fruit season is over, dig and prepare this alley for the 
occupation of new runners for the next crop-; dig in plenty 
of decayed tan, swamp-earth, or leaf-mould, trench two 
spades deep. The runners from adjacent vines will soon 
cover this strip. The plants will need thinning in order 
to be evenly distributed. When the strips are well cov- 
ered, which they will be by August, dig under the old 
plants, and add a light coat of manure. Here a crop of 
turnips or spinach may be raised and removed before the 
next fruit season. By thus changing each season the 



842 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

strips occupied by tlie plants, the same plot of ground 
will remain productive many years. To produce supe- 
rior crops, in this mode as well as the former, liberal water- 
ing is required. 

Varieties. — As the season of this fruit, with the ex- 
ception of Large Early Scarlet and Hovey's Seedling, is 
very short, but few varieties are required. Having tried 
Hovey's Seedling, Boston Pine, Hudson, Burr's New Pine, 
Moyamensing, Eival Hudson, Black Prince, Cuthill's Black 
Prince, Bishop's Orange, Longworth's Prolific, British 
Queen, McAvoy's Superior, Walker's Seedling, Buist's 
Prize, English Red, White Wood, and several others. Of 
these I have selected for my own grounds the following 
rarieties, as decidedly the most desirable : — 

Large Early Scarlet. — An American variety. Fruit 
pretty large, roundish, ovate, regular, light scarlet, seeds 
deeply imbedded ; flesh tender, and of a rich excellent 
flavor, leaves broad, deep green, flowers large and perfect. 
The most valuable Hermaphrodite variety. It will stand 
dry weather better than most varieties ; bears well ; in a 
bed of pistillates it is easily distinguished by its foliage. 

Bishop^s Orange. — Fruit light scarlet, somewhat ap- 
proaching orange, of large size ; shape conical, regular, 
borne in large clusters lying on the surface; flesh firm 
and of high flavor. A fine bearer and a favorite with me, 
requires but little care. In flavor, excellent ; flowers 
pistillate. 

Hovey^s Seedling. — When we consider the size, flavor, 
and its habit of long-continued bearing where well cul- 
tivated, this is the finest of strawberries. Like all the 
pistillate varieties, it needs a fertilizer. It is the best 
market strawberry known, and when fully ripened, it is 
excelled in flavor by few varieties. Leaves large, bright 
green, foot-stalks long and erect ; fruit very large, round- 



THE STRAWBERRY 3^3 

isb, oval or sliglitly conical, deep sliining scarlet, seeds 
slightly imbedded ; flesh firm, with a rich agreeable flavor, 
nearly equal to Bishop's Orange. Pistillate, originated by 
C. M. Hovey, of Boston. 

Burros New Pine. — Large light orange scarlet, always 
of the highest and most delicious flavor. With me it often 
shows fruit most of the season ; but so far it is not sufiici- 
ently productive, and it lacks the hardiness of the forego- 
ing varieties. Plants seem to be easily killed by extremes 
of heat or cold. The hardiness and productiveness of 
Hovey's Seedling would render this the most desirable 
of strawberries. Needs further trial. 

McAvoy's Superior. — This won a prize of $100 at Cin- 
cinnati, as the best pistillate variety for size, flavor, and 
fruitfulness. Leaf dark green, serrate ; foot-stalk long, 
trusses of fruit, full ; berry large of rich dark color, irregular, 
roundish conical, seeds large slightly sunk ; flesh crimson 
and white, tender and juicy, core of rather open, coarse 
texture, too soft for market. With me not as desirable as 
Hovey or Moyamensing. 

Moyamensing. — Fruit rather large, roundish, conical, 
deep crimson ; seeds crimson set in rather deep depressions, 
with rounded intervals ; flesh red, flower very fine, qual- 
ity "best," pistillate; leaf large with creuate serratures. 
This is first rate with me in every respect, a capital mar- 
ket fruit from its firm texture. 

Of these the first, second, third, and sixth, are most 
desirable. Walker's Seedling, a staminate variety, pro- 
mises well. McAvoy's Extra Red will probably prove a 
good market fruit. Boston Pine occasionally bears well, 
and is of excellent quality. Orescent Seedling proves here 
nothing remarkable. Longworth's Prolific I have tried 
but one season, when it did not do very well, but may 
prove a good sort. 



344 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Moms — Mulberry. 

This genus includes two species worthy of cultivation 
on account of tlieir fruit, both hardy deciduous trees, rip- 
ening their berries in May, with the later strawberries. 
The fruit is of very agreeable flavor, and of abundant sub- 
acid juice. It is cooling, laxative, and wholesome for, 
like the strawberry, it does not undergo the acetous fer- 
mentation. An agreeable wine may be made of the juice. 

All the species of the mulberry are of the easiest culture, 
and are generally propagated by cuttings of the branches or 
roots. The former should be shoots of the last season, 
having one joint of old Avood ; they may be three feet 
long, and buried half their depth in the soil. The tree 
requires little or no pruning. The soil should be a rich, 
deep, sandy loam. The fruit falls when ripe, hence, when 
the tree commences bearing, the surface below should be 
kept in short turf, that the fruit may be pickled from the 
clean grass. The black mulberry, morus nigra, is a na- 
tive of Persia, and is a slow-growing, low-branched tree, 
with large, tough leaves, often five-lobed, producing large 
and delicious fruit, frequently an inch and a half long, 
and an inch across ; black and fine-flavored. Tree a very 
poor grower. 

Morus Ruha. — Is a native of our woods ; leaves large, 
rough, and generally heart-shaped ; fruit an inch long, 
sweet and pleasant, but much inferior to the last. The 
vigorous growth and fine spreading head of this species, 
makes it deserving of culture as an ornamental tree. If 
the cherry is planted near the house, and the mulberry a 
little more remote, the latter willoften attract the birds 
from the more valuable fruit. There is an everbearing 
A^ariety of this, very desirable for aflbrding a succession 
of fruit until frost. Mr. Charles Downing has also another 
variety, said to be nearly equal to the black in flavor. 



AN.A LYSIS OF THE OLIVE. 845 

The varieties of the wliite mulberry produce fruit of no 
value, and are only cultivated for tlie silk worm. 

Oka, Euro'pca — Olive. 

The olive is a low, branching evergreen tree, rising to 
the height of tAventy or thirty feet, with stiff, narrow, 
bluish-green leaves. The fruit is a berried drupe, of ob- 
long, spheroidal form ; hard, thick flesh, of a yellowish- 
green color, turning black when ripe. The tree is a 
native of Greece and the sea-coast ridges of Asia and 
Africa ; it has been cultivated from time immemorial for 
the oil expressed from its ripe fruit. Where cultivated, 
it answers all the purposes of cream and butter, and en- 
ters into every kind of cookery. Unripe olives are much 
used as pickles, which, though distasteful at first, to most 
persons, become by custom exceedingly grateful, promot- 
ing digestion and increasing appetite. The ripe olive is 
crushed to a paste, when the oil is expressed through 
coarse, hempen bags into hot water, from which the pure 
oil is skimmed off. If the stone is crushed, the oil is infe- 
rior. 

Muller has analysed the various parts of the olive tree : 

WOOD LEAVES. FRl'IT 

Potassa, . \ 20.60 24.81 54.03 

Lime, . . . 63.02 56.18 15.72 

Magnesia, . . .2.31 5.18 4.38 

Sulphuric Acid, . 3.09 3.01 1.19 

Silica, . . . 3.82 3.75 5.58 

Phosphoric '' . . 4.77 3.24 7.30 

Phos. ofSesquioxide ^ . oq i q7 <r,9A 

of Iron, ) ■ 

Chloride of Potassium, 1.00 2.76 9.56 



100.00 100.00 100.00 

Per-centageofAshin) ^_^g ^^^^ 

the dry substance ) 

Per-centage of Ash ui\ ^qi 

the fresh substance, ) 
15* 



846 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Lime and potash arc the chief sorts the olive requires 
in the soil. 

Propagation and Culture. — Olive plantations are gener- 
ally formed from the rooted suckers which rise abund- 
antly from the roots of old trees. It also grows readily 
from cuttings and seeds. Knots and tumors form on the 
bark of the trunk, which, being removed with a knife, nre 
planted like bulbs, an inch or two deep, when they take 
root and become new trees. The cultivated olive may, 
perhaps, also be grafted on our Oleci Americana, or Devil 
Wcod, which abounds on the seacoast. The best trees 
are from seedlings, which commence bearing in five or six 
years, but are not remunerative until ten or twelve years 
old. The trees produce about fifteen or twenty pounds 
of oil per year, and their longevity is greater than any 
other fruit tree. The olive is hardier than the orange, but 
is most hardy and prolific when grown on a dry calcareous 
sandy or rocky situation. Such situations on the steep 
cliffs of the Mediterranean, planted with olives in the dry 
crevices of the rock, aflbrd abundant and prolific crops. 
It grows more luxuriantly in strong, rich, clayey loam; 
but in such situations will not endure so great an extreme 
of cold. The dry limestone soils of Florida would proba- 
bly become exceedingly valuable if planted with the olive. 
It should be tried wherever the orange will survive the 
winter. In planting, the trees are usually set thirty-five 
or forty feet apart. 

Varieties. — Of the many varieties of the catalogues, 
the following are described in the French *' Bon Jardi- 
nier," as the hardiest and best. 

Olea Angidosa. — A hardy variety with scanty foliage ; 
fruit reddish, with a long stem. It is preserved in some 
places. " Oil of medium quality," says Gouan, but very 
good according to others. 



THE PLUM. 347 

Oka Amygdalina. — The variety most commonly cultl- 
vated. Fruit almond-shaped ; it is often pickled. Its oil 
is very sweet. 

Olea Cranimorpha,OY Weeping Olive. — The largest and 
finest tree of the genera ; branches bending towards tlie 
earth ; very productive ; fruit small, crooked, pointed, 
very black; stone sharp at both ends; excellent; oil piue 
and abundant. 

Olea SfhcBrici. — Fruit more round than any other va- 
riety. Oil delicate, and yield abundant. 

Oka Oblcnga ffrom Olivier Picolim). — Fruit best for 
pickling ; oil fine and sweet ; produced abundantly. Tree 
hardy. 

Prunus Doviestica, etc. — Plum. 

The plum-tree is probably a native of Asia, whence it 
was early introduced into European gardens. The tree 
grows some fifteen feet high or more, and is conspicuous 
early in spring, with its white blossoms. London asserts, 
that it is probable that the natural color of the fruit is 
black ; but the cultivated varieties are of the various shades 
of green, yellow, red, and blue. It is a delicious dessert 
fruit in its best varieties, and is very much esteemed for 
pies, tarts, and preserves. It is also dried for winter use. 
The prune or dried plum, enters considerably into com- 
merce. When fully ripe ; and the plum should always be 
allowed to become perfectly matured before eating ; they 
are, in moderate quantity, very nutritious and wholesome ; 
but in an unripe state, are more apt to disagree with the 
stomach than most other fruits, producing cholic, diarrhoea, 
and cholera morbus. Medicinally, they are emollient, 
cooling, and laxative ; and, especially in the case of French 
prunes, are useful for persons of costive habits. 

Prunes are generally dried by artificial heat. They are 



848 



GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



laid singly, without toucliing each other, on plates which 
are placed in ovens after the bread is removed, or in kilns 
prepared for the purpose, and occasionally moved and 
turned. In order to have them fair and glossy, they must 
be suddenly cooled when taken from the oven. If deprived 
of their skin and stone, they are called prunettes — the 
stone is pressed out the stem end — the skin is taken out 
by pouring hot water over them. They should be dried 
carefully and gradually. They are also excellent when 
dried with sugar, as directed in the case of peaches. 

The following analysis of the plum is by Salisbury : — 



Per-eentag-e water, . . . 
Per-centage drj^-wood, 
Per-ceutage ash, 



Proportions. 



Bark ol WooU oi Bark oi Wood of 
Root. Root, Limbfs. Limbs. 



48.51 

51.49 

3.12 



44.64 

55.36 

24 



27.50 

72.50 

4.37 



20.23 

79.67 

0.38 







Analysis. 








Plum 


Bark ot 


Wood ot 


Bark ot 


Wood of 




Pits* 


Root. 


Root. 


Limbs. 


Limbs. 


Potash, 


13.92 
10.08 

2.25 


9.86 

6.63 
4.22 


f 40.31 \ 
) 0.103 / 


8.59 

19,49 

1.03 


11 63 


Soda, 




Chloride of Sodium, 


0.18 


Sulphuric Acid, 


6.11 


5.22 


4.64 


4.09 


20.34 


Carbonic Acid, 












Lime, , 


23.30 
4.80 


22.74 
0.98 


0.17 
0.20 


39.42 
3.76 


8.12 


Magnesia 


6.56 


Phosph, Perox. of Iron, ] 




( 6.90 


1.20 


2.30 


0.60 


Phosphate of Lime >■ 


8.00 


\ 7.62 


31.98 


7.50 


24.99 


Pliosph. of Magnesia.... j 




3.28 


17-12 


trace 


1.16 


Organic matter, 


6.65 


1.76 


2.50 


1.40 


4.60 


Insoluble Silica, 


27.20 


21.40 


1.80 


8.40 


0.70 


Coal, 




3.60 


0.90 


.... 


1 60 








102.31 


9421 


100.923 


95.9s 


80.53 



The quantity of soda indicates the partiality of this tree 
for common salt. Like other fruit trees, lime, potash, and 
the phosphates are the chief special manures required. 



* This analysis was made with two grains of ash. 



THE PLUM. 849 

Altliongli the fjuantity of silica is large, the plum is de- 
cidedly better on a clayey soil. Any soil has sufficient 
silex to supply the wants of the plant, so far as its 
dements are concerned ; but silex is probably not available, 
unless ammonia is also present. Burnt clay, swamp muck, 
common salt, and wood-ashes are among the best fer- 
tilizers. 

Propagation and Culture. — The plum is generally bud- 
ded or grafted upon stocks raised from the seed of some 
free-growing variety. The Chickasaw plum, however, 
makes a very good stock. It should be grafted at the 
collar, and planted so deeply that the scions can also 
throw out roots. This stock makes very pretty dwarf 
trees for the garden. By this mode the tree can be propa- 
gated at any time during the winter months. Stone fruits 
require to be grafted before or during the first flow of sap. 
In transplanting to remain, plum trees should be twelve 
feet apart. The best soil for the plum is a heavy loam, 
moderately rich. In sandy soils the curculio is more prev- 
alent. The fruit, too, is of better quality in a heavy soil. 
In sandy soil clay should be applied to the surface. 

There are three obstacles that have to be overcome to 
raise the plum successfully. The first is the curculio, 
which infests all smooth-skinned stone-fruit. The only 
really satisfactory mode of dealing with this insect, is ad- 
mitting pigs and poultry into the fruit garden. It is better 
not to raise plums at all, unless measures are taken to 
destroy this insect; for, if allowed to increase, it will be- 
come so abundant that the peaches and apples will also be 
attacked. Another, and quite as serious a difficulty, is the 
rot. To prevent this, the varieties least subject to decay 
must be selected and planted with the roots not too deep, 
and the fruit should be so thinned upon the tree that no 
two touch each other. The third obstacle to plum culture 



850 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

is, happily, not very prevalent in tlie soutli. It is a black 
excrescence or tumor fi)iind growing upon the bark and 
young wood. The bark swells and bursts, and finally 
assumes the appearance of a " large, irregular lump, with 
a hard, cracked, uneven surface." The flow of sap is ob- 
structed by the tumor, and its poison is gradually dissem- 
inated over the whole tree. The dark-colored fruits are 
mostly infected. The disease also attacks the common 
Morello cherry. It appeared here, for the first time, in the 
year 1853, on a tree from the north. The tumor was very 
small, and contained a worm within. None have appeared 
since. 

The only remedy is to cut off every branch or twig that 
shows a tumor and burn it at once. Look over the trees 
at least twice a year, and remove and burn every affected 
branch. If on the large limbs, cut out the tumor deeply, 
and apply with a brush a solution of chloride of lime. 

As the plum is apt to throw out long straggling branches, 
which are unsightly and unproductive, these should be 
remedied by pinching, or shortening, so as to form a round 
handsome head. Most stone fruits require shortening in 
some degree, after the manner of the peach, or the growth 
becomes too straggling. 

Varieties. — Prunus Chicasa — Chickasaw Plum. 
A tree or two of both the red and yellow varieties of this 
our indigenous plum, should should be admitted into the 
garden. The fruit is much enlarged b}^ garden culture. 
Some trees produce much better fruit than others. Leaves 
lanceolate, more like the peach than the plumb ; branches 
thorny; fruit small ; skin either light, red, or yellow ; flesh 
yellow, very juicy and sweet; but somewhat astringent 
about the stone, to Avhicli it adheres. Ripe here 20th May ; 
lasts a month. Doubtless many excellent native varieties 



THE PLUM — VARIETIES. 351 

will be originated from this hardy native fruit. Some are 
now found almost entirely free from astringency. This 
plum seems free from curculio, and never fails of a crop. 

The following are varieties of prunus domcslica : — 

Sect or Early Purple. — E-Ipens the 8th of June, and is 
with us the earliest of cultivated plums. Fruit small, 
roundish ; skin brownish purple, with a scanty light-colored 
bloom ; flesh, greenish yellow, sweet, juicy, and parts 
freely from the stone ; highly perfumed. This nice little 
plum was, I believe, first introduced here by some grafts 
received from Germany. Has now borne some years ; 
maturing so early, it is one of the most valuable. I do not 
find any description in the books with which it coincides. 
It does not rot. 

'Prince's Yellow-Gage. — Fruit, medium size, broadest to- 
wards the stalk ; suture slight ; skin golden yellow, slight- 
ly clouded, and with copious white bloom ; stalk an inch 
long inserted in a small cavity ; flesh, deep yellow, sweet, 
iuicy, and fine-flavored; freestone; tree very productive. 
The fruit lasts a long time. One of the best for this 
climate ; ripe, June 10th. 

Columbia. — Ver}^ large, roundish ; skin brownish pur- 
ple, with fawn colored specks ; bloom, thick and blue ; 
stalk an inch long, stout, in a narrow cavity; flesh, orange, 
not very juicy, sugary, rich and excellent; free stone, ripe, 
June 20th. A magnificent variety of excellent quality. 
Tree hardy and sufficiently productive. 

Bingham. — Fruit, large, oval ; skin, deep yellow, spot- 
ted with rich red toward the sun ; stalk in a small cavity ; 
flesh, yellow, juicy, rich and delicious ; clingstone. Tree 
a fine grower and good bearer. Eipens July 1st. 

Elfrey. — Branches small ; fruit of less than medium 
size, oval ; skin, blue ; flesh, greenish, sweet, juicy and 
excellent ; freestone. In this climate the Elfrey is one 



352 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

of the most desirable plums. It generally escapes the 
curculio and the rot also, if properly thinned. Tree, 
thrifty and liardy. An indispensable variety. Ripe 
July 1st. 

Imperial Gage. — Fruit, above medium size, oval ; suture 
distinct, pale green, tinged with yellow, and marbled with 
dark green stripes, and covered with a copious white 
bloom ; stem an inch long, slightly sunk ; flesh, green- 
ish, melting, juicy, luscious, and almost too sugary; 
mostly freestone. Eipens July 1st. Matures gradually for 
a month — not much injured by curculio ; but rots consid- 
erably, unless the fruit is Avell thinned. A good bearer, 
and a fine hardy tree. 

Red Magnum Bcnum, or Purple Egg. — Large and be^i- 
tiful. Egg-shaped. Violet red, deeper in the sun, with 
small gray dots ; flesh, greenish, rather firm, juicy, and 
agreeably subacid ; freestone. A fair plum for the table, 
and makes the very best of preserves. Ripens July lOtb. 
Not much subject to rot. Indispensable. 

Blue Plum. — A native plum generally raised from suck- 
ers. Fruit, medium size, roundish, scarcely oval ; suture 
very obscure ; skin dark blue, with a fine light blue 
bloom ; stalk three- eighths of an inch long, inserted in a 
shallow cavity ; flesh, yellowish green juicy, sweet, and 
refreshing; adberes to the stone; shoots, smooth ; leaves, 
rather small. A very pleasant and agreeable plum, and 
the tree is a fine bearer. Does not rot. 

Jefferson. — Fruit, of the largest size, roundish, oval ; 
stalk, an inch long, pretty stout ; suture indistinct ; skin, 
golden yellow, purplish red towards the sun, and covered 
thinly with white bloom ; flesh, deep orange, a little 
dry, good, not equal to the description in the books. But 
as the tree bears abundantly, and the fruit ripens late, 
hangs long on the tree, and is totally free from decay, it 



THE POMEGRANATE. 353 

is indispensable. The handsomest of all plums. Ripens 
last of July or first of August, and lasts a long time. 

Besides the above, the St. Catharine, Italian Damask, 
Bleeker's Gage, and Duane's Purple, do well here, but 
are not equal to those described. Several varieties have 
been tried here and rejected. Those who wish a larger 
collection, can select from the following, viz. : Peach, 
Hudson's Gage, Imperial Ottoman, Green Gage, Law- 
rence's Favorite, Eed Gage, Purple Gage, Schenectady 
Catherine, Huling's Superb, Diapree Kouge, Purple Fa- 
vorite, Lombard, Coe's Golden Drop, Blue Imperatrice, 
Madison, Frost Gage, Ickworth Imperatrice and Reine 
Claude de Bavay — the latter has proved delicious this 
season (1855), and ripened Sept. 1. 

Punka Granatum — Pomegran ate. 

The Pomegranate is a low, deciduous tree, rising some 
twenty feet high, with tAviggy branches, armed with small 
thorns ; leaves long, narrow, of a glossy green color with 
red veins. The flowers are produced at the ends of the 
branches on the shoots of the same year, coming out either 
singly or three or four together, and are quite beautiful, 
especially the double-flowering varieties. The calyx is 
thick, fleshy, of a fine red color, crowned with petals of a 
bright scarlet. The fruit is a berry covered with a hard, 
coriaceous rind, of a deep yellow color, spotted with red 
and fine deep red next to the sun, beautifully crowned when 
ripe with the tube of the calyx. It ripens in September 
or October, remaining on the tree, uninjured, a long time. 

The Pomegranate is a native of China and Southern 
Europe, where it is sometimes used as a hedge plant. The 
tree is quite ornamental. The fruit has a very refreshing 
acid pulp ; and its singular and beautiful appearance ren- 



354 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

ders it a welcome addition to tlie dessert. It is also used 
medicinally in fevers, on account of its agreeable cooling- 
nature ; but it is not half as much cultivated as it deserves 
to be. It might be profitably exported to any extent. 

Propagation and Cullurc. — This tree is propagated from 
seeds, layers, suckers or cuttings ; also, by budding and 
grafting. Seeds must be sown as soon as they ripen. 
Any good soil will do for the pomegranate. It requires 
little pruning — only taking out some of the weaker shoots, 
shortening in or pinching those that are overgrown, to 
make them throw out new fruitful shoots all over the tree. 

The only varieties worth cultivating for the fruit are : 

1. The sweet-fruited pomegranate. — Pulp sweet, and 
juicy. 

2. The sub-acid-fruited pomegranate or common variety. 

3. The wild or acid-fruited pomegranate, of brisk, acid 
flavor — is used for making a nice syrup. 

Pyrus Communis. — Pear. 

The Pear is often found growing wild in hedges 
in various parts of Europe, China, and Western Asia. 
It is a thorny tree with upright branches, tending to 
the pyramidal form. The wild fruit is exceedingly 
harsh and astringent ; but no fruit Avhatever, is more deli- 
ciously sugary and melting than its best improved varie- 
ties. The pear was early brought into cultivation ; there 
were thirty -two varieties in Pliny's time, yet they were 
" but a heavy meat unless boiled or baked," and it was not 
before the 17th century that this fruit became really worthy 
of culture for the dessert. Indeed, Avithin the last fifty 
years, the majority of the best varieties have originated. 

The pear, under favorable circumstances, is a long-lived 
tree. The Endicott Pear tree, still living in Danvers, 



THE PEAR. 855 

Mass., was planted by Gov. Endicott, in 1628, or eight 
years after the landing of the Pilgrims. M. Bosc men- 
tions trees in Europe, which are known to he 400 years 
old. Even in this State, trees that were in full hearing 
thirty-seven years ago, are still healthy, vigorous, and 
productive. 

It will endure, in suitable soils, greater extremes of heat 
than the apple, succeeding well in latitudes too warm for 
the latter food to flourish. It is better adapted to our cli- 
mate than the apple, while in cold climates it succeeds as 
well. 

The pear is the most delicious of fruits for the dessert ; 
and in this latitude, by choosing proper varieties, we are 
able to have them ten or eleven months of the year. The 
finer kinds often sell in the cities for one or two dollars per 
dozen. It is also excellent for baking, preserves, and mar- 
malade. It may be dried like the apple and peach ; and 
with or without sugar, will keep for years. Perry is made 
from the juice, as cider from the apple. The wood is fine- 
grained and compact; and dyed black, is used for picture- 
frames, &c., instead of ebony. 

Dessert pears should have a sugary, aromatic juice, and 
a soft, melting, sub-liquid texture. Some few of a con- 
sistency, crisp, firm, or breaking, are very good. Pears 
for stewing or baking should be large, firm-fleshed, and 
moderately juicy. The harsh, austere kinds are thought 
best for perry. 

Gathering and Preserving the fruit. — Most varieties of the 
pear are much better if picked from the tree, before fully 
mature and ripened in the house. Indeed, some few kinds 
like the Heathcote, Bartlett, and Von Assene, will ripen 
well if gathered at any time after they are over half 
grown. When a few begin to turn yellow, and ripen on the 
tree, then gather the whole. Many of the most delicious 



S56 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

varieties, if allowed to ripen on the tree, become dry, insipid, 
second or third rate. They will also ripen more gradually, 
last longer, and are less liable to loss or injury if ripened 
in the house. It is said, however, few varieties do best to 
ripen on the tree. When gathered, some few kinds ripen 
more perfectly by exposing them to the light and air. 
Most of them, however, in kegs, or small boxes, or on the 
shelves of a cool, dark fruit room, each one separately en- 
veloped in absorbent paper or loose cotton. This is not 
necessary with the summer varieties. Pears, like apples, 
must be gathered by hand, with the same precaution, to 
prevent bruises, or they will soon decay. Winter Pears 
should hang as long as may be upon the tree. When it is 
time to ripen, bring them for a week or two from the fruit- 
room into a warm apartment, which will much improve 
their flavor. 

Propagation and Culture. — Pears are propagated by 
budding or graftiug on seedling pear stocks or on certain 
varieties of the quince. Suckej's should never be em- 
ployed for this purpose ; for they seldom have good roots 
and the trees are short-lived ; a great deal of prejudice 
exists against pear culture from this cause. Seedlings 
raised from the thrifty growing, indifferent fruits that are 
often cultivated about the country, are much more healthy 
than those raised from the improved varieties. 

Sow the seed thickly in Autumn, in drills eighteen 
inches apart. Let the soil be deep, rich loam. Ashes arc 
an excellent application to the seed-bed. The soil must 
be moist as on vigorous and continued growth the first 
season, much of the value of the stock depends. Take 
them up in November or December, shorten the tap-root, 
and reset them in rows four feet apart, putting those toge- 
gether which are of about the same size. The best of 
them, if in a good, deep, moist soil, will be fit to bud during 



THE PEAR. 357 

the next summer, and nearly all the balance can be whip- 
grafted the ensuing spring. 

Most kinds of pears grow well on the quince, and come 
some years earlier into bearing. The common quince is 
not sufficiently vigorous to form a good stock ; but for 
this purpose the Angers Quince— an upright, quick-grow- 
ing variet}', which takes readily from cuttings — is used. 
The fruit produced from trees on this stock are usually 
larger and of better flavor than on the pear. The trees 
can also be set much nearer each other; they come into 
bearing in two or three years, but are not so long-lived as 
on the pear. 

In planting, the trees on the pear stocks should be set 
twenty feet apart ; but as these will be several years be- 
fore they come into bearing, the spaces should be filled up 
with dwarf trees growing on the quince stock, so as to 
leave them when planted ten feet apart. Thus a planta- 
tion of sixteen trees, set in a square, on the pear stock, 
would require thirty-three on the quince to fill the inter- 
vals — making a square of seven trees on a side. The 
dw^arf trees should be planted so deeply as to cover every 
trace of the quince stock, in order to permit roots to be 
thrown out from above the point of union. This will 
prevent the quince borer, and add to the longevity of the 
tree. The soil must be kept clean and well tilled; but 
should not be deeply spaded Avithin two feet of the trunk. 
No fruit tree will be healthy or bear well if the ground is 
deeply spaded near its stem. 

The pear likes a deep, strong loam, similar to that 
required by the apple. Iron is very beneficial ; hence the 
pear succeeds well in our red clayey loam, if deeply dug 
and sufficiently manured. On the quince the soil should 
be deep and cool. 





BABK 


HEART WOOD. 


OF THK TRLNK. 


26.94 


6.20 


0.21 


1.70 


0.45 


1.80 


20.40 


6.50 


0.80 




25.48 


37.29 


13.14 


30.36 


2.93 


9.40 


0.30 


0.40 


1.00 


0.65 


5.00 


4.20 



358 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



ANALYSIS OF THE ASH OF THE PEAR. 

SAP WOOD. 

Potasli, 22.25 

Soda, 1.84 

Chlorine, 0.31 

Sulphuric Acid, . . 0.50 

Phosphate of Lime, . 27.22 

Phosphate of Per- ) ^ ^i 

oxide Iron, • . i 

Carbonic Acid, . . . 27.69 

Lime, 12.64 

Magnesia, 3.00 

Silex, 0.30 

Coal, 0.17 

Organic matter, . . . 4.02 

100.25 96.65 98.50 

The above analysis is by Prof. Emmons. The root of 
the pear contains less lime and magnesia, but more chlo- 
rine, soda, phosphate of lime, and silex. Wood ashes will 
supply the potash, and bone manure or superphosphate 
of lime the phosphate of lime. 

In pruning the j^ear, the object is to make it throw out 
branches within a foot of the ground, and to encourage its 
growth in its natural pyramidal shape. Not much prun- 
ing is required the first year ; but any shoot that by over- 
growth threatens to destroy the beauty of the tree, should 
be pinched in at once. AVhen the tree is transplanted, if 
it has been out of the ground for any time, it must be 
severely shortened in. If you have good roots, the top 
will soon be rencAved. Severe pruning at this time is the 
only way to make the tree branch out near the soil, so as 
to shade the trunk, and give a fine pyramidal shape. 
The object is to form a tree like c. in the cut. To secure 



THE PEAR. 



^59 



this plant maiden trees, or those one year from the bud. 
When they have grown one year, they Avill be something 
like a. Cut off the branches where the lines are dotted, 





in the winter, and pinch in any shoots during the summer, 
that would destroy the symmetry of the tree, or remove 
them entirely if superfluous. If this is done, the tree at 
the close of a good season will resemble b. Head back 
the leader to strengthen the side branches, each year. The 
leader must be shortened more or less according to its 
vigor. A little practice will enable any one of ordinary 
judgment to fonn his trees in the desired shape. Do not 
let the branches remain so close together that when they 
come to bear, they will cause the fruit and foliage in the 
interior to suffer for want of air. Keep the loM^er shoots 
the longest by pinching those above, when disposed to 
overgrow them. The main thing is constant attention 
that the tree may not waste its strength in forming wood 
where it will have to be cut out to keep the tree in good 
shape. The whole process is concisely detailed in the 
following from the " Gardener's Chronicle :" — 



360 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

*' The process consists in sliortening tlie first year's 
slioot of the apple or pear tree, called the graft shoot, to 
one foot at a full bud. The first year, on pushing out in 
spring, rub off all laterals, except four or five at the bottom 
of the stemi to garnish it with a first tier of branches for 
future years. Train the leader to a stick quite perpendicu- 
lar. The next winter proceed as before, by shortening the 
leader twelve inches at a full bud. Remove all interme- 
diate buds as before down the leader, and leave those at 
the bottom to form a second tier of laterals ; and shorten 
the lower tier to an outside bud. After the second year 
shoot, the summer pruning consists in rubbing off the 
laterals forming now the lower tier, above and below the 
branch, so as to keej) them as horizontal as possible. 
Strengthen those that grow horizontal by pinching off the 
ends if necessary. Each tier should be as near as may be 
twelve or thirteen inches, one above the other ; and, if 
possible, the branches of each succeeding tier should be 
so grown as to be above the interval:! of the tier below." 
This makes a beautiful symmetrical tree, ornamental even 
in a flower garden." 

The great obstacle in pear culture is the blight, a dis- 
ease Avhose virulence is almost peculiar to this fruit tree. 
The causes are not well known. Hon. John Lowell, of 
Boston, attributes it to a minute insect described by Peck, 
in 1816, as the scolytus fijri. The insect in this latitude 
lays its eggs late in May or June, close to a bud ; and as 
they hatch, the grub enters the shoot, perforating and 
devouring it. While the tree is in its full growth, shoots 
at the extremity of the branches suddenly shrivel, the 
leaves turn back and die; the wood also is dark and dis- 
colored, and dries very hard. Prof. Turner attributes this 
disease to another minute insect, scarcely perceptible to the 
naked eve, which covers the branches in mvriads. This 



THE PEAR. 861 

form of blight can be prevented by tlie application of lime- 
wash, soft soap, or soda lye. But these will hardly ac- 
count for all the forms of blight in the pear. Sometimes 
in fine growing weather, near-ly the whole tree is suddenly 
killed by this insidious disease. Perhaps, when the shoots 
are very tender, succulent, and full of sap, they are unable 
to endure a high degree of heat. Again, trees that are 
growing in very rich ground, sometimes do not ripen their 
wood perfectly, when a sudden frost, followed by a hot 
sun-shine, bursts the tissues of the shoots, and corrupts the 
sap, causing the shoots to perish, and if not timely arrested 
by severe pruning, totally destroys the tree. This disease 
is quite frequent in cold climates. "Whatever may be the 
causes of blight, it is certain that those varieties making 
rapid growth, are most affected by it. The Seckel pear 
growing slowly, is free of it. Again with us, if old trees 
are headed down severly in order to graft on, they are 
almost sure to be blighted, the ensuing summer, in the 
vigorous young shoots. 

Mr. Van Buren, one of our best pomologists, thinks the 
disease caused by an insect, which punctures the bark on 
the trunk, and large limbs at those points, where it is 
changing from the smooth to the rough state. It first ap- 
pears as a dark spot, as if a little povf der had been burned 
there. The spot enlarges, the bark sinks down to the 
wood, and at length becomes surrounded with a crack or 
seam, separating it from the healthy part. Soon as the 
spot occupies a considerable portion of the trunk or limb, 
the leaves at the end of the twig turn black and die ; as 
does also more or less of the diseased limb itself. The 
leaves die on the same side of the tree that is diseased 
below. Hence, when the leaves begin to die, or even 
refuse to grow, you will generally find the bark below 
somewhere diseased. When not larger than a pea, they 
16 



862 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

may sometimes be seen while the health of the tree is 
affected, only so as to stop growth. Upon cutting into the 
spots the bark is dark and discolored ; with two punctures 
generally about one eighth of an inch apart (occasionally 
there is but one). At first they do not reach the wood, 
but only to the cellular integument. If the affected part 
is removed with a knife, the wound immediately heals, 
and the health of the tree is restored. Cut out the dis- 
eased bark, if it extends nearly around the trunk. Trees 
with soft, thick bark are more liable to be affected. When 
the leaves turn black, the branch will have to be cut off 
below the affected part. It is not certain whether this 
variety of the disease is caused by an insect, or a fungus. 
This form of blight I have never seen. 

In all cases of blight, whether it is caused by insects, or 
disease of the circulation Avhen the twigs begin to die, the 
remedy is the same, and must be promptly applied, or the 
tree is lost. Cut off the infected part at once, a foot below 
where it appears shrivelled, and burn it. If it spreads 
further, cut more deeply. Examine daily ; cut promptly 
and unsparing ; you may as well kill the tree yourself, as 
have it destroyed by blight, and the disease spreading from 
tree to tree. The best method of prevention is not to feed 
the pear too highly with nitrogenous manure, but rather 
with leaf mould or swamp muck, composted with the 
mineral constituents found by analysis necessary for the 
pear. 

Varieties. — A greater number of varieties of the pear 
are in cultivation than of any other fruit. Of those which 
have fruited here, the following are the most desirable. 
The varieties do not always observe with us the order of 
succession laid down in the books. 

The earliest pear is AmireJoannet, which ripens in May ; 
but it is small and of rather indifferent quality, though it 



THE PEAR — VARIETIES. 363 

bears well, and is desirable in a large collection. Not 
many of tlie later pears (which are the most desirable), 
have yet fruited here ; but so far as tried, they are equal 
or superior to the same fruits ripened at the North. 

1. Madeleine. — Fruit medium, obovate, tapering to the 
stem ; stem long, slender, set on the side of a small swel- 
ling ; skin smooth, yellowish green ; calyx small, in a shal- 
low basin ; flesh white, melting, juicy, sweet, and perfumed. 
Eipe between the first and middle of June. Tree some- 
times blights ; but it is very desirable, unless Doyenne 
d'Ete, which ripens at the same time; should supersede it, 
as it probably will, being a more healthy tree. 

2. Skinless. — Fruit small, long, pyriform ; skin thin, smooth, 
pale green, turning to light yellow, speckled with light 
red in the sun ; stalk long, slender, curved in a very 
slight cavity ; calyx enclosed in a small basin ; flesh 
white, juicy, half melting, sweet, and perfumed. A very 
productive and excellent little pear, and deserves a place 
in every garden. Ripens June 18th. 

3. Blooclgood. — Fruit m.edium size, turbinate, thickening 
into the stalk ; skin thin, yellow, dotted, and marked with 
russet, and has a musk perfume ; calyx open ; stalk short, 
dark brown, set obliquely; fleshy at the base ; flesh yel- 
lowish white, buttery, melting, very sugary and aromatic ; 
core small. The best flavored early pear. Ripens 25th of 
June, Muscat Rubert ripens at the same season with 
this fruit, and is a very prolific bearer and a good pear, 
although inferior to Bloodgood. 

4. Dearborn'' s Seedling. — Fruit rather small, turbinate, reg- 
ular ; skin smooth, light yellow, with a few minute dots ; 
stalk slender, over an inch long, in a slight cavity ; calyx 
spreading in a shallow basin ; flesh white, melting, sweet, 
and sprightly. A very juicy and delicious little pear, 



364 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

quite productive, and one of the best. Eipe tlie last of 
June. Indispensable. 

5. Julienne. — Fruit medium size, obovate, regular ; skin 
smooth, fine yellow ; stalk light brown, over an inch long, 
rather stout, in a very shallow cavity ; calyx small, closed 
in a shallow basin ; flesh white, melting, buttery, sweet, 
and moderately juicy. A very early bearer, and a hardy 
and productive pear, and of very good quality, if house- 
ripened, but sometimes astringent. Hipe 1st of July. 
Desirable and profitable. 

6. St. Ghistlain. — Fruit rather small, pyriform , tapering to 
the stalk ; skin pale yellow, with a few gray specks ; stalk 
an inch and a half long, curved and joined to the fruit by 
fleshy rings at its base ; calyx small, open, in a shallow 
basin ; core small ; flesh white, melting, juicy, with a rich, 
sprightly flavor. Eipens July 6th. This little pear is a fa- 
vorite with me, producing enormous crops, which continue 
to ripen successively for some six weeks or more, and 
when house-riped, they are invariably excellent. 

7. Stevens' Genesee — is a most excellent variety. Fruit 
roundish, obovate (varying to turbinate); stalk an inch 
long, stout, thicker at the base, and set in a slight, one- 
sided caTity ; calyx with short, stiff divisions, in a moder- 
ate basin; flesh white, half-buttery, of rich, aromatic 
flavor. 

8. Golden Beiirre of Bilboa. — Fruit above medium size, 
obovate, regular ; skin thin, smooth, golden-yellow, sprink- 
led evenly with small, brown dots, a little russet near the 
stalk ; stalk an inch and a half long, slender, in a moder- 
ate cavity ; calyx small, closed in a slight basin ; flesh 
white, buttery, melting, and rich. Eipens the last of July, 
before the Bartlett. A nice looking and good pear, pro- 
ducing well — needs house-ripening to bring out its flavor. 



THE PEAR — VARIETIES. 365 

9. Na'poleon. — Fruit large, obtuse, pyriform, varying in 
form ; skin smooth, pale yellow when ripe, with a darker 
cheek ; stem stout, half an inch to an inch in length, set 
in a slight depression ; calyx open in a medium basin ; 
flesh tender, sprightly, juicy, and excellent if house- 
ripened. Growth free on quince or pear upright ; shoots 
olive colored. 

10. Bartlett. — Fruit of large size, pyramidal, irregular ; skin 
thin, smooth, clear yellow, sometimes a slight blush to the 
sun, rarely a little russeted ; stalk an inch long or over, 
stout, in a shallow basin ; flesh white, fine grained, but- 
tery, juicy, vinous, and perfumed. Eipe August 1st to 
20th. The tree is apt to blight, and the fruit is sometimes 
acid, and never of the very highest flavor. In unfavorable 
seasons, the fruit rots where exposed to the sun; but its 
size, fine appearance, and productiveness make it very pop- 
ular and desirable. Will ripen finely in the house when 
two-thirds grown, where blown off by the wind. 

11. SeckeL — -Fruit small, regular, obovate; skin dull yel- 
lowish brown, with russet red cheek ; stalk short, curved, in. 
a slight cavity ; calyx small, in a slight basin ; flesh, whit- 
ish, buttery, very juicy, with a very sweet, rich, spicy flavor, 
considered the best of all pears This fruit is generally 
larger than at the north. It bears abundantly every year, 
seldom blights, and is always delicious. Eipens Aug. 15th. 
Does well, and bears larger fruit on the apple as a stock. 

12. White Doyenne (Virgalieu, St. Michael's, '&c). — Fruit 
medium to large, regular obovate ; skin smooth, light yel- 
low dotted, and often with a. red cheek ; stalk from ^hree- 
fourths of an inch to one and a fourth inches long ; slightly 
curved, and in a small cavity ; calyx small, closed in a 
shallow basin ; flesh white, buttery, melting, high-flavor- 
ed and delicious. Eipens 15th August, and in succession a 
long time ; always of fine quality here ; never cracks, and 



S66 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

in every respect is of the highest excellence. Succeeds on 
pear or quince. 

13. Louise Bonne de Jersey. — Fruit large, p3a'iform ; skin 
smooth and glossy, pale green overspread in the sun with 
brownish red, sprinkled with gray dots; stalk an inch 
long, curved, inserted obliquely, without depression in a 
fleshy base ; calyx open, in a shallow basin ; flesh green- 
ish white, juicy, melting, rich and excellent. Ripens August 
25th. Proves here equally good on pear or quince stock; 
an early bearer always fair, beautiful and of excellent 
though not the highest flavor. (Mr. Van Buren writes it 
does not succeed with him.) 

14. DuchessecrAngoiileme. — Fruit very large, oblong, obo- 
vate with a knobby surface ; skin dull, greenish yellow, 
streaked and spotted with russet ; stalk long, very stout, bent, 
and deeply set in an irregular cavity ; flesh white, buttery, 
very juicy, rich and delicious. Said to succeed best on the 
quince, does well here on pear stock ; a very desirable sort 
on account of the fruit being of excellent quality, and im- 
mensely large. 

15. Belle Lucrative. — Fruit medium size, round, obovate ; 
skin pale yellowish green, slightly russet ; stalk an inch 
long, stout, set obliquely in a slight cavity ; calyx, short, 
open, in a moderate basin ; flesh, melting, exceedingly 
juicy, sugary, rich and delicious. Ripens August 25th. To 
my taste fully equal to the Seckel, very melting and de- 
licious, and a first-rate pear in every respect. Napolean 
and Heathcote are desirable pears ; ripening about the 20th 
of September, and increase the variety of fruits at a season 
when peaches and apples are not usually plentiful. 

16. Beurre Bosc. — Fruit large, pyriform, tapering gradually 
to the stalk ; skin dark yellow, nearly covered Vvdth cinna- 
mon russet, slightly tinged with red to the sun ; stalk long, 
slender, curved ; calyx in a shallow basin ; flesh white. 



THE PEAR — VARIETIES. 387 

melting, buttery, rich and delicious ; begins to ripen tlie 
middle of September ; decidedly one of tbe best. Has a 
delicious flavor, and is a constant and abundant bearer. 
Succeeds best on pear stock. 

17. BeurreDiel. — Fruit larger, obovate, varying to obtuse 
pyriform ; skin thick, lemon yellow, turning to orange, 
somewhat marbled with russet, and marked with large 
brown dots ; stem rather long, stout, in an uneven cavity ; 
flesh yellowish white, a little coarse at the core, rich, 
sugary, buttery, and delicious. Ripe the 15th of September. 
Thought to succeed best on the quince, but here very fine 
on either. The trees for two or three years past, appera-s 
more subject to blight than formerly ; very desirable. 

18. Messire Jean. — Ripens at the same time with the latter. 
Fruit, medium size, turbinate ; skin somewhat rough, yel- 
low, mostly covered with brownish russet ; stalk an inch 
long, in a small wide cavity ; calyx small, open in a shal- 
low basin. Flesh, white, crisp, juicy, breaking with a 
very sweet, rich flavor. Second rate at the North. A 
good bearer, and worth cultivating in a warm climate. A 
highly excellent breaking pear. 

19. Soldat Lilorcur rV Esperin. — Fruit large, oblong, pyri- 
form ; skin greenish yellow, when ripe, somewhat striped and 
dotted with russet; stem full, stout, curved, depression 
slight ; calyx open; flesh a little coarse, but juicy, melt- 
ing, and sweet. A very strong, growing, vigorous, upright 
tree. On the quince, has borne fine specimens with me 
the last two years on quite a young tree. Ripens in Oc- 
tober, and keeps some time. 

20. Lawrence. — Fruit medium to large, long, obovate, nar- 
rowing to an obtuse end ; color dull, pale yellow, mar- 
bled with greenish brown russet at the ends ; calyx large, 
closed in a furrowed basin ; stem stout, swollen at the point 
of junction with the tree, in a round, deep cavity. Treo 



868 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

liardy, of moderate growth, shoots thorny, light yellowish 
brown. October and later, 

21. Gloiit Morcean. — Fruit rather large, oval, obovate, 
varying in shape ; skin, thin, pale greenish yellow, with 
brownish patches ; stem long, slender, in a small cavity ; 
calyx open, in a deep basin. Flesh white, fine-grained, 
buttery, melting, saccharine and rich. Eipens gradually 
through October, lasts often until January. Excellent. 

22. Winter Nells. — Fruit medium size, roundish, obovate 
narrowing to the stalk, yellowish green, dotted with gray 
russet and nearly covered with russet patches towards the 
sun ; stalk long, curved in a narrow cavity ; calyx open, 
in a shallow basin ; flesh yellowish white, fine grained, 
juicy, melting, with a rich sugary flavor. Tree apt to 
blight, but the most delicious of late pears. Eipe last of 
October and through November. Nearly or quite equal 
to the Seckel. 

23. Jaminette, or Josephine. — Fruit medium to large, obo- 
vate, narrowing to the stalk ; skin, pale green, marked with 
brownish russet and speckled with round dots ; stalk, 
rather short, thick, obliquely set without a cavity ; 
calyx open, in a moderate basin ; flesh, white, melting, 
juicy, with sugary aromatic flavor. Ripens Nov. 6th. 
Valuable. 

24. Beurre D' Aremberg. — Fruit, obovate, narrowing to 
the stalk ; skin, pale greenish yellow spotted with russet ; 
stalk short, fleshy and obliquely set ; calyx small, in a 
deep basin ; flesh white, buttery, melting and juicy, with 
a rich vinous flavor. E/ipens in November. Promises well. 

25. Franklin. — A native of this State; large, oblong, turbi- 
nate, very irregular, narrowing to the eye ; green, clouded 
with dark green, and thickly sprinkled with dark green 
dots. A very indifferent looking pear which bears abun- 
dantly, and when ripe in January, the flesh is sweet, 



THE PEAR — VARIETIES. 369 

melting, juicy, and delicious ; calyx in a shallow one-sided 
basin ; stem an incli long, set on one side of the fleshy 
protuberance. 

26. Passe Calmer. — Fruit large, obovate, varying to obtuse, 
pyriform ; skin yellow, sprinkled with brown russet ; stem 
inserted in an uneven cavity or without depression ; calyx 
open, in a shallow basin; flesh yellowish, buttery, juicy, 
rich and sweet. This fruit has not borne here; but in 
other sections of the South, is much liked. The tree is 
apt to blight. 

27. Eastei' Beurre. — Fruit large, roundish, obovate ; skin 
yellowish green, sprinkled with russety dots, with some- 
times a brownish cheek ; stem short, blunt, in an abrupt 
cavity ; calyx small, closed in a broad plaited basin ; 
flesh white, fine-grained, buttery, melting, and of a rich, 
sweet excellent flavor. Has been kept here till March. 
Several trees should be planted of this variety, as it re- 
mains in eating all winter, and is valuable for market. It 
succeeds best, it is said, on the quince. 

28. Catillac, (a cooking pear). — Extremely large, broad, 
turbinate; skin yellow, dotted with brown, and with a 
brownish red cheek ; stalk stout, curved, in a narrow 
cavity ; calyx in a wide deep plaited basin ; flesh hard 
and rough, but cooking tender and of a fine light red 
color. Ripens in November. 

29. Black Worcester. — Fruit large, obovate or oblong; skin 
thick, rough, green, covered with dark russet ; stalk short, 
stout, in a slight cavity ; calyx small, in a moderate basin ; 
flesh hard during the winter, but cooks well, and towards 
spring becomes tolerably good for the table. 

30. Easter Bergamct. — Fruit medium to large, roundish, 

obovate, narrowing to the stalk ; skin smooth, pale green, 

speckled with light grey dots, becoming pale yellowish at 

maturity ; stalk in a slight cavity ; calyx small, in a shal- 

16* 



870 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

low basin ; flesh white, crispy, juicy, melting and sprightly, 
The tree is thrifty, furnislies fruit fit for cooking a long 
time; and as they ripen, they become agreeable for the 
table. Ripens December and January. 

In addition to the above list, Beurre Giffart, DoyennS 
d'Ete, Ott, Rostiezer, and Tyson, are esteemed early 
varieties ; Bdk et Bonne, Beurre, Brown, B. d'Anjou, B. 
Oswego, Gansels Bergamot, Bonne des Zees, Brandywine, 
Doyenne Boussock, De Gris, Flemish Beauty, Henry IV., 
Leech's Kingsessing, Lodge, Onondaga, Paradise d'Au- 
tomne, Urbaniste, Van Assene, and Washington, of the 
middle season ; and Buerre Bretonean, B. Gris d'Hiver 
Noi'eau, B. Langeliers, Columbia, Doyenne d'Alencon, 
Elize d'Heyst, Josephine de Malines, Le^ds, Princes St. 
Germain, and Suzette de Bavoy, of the late varieties, are 
worthy of a trial with those seeking variety, or desiring a 
large collection. The native pears ripening the last of 
August, viz., Comaks, Green Cluster, and Horton, and 
the Nabours a little later, are very desirable. 

Mr. Summer, of Pomaria, S. C, has published in the 
SoiUhcni Agriculturist a select list of fifty-one sorts, 
including Nos. 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, 16, 17, 
21, 22, 24, of the above described. Mr. Van Buren, of 
Clarkesville, gives, as his choice of best sorts, Nos. 3, 7, 9, 
10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 24, 27, and Onondaga and Brown Buerre. 
H. A. Swasey, of Yazoo City, Miss., recommends, in the 
Southern Agriculturist, Nos. 2, 6, 10, 11, 14, 22, 27, and 
Jefferson, Jargonelle, Carolina Sugar, Buffam, Prince of 
Orange, Capiamont, Pound Mammoth, and Le Cure. Dr. 
J. C. Jenkyns, in Southern Cultivator and Report to the 
American Pomological Society, speaks highly of Nos. 1, 
3, 5, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 10, 17, 21, 22, 24, 26; also, 
among others. Doyenne d'Ete, Beurre Giffart, Rostiezer, 
Tyson, Summer Franc, Real Beurre Gouboult, Leech's 



THE APPLh:. 371 

Kingsessing, Doyenne Grey, Brandywine, Long Green, 
and Yicompte de Spoelberg St. Andre, most of which 
bear a high character everywhere. Mr. Van Buren rejects 
Maria Louise and Vicar of Winkfield, also Louise Bonne 
de Jersey and Pass Colmar. Maria Louise here is subject 
to bh'ght, and Vicar of Winkfield or Le Cure always cracks 
and is worthless ; but Louise Bonne de Jersey is one of 
the very best in tree and fruit here, and Passe Colmar 
generally succeeds in the South. 

Pyrus Mains — The Apple. 

The apple probably originated from the European crab; 
but, in its improved state, it is so superior to its parent, in 
size and flavor, that some deny the original identity of the 
two. But centuries of cultivation might certainly cause 
as great a change in the quality of this fruit as, in the case 
of the dahlia, we have seen a very few years produce in 
the beauty of a flower. 

The apple was early brought into cultivation — in the 
time of Pliny twenty-two varieties being known to the 
Eomans. They probably introduced its culture into Great 
Britain. It succeeds, however, in this country better than 
in Europe, especially in the fresh soils of the middle 
States, or in the cool mountain regions of the South, 
localities which have originated many choice varieties. 

Where the apple can be grown and preserved in per- 
fection, it is the most useful of fruits. Varieties can be 
selected which will afford a succession through the entire 
season. They can be thus preserved in our own mountain 
region, from which excellent fruit is brought as late as the 
first of May. 

The best varieties of apples are excellent dessert fruits. 
Medicinally, they are slightly laxative, and, used moder- 



872 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH, 

ately, keep the system in proper tone. Children are more 
healthy if allowed to use, in moderate quantity, fully ripe 
fruit. Apples, indeed, are really nutritive, and are often 
employed in feeding domestic animals. For the table they 
are prepared in many ways (in all of which they are 
wholesome), as by baking, stewing, in pies, tarts, pud- 
dings, jellies, and preserves. They are also dried for 
winter use. Choose for this purpose those which will 
cook tender, and are of fine, brisk flavor. 

The apple may be propagated by cuttings, which may 
be planted like most other cuttings, with both ends bent 
downward like an inverted U, thus q. The upper part 
of the bow should be crowned with a bud, which should 
be just beneath the surface of the soil. But the best mode 
is by budding or grafting on seedling stocks. The seed 
should be planted in good soil, at any time during the 
winter months, in rows eighteen inches apart. Keep them 
clean during the summer, and, if the soil and season have 
been favorable, they may be taken up the next spring, the 
roots shortened, and then whip-grafted just above the sur- 
face, Reset them in good soil, in rows three feet apart, 
and one foot in the roAv. Those which were not large 
enough to graft may be also reset, and will do to bud 
during the summer. The next winter, those well grown 
may be set where they are to remain. If any of the plants 
are infested with the woolly aphis, wash them with tobacco- 
water; or, if you have enough without them, burn them 
up. The plants should be placed in the orchards twenty- 
five or thirty feet apart. The intervening space, for the 
first few years may be filled with dwarf pears, quinces, 
piums, or peaches, which can be cut down when the apple 
trees require the whole ground, A thin mulching of leaves, 
straw, or decayed tan-bark, is a useful application about 
the roots of the tree. 



THE APPLE. 373 



ANALYSIS OF THE APPLE. 



Potash, .... 


SAPWOOD. 

16.19 


BARK, 

4.930 


Soda, .... 


3.11 


3.285 


Chloride of Sodium, . 


0.43 


0.540 


Sulphate of Lime, . 


0,05 


0.637 


Phosphate of Perox. of Iron, 


0.80 


0.375 


Phosphate of Lime, . 


17.50 


2.425 


Phosphate of Magnesia, 


0.20 




Carbonic Acid, . 


29.10 


44.830 


Lime, .... 


18.63 


51.578 


Magnesia, 


8.40 


0.150 


Silicica, 


0.85 


0.200 


Soluble Silica, . 


0.80 


0.400 


Organic matter, 


4.60 


2.100 




100.65 


109.450 



One-half of the ash of the bark of the apple, and over 
one-sixth of that of the sap-wood, it will be seen, is pure 
lime. When this mineral is not pretty abundant, the tree 
cannot be kept in health. Swamp-muck or leaf-mould 
composted with this, with the addition of bone-dust, pot- 
ash, or ashes, are the best applications. 

The best soil for the apple, in this climate, is a deep, 
cool, moist loam. In bottom-lands they generally do 
well, if there be no stagnant water, since the roots find 
abundant moisture, and the later varieties will continue 
growing until the proper time to gather for winter use. 
If planted on dry, shallow soil, unless deeply trenched, 
all the winter varieties will drop before attaining perfec- 
tion. The best manure for the apple is swamp-muck, or 
woods earth composted with the lime and salt mixture ; to 
which may be added wood-ashes, old plaster, and any- 
thing containing lime. 

The apple, in this section, is a difficult fruit to culti- 



374 GARDENING FOR TUE SOUTH. 

vate. A tree full grown, and entirely free from disease, 
is a rarity. I have Lad them die at the root suddenly, 
while the top was apparently free from disease, and both 
entirely free from the woolly aphis. Sometimes they die 
slowly, perhaps from the too intense action of the sun 
upon the soil and roots ; or, it may be, from the great de- 
ficiency of lime in this soil. A large proportion of our 
trees are diseased and decayed on the south-western side 
of the trunk, where the sun falls in the heat of the day. 
Then we have the bark-lice, borers, and caterpillars. 
Then, worse than all, is that pest of the orchard, the 
woolly aphis, or American blight. Now these are serious 
obstacles in the way of the orchardist ; but they may be 
surmounted. Bark-lice, caterpillars, and borers, a little 
care, in season, will destroy here, as Avell as anywhere. 
The sun-burning of the trunk can be prevented by plant- 
ing trees of but one year's growth from the bud, and so 
shortening them in, when planted, that they will throw 
out branches near the soil. The thick foliage will thus 
screen the trunk from the sun, and, by keeping the roots 
shaded, will improve the general health of the tree. The 
lime and other constituents lacking in the soil can from 
time to time be applied. Old plastering, and the refuse 
lime of the tanner, where they can be had, will cheeply 
supply this element. 

The aphis is more troublesome. If they are on a single 
tree in the garden, the wind will soon carry them enve- 
loped in the down from one end to the other. If you are free 
from them at first, it is better to raise trees from seed, get 
scions and graft them yourself, than to incur the risk of 
introducing the aphis with your purchases. If you do 
buy, beware of those trees with roots full of warts, caused 
by its minute lacerations. If there is the least token of 
the presence of the aphis, either by the downy matter in 



TUK APPLE. 875 

the crack of the bark of tlie young tree, or by the warts on 
the roots, wash the roots thoroughly in tobacco water, and 
paint the stem and branches with whitewash, composed of 
soap-suds, thickened with quick lime. You will thus be 
free from this pest to begin with ; afterwards every place 
where they appear should be coated with this paint. Tliis, 
on moderate size trees, is an effectual remedy, and besides a 
beneficial application to the tree. Some trees, like the 
Meigs, are seldom troubled with the aphis, while the Early 
May is almost always infested with them. When the 
aphis infests the roots it is best destroyed by uncovering 
the roots, and pouring strong tobacco water upon them 
wherever affected. In pninning the young tree, the first 
object is to make it throw out shoots near the earth to 
shield the trunk from the sun. All fruit trees should be 
thus trained. Xever let a fruit tree be bare of branches 
more than twelve inches from the ground, or allow it to 
shoot up with a long naked stem. Peaches, pears, plums, 
&c., are all more healthy and productive thus trained. 
This is effected by shortening or pinching the upper 
shoots, for which sufficient directions are give in our 
article on the ' Pear.' The apple, however, does not gene- 
rally require as close shortening in of its leading shoot as 
the pear. All needless branches, and those which inter- 
fere by crossing and rubbing against each other, should be 
removed Avhile small. If a large limb is removed, cover 
the stump with grafting wax, or the shellac solution. 

Gathering the Fruit. — Those intended for keeping or 
sending to market, should be carefully picked from the tree, 
and handled with great care, to prevent bruising. Those 
that fall of themselves must be kept separate, as the least 
bruise will cause decay. They must be frequently looked 
over, and every one the least decayed, must be carefully 
removed, or it will infect the others. They should bo 



376 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

kept at a uniform temperature in a dry cool, situation 
Choice specimens may be wrapped in absorbent paper, and 
laid singly on shelves. They should not be exposed to 
much frost, and still less to extremes of heat. Specimens 
may thus be kept in good condition until March. A fruit- 
room should be kept as cool as possible, and if the tempe- 
rature could be kept uniformly at 32"^, no decay would 
take place. Packed in ice, they are sent in perfect 
safety to the East and West Indies. 

In selecting varieties for cultivation, as it is a matter of 
some difficulty to raise a good supply (the apple being 
adapted to a more northern climate), we must guard 
against over refinement. It is not our first question, What 
varieties are of the very highest flavor ; but is the tree 
hardy and productive enough to bear fruit at all. Will it 
produce enough to be worth cultivating. It is then quite 
early enough to select from those possessing these indis- 
pensable good qualities those of the highest flavor for 
the dessert or kitchen. 

Of northern varieties, those classed as Summer Apples 
almost invariably succeed here. Some of the Early Autumn 
varieties also do well, and, of course, are summer apples 
with us. But the winter apples, as a class, are entirely 
unsuited to our climate. We need good Autumn and 
Winter varieties, and for them we must rely upon those 
of southern origin, as the northern winter varieties usually 
fall and decay before the middle of September; besides 
here very few of them exhibit any choice qualities. 
Some, fifty sorts have been tried here, and failed. Any 
one possessed of native varieties that ripen in October and 
November, or later, will confer a benefit on the entire 
South by disseminating scions among our Southern 
nurseries. 

1. Early May. — Fruit small, roundish, sometimes slightly 



THE APPLE— VARIETIES. 377 

oblong ; skin thin, yellowisli green when ripe, with some- 
times a brownish cheek; stem short, in a shallow cavity; 
calyx small, closed in a shallow basin; flesh yellowish- 
white, tender, of a mild acid and rather pleasant flavor; 
begins to ripen the 15th or 20th of May. The earliest of 
apples, which is its only merit. Probably the "White 
Juneating of Downing. Liable to the aphis. 

2. Early Harvest. — Fruit medium size, round, some- 
times flattened ; skin smooth, with a few white dots, and of 
lightest straw color; stalk half to three-fourths of an inch 
long, slender in a moderate cavity; calyx in a shallow 
basin ; flesh white, tender, juicy, crisp ; flavor rich, spright- 
ly, andsubacid. Inclined to overbear. Eipens last of May. 

3. Red June. — Fruit medium, generally oblong, but occa- 
sionally flat ; skin smooth, green in the shade, changing 
rapidly at maturity to a fine dark crimson ; stem half to 
three-fourths of an inch long, inserted in a moderate 
cavity ; calyx in a shallow basin ; flesh white, tender, 
mellow, and digestible, fine grained, slightly acid, moder- 
ately juicy, but not rich. A good fruit and a hardy, pro- 
ductive tree. Ripens early in June. This is not the E.ed 
Astracou, which, being more acid, is better for the kitchen, 
and not so good for the dessert. 

4. Julian. — Fruit medium size, roundish, tapering some- 
what to the eye, rather one-sided ; calyx small, in a 
narrow basin; stem short, in a moderate cavity; skin 
thin, yellowish white, striped and marbled with carmine, 
of a beautiful waxen appearance, sprinkled sparingly Avith 
whitish dots ; flesh white, tender, juicy, and fine flavored ; 
indeed, the finest summer apple known north and south. 
Ripens about the middle of July. 

5. Sinclair's Yellow. — Fruit small to medium, flat or 
roundish ; skin smooth, of a fine orange color, darkened 
in the sun ; flesh pale yellow, with a rich subacid flavor. 



378 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

A good bearer, and excellent for both tbe table and kitcben. 
Ripens June 15th. 

6. Bough. — Large oblong ovate ; skin smooth, pale green- 
ish yellow; stalk rather long, in a deep, narrow cavity; 
calyx deeply sunk ; flesh white, with a rich sprightly 
saccharine flavor. Ripens late in June. 

7. Maide?i Blush. — Fruit medium size, flat, smooth, and 
fair ; skin thin, clear lemon yellow, with a fine blush to 
the sun; stalk short, in a wide, deep cavity; calyx closed 
in a moderate basin ; flesh white, tender, sprightly, sub- 
acid. Excellent for drying and culinary uses, and a fair 
dessert fruit. E-ipens first of July to August. 

8. Cane Creek weet. — Medium or large, oblong, regular 
tapering to the eye ; skin pale green ; stalk long, slender, 
in a deep cavity, often slightly furrowed ; calyx closed, 
in a narrow, plaited basin ; flesh white, tender, moderately 
sweet, when in perfection juicy, but becomes mealy if 
over ripe. Quality very good. From Burke Co., N. C. 
Ripe 15tli July. 

9. Toccoa. — Rather large, conical,irregular; skin yellow, 
striped with red ; stem short, in an irregular cavity ; calyx 
closed in a small, irregular basin ; flesh yellow, with a 
brisk rich Spitzenburgh flavor, moderately juicy; core 
large. A native of Habersham Co. Ripens first of August. 

10. Horse Apple. — Size medium to large, roundish, nar- 
rowing to the eye, sometimes conical and somewhat irregu- 
lar ; skin thick, greenish yellow in the shade, but rich, dark 
orange, or blush, towards the sun, often marked with a 
few russet lines, or flecks, about the stem; stem short, 
rather large, in a shallow cavity ; calyx in a narrow basin ; 
core large, hollow; seeds few; flesh yellow, firm, coarse 
grained, with a rich acid flavor. Well ripened, a good 
table apple ; excellent for cooking. Ripens last of July 
Productive, hardy, and valuable, continuing long in use. 



THE APPLE— VARIETIES. 879 

11. Male Carle. — Fruit medium size, regular, narrow- 
ing to the eye ; skin smooth, waxen, lemon yellow in the 
shade, with a light crimson cheek; stalk an inch long, slen- 
der, in a narrow, regular cavity ; calyx in a deep, narrow 
basin ; flesh white, moderately juicy, tender, of delicate 
flavor. A native of the south of Europe ; succeeds well 
here. Eipens in August. 

12. Fall Pippin. — Fruit very large, roundish, flattened, 
obscurely ribbed ; stalk three-fourths of an inch long, m a 
shallow, round cavity ; calyx small, in a deep, narrow 
basin ; flesh tender and mellow, with a rich, aromatic, 
subacid flavor. A splendid apple here. The Cameusar 
or Elgin Pippin (Reinette Blanche d'Espagne) resembling 
this, but oblong, is a little later, and proves, with Dr. 
Jenkyns, near Natchez, the best of all apples. It ripens 
there last of July, and through August. Fall Pippin ripens 
here in August. 

13. Carthouse. — Fruit of medium size, roundish, oblong; 
skin smooth, handsome, streaked with red and yellow; 
stalk short, in a deep cavity ; calyx in a deep, regular 
basin; flesh yellow, firm, juicy, and rich, when fully ripe 
tender and sprightly. A fine cider apple. E/ipens first 
of September. From Virginia. 

14. Buffs. — Fruit of the largest size, irregular, roundish, 
flattened, and slightly angular in form ; skin thick, ground 
color, yellow, but striped and overspread with red, very 
dark next the sun, marked with a few greenish russet 
spots; stem three-fourths of an inch long, in a medium 
cavity; calyx in a large, irregular basin; flesh yellowish, 
and when well ripened, tender and excellent, sometimes 
indifferent — Slacks richness and acidity. Ripens Novem- 
ber to March. Indispensable. 

15. Meigs. — Fruit large, regular, oblong, narrowing to 
thee ye, sometimes slightly ribbed ; skin yellow, but mostly 



380 GARDENING- FOR THE SOUTH. 

concealed with a marbling of red, and sprinkled with 
prominent yellow dots ; calyx small, closed and set in a 
narrow basin ; stalk very short, thick, in a deep, narrow 
cavity ; flesh yellowish white, tender, juicy, with a rich 
slightly subacid flavor. The best apple I know of our 
native fruits. G-rowth very thrifty, and less infested with 
aphis than many others. 

16. WaddeVs Hall or Shockley. — Fruit, medium, roundish, 
oblong, narrowing to the eye ; skin, yellow, clouded, and 
striped with red, and with blotches of very dark-greenish 
russet ; stalk long, slender, inserted in a deep, narrow 
cavity ; calyx closed, set in a shallow basin ; flesh firm, 
saccharine, of good second-rate flavor ; ripe in October, 
and will keep till March. 

17. Li7nbert2vig. — Fruit large, dull red ; flesh yellowish, 
firm, not very high-flavored, but a good deal cultivated in 
our up-country. The pendant branches give the tree its 
name. Originated in Virginia. It keeps through the winter. 

The following additional varieties are described by Mr. 
Van Buren, of Clarkesville, Ga., as very superior, and 
most of them recommended by the Fruit Committee of 
the Southern Central Agricultural Society. They are 
now in the nurseries : — 

18. Carnation. — Fruit medium size ; a delicious sub-acid 
apple, fully first-rate ; dark-red, splashed with russet J 
flesh white, brittle, and very juicy ; both the calyx and 
stem are sunk in deep depressions ; no autumn apple is 
superior ; ripe August 10th. 

19. Hugh's Crah. — Small size; green striped, and splashed 
with dark red ; stem short, inserted in a moderate cavity ; 
flesh sprightly, subacid, and good ; a good bearer ; ripe 
August 10th. 

20. Batchelor or King. — Fruit of the largest size; roundish, 
flattened a little, broader at the base ; skin lemon yellow, 



THE APPLE — VARIETIES. 881 

washed with /ively red on the sunny side, (sometimes ob- 
scurely striped), and sprinkled sparsely with greyish 
specks ; calyx small, open in a rather deep basin ; stalk 
very short, thick, and inserted in a moderate regular basin, 
which is often russeted ; flesh Avhite, tender, tine grained 
juicy and most agreeable subacid flavor. It is from 
North Carolina (November). — A magnificent fruit. 



WINTER VARIETIES. 

21. Maverick Stoeet. — Very large, roundish, irregular, some- 
times slightly conical, striped with bright red, sprinkled 
with greenish flecks ; stem short, in a rather large regular 
cavity ; calyx open ; basin medium ; skin rather thick ; 
flesh fine grained, tender, of sweet, excellent flavor. Ripens 
November and December. 

22. Nickajack.* — Size very large, flattened ; color yellow- 
ish green, covered with red stripes and splashes, and 
sprinkled with minute white specks ; calyx large, open, 
set in a broad basin ; stem short, in a regular cavity ; 
flesh juicy, tender, brisk, acid. Ripens late, and in the 
mountains keeps until May. Originated in Franklin, 
N. 0.; one of the very best. 

23. Span. — Large, flattened ; green, striped with red, a lit- 
tle russet about the stem, which is short, thick, in a broad 
cavity ; a good acid apple, nearly first-rate ; keeps till 
January or February ; tree upright, thrifty, and a good 
bearer. 

24. Murray. — Medial, oblong or conical ; very regular ; 
calyx in a deep basin ; stem short, moderately thick, in a 
rather deep, regular cavity ; color fine yellow, inclining to 
orange ; flavor fine, brisk, subacid ; keeps till March. Tree 
a good bearer. 

« Or Summerour?— \ B. 



882 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

25. Walker's Yellow.^LsiYge, oblong, or oval ; skin yellow, 
with a slight blush to the sun; fine flavored; tree upright 
and vigorous ; a seedling of George Walker, Esq., Long- 
street, Pulaski Co., in the lower part of this State, where 
it ripens in October ; will prove a fine winter apple in most 
of the Southern States. 

26. Cullasaga. — Large, regular, a little conical; skin yel- 
low, covered with fine crimson stripes; calyx small, in a 
moderate basin ; of pleasant, aromatic, subacid flavor ; a 
first-rate apple, and keeps well. 

27. Berry. — Large, roundish, slightly flattened, regular ; 
skin yellow mottled with dote, covered with broad stripes 
of dark red ; stem medium cavity broad, calyx in a broad 
shallow basin. Flesh yellow, firm, rich, of slightly acid 
flavor. Tree thrifty, upright and very prolific. Ripens 
late in October, and keeps through the winter. 

28. Disharoon. — Large, regular, slightly conical; calyx 
small in a narrow basin, skin yellowish green, with many 
roundish spots made darker by minute specks. Flesh of 
fine aromatic subacid flavor, resembling that of the New- 
town Pippin. Early winter, or late autumn. 

29. White. — Medium to large, regular, slightly conical ; 
calyx in a hollow basin ; color lemon yellow, with spots and 
splashes made darker by minute black specks on a greenish 
ground. Flesh crisp, tender, juicy. Keeps until January. 
Rather acid for the table, but fine for cooking. 

30. Catooga. — Large to very large irregular, broadest at 
the base ; yellow mottled, with black dots, and sprinkled 
with flecks of green, stalk of medium length, slender ; 
cavity deep, calyx open in a deep basin. Flesh yellowish, 
with a mild pleasant subacid flavor. 

31. C amahs' Stveet. — Fruit, medium to large, roundish, 
conical; whitish green, mottled with green russett, the 
patches of v/hich are made up with small dots, with a fine 



THE APPLE — VARIETIES. 883 

flush, or red cheek towards the sun ; flesh firm, scarcely 
sweet, juicy and fine flavored, very good, stalk short, 
cavity and basin broad ; calyx closed December. 

32. Never Fail. — Medium, roundish, conical, greenish 
yellow, a little russeted, striped and nearly overspread 
with red ; stem short, in a small regular cavity ; calyx 
small, nearly closed ; flesh yellow, firm, with a rich aro- 
matic sub-acid flavaor. Ripens in December. 

33. Qiceen. — Size, medium to large ; form ovate, very 
regular ; calyx slightly sunk ; stem three-fourths of an 
inch long ; color, a fine golden yellow. Very beautiful, 
and quality first-rate. 

34. Wall. — Large, oblong, flattened at each end, slightly 
ribbed ; color, dark green, nearly covered with dark red ; 
calyx large. Of fine quality, and tree prolific. 

35. Mangum. — Size medium, regular, slightly conical ; 
stem small, in a narrow cavity ; color green, nearly over- 
spread with large red stripes. Of excellent quality, and 
keeps till March. 

36. Norton. — Large, roundish, regular ; color, green, 
broadly striped with red. A beautiful and good fruit which 
keeps till May. Tree vigorous and prolific. 

37. Red Warrior. — Fruit very large, form nearly globu- 
lar, but a little angular ; color orange yellow, striped and 
marbled with bright and dark red, Avith a few dark brown 
spots sprinkled over it ; stem medium size, three-fourths 
of an inch long ; cavity medium ; calyx closed in a smooth 
deep basin ; flesh white, moderately acid, with plenty of 
juice ; quality very good. Montgomery, Ala., Dr. Bald- 
win keeps till March a first-rate variety for winter. 

38. Carter. — Fruit roundish, narrowing to the eye ; size 
medium to large ; color fine orange yellow in shade, nearly 
overspread with smooth blended red towards the sun ; 
the yellow is speckled with faint russet ; stem three 



884 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

fourths of an incli long, fleshy, springing from a wide deep 
cavity ; calyx large open in a wide deep, somewhat ribbed 
basin. Very highly spoken of at the fair for 1856, at 
Montgomery, Ala. In a milder climate is said to hang on 
the tree until January. Probably the best winter apple 
for the climate of middle Alabama, Miss., &c. 

39. Oconee Greening is said to be a very fine Avinter 
apple, in appearance much like Disharoou with which it 
may prove identical. 

For a select list, Mr. Van Buren recommends Red June, 
Bruce, Julien, Bough, Cane Creek, Toccoa, and Defiance, 
for summer. Disharoon, Tender Skin,Batchelor and Fall 
Pippin for the middle season, and Kickajack, Oamak, 
Sweet Oullasaga, Wall, Catooga, Berry, Maverick Sweet, 
Shockley, Neverfail, and Duckett for winter. 

For a select list, I v»''ould recommend Nos. 3, 4, 6, 10, 
12, 14, 15, 16, 20, 21, 22, 26, 27, 28, 31, 32, 35, 37, 38. 
Mostly native Southern varieties, and whatever else we 
buy abroad, it is certain that our apples should be got from 
our Southern Nurseries. 

Rihts — Currant and Gooseberry. 
Rihts Rubrum — Currant. 

The currant is a low shrub, a native of Great Britain 
and the northern parts of Europe and America, with 
smooth branches, doubly serrate pubescent leaves, and 
yellowish green flowers, appearing early. The fruit rip- 
ens with the later strawberries and raspberries. It suc- 
ceeds and thrives admirably in our mountain sections, and 
will live and bear tolerably well here in a cool, northern 
exposure; but would probably die out, the first summer, 
near the coast. 

The fruit is of an agreeable acid taste — ripe, it is used 



THE GOOSEBERRY. 885 

with sugar at the dessert ; and also alone, or mixed with 
raspberries, for jams, jellies, and Avine ; and both green 
or ripe for stewing, tarts, and pies. In cool climates, it is 
the most easily cultivated and most useful of small fruits. 
Medicinallj, it is like the lemon and otlier subacid fruits, 
cooling and antiscorbutic. When perfectly ripe, it is use- 
ful in some cases of diarrhoea. The jam of black currants 
in sore throat is useful. 

The currant is propagated by cuttings, which should be 
planted in the fall in a shady situation. It requires moist, 
rich, deep loam, and should be trained as a bush. It bears 
on wood of previous year's growth ; but mostly on two 
years old wood. As soon as the fruit is off, thin out the 
old wood, leaving only stems of the present and last year's 
growth. Clip off three or four inches of the former to 
make a growth of spurs for the next crop. 

Varieties. — Red Dutch. Fruit of large size, oblate, 
borne in large clusters, and less acid than the common red. 
Color fine transparent red. 

WJiite Dutch. — Large yellowish white, less acid than 
the red kinds. 

Black Naples (Ribes nigra) — is the largest and best of 
the black varieties ; but none of these are desirable. 

Rihes Grossularia — Coosebe r ry. 
The Gooseberry like the currant is a native of Europe. 
Green, it is used for pies, tarts and puddings — ripe, it is a 
Tery agreeable dessert fruit. But it is e-ven more impatient 
of heat than the currant, and cannot be expected to thrive 
except among our mountains. It is propagated from cut- 
tings, likes the same soil and exposures, and is cultivated 
in exactly the same manner as the currant. It has in one 
or two instances produced fruit here from imported plants, 
but they have been very short lived, yielding only one or 
17 



386 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

two crops. Our gardens can be occupied with more produc- 
tive and desirable kinds of fruit. Houghton's seedling is 
the hardiest variety. 

Ruhus — Easpberry and Blackberry. 
Rubus Mens — Raspberry. 

The Raspberry plant has small shrubby stems of bien- 
nial duration, but perennial roots. The leaves are pinnate. 
The flowers appear in panicles on the new groAvth upon 
last year's canes — the fruit ripens in a few weeks after the 
flowers appear. It is a native of both continents in low 
moist situations. The fruit is highly grateful, being fra- 
grant, cooling, allaying heat and thirst, of a pleasant sub- 
acid flavor and is much esteemed either alone or in connec- 
tion with the currant for preserves, tarts, sauces, jellies, 
jams, and ices. Wine is made of the juice by the addition 
of water and sugar. Raspberry shrub, a refreshing drink, 
is made of the unfermented juice, by adding sugar and 
water. Currant shrub jirepared in the same way, is still 
more cooling. Raspberry juice, like that of strawberries, 
dissolves the tartar of the teeth, and the fruit never ferment- 
ing in the stomach may be used by invalids. 

This plant flourishes on deep, rich, moist loam. A bot- 
tom near a stream is the best location. If this is not to 
be obtained, trench the ground deeply and mulch during 
the summer. Permit no grass or weeds among the bushes. 
Raspberries grow admirably where they can receive the 
drainage of buildings. Downing says a slight dressing of 
salt is a valuable application. The raspberry is propaga- 
ted from suckers or offsets from the main roots. It may also 
be raised from seed by which new varieties are obtained. 
Seedlings bear in two years. In planting offsets two or 
three are planted together to form a stool in rows five feet 
asunder and three feet in the row. The black Raspberry 



THE RASPBEKRY VARIETIES. 387 

is propagated by layering the branches. When the crop 
is gathered, cut away all the wood, and leave but five of 
the new canes. Manure the ground, in autumn, with a 
coat of swamp muck or leaf mould, which dig in. In the 
spring cut off from six to twelve inches of the young shoots 
as the extremities are feeble and worthless. Mulch in 
April, directly after a good rain, with leaves, pine straw, or 
litter. By cutting off the canes near the ground in the 
spring, later fruit may be obtained. A plantation will con- 
tinue in bearing five or six years. The fruit is better 
where the canes are neatly tied to rods or low espalier rails. 

Varieties.— The American Black, and a variety known 
as the English, succeed finely here. Mr.Afileck,of Miss., 
finds the Yellow Magnum Bonum productive and deli- 
cious. We describe those most Avorthy of trial ; but, so 
far, the black is worth all the others. 

Antwerp Bed. — Large, conical ; dull red ; flesh firm, 
rich, juicy, sweet, and high-flavored; canes moderately 
strong and pale brown ; leaves, large. 

Antwerp Yellotv. — Large, nearly conical ; pale yelloAV ; 
sweet and excellent ; canes strong and vigorous ; light 
yellow, and spinous ; bears a long time. 

American Black (Ruhus occidentalis). — Small, flattened; 
black, or dark purple, with a whitish bloom ; later, and 
more acid than the preceding ; the well-known Thimble- 
berry, succeeds well here. From its rich, acid flavor, it 
is the best variety for cooking, as in tarts, pies, puddings, 
&c. It is much improved by pruning and culture, and 
should be set at Avider distances than the other varieties, 
because it grows more rampant. Ohio Ever-bearing is a 
variety of this, but bears through the season. 

Franconia. — Fruit large, obtuse, conical, dark purplish 
red ; of rich, brisk acid flavor ; canes strong, spreading, 
branching, yelloAvish brown, Avith scattered stout spines ; 



888 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. ■ 

leaves narrow, long, deep green. Said to bear abun- 
dantly. 

Fastolff. — Very large, roundish, conical; brigbt purplish 
red ; tender, rich, and liigli-flavored ; canes strong, erect, 
brandling; witli strong spires. 

Cushing. — Originated by Dr. Brinckle, of Pliiladelpliia. 
A fine new crimson sort, which will doubtless succeed here 
here better than the European varieties. The same 
remark will apply to Brinkle's Orange, and Wilder, both 
of which are light-colored varieties. 

Ruhus Villosus, Sfc. — Blackberry. 

The blackberry is a native American plant, found 
growing abundantly from Labrador to the Gulf of Mexico. 
The Ruhiis villosus, or High Bush, which includes several 
varieties, and Ruhus conachnsis, both produce excellent 
fruit. The wild fruit is so abundant in most localities, that 
it will be long before it comes into general cultivation. 

Use. — The blackberry is an excellent dessert fruit, con- 
tinues a long time in bearing, and is also used for tarts, 
pies, puddings, jams, and preserves. From the juice a 
palatable wine is produced. The ripe fruit eaten fresh, or 
preserved, is found useful in summer diseases. 

The blackberry will grow in any soil, but is produced 
in the greatest perfection in that which is deep, rich, and 
moderately moist, especially if newly cleared from the 
forest. It abounds in all rocky lands, by the side of old 
fences, and other spots rich with vegetable mould. Ashes, 
swamp-muck, or leaf-mould, composted with animal matter, 
are the best manures. It is best propagated by offsets se- 
lected from those plants producing the best flavored fruit. 
It is cultivated like the raspberry, cutting aAvay the old 
wood, &c., in the same manner. 

The High Bush, in its varieties, is perhaps worth culti- 



THE GRAPE-VINE. 88^ 

vatiiig. Fruit large, long, ovate, bright black; tender, 
juicy, and sweet, Avitli an agreeable bitter, or rather aro- 
matic flavor ; growth upright, becoming recumbent at the 
top. There is said to be a white variety. One, more 
common, is of light red color, with fruit sweet and good. 
We have also a variety in this State with blossoms per- 
fectly double, but the fruit is abortive. The T^Tew Rochelle 
is probably the best variety now known. The fruit is the 
shape of Hovey's strawberry, very pulpy, and of excellent 
flavor, and continues for some weeks in use. 

Vltls cf Species— The Grape-Vl\e. 

The vine was one of the first plants brought into culti- 
vation. The foreign grapes are all varieties of Vitis Vinifei-a, 
and came originall}^ from Asia. Of native grapes, we 
have Vitus Labrusca, of which the Isabella, Catawba, and 
Diana are varieties ; Vltis Cordifolia and Vitis ^^stivalu, 
fromx one of which the Elsinburgh and Ohio originated ; 
Vitis Rofundifolii* which is the parent of the Scnppernong, 
our most valuable grape, and some other species from 
which no valuable varieties have yet been produced. 

Of the other fruits, as the apple, pear, &c., we are cul- 
tivating kinds removed many generations from their na- 
tural state, and improved in quality by a long course of 
culture ; but our American grapes are chance seedlings of 
the wild varieties taken within a few years from their 
native woods. Seedlings from these generally revert to 
the original wild species ; but the Catawba is the parent 
of the Diana grape, one degree further removed from its 
original type ; from this we may expect seedlings will be 
derived, still more improved, until they rival in sweetness 
and freedom from pulp, the fine European varieties. 

Foreign grapes do not generally succeed in our climate. 
The exceptions are the Black Burgundy, the Sherr^'-, and 
^- Michaux and Le Conte. 



390 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

the Devereaux; but the latter is claimed as a native. 
Another variety, the Delaware county, which is claimed 
to be identical with the Traminier, a European grape, is 
found to do well at Cincinnati ; the identity of the two 
is however disputed. All the foreign grapes succeed well 
both north and south in cold graperies, i. e. under glass 
without fire-heat. 

Vines, both native and foreign, attain great age ; some 
of the latter are known to have lived three hundred years, 
and how long they were planted before the record began 
is not known. Vines, three feet in circumference, are not 
uncommon in Europe and America. 

The grape is a cooling and refreshing fruit of the high- 
est excellence ; green, it is used for pies and tarts : when 
ripe, it is nutritious and medicinal. It is used in cases of 
dysentery, being diuretic and laxative, allaying thirst and 
reducing heat ; it is also employed in pulmonary disorders. 
Tt is a most agreeable dessert fruit, and is likewise used 
for preserving, jellies, &c. The dried fruit or raisins are 
employed extensively for the dessert, and in many prepa- 
tions of cookery. The leaves are an elegant garnish to 
other table fruits; but the chief product of the grape is 
wine, which is superior to that made of any other fruit. 
That derived from the pure juice of the grape ** is in all 
cases of langour and prostration of strength, and in the 
convalescence from protracted fever, the most grateful and 
efficacious cordial known." In a state of health, however, 
the highest medical authorities tell us that " it, at least, is 
useless, if not absolutely pernicious." 

The wine of the grape is superior to that of any other 
fruit, because its acid, (the tartaric,) is insoluable in alco- 
hol, hence as the must ferments and alcohol is formed, the 
acid suspended in the juice subsides, and combined with 
potash also in the juice, settles in the lees. Thus the 



ANALYSIS OF THE GRAPE-VINE. 891 

stronger the wine becomes by age and fermentation, the 
less acid it contains. Citric and malic acids, which exist 
in other fruits, are not thrown down in the lees by the 
formation of alcohol, and the wine from these is, therefore, 
inferior, and liable to acidity. 

Large quantities of an excellent and wholesome wine 
are made near Cincinnati from the juice of the Catawba 
grape. The natural juice produces a specie of hock ; but 
wines, resembling Champagne and Maderia, and believed 
to be quite as good, are also produced. Wine in cooler 
latitudes always has more aroma or boquet than in warm 
climates, but the wine of the latter has more strength. A 
good wine is said to be produced from the Scuppernong 
grape. Excellent wine has been made from the Catawba, 
by Mr. Axt,at Washington, in this State. 

Position and soil. — A hill side, on account of its superior 
drainage, is preferred for a vineyard. The soil should be 
a dry calcareous loam with a porous subsoil. If the soil 
does not abound in lime, it should manured with lime and 
ashes. 



ANALYSIS 


OF THE 


WILD GRAPE. 








WOOD. 


BARK. 


IKAVKS 


Potash, 


. 


20.84 


1.77 


13.394 


Soda, 




2.06 


0.27 


9.698 


Chlorine 


. 


0.02 


0.40 


0.741 


Sulphuric Acid, 


, 


0.23 


trace 


2.062 


Phosphate of Lime, 

it u Peroxide Iron, 


) 15.40 
1.20 


5.04 
5.04 


32.950 


Carbonic Acid, . 




34.83 


32.22 


3.050 


Lime, 




17.33 


39.32 


4.391 


Magnesia, 




4.40 


0.80 


1.740 


Silex, 
Soluble Silicia, 




280 


14.00 
0.30 


29.650 


Coal and Organic matter, 


2.20 


170 




Organic Acids, 


• 






2.250 



101.31 100.86 99.926 



892 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

Lime, potash and phosphates, are the mineral consti- 
tuents mostly required. Potash, freely applied, is thought 
to improve the quality of the wine produced. 

For vineyard culture of the Catawba grape, the ground 
should be subsoiled with a plow, or deeply trenched. A 
declivity should be thrown into terraces, with a slight 
inclination to the hiU, that the water may be collected 
there, to be carried thence to the main drains. The Ca- 
tawba grape* is planted by the wine-growers on level 
ground, in rows seven feet apart, and four feet in the row, 
but on hill sides three by five feet apart. The vineyard 
is laid off with a line and a stake put down where each vine 
is to grow ; then a broad hole a foot deep is dug, in which 
are placed two cuttings, six or eight inches apart, at the 
bottom, in a slanting position, but with the top eyes only 
about an inch apart, and even with the surface — throAv in 
a shovelful of well-decayed leaf mould, that the cuttings 
may strike freely. Cover v/ith an inch of charcoal dust or 
light mould, when the cuttings are planted. The cuttings 
should be short jointed and well ripened, each cutting con- 
taining about four joints. Cut them off close to the lower 
joint, and about an inch above the upper. The earth 
should be pressed closely around the cuttings. The best 
time for putting them out is the last of November or De- 
cember. The finest vines are raised from cuttings where 
they are to stand. Being undisturbed by removal, they 
are more thrifty and longlived. Remove all the cuttings 
but one, if more than one succeeds, and use them to re- 
plant where others have failed. During the summer keep 
the ground clean and light by repeated hoeings, and pull 
off superfluous shoots, leaving but one or two to grow at 
first, and one eventually. Next spring cut the vine down 
to two buds — one of which remove when the vine shoots, 

* See Buchan on Grape Cjllure. 



THE GRAPE-VINE. 



S93 



and drive a stake seven feet long to each plant. Chestnut 
charred at the end is very good ; but locust and cedar 
make the most permanent posts. Tie the young vine to 
the stake, remove all the suckers, and allow but one cane to 
grow. Keep free from weeds, and cultivate as.before. 
The next spring cut down the three buds, and the year 
after to five, and this year train two canes instead of 
one. The pruning should take place from November to 
the last of February. The third or fourth year, according 
to the strength of the vine, cut down the weakest cane to 
a spur of two or three eyes, and select the best shoot of 
the preceding year, cut it down to six or eight joints, bend 
it over in the form of a hoop, and tie to the stake, or 
fasten it to the adjoining stake in a horizontal position. 




PRUNING THE VINE. 

Fig. 1. Vine at the end of the second year, from a cutting, or the first after a 
Rooted vine is planted out. 

Fig. ?. Vine at the end of the succeeding summer. 

Fig. 3. Vine at the end of fourth from a cutting pruned in the bow form. 

Fig. 4. Vine pruned after the renewal system. 

a Point where the shoots are to be cut off in pruning, 

b Places of removed shoots. 

c Bearing shoots. 

The bow form is the best. Training the vine in this man- 
ner checks the flow of the sap, and causes the buds to 
break more evenly, retarding growth, and increasing pro- 

J i* 



894 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTIT. 

fluctiveness. To do it, bend the shoot in a circular form, 
and fosten the top within three or four inches of the stake, 
having previously made a tie at the bottom and another 
at the centre of the bow. From this bow the fruit is to be 
producetl the current year, and the bearing wood of next 
year from the spur left for this purpose. The n.ext winter 
this bow is to be cut away, and the bow for another crop 
is formed from the best branch of the new wood of last 
year. Keep tlie old stalk within eighteen inches of the 
ground. Tie the vines carefully, without breaking them, 
in damp weather, Avhen the buds are swelling, the last of 
February or early in March. In the summer, remove 
suckers, and pinch off lateral shoots, leaving but two for 
the next year. Pinch off the ends of the bearing branches 
when they blossom, some three joints beyond the 
last blossom bunch. Remove no leaves from the bearing 
wood, but unnecessary lateral shoots may be pinched 
off when small. The object is to throw the strength of 
the vine into the fruit and the next year's bearing branches. 

The vineyard should be heavily manured once in two 
or three years. Wood-ashes and gypsum are good appli- 
cations, and arc thought to prevent the rot. The trim- 
mings of the vines dug in, arc found beneficial ; but leaf- 
mould well rotted, by the addition of lime and ashes, is 
the best application. Vines highly manured, and allowed 
to grow rampant, covering a large space, will produce a 
weak and worthless wine, and continue in bearing but two 
or three seasons. 

Where grapes are liable to rot, it is best, for the more 
desirable kinds of table fruit, to train them to a trellis 
eight or ten feet high, and protect them by a coping of 
boards, j)rojecting over one foot on each side of the trellis. 
This coping protects the plants from the heavy dews and 
excess of moisture, and seems nearlv as efficacious as a 



THE GRAP-EVINE. 895 

cold grapery. Set the vines six or eight feet apart, or 
raise them from cuttings at that distance, as before directed. 
Cut back the second year's growth of the cutting (the first 
if a vine is planted) to two buds the next winter. Allow 
these the ensuing season, to form two upright shoots (as 
in the bow method before described), which should be fas- 
tened to stakes. The next winter form the trellis by setting 
a post two feet deep, and firmly in the earth, between every 
two vines. To these attach the coping, and let the post at 
each end of the boards be of unequal length, varying an inch 
or so, that the water may run off. The bars may be made of 
laths, or No. 10 or 12 wire, fastened by staples. The first 
bar should be one foot from the earth, and the others should 
be that distance apart. Now bring down the two upright 
shoots, and fasten them each side to the lower bar of the 
trellis. Shorten them at two and a half to four feet from 
the main stem according to the distance between the vines. 
The next season, ajlow upright shoots to grow a foot 
apart, and stop them when they reach the top of the trel- 
lis. The trellis is now full of vines. 

After the trellis is filled with upright shoots as above, 
in the renewal system of training, at the next pruning 
every other upright shoot is cut down within an inch of 
the main arm of the vine. The upright shoots that are 
left Avill bear, the coming summer, and from the stump of 
each upright cane removed, a young shoot is trained to take 
its place the succeeding year. At the next winter prun- 
ing, this is left to bear fruit, and the shoots which bore the 
preceding season are cut down in their turn to an inch of 
the main ami, from which young shoots are trained to pro- 
duce fruit a year after. In this mode of pruning both na- 
tive and foreign vines, the largest bunches and the best 
crops for a course of yeais are obtained. 

The plan of protecting Grapes by n coping to prevent 



890 PxARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

rot, has been tested several years by Mr. Van Buren, and 
was very naturally suggested by the fact that grapes 
trained to a piazza or a house, when sheltered by the pro- 
jecting roof, are generally free from decay. Vines planted 
for experiment, with one half under a coping, and the 
other half exposed, have ripened perfectly where protected, 
and rotted badly where exposed. Vines are thought not 
so liable to rot when allowed to run high. 

The Scuppernong Grape never rots, being protected by 
its thick skin ; hence for our climate it is the most valuable 
of all grapes. It likes a good dry soil and plenty of room. 
The vines should be, at least, thirty feet apart. It bears 
better when trained over an arbor. It seems to need lit- 
tle pruning — the only care required, is to add to the scaf- 
folding, year after year, as the vine extends. The vines 
should be trained evenly over the arbor, and not allowed 
to run together in a mass. Vines covering one or two 
thousand feet of scaffolding, and increasing in productive- 
ness and extent, every year, are not uncommon, and the 
quantity of grapes such a vine has produced, has been 
nearly thirty bushels. This vine will not readily grow 
from cuttings, but is propagated solely by layers*, which, 
put down in the winter or spring, may be taken up 
safely the ensuing winter. Stake them the first year and 
begin to make the arbor the second. Fruit will be borne 
the third year after planting. 

Ashes, lime, rubbish, and its own leaves, are the best 
manure. The fruit of the Scuppernong is in fact almost too 
luscious, and hence is not as wholesome as the other culti- 
vated varieties. All the culture this Grape requires is to 
keep soil free from weeds, until the vine begins to cover the 
arbor, when its shade and droppings will kill everything 
beneath it. 

Wine. — The best wine produced in this country is that 



THE GRAPE-VINE. 397 

m;nlu at Cincinnati from the Catawba grape. The grapes 
arc iipt picked until dead ripe ; all green or decayed ber- 
ries are removed from the branches ; they are then bruised 
in a mashing tub or passed through a small wooden mill, 
mashing the skins and pulp, but not the seeds. It is bet- 
ter to stem the grapes before pressing, which is done by 
running the mashed grapes through a wire screen with the 
meshes three-fourths of an inch apart. When shaken, the 
pulp and skins fall through, and the stems are thrown out. 
The pressing is now performed. A strong, tight box plat- 
form, six feet square, and six inches high at the sides, is 
made of two or three inch plank, and tightly wedged together 
in a heavy timber frame : a hole is made in the front to 
permit the juice to flow out into a tub. On this platform a 
box, five feet scraare made of one and a cjuarter inch boards, 
ten inches high at the sides, and with holes at the lower 
edge, is placed to receive the mashed grapes ; boards fitting 
loosely inside this box, are placed on the pile of mashed 
grapes, and pieces of scantling are hiid across these to receive 
the pressure. This is applied by means of a lever and screw, 
until the juice is extracted. The outside of the cheese has 
to be cut off and thrown on top two or three times and re- 
pressed, to extract all the juice. The must should then be 
placed in clean casks, for fermentation. Everything used in 
wine-making must be scrupulously clean, whether press, ves- 
sels, or casks, or the aroma and flavor of the wine will be lost. 
At Cincinnati, with the Catawba grape, no sugar is 
added ; but casks are filled with the juice within six inches 
of the bung, which is put in loosely, to allow the gas to 
escape without the wine running over ; a cool dry cellar, 
is the best place for fermentation. In two or three weeks 
fermentation ceases, and the wine becomes clear, when the 
casks are filled and the bungs tightened. The wine is 
racked off the ensuing February, into clean casks, which 



398 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 

are bimged tightly, and there left to improve by age. If 
racked more frequently, its acidity is increased ; it will do 
to bottle when a year old; but if allowed to stand two 
years it will be better. A good wine is produced from 
Herbemout's Madeira, by the same process. 

In this climate, as the grape ripens before the weather 
becomes cool, wine cannot be kept without the addition of 
sugar to the must, or brandy to the wine. Mr. Weller of 
North Carolina, adds three pounds of double refined sugar 
to each gallon of Scuppernong must. The cask must be 
well shaken. Mr. Herbemont used to add from two to two 
and a half pounds of sugar to the gallon of Herbemont 
Madeira juice. The same object is better obtained by the 
addition of good brandy to the wine as soon as properly 
fermented. Mr. Weller added to the must one-third pure 
brandy, shaking the cask well several times, the first week. 
Half of each of the above amounts of sugar and brandy 
may be added, instead of using either alone ; but it seems 
almost incredible that so large an amount of sugar or 
spirit is required ; yet the amount varies with the heat of 
the climate and the ripeness of the grapes. 

In a cool climate, two gallons of brandy to the barrel is 
sufiicient, if the wine is kept in cellars, and racked off at 
at the bottom, when the crust at the top begins to break, 
into casks fumigated with sulphur. In a hot countiy, the 
amount of brandy must, as we see, be largely increased. 
The wine must be closely watched, and if disposed to fur- 
ther fermentation, more brandy must be added. 

If wine is turbid, it can be fined with the white of eggs ; 
one egg for every six gallons. The whites are well beaten, 
then put into a tub, into which the wine is drawn, and 
while running, the whole is well churned and beaten 
briskly until the cask is drawn off ; it is then returned to 
the cask which should not be quite full. The froth pro- 



THE GRAPE-VINE. 899 

diiced should all go back into the cask, and the top of the 
wine should be stirred ; the cask is then bunged up and 
left until the wine is clear ; the froth produced aids in the 
process of fining. 

A fine, sparkling, or Champagne wine, is produced by 
the addition of Eock Candy to each flask, when the wine 
is bottled. The amount required is not divulged. 

FOREIGx^ VARIETIES. 

Delmcare County. — A small grape, color of Catawba ; 
bunches small ; skin thin, transparent ; juice brisk and 
vinous ; one of the best table grapes. Vine like the 
foreign grape — said to be the Traminier grape of Germany. 
Succeeds well in New Jersey and Ohio. Worthy of trial. 

Devereaux. — The best foreign grape for open air culture. 
Branches about six inches long, shouldered ; making them 
some three inches broad at the base ; berries generally 
with one seed, medium, round, very compact or crowded 
on the bunch ; skin thin, black and covered with blue 
bloom ; flesh juicy, with a brisk, agreeable flavor, much 
better than the native grapes. A great bearer and free 
from rot. E-ipens middle of August. 

Sherry. — Bunches medium size, shouldered, compact ; 
skin thin, black covered with blue bloom ; berries round, 
medium size, with one stone ; flesh very juicy, rich, high- 
flavored and exceedingly sweet — much better than Blue 
Frontignan. Eesembles Devereaux, and may be identi- 
cal ; but the bunches are not so large and the berries are 
more sugary and high-flavored ; this may be an accident 
of aspect or soil. Does not rot. The best grape cul- 
tivated here. 

The Black Cluster, Blue Frontignan, Early Chasselas, 
Black Hamburgh and Miller's Burgundy, if well cultivated 
and protected by a coping, succeed here. 



400 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. 



NATIVE GRAPES. 

Bland, or Bland's Madeira. — Bunches long and loose ; 
berries round, on long stalks, hanging thinlj ; skin thin., 
pale red when ripe ; flesh slightly pulpy, of sprightly 
delicate flavor, a little astringent;' foliage light green, 
smoother and more delicate than that of the Catawba ; 
ripens last of August ; cuttings do not readily strike ; it 
often drops its leaves before the fruit ripens, which de- 
stroys the flavor. 

Catawba. — Bunches of medium size, shouldered, some- 
what loose ; berries large, round ; skin rather thick, pale 
red in shade, but deep red in sun, with lilac bloom ; flesh 
slightly pulpy, juicy, very sweet, with an aromatic, 
rich, musky flavor ; ripens last of August. A hardier 
grape than the Isabella, and the best of all for wine. 

Diana. — A Catawba seedling ; resembles its parent in 
buuch and beny, but with less color; berries round, juicy, 
rich, sweet and musky. Ripens middle of August. 

J^rt.W/(2. — Bunches large, rather compact, shouldered; 
berries large, oval, purplish black, with blue bloom ; skin 
thick ; flesh tender, with little pulp, juicy, sweet, with 
slight musky aroma ; liable to rot and requires a coping. 
A better grape to my taste than Bland or Catawba. 
Eipens August 15fch. 

Leiioi?'. — Bunches large, compact, sometimes shouldered ; 
berries small, black, free from pulp, sweet, and palatable. 

NortG7i's Virginia. — Bunches long, sometimes shouldered; 
rather compact ; berries small, round; skin thin, dark pur- 
ple. In ot a very good grape for the dessert. Always bears, 
is free from rot, and is as hardy as a Scuppernong. 
Ripens middle of August. Said to make a tolerable wine. 

Ohio. — Bunches very large, shouldered; berries small, 



THE PLUM. 401 

• 
black, sweet, and free from pulp. Does well on an arbor. 
Requires long pruning. 

i^cuppernong ( Vit is Rotund i folia). — Bunches very small, 
with from two to four, and seldom over six berries, which 
are round and large ; skin very thick, light green, marked 
with yellow dots ; flesh pulpy, juicy, sweet, and of rich, 
luscious flavor. The best of all grapes for ordinary cul- 
ture in this climate. Must be trained on arbors. Does 
not grow from cuttings readily. 

Warren ( Warrenton, orllerbemont's Madeira). — A native 
of this State, and long known as the Warrenton, whence 
obtained by Herbemont, who gave it his OAvn name. 
Bunches of medium size, long, sometimes shouldered ; 
berries round, medium size, and rather closely set ; skin 
thin, dark purple, with light bloom. Grapes on the same 
bunch do not color evenly, varying from a light to a dark 
purple; flesh tender, melting, free from pulp ; flavor sweet 
and pleasant, when fully ripe. An enormous bearer. Prob- 
ably it would ripen more uniformly, if the bunches were 
properly thinned. A fine dessert and wine grM)e, though 
somewhat subject to rot. The wine can scarcely be dis- 
tinguished from Spanish Manzanilla. Clermont, Marion, 
Zane, and Imitation Hamburgh, are new Ohio grapes, of 
good reputation, not yet tested at the south. Harris and 
Long are two good southern grapes, fully equal to the 
foregoing. Brinckle, Cassady, Clara, Concord, Emily, 
Graham, E-aabe, and Thurmond are all new varieties, of 
excellent flavor, but of which the merits are hardly known 
yet. The latter is of lest quality. 

Zizcj'/ais Sativax.- — Jujube Plum. 
This fruit has been cultivated at Augusta, Ga., by Mr. 
Change and by Mr. Chisholm, of Beaufort, S. C. It is 
a small tree, or thornv shrub, from the south of France, 



402 GARDENING FOB THE SOUTH. 

bearing an oval, reddish plum, about tlie size of an olive, 
and enclosing an oblong stone pointed at both ends. It 
is of a sweet, clammy taste, from which the "Jujube 
paste " is made. It is served up at the table, in Italy and 
Spain, during winter, as a dry sweetmeat. The tree is grown 
in hedge-rows, about Genoa and Nice. Seeds have been 
sent out from the Patent-Office. They would probably 
require about the same culture as the pomegranate. 



3477 



